Redoing the under deck roof today.

fishgutzy

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This is a case of not doing it right the first time.
So now I am redoing it. Ha!
Still have to get a couple more panels to cut into 24 inch pieces to finish out to the edge of the deck.
Will be much drier under the deck when done.
Got the dogs laying around my feet when the screwed gun is not in use.
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Better get a permit. :D:D:D
@fishgutzy , what he said.

The Inspectorator would point out that the topmember needs to be parallel to the sidebar(s); otherwise, the drain coefficient is rendered by the interslope.

This could have a negative impact on your resale value and cause a document cloister in the archive.
 
@fishgutzy , what he said.

The Inspectorator would point out that the topmember needs to be parallel to the sidebar(s); otherwise, the drain coefficient is rendered by the interslope.

This could have a negative impact on your resale value and cause a document cloister in the archive.
Actually the slope is set to 1/4" per foot.
Since the panels are 26" with a 2" overlap,
16" joist spacing on the deck, it is not possible to to do the slope boards parallel without adding a lot more cost and work with no added benefit. Cutting a 12" long 2x4 corner to corner is not something I have the tools or the patience to do.
And I would have to add more boards in between the joists due to the 24" pitch of the panels.
At the outer edge I will add a roof style stain sloped to one corner.
I might hang another 2x4 at the ends to cover the edge of the panels and conceal the sloping.
By the time I'm done there will be nothing to see.
If I could redo the entire deck I'd have footings and 6x6 beams against the house to hold the deck. The builder decided to bolt that edge to the house. This holes allowed water to get into the downstairs den.


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Added note. The morons that built the deck built it flat. Damn near no slope. Thus the slope creating pieces.
There would be no drainage at all if I attached to the deck joists.
I'll go through our closing docks and post the flippers as a company to absolutely avoid. We're have spent several thousand just fixing stuff they took short cuts on.
These morons but am over range microwave in the tired it into the circuit for the upstairs den 15A circuit. That microwave draw was 13A and needed its own new circuit.
We ripped that out and put in a 350CFM range hood.

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For added fun, I'm doing this by myself.
Made a T with 2x4 as my second set of hands to hold up the panel while scewing it in.
Also getting bannged in the head by this beam too many times while cleaning the panels before placing them.
The curve distortion from my glasses has caused many bumps. Ha!
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I'll be doing the same thing soon.

I was pricing that out the other day and found out it would be cheaper to use corrugated metal.
 
Please come up with somethin' good, 'cause I also will be doin' the same thing soon, when I rebuild my deck.

Amazing, isn't it, that metal is less expensive than plastic?
 
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Added note. The morons that built the deck built it flat. Damn near no slope. Thus the slope creating pieces.
There would be no drainage at all if I attached to the deck joists.
I'll go through our closing docks and post the flippers as a company to absolutely avoid. We're have spent several thousand just fixing stuff they took short cuts on.
These morons but am over range microwave in the tired it into the circuit for the upstairs den 15A circuit. That microwave draw was 13A and needed its own new circuit.
We ripped that out and put in a 350CFM range hood.

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Why would you not build a deck level?
 
Some build decks with a slight slope to ensure drainage away from the house.

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Lol. Some people get bad info on the interwebs too... Unless the deck has a solid surface that makes no sense. Deck joists run perpendicular to the band, decking runs parallel to the band. Therefore the joints run perpendicular to the direction you would slope it. Water isn't going to magically skip across the joints just because you slope the joists. I've built a thousand decks. If one isn't level it's because I screwed up...
 
Lol. Some people get bad info on the interwebs too... Unless the deck has a solid surface that makes no sense. Deck joists run perpendicular to the band, decking runs parallel to the band. Therefore the joints run perpendicular to the direction you would slope it. Water isn't going to magically skip across the joints just because you slope the joists. I've built a thousand decks. If one isn't level it's because I screwed up...
Good to know.
I set the straps for the under deck roofing at 1/4" per foot.
The area was nice and dry this morning after the rain last night.

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I did a similar job under our deck once using the same kind of plastic sheets about 12 years ago. It worked ok but the pine needles get in there and cause drain issues ( hard to clean them out) and the plastic cracked in a few spots. I want to redo it with a different construction method but since I screened it in underneath that will be complicated and I'll have a lot of stuff to tear out.

