Polymer80 parts in North Carolina?

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Hi everyone. I'm planning to purchase a Polymer80 PF940v2 80% full size frame and build it into a Glock 34 clone. I have been looking at all of the parts kits, barrels, slides, etc online. Then I thought, "I wonder if there are any gun stores in NC selling this stuff?" I would rather buy local and support small business whenever I can.

Do you all know of any NC based businesses that produce or sell aftermarket Glock parts, machine slides, etc?

Thank you!
 
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I bought most of my parts directly from Glock except the slide and sights that were purchased from Brownells. I am sure you can find stuff local, but you will just be paying a middleman to buy it and mark it up for you.
 
I bought most of my parts directly from Glock except the slide and sights that were purchased from Brownells. I am sure you can find stuff local, but you will just be paying a middleman to buy it and mark it up for you.

Good point about the extra mark up...
 
I was just getting ready to start a thread similar to this. Just picked up a Polymer 80 compact kit from Midway for $74.99 because it was white and I guess an over run. I've been looking at lone wolf and grey ghost for parts, slides, etc. Not sure how much I want to put into this.
 
I was just getting ready to start a thread similar to this. Just picked up a Polymer 80 compact kit from Midway for $74.99 because it was white and I guess an over run. I've been looking at lone wolf and grey ghost for parts, slides, etc. Not sure how much I want to put into this.

I have made several 80% ARs over the last 5 years, but I just found out about these Glock clone kits a few days ago.

I initially decided to build one based on the price of a full kit I found online for about $600.
https://www.1776supplyco.com/product/g19-complete-build-kit/

But the more I look at kits and parts, the probable price has shot way up.

Now I'm thinking I want to build a Glock 34 with threaded barrel, rmr, window cut slide, cerakote, suppressor height sights, etc... And I'm looking at a cost of $1100 not counting the rmr and magazines.

Thankfully, I haven't bought anything yet so I'm not committed.

I do want to build one but I don't want to spend a grand on it...
 
I have considered doing one of these kits but every time I really look into it I realize I can buy a used Glock cheaper.

Shot a steel challenge match with a guy that built one, took him a while to get it to run right, but that could very well be his skills limiting him.

I get the idea of building your own off the grid gun but if you think you are gonna save any kind of money you may be disappointed.
 
I have considered doing one of these kits but every time I really look into it I realize I can buy a used Glock cheaper.

Shot a steel challenge match with a guy that built one, took him a while to get it to run right, but that could very well be his skills limiting him.

I get the idea of building your own off the grid gun but if you think you are gonna save any kind of money you may be disappointed.
Depends on your wants. If you want an out of the box stock gun, then absolutely it would be cheaper to buy a used Glock. But if you want to add custom parts and have something you can say you built it would be cheaper than buying a Glock and doing upgrades. It's the same as handloading. I tell my wife it saves money, but I actually spend a whole lot more money, and also shoot a lot more.
 
Yes. I agree with all of you guys. It would be much cheaper to buy a new Glock 34.

But for me, it's the fun of sanding it down and making it fit together. And then to be able to show it off to family and friends who come visit. To say, "Look what I made!" And then to knowledgeably answer their questions when their eyes bug out and they say, "That can't be legal!".

I'm ok with the fact that it will probably need some fine tuning to make it run right. I've built 5 AR 15s and 1 AR10 from 80% lowers. Each of them needed some amount of troubleshooting and rework, but that's half the fun. Getting really frustrated, racking your brain, and then feeling pride when you fix the issue.

My problem is that I want the high end parts at Chinese knock off prices. Hahaha.

I'm just going to have to go online and order it all at once and stop thinking about it. Buy once, cry once, right?

Maybe I'll post a pic in a few weeks (or months) when it's all done.
 
Yes. I agree with all of you guys. It would be much cheaper to buy a new Glock 34.

But for me, it's the fun of sanding it down and making it fit together. And then to be able to show it off to family and friends who come visit. To say, "Look what I made!" And then to knowledgeably answer their questions when their eyes bug out and they say, "That can't be legal!".

I'm ok with the fact that it will probably need some fine tuning to make it run right. I've built 5 AR 15s and 1 AR10 from 80% lowers. Each of them needed some amount of troubleshooting and rework, but that's half the fun. Getting really frustrated, racking your brain, and then feeling pride when you fix the issue.

