Reloading questions.
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20-25 cent per give or take a little if you already have brass.
About 8-10 cents for the projectile, same for the primer, 2-3 cents for the powder. So, about 18-23 cents per round. If I had to buy components now, it would be hard for me to justify loading 9mm. Thank goodness I stocked up on powder and primers before the (latest) craziness started.
If you shop for deals you can buy projectiles for .08 - I use Everglades copper plated and Acme
Primers are .07-.08 , plus a couple of pennies for powder
Assuming you don’t buy brass it is about 18 cents per round. When is the last time you bought 100 rounds for 18.00?
Components are high , but still cheaper than buying. Plus if you get in the habit of buying components in bulk when you find them for a decent price - you have ability to load 500 rounds on a Friday night
Primers are .07-.08 , plus a couple of pennies for powder
Assuming you don’t buy brass it is about 18 cents per round. When is the last time you bought 100 rounds for 18.00?
Components are high , but still cheaper than buying. Plus if you get in the habit of buying components in bulk when you find them for a decent price - you have ability to load 500 rounds on a Friday night
It’s not about the price savings for me as much as the fact ammo shortages don’t affect me. It’s one less thing that can be dangled over my head and used to control me. I’m not too far from you and happy to show you the ropes if you ever need it. If you want to reload and guarantee savings also… cast your own.
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I think your math is dead on. You could save .01 per round with Brazos coated lead, but what’s a penny? But with 9mm at $11-12/box it would be hard to justify buying equipment and starting fresh just for 9mm unless you just wanted the experience of rolling your own. Thankfully I was stocked up on primers and load more calibers. Saving is much greater with Other calibers. The other Thing no one takes into consideration is you always want to try different bullet styles and weights and other powders too. Before you know it you have thousands of bullets and pounds of powder but that’s the part I love about loading my own.
Don't get into reloading to save money. There are lots of good reasons to pick up the hobby but cost savings isn't one of them.
It's been said here a hundred times, yes you can save lots round vs round comparison; but you don't save anything because you just shoot more. I shoot WAY more than if I had to buy per round, especially things like 308 match grade. If I had to pay 50 bucks for 20 rounds I wouldn't shoot at all.
I have everything I need to reload ammo for every caliber I own. It’s comforting knowing I have the means to make my own ammo during any kind of market.
You can shave more off the cost by getting into casting. I get all my lead free from a local tire store.
You can also save money by going to the local metal scrap yard and buying brass casings by the pound.
You can shave more off the cost by getting into casting. I get all my lead free from a local tire store.
You can also save money by going to the local metal scrap yard and buying brass casings by the pound.
Well, if you find a good deal, I say that is true.
I got started close to 10 years ago, right when “the last big scare” was starting and primers were getting hard to find. I managed to find 1000 primers and some Power Pistol powder to get me started. During the powder shortage, I would buy a pound of different powder whenever I could find it, just to test. Since then, I have tested over 30 different powders in 45acp (and other calibers, but not to the extent I did with 45acp). Some I liked, some I didn’t. I settled on a few powders to stock up on, but I also have load data for other powders I know I could use if I have to. When prices came back down, I stocked up. Blue Collar Reloading certainly assisted me in that endeavor during the years they came to the Raleigh gun shows. I haven’t had to buy any primers during the last couple of years, and won’t need to for another few years. But if the prices do come back down, I will stock up again.
I mentioned I would be hard pressed to justify loading 9mm, but that is purely from a cost perspective. If I load my own, I can customize my ammo any way I need to make it more accurate or reliable. I enjoy it and it has become a hobby, and that is reason enough for me.
Combat Diver
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Snoopz
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Search reloading spreadsheets... via "duckduckgo" there's bunch or fire up excel, you can
do a crude one ... and there are even some sites that you just plug the numbers in.
pound of powder = 7000 grains so... cost / 7000 x charge weight = A
bullets = cost / quantity = B
primers = cost / quantity = C
brass = cost / quantity = D (leave "0" for Free)
So A + B + C + D = cost
If you cast it will save your some money.
Buy in bulk when and where you can.
9mm you may not see the "returns" you think unless you cast.
