O2 sensor quality?

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On the Mini, I’ve got a CEL. Had the code read and it’s the upstream O2 sensor. Poked around under the hood and I believe I might be able to reach it once I buy that extended 7/8” socket. Searching around, I find sensors that cost from about $20 to almost 10 times that.

Anybody have experience with cheap sensors? Will a $200 one work better/longer than the bargain basement one?
 
I've bought the cheap ones before (the people didn't want to spend much), and have had very mixed results. Some worked good for awhile, some not long at all. What's funny, I've had crap results out of Bosch. NTK, Denso, NGK, AC Delco have all pretty much been good for me.
 
Mixed results. I had a car that didnt care what sensor went in it and a truck that would eat cheap ones every couple weeks. The mid range priced sensor stopped that mess.
 
Bosch, Denso, NTK (NGK) - pick whatever is cheapest of the three and you'll probably be fine. Those are the three that supply most OEMs, have good plastics, will be closest in calibration accuracy, and will have the best internal construction. I am not a Bosch fan in general (too many failed European electronics), and try to stick to Denso or NTK/NGK if I can get them.
 
I would say get NTK decent mid price range sensor, and order it online from rock auto or some other site thats not the big car part box stores
 
I had a mechanic put a cheap Autozone sensor in that lasted a year. Next one was $80 more. It hasn’t failed again in about 8 years. I have never had much luck with Autozone, O’Reilly, and whatever the other one is. I stopped buying from all of them except NAPA. I’m of the opinion original equipment is best when it comes to sensors.
 
On the Mini, I’ve got a CEL. Had the code read and it’s the upstream O2 sensor. Poked around under the hood and I believe I might be able to reach it once I buy that extended 7/8” socket. Searching around, I find sensors that cost from about $20 to almost 10 times that.

Anybody have experience with cheap sensors? Will a $200 one work better/longer than the bargain basement one?
Don’t just buy any socket, buy the one made for sensors. Probably wouldn’t hurt to hit it with PB Blaster and let it soak for awhile before trying to pull it.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. The NTK part seems to have mostly very positive reviews.
 
Don’t just buy any socket, buy the one made for sensors. Probably wouldn’t hurt to hit it with PB Blaster and let it soak for awhile before trying to pull it.
Yeah, that’s what I meant when I wrote “that” socket. 🤓

I like the PBB idea. Will do!
 
This Mini is a 2003 (produced in 12/02) with 43,000 miles. I ordered the NTK and two different kinda sockets from Amazon so I can return them in case I chicken out. I’m kinda tempted to try to attack the upstream sensor from below in order to reach it better (you wouldn’t believe where they located it 🤬). Anybody near me have portable ramps?

I’ve done a lot of Googling and video watching on this job. The most clever thing I learned is about putting a hose clamp around the socket before yanking on it. The hose clamp will keep the socket from spreading open on the slot for the cable (Yes, I know I could just cut off the cable and use a normal 7/8” deep socket).

It’s interesting…Mini owners seem to universally like the NTZ sensor and hate the Bosch. Doesn’t mean all Bosch is junk but maybe what they make doesn’t ever work well on Minis.
 
I just bought the Harbor Freight socket today, $8 and change after tax. I’m trying the Bosch first, hoping it’s the charm.
GMC is a 2006, but only 68000 miles today!
All the negative reviews on the HF socket deal with it spreading open under torque, damaging the sensor. Start this video at 5:30 for the hose clamp hack. I’m gonna try it on the Amazon sockets.

 
This Mini is a 2003 (produced in 12/02) with 43,000 miles. I ordered the NTK and two different kinda sockets from Amazon so I can return them in case I chicken out. I’m kinda tempted to try to attack the upstream sensor from below in order to reach it better (you wouldn’t believe where they located it 🤬). Anybody near me have portable ramps?

I’ve done a lot of Googling and video watching on this job. The most clever thing I learned is about putting a hose clamp around the socket before yanking on it. The hose clamp will keep the socket from spreading open on the slot for the cable (Yes, I know I could just cut off the cable and use a normal 7/8” deep socket).

It’s interesting…Mini owners seem to universally like the NTZ sensor and hate the Bosch. Doesn’t mean all Bosch is junk but maybe what they make doesn’t ever work well on Minis.
Find someone with a 10hp tractor with a loader with pallet forks to come pick it up, so you can just stand under it 🤣
 
Was going to recommend FCP Euro for parts on this due to their lifetime warranty, but looks like you've got it underway. Good luck!
 
Tried removing the factory sensor this morning, and it is frozen stuck. Considered using the clamp method with my extended ratchet, but I’m changing the front sensor in the engine block, which is recessed. Considering using a 2 ft. pipe for more leverage…..
 
Tried removing the factory sensor this morning, and it is frozen stuck. Considered using the clamp method with my extended ratchet, but I’m changing the front sensor in the engine block, which is recessed. Considering using a 2 ft. pipe for more leverage…..
I was afraid mine would have ”welded” itself on. So, when it came time to buy the socket, I went a little crazy. I ordered a cheap one and also the $20 one shown in the link below. When they arrived, it was easy to decide to use the expensive one. It is MUCH heavier, much thicker wall (less chance of the slot spreading under torque) and having the 1/2 drive attached where it does should provide much improved twisting power. So, back to Amazon goes the cheap one.

Hopefully I’ll be done with this ordeal tomorrow. Thereafter, anybody who wants to borrow this socket is welcome to.

Lisle 12390 Dual Drive Oxygen Sensor Wrench https://a.co/d/aiwDNgW

6060897D-4427-4F0E-B925-A3898EE48A75.jpeg
 
Yuze guys were right. Turns out the original (or dealer replacement???) actually was an NTK. Fired it up, CEL turned off. :cool:
 
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