Question re: surface rust

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I have a Glock 26 that has bounced around in my glove box in my P/U for some time. I pulled it out yesterday and noticed tiny surface rust spots on the slide. Please share with me the best way to deal with this. If you must, please feel free to wag your finger at me and tell me what I already know...., that I should have done a brief check every 6 months or so and oil them again.

Mea Culpa and all that.

What should I do now?
 
I have a Glock 26 that has bounced around in my glove box in my P/U for some time. I pulled it out yesterday and noticed tiny surface rust spots on the slide. Please share with me the best way to deal with this. If you must, please feel free to wag your finger at me and tell me what I already know...., that I should have done a brief check every 6 months or so and oil them again.

Mea Culpa and all that.

What should I do now?
It’s a Glock throw it away and get a new one :p or even better get you a CZ.
 
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Keeping it soaked in Hoppe's No. 9 (or I'm sure some other solvents will do the same thing) always works wonders for me. I have taken parts that I thought would have to be stripped and refinished and brought them back from the dead.

By "soaked" I mean scrub the slide down in Hoppe's and let it sit in a bowl or something to collect the drippings, then keep coming back and re-wetting it with fresh solvent and scrubbing. I would stay away from rust remover as a first line of defense, as that may also remove the finish. I don't know about Glock factory finish, but that stuff definitely removes bluing.

For prevention in the future, you might look into those baked in oil treatments like Frog Lube. The way everyone talks about it, that would be a good way to set it and forget it for longer periods of time like you are describing.
 
Please share with me the best way to deal with this.


Put it back in the glove box and quit worrying over it. It's a glock, it's fine. Time is precious, spend it on things that matter.

When/if you ever want to sell it, everyone here will say it's worthless because it's not pretty. They're just hoping you'll give them a good deal on it. But put it on a table at a gun show and it'll sell for >$300 because it's fine.
 
Put it back in the glove box and forget about it. It's a Glock, it's going to work when you need it. Rust just adds character to a Glock because you hardly ever see one with rust.
 
Get some Eezox. Apply it liberally, use cloth to work rust spots. Wipe off, but leave thin film to dry.

Should be good for another 6 months.
 
do nothing...I would like to know how long it would take for the rust to become serious...make a documentary...
 
Soak it in WD 40 and let it sit an hour. Wipe with a soft cloth. You may want to do it twice, when the cloth comes back with no rust your good. WD 40 penetrates and loosens stuff, it isn't oil. Once you have it all removed you need something to protect the gun going forward. Remington used to sell this stuff called dry lube, you sprayed it and it was white and then it went clear. I don't see it any more, it probably causes cancer or something and/or they changed the contents. That stuff was great. I have sprayed guns in Florida and it stays protected for years of humidity and finger prints. My favorite thing now is a silicone gun cloth. Wipe the gun down and leave it in the glove box. Every 6 months or so do it again. The silicone coats the gun and is longer lasting than oil. Oil is ok for internal parts but it dries up, I would use gun grease on the rails. I use the Lucas Oil gun grease. It will stay there forever and the internals are pretty protected from duct. I do not baby my guns, i shoot the hell out of most of them and i only clean them ever 2-3000 rounds. Glocks may not be able to handle that. :)
 
Just wipe it down with a good CLP-type cleaner/lubricant. There are bunch out there, and they'll all work pretty well. If the slide rusted, it was bacause some of the sprayed-on finish had been scratched or chipped through. (The Tenifer treatment given to the bare metal is a surface hardening treatment that also resists rush, so rust must've had a good long time to do it's work. The colored finish is something like Cerakote. Wipe it down from time to time, and you'll not have more problems as the wipe down will keep the areas that CAN rust from rusting.

Keep a small rag (in a plastic bag) that is damp with the cleaner/lubricant tightly sealed in the glove box, and you can wipe it down from time to time.

As for avoiding WD-40, I don't think it's really as bad as so many folks claim, and I've never seen the sticky build-up that supposedly follows its continued use. I will note that nearly every "horror story" I've heard or read about as a result of using WD-40 on a gun was a second-hand story, from somebody who knew someone who knew about the problem or from a someone who knew a gunsmith who had problems cleaning, or from a grandfather who said he ruined a gun using it, etc., etc.

The WD-40 company itself strongly advertises its use as a preservative and lubricant, so I'm pretty sure unhappy customers could go after them if they had problems. But I've never heard of anyone doing it. (It is a great cleaner for stainless steel appliances. It is mostly mineral oil, with some other additives.)

Other lubes and solvents like Breakfree CLP, Ballistol, etc. are better for the type of rust-prevention process you need, but WD-40 is a good First-Aid step when a gun gets really wet, (dunked in a river crossing, etc.,) if that first-aid use (which will get all of the water out of nooks and crannies) is followed by a thorough cleaning and lubing, the gun will be almost like new.
 
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Bronze wool is less aggressive than steel wool, but you gotta want to get it. There really are a couple dozen good answers.
 
WD-40 is a good First-Aid step when a gun gets really wet, (dunked in a river crossing, etc.,) if that first-aid use (which will get all of the water out of nooks an crannies)
The design and name WD-40 is it was the 40th compound they came up for Water Displacement. It does a good job of it.
 
The design and name WD-40 is it was the 40th compound they came up for Water Displacement. It does a good job of it.
I’ve always found it funny that it took 40 tries to come up with mineral spirits and think that maybe it was more like 40 tries to figure out how to market mineral spirits more profitably. I know, it isn’t actually 100% mineral spirits.
 
I seem to have pitted my Gen 4 19 from carrying last summer. It never turned orange, just developed these pits where it touches my skin. I didn’t oil the pistol all summer.

So Glocks do need maintenance afterall. This is the first Glock I’ve corroded and I’ve owned quite a few. I wish I had that Gen 3 finish. Never had a problem with that.

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