Me I reload for everything I shoot, 17-Rem, 22 Hornet out to 50 BMG,
lots and lots in between. reloading gives you the ability to tailor the loads
to a particular firearm, as an example just because you have 3 or 4 308 rifles
does not mean the loads for one will shoot accurate in all of them
-Snoopz
picked this up a while ago can upload it some where
do a crude one ... and there are even some sites that you just plug the numbers in.
pound of powder = 7000 grains so... cost / 7000 x charge weight = A
bullets = cost / quantity = B
primers = cost / quantity = C
brass = cost / quantity = D (leave "0" for Free)
So A + B + C + D = cost
If you cast it will save your some money.
Buy in bulk when and where you can.
9mm you may not see the "returns" you think unless you cast.
Me I reload for everything I shoot, 17-Rem, 22 Hornet out to 50 BMG,
lots and lots in between. reloading gives you the ability to tailor the loads
to a particular firearm, as an example just because you have 3 or 4 308 rifles
does not mean the loads for one will shoot accurate in all of them
-Snoopz
picked this up a while ago can upload it some where
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One other benefit. The ability to dial a load in for more consistent groups. The math / cost per round is the closest only with bargain ammo. If you want to load a hollow point that mimics your defensive load for training…maybe you have a suppressor and you want a nice subsonic load
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Neat program.
Snoopz
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I uploaded it here if anyone wants it, it as other "tabs" you can figure in
the cost of reloading equipment, etc.
cost of reloading spreadsheet
https://www.mediafire.com/file/wu0vt19xv1d84k7/reloadingxlr_v3.3+(1).xlsx/file
the cost of reloading equipment, etc.
cost of reloading spreadsheet
https://www.mediafire.com/file/wu0vt19xv1d84k7/reloadingxlr_v3.3+(1).xlsx/file
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I learned a lesson in 2008. Reloading is good for a lot of reasons but my main reason is when the ammo shelves are empty, I can still have ammo.
You shoot a magnum rifle, you better handload or have a nice income. 300 Winchester Magnum ammo is $65+ for 20 rounds. If you want to load 9mm 147gr subsonic, lead coated bullets are your friend. Your suppressor doesn’t like lead?
Nosler makes a dandy 147gr JHP that is one of the most accurate bullets in 9mm.
Reloading is more about choices and personal satisfaction than just saving money. If you like to tinker or want to shoot better, or make a Buffalo rifle come alive, you will be drawn to handloads. If it is just saving a few bucks, you will get bummed out from the time and investment it takes to break even.
If $$ is your driver, spend your money on a case or three of Wolf Match Extra or Eley Tenex. Buy a S&W 41 and shoot until you grow weary. Much more enjoyable to shoot .22 than load hundreds of rounds of 9mm.
Whatever you do, for 9mm remember that volume is your friend. Buy lots of components in bulk, get a blue Dillon progressive and all the goodies, and start cranking. Only takes an hour to load 500 rounds.
Or, just load up a bunch of 10-round .22 magazines and keep shooting till that brick of Wolf or Eley is gone.
Choices are good🤪
Nosler makes a dandy 147gr JHP that is one of the most accurate bullets in 9mm.
Reloading is more about choices and personal satisfaction than just saving money. If you like to tinker or want to shoot better, or make a Buffalo rifle come alive, you will be drawn to handloads. If it is just saving a few bucks, you will get bummed out from the time and investment it takes to break even.
If $$ is your driver, spend your money on a case or three of Wolf Match Extra or Eley Tenex. Buy a S&W 41 and shoot until you grow weary. Much more enjoyable to shoot .22 than load hundreds of rounds of 9mm.
Whatever you do, for 9mm remember that volume is your friend. Buy lots of components in bulk, get a blue Dillon progressive and all the goodies, and start cranking. Only takes an hour to load 500 rounds.
Or, just load up a bunch of 10-round .22 magazines and keep shooting till that brick of Wolf or Eley is gone.
Choices are good🤪
Lot of "cheap" bullets and brass at Xtreme Bullets and Everglades. Cheapest ive seen factory 9mm was like $14 a box. Before the Covid and other craziness 9mm was selling for $8 a box. Probably cant load it for that but $8 a box 9mm even name brand is most likely not as accurate as what you can load.
Don’t pay for brass. Spend a few minutes picking some up (if allowed) at the range. My range is never busy during the week and I will pick up as much as I shoot each time I go. I only paid for 9mm and .38 when I first started loading 3 years ago but haven’t since.
For those talking about accuracy in a pistol round, how accurate are your self rolled rounds compared to factory? I roll my own, and anything I load or buy is probably way more accurate than I am. Which brings up another question, when load testing, you shoot out of a vise, pistol or rifle.