My problem is that I want the high end parts at Chinese knock off prices. Hahaha.

I'm just going to have to go online and order it all at once and stop thinking about it. Buy once, cry once, right?

Maybe I'll post a pic in a few weeks (or months) when it's all done.

Definitely post some pics when you finish it, range report too. Totally get doing it just for personal satisfaction, I may get around to doing one at some point. I would probably do a Sig 320 since I could use the FCU from my 320 X5 with the sweet trigger kit.
 
Well... No need to answer the question of whether or not any local stores sell these parts in NC... I just ordered everything online. Of course, no one store had everything in stock so I had to order the slide from one store; the mags upgraded trigger, ghost connector,and suppressor height sights from a second store; and everything else (polymer80 frame, barrel, upper parts kit, lower parts kit) from a third store. I'll be sure to upload pics as soon as I get everything in and put it all together. It was expensive, but not as expensive as ordering a tricked out gun and waiting a month for them to build it.

Here is the slide I picked out... It will be cerakoted in BLUE TITANIUM and have a RMR cutout with cover.
g34_angle_2.jpg

Tactical Grey Polymer80 Frame:
81A7WueWRVL._SX425_.jpg

Agency Arms tin Threaded barrel for G34:
aga-bbl-g34-mid-thr-tin-280x187.jpg
And a red Agency Arms flat trigger for a splash of color to offset the grey and blue/grey... I hope this comes out the way I am expecting in my head...
p_100027936_2.jpg
 
I'm hoping it comes out looking like this, but longer... With a threaded barrel... And more red on the trigger...

ae5000f8bb0964ff1d2bb0b2b7e436f0.jpg
 
Well... No need to answer the question of whether or not any local stores sell these parts in NC... I just ordered everything online. Of course, no one store had everything in stock so I had to order the slide from one store; the mags upgraded trigger, ghost connector,and suppressor height sights from a second store; and everything else (polymer80 frame, barrel, upper parts kit, lower parts kit) from a third store. I'll be sure to upload pics as soon as I get everything in and put it all together. It was expensive, but not as expensive as ordering a tricked out gun and waiting a month for them to build it.

Here is the slide I picked out... It will be cerakoted in BLUE TITANIUM and have a RMR cutout with cover.
View attachment 74544

Tactical Grey Polymer80 Frame:
View attachment 74545

Agency Arms tin Threaded barrel for G34:
View attachment 74546
And a red Agency Arms flat trigger for a splash of color to offset the grey and blue/grey... I hope this comes out the way I am expecting in my head...
View attachment 74547
There is a guy on Gunstreamer that did a few builds almost just like yours and has been very happy with the results. Check out Tactical Toolbox on Gunstreamer & youtube. :)
 
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Yes. I agree with all of you guys. It would be much cheaper to buy a new Glock 34.

But for me, it's the fun of sanding it down and making it fit together. And then to be able to show it off to family and friends who come visit. To say, "Look what I made!" And then to knowledgeably answer their questions when their eyes bug out and they say, "That can't be legal!".

I'm ok with the fact that it will probably need some fine tuning to make it run right. I've built 5 AR 15s and 1 AR10 from 80% lowers. Each of them needed some amount of troubleshooting and rework, but that's half the fun. Getting really frustrated, racking your brain, and then feeling pride when you fix the issue.

My problem is that I want the high end parts at Chinese knock off prices. Hahaha.

I'm just going to have to go online and order it all at once and stop thinking about it. Buy once, cry once, right?

Maybe I'll post a pic in a few weeks (or months) when it's all done.
They are addictive. I only wanted to do one and have done 3 with plans to upgrade my V1 to a V2. After that I'm moving on to the P320 when I can afford it. Waiting to see your pics. You will love it. Just take your time.
 
