Removing automotive paint from safe

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so, I bought a used Drake safe...

It was in worse condition aesthetically than I'd hoped, but mechanically is perfectly fine...especially since Greg Drake and Michael were there to grease it up, make a couple adjustments, and change the combination.

It had a decent amount of rust around the bottom, which I tried to clean up a bit while they had it lying on its side. But, I think I want to refinish it. I want to leave the door original. Just kinda neat having the original paint and decal/logo. Going to strip the rest and repaint with a different color. I've even had a wild idea to simply clear coat the rest of it.

So, what's the best option to get that paint off? I have a 4" angle grinder and figured that may be the quickest option. Should I try to remove it chemically first? Or both? Or just go ahead and grind it off?

Metal grinding wheel? Flapper wheel? Something else? (Part number would be great). I have a DW4514 on there now, and could just buy another one of those if needed. That's what I used to get the crud/rust off the bottom.

Greg said it was automotive paint on there. I believe it's DuPont or Sherwin-Williams. Safe is probably 18 years old, and it's not the same paint he uses now. The age is one reason I want to keep the door original.
 
Why not just a good scuff with 220 grit and re shoot?
No need to take all the paint off to bare.
Grind the rust, putty . Prime . Block sand those areas.

People always wanting to go bare metal when not necessary. Fix the bad spots. Shoot a sealer before top coat... Done.
 
Why not just a good scuff with 220 grit and re shoot?
No need to take all the paint off to bare.
Grind the rust, putty . Prime . Block sand those areas.

People always wanting to go bare metal when not necessary. Fix the bad spots. Shoot a sealer before top coat... Done.
Well...

In this case, they use some kind of product to add texture to the paint. I'm wanting to get rid of all that. Not sure if that means I need to get down to bare metal. Might have to start on it to see.

I'd think stripping it would be just as easy as grinding rust, putty, etc.

ETA: and if I decide to go clear, I definitely have to get it all off
 
Etching primer is what you seek
That is to be used on bare metal (based in what I'm reading for the description)...right?

It won't take the paint off, but you're suggesting using it after I get it cleaned up and before painting?
 
That is to be used on bare metal (based in what I'm reading for the description)...right?

It won't take the paint off, but you're suggesting using it after I get it cleaned up and before painting?

Ive used it many times on "scuffed and degreased" painted surfaces with excellent results.
 
Naval jelly will take most anything off. Aircraft stripper is a mother, but you probably don't want to be spraying that stuff in your garage. If you're insistent on grinding, an angle grinder and a wire wheel. Just wear a full face shield, those wires fling off and stick in flesh - AND EYES - like mini throwing knives.
 
Personally I would use an orbital sander with 60 grit to start and work my way finer from there as needed. Using a regular grinder, no matter what wheel you use will look like crap and paint isn't going to hide it

Treat rusted surface area with some rust converter, possibly a skim coat of bondo to hide the pock marks and prime and paint with whatever you desire.
 
Chemicals will be the quickest and easiest way to get the paint off. You can use the aircraft striper from a parts store and it does OK. I can get you the name of the stuff the painters use at work and it is amazing! Only thing about it, DO NOT get it on your skin.

Do not use rust converter. It is absolute garbage and the rust will continue to grow. If you have rust the only solution is to completely strip it, remove the rust and seal the metal with a good primer, I like epoxy primer. From there you can built your finish.
 
Just wear a full face shield.

Naval jelly or paintable aircraft stripper will work too, but thats more or less work depending on how you look at it.

He didn't ask what was osha approved lol! Though wearing proper ppe is a good idea.


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Work smart not hard ... POR15 Gel Stripper followed by orbital sanding with progressively fine wet sand paper to get the finish like you want. A must is to then follow with POR15 Metal prep so whatever paint or clear coat your go with adheres.
 
I have the safe on wheels right now, as I wasn't expecting to have one this quick. That'll make it easy to wheel away from the way and "test" on the back side.

I can get stuff from Grainger at a discount, which sometimes is a great deal. I'm going to hit a spot on the back with the existing grinding wheel I have on hand and see how it goes tomorrow. They're $1.64 (my cost) from Grainger, with 1-2 day free shipping. :D
 
Just take a grinder with 60-80 gritt to it to rough up the paint. Paint that's on it is good (unless flaking). If it is flaking take it down to bare metal with a wire wheel on the grinder or chemically. As others have said Naval Jelly, paint stripper, even Easy Off oven cleaner works great.

Use actone to wipe it down before painting. I do 2-3 wiping just to be sure..do the hard to reach areas first.
 
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You making a jewelry box?

I’d take a torch to it, burn off the rust and most of the paint, use the 12 gauge to pound it with copper, then let it develop a nice patina. Tell folks it was pulled out of Hitler’s bunker.
 
Lol... Remington bead blaster? I was gonna suggest a heat gun but it sounds like this one has been answered.
 
Just take a grinder with 60-80 gritt to it to rough up the paint. Paint that's on it is good (unless flaking).
Question for anybody...