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In handgun ammo, I am not always looking for a handload that is more accurate than factory, I may just want a load that is accurate enough. I am usually more concerned about reliability - proper feeding and ejecting. There are times when I really want better accuracy, though.
I started loading 7.62 Nagant because the factory ammo just wasn’t accurate out of my gun. All the factory ammo I found had .308” bullets, while my gun was .311”. I certainly don’t shoot that gun often enough to justify buying the dies, much less the time it takes to load up a batch. But, I enjoyed the challenge, and ended up with a load that is way more accurate and fun to shoot than factory ammo.
When I am going to chrono loads, I always use a rest, whether I am checking for accuracy or not. When I first started using an optical chrono, I was testing some loads, shooting off hand, and I pulled a shot. I knew I pulled the shot, and fully expected to see a hole in my chrono, but somehow I managed to miss. Ever since then, I use a rest to help prevent holes in my chrono. I’ve now put more than 1000 shot groups over that chrono without hitting it. Also, the rest helps to take me out of the equation when it comes to accuracy. I have also used a rail mounted laser to help with my accuracy tests, but I adjust the laser to be about 3” below the expected POI, so that I don’t inadvertently eliminate my aim point.
Snoopz
Well-Known Member
In Handgun accurate loading is for the 45acp's mainly. H&G-68's, Zero 185 JHP. the "other 45's is functioning, the other handguns yeah I want accurate loads, but not OCD about it
"except" the T/C Contender
Handgun load testing, functioning, etc. is all done out of a Ransom Rest, takes the "ole man" out of the equation. Use the rest a lot
when building 1911's. It also comes in handy when you get those who say their gun doesn't shoot well only to find out it's the
operator. Or the direct opposite the gun doesn't function...and my line "you paid how much for it, you best get a refund"
-Snoopz
I seriously considered getting a Ransom rest, but could not justify the cost for the limited amount I might use it. If cost were not a consideration, I would have a ransom rest AND pressure testing equipment for all my load workups.
More Questions and didn't want to start a new thread. Hope OP doesn't think I'm hijacking thread. If I bought the RCBS kit on sale at Brownell's right now, what other components or tools would I need besides dies? Speaking of dies, why are some sold in sets and some in singles? The sets seem to be the same caliber, why are there multiples?
RCBS ROCK CHUCKER SUPREME MASTER RELOADING KIT | Brownells
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The dies in a die set for a specific caliber each perform a different function in the bullet making process. In a 3-die pistol set, one die squeezes the brass back down from it's expanded fired state. Another die opens the mouth back up to make room to insert a new bullet. The other die seats the bullet and optionally crimps the case down. There are YouTube's on reloading.
I've shot my 1.5" guaranteed group at 50yds Les Baer 1911 out of a Ransom Rest and with the mythical Federal Gold Medal Match factory ammo, it will group 1.5". I have since cloned that load but have not shot it out of the Ransom Rest. Setting up and using the Ransom at my club is a PITA. Most of the time when shooting handguns for group/load development, I shoot off what used to be known and sold as an Outers Pistol Perch. My sporter rifle load testing is done off a Caldwell Rock BR front rest with a Protektor rear bag. My Benchrest rifle testing is done off a Sinclair Competition Shooting Rest front rest and a Protektor Doctor flat top rear bag. Federal Gold Medal Match rifle ammo is used far and wide for match shooting and accuracy testing. My handloads are more accurate. Benchrest competition shooting necessitates one hole accuracy. That is pretty much 5 shots in one hole. Trigger pull weight has a lot to do with accuracy, that and about 50 other variables.
Snoopz
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Dies Generally come in sets:
Sizer / Seat & Crimp in one
Or Sizer / Seat / Crimp
What you need basically to load a specific cartridge. Just like the kit the basic less dies
Die Sets vary 2 dies, 3 dies, 4 dies, will try to be "general" here
2 Dies Sets are generally a Sizer and Seater (with either roll crimp or taper built in adjusting the seat die to obtain it))
3 Dies Sets are generally Sizer, Flare / Expander, Seat (w-crimp)
4 Die Sets are generally Sizer, Flare / Expander , Seat, Crimp (roll or taper)
You will find some pistol die sets with different "seater plugs" to match some what the flat point bullets and the round nose (or hollow point)
Then you have "Carbide Die Sets" mainly for pistol so you should not need any "lube" to size the cases (YMMV -some may lube 1 n 10 case, some none)
Sizer die... returns the case back to almost near "factory" specs (notice almost near here) the sizer also may have a "depriming rod or pin" this removes the
primer when it sizes
Flare / Expander die .. expands the case mouth a little to make the bullet enter the case better and makes it easier to "set" the bullet on the case
Seat Die... Seats the bullet to the proper depth in the case
Crimp Die... either roll crimps or taper crimps to hold the bullet in place, depending on which cartridge / firearm will determine that.