There is a guy on Gunstreamer that did a few builds almost just like yours and has been very happy with the results. Check out Tactical Toolbox on Gunstreamer & youtube. :)
Is it this guy? I watched his video and used the attached website to find the zaffiri slide and I used the discount codes to save about $100 on the build. The gun in this videos has a sniper grey slide.

http://tactical-toolbox.com/affordable-custom-glock-34-build-polymer-80-serialized-frame/
 
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Is it this guy? I watched his video and used the attached website to find the zaffiri slide and I used the discount codes to save about $100 on the build. The gun in this videos has a sniper grey slide.

http://tactical-toolbox.com/affordable-custom-glock-34-build-polymer-80-serialized-frame/
Yes I have been watching his channel for awhile. He has done alot of p80's. Another place I learned alot about fixing glock issues is from Johnny Glocks Youtube page. This guy has a ton of great info on tuning them that you wont fond anywhere else. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpgYCc1_8FaM86jpCkMs5Fw
 
I thought about getting one and doing myself just because.

But for the price of an 80 kit I can have me something else and save a couple hundred.
I went a little nuts and spent a grand on mine, but it will be a G34 with race gun upgrades and slide machining and cerakote and RMR and upgraded trigger, etc...

You can build a G17 or G19 for under $600 with kits like these...

https://www.1776supplyco.com/product/g19-complete-build-kit/

But, if you want it to come out super basic, youd be better off just getting a stock Glock from the nearest gun store.
 
I went a little nuts and spent a grand on mine, but it will be a G34 with race gun upgrades and slide machining and cerakote and RMR and upgraded trigger, etc...

You can build a G17 or G19 for under $600 with kits like these...

https://www.1776supplyco.com/product/g19-complete-build-kit/

But, if you want it to come out super basic, youd be better off just getting a stock Glock from the nearest gun store.

https://www.5dtactical.com/g17-glock-80-build-kit-p/5d-g17build.htm

With my discount ittle still be 540 with free shipping.

Or right at 590-600 is I buy a few pieces at a time with discount.

I love doing 80% AR lowers, and actually had a PF940 from when they where on sale for under 80$ but never came to terms with putting it together.

Plus I despise Glocks lol
 
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I'll post pics in a few weeks. Thanks to everyone who commented!
 
Slide came in today. The cerakote is beautiful. Blue titanium is my new favorite cerakote color. Hopefully I can find some time this week to finish the lower and put it all together... Here is a sneak peak!

IMG_20180923_151055.jpg
 
Thank you! I'll post more pics and range report after I get it put together.

You're right near me. Let me know if you need a place to wring it out.
Can take you to a nice range if you don't have one handy. Been thinking of putting one together so it would be in my best interest, lol.
 
I'm back! So, this morning I finally did it. I took my Polymer80 frame into my workshop and started the build. I used my 10 inch drill press and the bits that were supplied with the jig.

I've done 6 AR lowers in the past. This was my first time doing anything other than metal so I was really surprised to see how quickly and easily the bits chewed through polymer. Also it was really nice to NOT have to use any oil like you do when drilling aluminum.

The whole process was really easy and fast. I was only in front of the drill press for about 15 minutes from start to finish. Then I spent about 10 minutes smoothing up the frame with a metal file and sand paper.

I watched a YouTube video on how to assemble a Glock 17 slide and followed along, assembling my slide while watching. That took 3 minutes.

I watched a YouTube video on how to assemble a Glock 17 frame and followed along, assembling my frame while watching. That took about 15 minutes.

Next came the moment of truth... Time to put the slide and frame together and perform a safety / function check.

I held the slide in position and started to mate the upper with the lower. I got the slide half way on and felt resistance. I know not to force things when assembling guns, so I took my time and looked to see where the unwanted contact was occurring. It was the teeth on the bottom of the barrel contacting the locking block in the frame. Everything looked good. I couldn't figure out why the slide wouldn't go on.

So, I tried again. And then again. Over and over again, I would get the slide half way on, meet resistance, then try again. After 5 minutes of getting no where, the caveman part of my brain took over. I was not thinking clearly. The next thing I knew, I was holding a rubber mallet in one hand and a fully assembled Glock in the other... The slide was fully on the frame, but it was locked in place. It would not slide back, nor would it slide forward to come back off the frame. It was STUCK... This is where I started saying the F word, a LOT.

So, I kept fiddling with it and I got the slide pulled to the rear, but not far enough back to engage the slide lock. That's when I realized that the barrel was not engaging the locking block properly and the recoil spring was a little pinched. Now I knew what to focus on, but the slide still wouldn't come off.