I may take this approach instead of trying to get it all off. I have two goals:

1. Rough it up for new paint to attach
2. Remove the texture that's currently there

Is 60-80 still what I want? Or maybe 120? I'm hoping a flap disc would be an appropriate choice?
 
A wire brush on your grinder will work better than a flap disc. It will remove the paint and won't hurt the metal


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A wire brush on your grinder will work better than a flap disc. It will remove the paint and won't hurt the metal
Like this?

IMG_0098.JPG

As opposed to this?

IMG_0097.JPG

Or are you talking about one of the cup style? And if so...this style?

IMG_0099.JPG

Or this?

IMG_0100.JPG


I've never used my grinder for anything except cutting and heavy grinding, so just not sure exactly what I should use in this situation.
 
On my bridgeport I used 120 but I wasn't taking it down to the bare metal either. Just down enough to get the oils out from years of use.
 
Pics during the process please. I'm interested in how this goes. I probably would use: but I'm not going to claim to be an expert either.

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Pics during the process please. I'm interested in how this goes.
Will definitely have some pics.

Take these and just roll with it. If you want to use 80 or 60, that's fine but you'll need to go over it again with something finer to get the surface smooth. Use a high build paint to hide any "opps" or mistakes.
I'm going with Rustoleum Hammered. I think I've chosen Dark Bronze, as it appears darker than the Brown. I think it'll be a nice combination with the original green door and gold logo/pinstriping.

It's what I used (but black) on my TJ bumpers, roll cage, rocker panels, etc. It hides imperfections fairly well.
 
Will definitely have some pics.


I'm going with Rustoleum Hammered. I think I've chosen Dark Bronze, as it appears darker than the Brown. I think it'll be a nice combination with the original green door and gold logo/pinstriping.

It's what I used (but black) on my TJ bumpers, roll cage, rocker panels, etc. It hides imperfections fairly well.

Hammer finish and that color should turn out very nice! Post pictures of the progress!
 
Do yourself a favor and use an orbital sander instead of the grinder. You're going to leave swirls all in the surface with the grinder, it's meant to clean a certain spot, not treat an entire surface.
Chemical strip it, clean up the rust, put down a layer of etching primer where the rust is, orbital sand it smooth, use some glazing putty to fill in any dips, block or orbital sand it smooth. Shoot the whole safe with etching primer, block sand once more smooth and then chemical wash it and spray your color.
 
Sand it to give the Old paint teeth. Use glazing putty to fill low spots. That will be faster than stripping. Sherwin Williams has a product called ospho that will eliminate any rust. I used it on a 30,000 gal propane tank 13 years ago, rust hasn't come back yet.
 
Just give it to me and don't worry about the refinishing.... :) :)

I would use a cemical strip but do it outside. Or a sander with 60 grit. A wire wheel will show up in the paint unless you do alot of filling to remove the scratches from the metal. Good luck! And I would like to see pics when u are done.
 
Ok. First, the disclaimer. I overthink most projects. I also take a lot of advice, then try to figure out a cheaper & easier way to do it. :D

Because there's usually 3 ways to do something:
1. The right way
2. The wrong way
3. My way, which is like the wrong way but faster


So, last week I run out to get some supplies. I go to:
1. Northern Tool and bought a 5 pack of 120 grit disc for my angle grinder
2. Lowes and looked around, then bought a pack of 80 grit stick on discs and the adapter to use them on my drill (after picking up a variety of other things and putting them all back) and a can of acetone
3. Moe's for free queso day, and to talk itself out of the plan in my head...figuring I'd be too heavy handed with an angle grinder
4. Back by Lowes to buy a pack of 120 grit stick on discs
5. Back to Northern Tool to return the 5 pack

Here are a couple pics of the safe before I did anything:

IMG_0163.JPG IMG_0165.JPG IMG_0164.JPG

As I mentioned earlier, most of the issues were on the very bottom and around the bottom edge. I was able to grind most of the bottom while it was on its side in Greg Drake's truck, and hit it with black Rustoleum.

The adapter I bought included one 60 grit disc so I used it around the bottom. I also used the angle grinder on the bottom edge of the back for a couple spots.

Then I went over the whole thing with 80 grit discs. Didn't really concern myself with whether I removed the paint or not. Feels decently smooth now, with the texture gone for the most part. Wiped it down with acetone.

Here's a shot to give an idea of what it looks like now:

IMG_0167.JPG

There's a decent streak of rust/crud on the bottom lip. So, the original plan was to just paint the outer flat surfaces. I think now I'll basically end up painting everything that's not the door, so the lip all the way around where the door rests.

My Dark Bronze showed up over the weekend. Next step is to sand again tomorrow, but with the 120 grain discs. Then wipe it down again. Hoping to paint on Saturday. I also may end up clear coating the door, or maybe waxing it. I washed it off today. There are a couple big scratches on it, so I just want something to protect it.
 
What's your address?
I'll bring a 12 pack and film this for the rest of the group.
We may even get on TV and win $10,000.
 
North side of Charlotte. :p
 
Given the rust at the bottom edge i’d get the thing on its back so you can see what the bottom looks like and work at a more comfortable height.
 
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