Ruh-roh. Check engine light.

Those plugs are worn out and the plug wires look to be original but I can't tell without seeing the writing on them, if they are original they are well past time to change at 150k which means the cap and rotor are probably original too and also well past time for a change. Follow Mikes instructions.
 
214882024.jpg Is the motor a vtec or non vtec 4cyl? . Is the car a coupe or sedan? DX, LX or EX model? Let me know and I will send you more info on it.
 
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I have a 97 Nissan pickup that i bought my son in high school. it did the same thing , showed misfire number one cylinder. changed wires cap , didn't help. change fuel filter, gas first came out clear until i blew it out. i don't see how it ran. pour in seafoam and cleared up after a couple miles.
 
Check the pcv valve and hose, I had a collapsed oil softened hose, caused oil leaks at pan gasket,
not a Honda.
 
Have you ever replaced the distributor and rotor? If not I would start there.
^ This fixed the problem. A few of you noted the distributor cap and rotor, and changing those out seems to have solved the problem

Went over to @TSConver 's place (this in itself was an adventure and I was forced to begin learning heel and toe so I could simultaneously avoid rear-ending slowed and stopped vehicles in front of me while also giving enough throttle to keep the engine from stalling) and his OBD2 scanner was throwing the same cylinder 1 misfire code, and it was the only confirmed code. We checked the sparks generated by the plug wires - orange sparks, not blue. So even if the spark plugs were worn out, there was also an upstream problem. We replaced the distributor cap, distributor rotor and spark plugs; I thought about replacing the plug wires at the same time, but given they were $84 (for 4 friggin wires), I opted not to, hoping they weren't the problem and figuring that is a very easy replacement if the other parts replacements didn't resolve the issue. After parts were replaced, car started right up and settled into an idle rev range of ~775, which is where this car usually idles. Driving it, it seems the engine power is restored (it felt quite gimpy while it was misfiring). We cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet.

So I think I'm going to consider this resolved unless the CEL comes back on.

What caused it? Unclear to me. It came on all of a sudden - earlier in the trip last night, I had it idling for ~10 min and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. 15 min drive home later and it's misfiring and stalling out at idle. Not really any (wet) oil on the spark plugs or the plug wires. @Slacker might have been onto something with water in the gas - I did get gas this past Sunday. But kinda figured this would produce misfires in all the cylinders. Or perhaps a bunch of water got sprayed into injector 1? Could be a combination of some worn out ignition system parts + water in the gas, and ignition to cylinder 1 was the most deteriorated and thus least robust and most susceptible? If this happens again around this time of year, I'll definitely try the dry-gas.

While we had the distributor cap off, noticed oil inside the distributor, and it is likely a significant source of the oil that is leaking onto the transmission housing. Distributor o-ring definitely needs to be replaced. Might replace a bunch of gaskets at the same time and hopefully eliminate the need to add a bunch of oil between oil changes. Got some UV dye for this.

So thanks everyone! Now I have to get back to that front end shimmy which I'll post some additional observations on tomorrow; starting to think the CV axles are not the problem.
 
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