So I watched a YouTube video about how to unstick a slide that won't come off. After opening the rear slide cover and removing the firing pin, the slide came right off.

After successfully removing the slide, my caveman brain kicked in again... Without thinking, I put the slide right back on! Guess what happened... Yep, it stuck on there again. I had to remove the firing pin again to get the slide back off.

So, I got the slide off again and took a closer look at the barrel and the slide. I finally realized that the barrel was not riding all the way up in the slide where it should have been. The aftermarket slide and barrel were really well made and they would have fit perfectly if not for the thin layer of cerakote on the slide. It was keeping the barrel block from seating properly in the slide, which made the teeth on the bottom of the barrel hit on the locking block in the frame. And, since the barrel wasn't seating properly, it would not allow the slide to go into battery, which was keeping the trigger from resetting for a follow up trigger pull.

So, next, I started pressing the barrel into the slide, back and forth, slowly replicating the movement of a barrel locking and unlocking as a slide would cycle. Then I squirted some oil on the "bolt face" and started moving the barrel in and out. This process immediately started to remove the excess cerakote that was stopping the barrel from locking into the slide.

The next time I attempted to put the slide onto the frame, it went right on. Finally, after an hour of cursing, I had a complete handgun.

I immediately realized that every time I racked the slide I heard a loud squeak. It sounded like a rusty screen door opening and closing each time I manipulated the slide.

That's when I got a towel and just soaked the slide in CLP gun oil. I wiped off the outside of the gun and I started racking the slide over and over and over again. I moved the slide back and forth constantly for about 15 minutes while watching TV.

When the next commercial came on, I looked down at my new gun and realized that the squeak was gone. The slide was moving freely and all was right with the world.

I spent a total of about 3 hours going from a box of parts to a (hopefully) working gun. I love the way it looks, and I'm really excited to shoot it. The best part of this was learning how every tiny part inside a Gen 3 Glock works.

I'll write back again after I put some rounds through it...

Here's another pic...

IMG_20180928_123105.jpg
 
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I've got good news and I've got bad news...

The bad news is, I've still got a sticky slide that doesn't rack smoothly. I have sat at my desk and racked this thing several hundred times, just trying to smooth out the friction between the barrel and the slide where they lock up together. This morning I was sitting here, racking it, bored, and I thought, "I'm just gonna go shoot it and see what happens." I honestly did not think that it would cycle on its own. I expected the round to fire, but that there would not be enough explosive force to push the slide back.

So, the good news is that I was wrong! It fired one round and the slide locked back on the empty magazine. I was really surprised, so I loaded 10 rounds into the magazine. I then pulled the trigger (ten times) and consecutively fired all ten rounds without any problems! So, I loaded the mag with 14 more 9mm rounds. To my surprise, all 14 of those rounds successfully fed and flew down range... I had only taken 25 rounds outside with me because I didn't expect to shoot more than 4 or 5 without getting frustrated. But, surprisingly, it fed every round without a single hiccup. I'm so excited right now!

And now, after 25 actual rounds, the slide is already feeling smoother! I am now certain that, after firing another 200-300 rounds, this gun is going to feel just as nice and silky smooth as a brand new Glock.

Below are a few pics showing the wear on the slide and barrel where the cerakote was just a little too thick to allow a normal lock up. Now that the cerakote has worn away, in this spot, the barrel is locking up with the slide properly. Also, don't worry. That's not a permanent mark on the barrel. That's oil and cerakote dust that have been ground off of that spot on the slide. It will wipe right off with a rag.

IMG_20181002_123435.jpg IMG_20181002_123349.jpg IMG_20181002_123141.jpg
 
Love the color combination.
Thank you!

I read online that P80 is getting ready to release a new lower... It'll be a G19 sized compact frame but it will accept G17 slides.

I think I'll make one of those next...
 
Hi everyone. I'm planning to purchase a Polymer80 PF940v2 80% full size frame and build it into a Glock 34 clone. I have been looking at all of the parts kits, barrels, slides, etc online. Then I thought, "I wonder if there are any gun stores in NC selling this stuff?" I would rather buy local and support small business whenever I can.

Do you all know of any NC based businesses that produce or sell aftermarket Glock parts, machine slides, etc?