Is there an ideal DIY design that someone can post a link to ?
 
Deck joists run perpendicular to the band, decking runs parallel to the band. Therefore the joints run perpendicular to the direction you would slope it.
Mine is the opposite.

Have you never built one with the decking perpendicular to the band?
 
Mine is the opposite.

Have you never built one with the decking perpendicular to the band?

Nope and for good reason. Doesn't make sense structurally. It requires more beam work. It's an inferior way to tie a deck to a house. Instead of every joist tied to the framing of the house, just the inside joist is. And unless all your boards are cupped, the water still isn't going to run the length of the board anyway. You can build a freestanding deck with a joist-over-beam system that way, but it isn't the standard even for that.
 
The squirrels are gonna love that habitat yer providin' 'em... jus' sayin'!
And all the yellow jacket nest you will never be able to kill. I’ll be doing the same project by summer end. I rebuilt my deck flooring two years ago. 3000-3500 screws is a lot of battery recharges.
 
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The builder decided to bolt that edge to the house. This holes allowed water to get into the downstairs den.

Common to tie to the structure, but the holes must normally be sealed somehow. Hopefully you found a solution before closing it up.
 
a friend of mine responded when I tol' him thar were folks over here advocating against planking decks to run away from the house. The feller "Bob" that he is referring to is a dear departed friend who designed and built many houses in his 90 years.

...can hear Bob saying " Bless his heart". If there were a structural reason for his method being better it would be part of the code. If you use wood for your surface it is only a matter of time til there is some cupping.
 
a friend of mine responded when I tol' him thar were folks over here advocating against planking decks to run away from the house. The feller "Bob" that he is referring to is a dear departed friend who designed and built many houses in his 90 years.
This reminds me of the game “telephone” plus the spirit of an old dead builder.
 
a friend of mine responded when I tol' him thar were folks over here advocating against planking decks to run away from the house. The feller "Bob" that he is referring to is a dear departed friend who designed and built many houses in his 90 years.
Yup.
The boards are cupped already.


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I plan to do the same & have drain pipes to the woods installed.
Maybe having the low side mounted on a 2” x 12” would give space to clean out with a blower or sprayer.
As far as "how too" setting the slope was the easy part. Would be easier if I had a table saw. Buy a cut guide on my 20+ year old Craftman circular saw did the trick. Had a 11'6" x 20' span. Set straps every 2'. Bought 6 2X4X2 PT. Cut 1/2" from from 2, 1" from 2, 1.5" from 2. That can me the 12 pieces I needed for the 1/4" per foot slope. Don't try the cut with a battery powered circular saw. Even a Dewalt. Battery overheats and shuts down on these long thick cuts.
As for screws, by the less expensive galvanized roofing screws. Cost less than half as much as the color matched screws. That is unless color matching is a much. $10/120 versus $15/50.
 
As far as "how too" setting the slope was the easy part. Would be easier if I had a table saw. Buy a cut guide on my 20+ year old Craftman circular saw did the trick. Had a 11'6" x 20' span. Set straps every 2'. Bought 6 2X4X2 PT. Cut 1/2" from from 2, 1" from 2, 1.5" from 2. That can me the 12 pieces I needed for the 1/4" per foot slope. Don't try the cut with a battery powered circular saw. Even a Dewalt. Battery overheats and shuts down on these long thick cuts.
As for screws, by the less expensive galvanized roofing screws. Cost less than half as much as the color matched screws. That is unless color matching is a much. $10/120 versus $15/50.
Thankfully I’ve got a table saw, I’m concerned about the crud buildup & hadn’t even considered squirrels.
There’s plenty of room underneath, the deck’s @ 14’ off the ground.
 
Hah!

All you guys talking about building decks are crazy. Seriously?!?!?!?! Some of the trash being spewed in here is ridiculous
I'm just picking, carry on...
I'm just putting a roof under my deck to make it a drier space. Might box out the existing patio floor and have a smoother floor poured.
Previous owner did a a less than halfassed job.
 
It’s a lot faster, easier and cheaper to hang a tarp. :p
 
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