Here is where you can get into other dies
Neck Sizer just sizes the cartridge neck and doesn't work the rest of the case. Use generally in the same gun you shot the brass in.
Redding Type S Bushing Die.
Roll Crimp Dies
Taper Crimp Dies
Small Base Dies for those cases mainly shot out of semi-auto rifle sizes the cartridge base (head) back so easier chambering
M-Dies for flaring case mouths to accept, cast lead and sometimes "plated" bullets (helps prevent shaving)
Die can range from little cost to several hundred depending on manufacturer, some even "one offs" just for your gun
You may run across "Steel Pistol Dies" non carbide (older sets) you will need to lube the cases
Other Tools
Case Trimmer for rifle cartridges
Decent set of check weights for your scale
Calipers to measure case length and overall cartridge loaded length (important)
And.... if you run into "crimped in primers" oh you'll know..either a "ring" or 3-4 stabbing / staking marks (depending on who you ask)
around the primer pocket, you will have to remove it before you try to seat a new primer, 2 schools on this "ream" or swage both have
their "pro n cons"
there's other "stuff you can buy down the road" to make life easier. faster, etc...
Hornady makes a "Lock n Load bushing conversion kit for the RC, remove the die nut ring, screw the bushing
in and screw the other part on the die, so all you need to do is insert n twist, to remove and insert the
dies.
Have fun, be safe, stay focused...
-Snoopz
Sizer / Seat & Crimp in one
Or Sizer / Seat / Crimp
Dies In Sets:
What you need basically to load a specific cartridge. Just like the kit the basic less dies
Die Sets vary 2 dies, 3 dies, 4 dies, will try to be "general" here
2 Dies Sets are generally a Sizer and Seater (with either roll crimp or taper built in adjusting the seat die to obtain it))
3 Dies Sets are generally Sizer, Flare / Expander, Seat (w-crimp)
4 Die Sets are generally Sizer, Flare / Expander , Seat, Crimp (roll or taper)
You will find some pistol die sets with different "seater plugs" to match some what the flat point bullets and the round nose (or hollow point)
Then you have "Carbide Die Sets" mainly for pistol so you should not need any "lube" to size the cases (YMMV -some may lube 1 n 10 case, some none)
Sizer die... returns the case back to almost near "factory" specs (notice almost near here) the sizer also may have a "depriming rod or pin" this removes the
primer when it sizes
Flare / Expander die .. expands the case mouth a little to make the bullet enter the case better and makes it easier to "set" the bullet on the case
Seat Die... Seats the bullet to the proper depth in the case
Crimp Die... either roll crimps or taper crimps to hold the bullet in place, depending on which cartridge / firearm will determine that.
Here is where you can get into other dies
Neck Sizer just sizes the cartridge neck and doesn't work the rest of the case. Use generally in the same gun you shot the brass in.
Redding Type S Bushing Die.
Roll Crimp Dies
Taper Crimp Dies
Small Base Dies for those cases mainly shot out of semi-auto rifle sizes the cartridge base (head) back so easier chambering
M-Dies for flaring case mouths to accept, cast lead and sometimes "plated" bullets (helps prevent shaving)
Die can range from little cost to several hundred depending on manufacturer, some even "one offs" just for your gun
You may run across "Steel Pistol Dies" non carbide (older sets) you will need to lube the cases
Other Tools
Case Trimmer for rifle cartridges
Decent set of check weights for your scale
Calipers to measure case length and overall cartridge loaded length (important)
And.... if you run into "crimped in primers" oh you'll know..either a "ring" or 3-4 stabbing / staking marks (depending on who you ask)
around the primer pocket, you will have to remove it before you try to seat a new primer, 2 schools on this "ream" or swage both have
their "pro n cons"
there's other "stuff you can buy down the road" to make life easier. faster, etc...
Hornady makes a "Lock n Load bushing conversion kit for the RC, remove the die nut ring, screw the bushing
in and screw the other part on the die, so all you need to do is insert n twist, to remove and insert the
dies.
Have fun, be safe, stay focused...
-Snoopz
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