Thank you!

I purchased most of my stuff online BUT I did find one outfit in NC that sells Polymer80 kits and parts.

80Pbuilder address located in Charlotte NC.

There was also one vendor at the gun show that also had Polymer80 and build parts but I forgot their name as they were a little too far of a drive to acquire parts. Shipping would be less money than the gasoline to pick the part up.
 
I put another 100 rounds through her yesterday. The slide is finally feeling smooth when cycling by hand. I'm really happy with accuracy, fitment, parts I chose, etc. This has been a great experience and I would definitely recommend it to anyone looking to legally build their own faux Glock.
 
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Thank you!

I read online that P80 is getting ready to release a new lower... It'll be a G19 sized compact frame but it will accept G17 slides.

I think I'll make one of those next...
That was my Christmas present to myself since I was gifted a complete G17 upper. I've got more G19 mags then G17s. I won't get a chance to assemble it till November when I'm home on leave but looking forward to it. Thanks for the experience on the build. Got another Glock Armorers class to teach today downrange.

CD
 
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I (@BatteryOaksBilly and I) have done two of these, a G17 and a G19. Both were complete upper and lower kits from P80builder. The first one, the G19, was very stiff from the beginning and didn't want to run at all. I have spent a lot of time sanding, hand cycling, and shooting it and it is finally coming around. The more I shoot it, the better it gets. It is almost there and I'm confident that it will break in and run 100%

The next one was the G17 version. From the first time I put the slide on the frame I could tell a huge difference. It was very smooth and hand cycled easily. It hasn't had the first issue since the first round fired. It runs just like a Glock.

The G19

p801.jpg

The G17

pg171.jpg

Edit to add that the G19 is running like it should now. It seemed that the channel for the recoil spring needed to be opened up just a bit. Apparently, there was just enough drag to cause problems. Once opened up, it even felt better to hand cycle it. Now it runs just like it's supposed to.
 
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I (@BatteryOaksBilly and I) have done two of these, a G17 and a G19. Both were complete upper and lower kits from P80builder. The first one, the G19, was very stiff from the beginning and didn't want to run at all. I have spent a lot of time sanding, hand cycling, and shooting it and it is finally coming around. The more I shoot it, the better it gets. It is almost there and I'm confident that it will break in and run 100%

The next one was the G17 version. From the first time I put the slide on the frame I could tell a huge difference. It was very smooth and hand cycled easily. It hasn't had the first issue since the first round fired. It runs just like a Glock.

The G19

View attachment 126007

The G17

View attachment 126008

Edit to add that the G19 is running like it should now. It seemed that the channel for the recoil spring needed to be opened up just a bit. Apparently, there was just enough drag to cause problems. Once opened up, it even felt better to hand cycle it. Now it runs just like it's supposed to.


That bottom one [and now the top one] Look like old school fighting handguns. Clean, no bumps and rails. To each his own, for me Less is Always more.
 
IMG_2729.JPG IMG_2730.JPG IMG_2731.JPG Built this one yesterday. Starting to have a stack of boxes from old builds. I originally bought the 10" drill press but couldn't use the X-Y vise on it. So I bout a longer tube and gear to make it tall enough to get the x-y on it with the P80 jigs. I have a system down now and can make and tune one to run smooth with custom rail matching and internal polish job in an afternoon.
 
I (@BatteryOaksBilly and I) have done two of these, a G17 and a G19. Both were complete upper and lower kits from P80builder. The first one, the G19, was very stiff from the beginning and didn't want to run at all. I have spent a lot of time sanding, hand cycling, and shooting it and it is finally coming around. The more I shoot it, the better it gets. It is almost there and I'm confident that it will break in and run 100%

The next one was the G17 version. From the first time I put the slide on the frame I could tell a huge difference. It was very smooth and hand cycled easily. It hasn't had the first issue since the first round fired. It runs just like a Glock.

The G19

View attachment 126007

The G17

View attachment 126008

Edit to add that the G19 is running like it should now. It seemed that the channel for the recoil spring needed to be opened up just a bit. Apparently, there was just enough drag to cause problems. Once opened up, it even felt better to hand cycle it. Now it runs just like it's supposed to.
You may need a little rail matching to get it to run smoothly. If you are close to Greensboro maybe you can come by and we can sort it out for you.
 
I'm back! So, this morning I finally did it. I took my Polymer80 frame into my workshop and started the build. I used my 10 inch drill press and the bits that were supplied with the jig.

I've done 6 AR lowers in the past. This was my first time doing anything other than metal so I was really surprised to see how quickly and easily the bits chewed through polymer. Also it was really nice to NOT have to use any oil like you do when drilling aluminum.

The whole process was really easy and fast. I was only in front of the drill press for about 15 minutes from start to finish. Then I spent about 10 minutes smoothing up the frame with a metal file and sand paper.

I watched a YouTube video on how to assemble a Glock 17 slide and followed along, assembling my slide while watching. That took 3 minutes.

I watched a YouTube video on how to assemble a Glock 17 frame and followed along, assembling my frame while watching. That took about 15 minutes.

Next came the moment of truth... Time to put the slide and frame together and perform a safety / function check.

I held the slide in position and started to mate the upper with the lower. I got the slide half way on and felt resistance. I know not to force things when assembling guns, so I took my time and looked to see where the unwanted contact was occurring. It was the teeth on the bottom of the barrel contacting the locking block in the frame. Everything looked good. I couldn't figure out why the slide wouldn't go on.

So, I tried again. And then again. Over and over again, I would get the slide half way on, meet resistance, then try again. After 5 minutes of getting no where, the caveman part of my brain took over. I was not thinking clearly. The next thing I knew, I was holding a rubber mallet in one hand and a fully assembled Glock in the other... The slide was fully on the frame, but it was locked in place. It would not slide back, nor would it slide forward to come back off the frame. It was STUCK... This is where I started saying the F word, a LOT.

So, I kept fiddling with it and I got the slide pulled to the rear, but not far enough back to engage the slide lock. That's when I realized that the barrel was not engaging the locking block properly and the recoil spring was a little pinched. Now I knew what to focus on, but the slide still wouldn't come off.

So I watched a YouTube video about how to unstick a slide that won't come off. After opening the rear slide cover and removing the firing pin, the slide came right off.

After successfully removing the slide, my caveman brain kicked in again... Without thinking, I put the slide right back on! Guess what happened... Yep, it stuck on there again. I had to remove the firing pin again to get the slide back off.

So, I got the slide off again and took a closer look at the barrel and the slide. I finally realized that the barrel was not riding all the way up in the slide where it should have been. The aftermarket slide and barrel were really well made and they would have fit perfectly if not for the thin layer of cerakote on the slide. It was keeping the barrel block from seating properly in the slide, which made the teeth on the bottom of the barrel hit on the locking block in the frame. And, since the barrel wasn't seating properly, it would not allow the slide to go into battery, which was keeping the trigger from resetting for a follow up trigger pull.

So, next, I started pressing the barrel into the slide, back and forth, slowly replicating the movement of a barrel locking and unlocking as a slide would cycle. Then I squirted some oil on the "bolt face" and started moving the barrel in and out. This process immediately started to remove the excess cerakote that was stopping the barrel from locking into the slide.

The next time I attempted to put the slide onto the frame, it went right on. Finally, after an hour of cursing, I had a complete handgun.

I immediately realized that every time I racked the slide I heard a loud squeak. It sounded like a rusty screen door opening and closing each time I manipulated the slide.

That's when I got a towel and just soaked the slide in CLP gun oil. I wiped off the outside of the gun and I started racking the slide over and over and over again. I moved the slide back and forth constantly for about 15 minutes while watching TV.

When the next commercial came on, I looked down at my new gun and realized that the squeak was gone. The slide was moving freely and all was right with the world.

I spent a total of about 3 hours going from a box of parts to a (hopefully) working gun. I love the way it looks, and I'm really excited to shoot it. The best part of this was learning how every tiny part inside a Gen 3 Glock works.

I'll write back again after I put some rounds through it...

Here's another pic...

View attachment 76966
That slide sticking is a common issue. Try taking a stripped slide and turn it around backwards and slide it on from the back to see how it lines up with the front rails. if you can slide it on backwars most of the way it is lined up good. If not you will need to align the rails which will mean some careful filing and polishing.
 
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