Safe in a Mobile Home

Chilly636

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I live in a 2006 Double wide that is on a permanent brick foundation. I’m picking up a Cannon 48 gun safe and was wondering if I should support the floor or if it will be ok...thanks for any advice


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Even in a stick built house I’d add support for a 48 gun safe. Just say it’s 500 lbs empty but your going to put another 400-500 lbs of “stuff” in it ... unless the safe is on a slab, as in slab construction, I’d add some decent support.
 
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Even in a stick built house I’d add support for a 48 gun safe. Just say it’s 500 lbs empty but your going to put another 400-500 lbs of “stuff” in it ... unless the safe is on a slab, as in slab construction, I’d add some decent support.

A couple of big guys can easily be a 600 lb dynamic load in the same floor space. If you stay next to a wall, and anchor it to wall and floor, I don’t think 1000 lb static load is going to hurt anything. At least not in standard stick built construction. I don’t know anything about modulars.
 
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I added supports under my house for my drake safe
2 floor jack/supports Home Depot 35.00 prolly overkill as eack jack supports 18-30
Pressure treated 4x4
2 cement blocks
 
I'm thinkin' there should be foundation pillar supports at least down the middle of your home. If your desired location for the safe should happen to be over one of those pillars you would probly be fine. Otherwise I would keep it on an exterior wall. If that's not an option then I would add support.
 
I live in a mobile home. There’s still a metal frame under yours probably. Mine is sitting right over top of one of the main steel beams. Been there since 2012, floor hasn’t sagged.
 
I was going to put it on an exterior wall and if I'm not mistaken one of the concrete pillars is about under the spot.
 
Live load design thresholds are much less than the weight of that safe. How big is it...maybe 36x36? So 9 square feet. If you’ve got a 500lb safe and about 500 lbs of stuff...that’s a little more than 110lb/sf. I would guess the live load rating for the structure is less than 50 lb/sf. While it may not punch a hole through your floor, it may sag and cause issues over time. I’d at least put a jack on a CMU block with a 4x4 on top in the crawl space. Wouldn’t hurt anything.
 
Live load design thresholds are much less than the weight of that safe. How big is it...maybe 36x36? So 9 square feet. If you’ve got a 500lb safe and about 500 lbs of stuff...that’s a little more than 110lb/sf. I would guess the live load rating for the structure is less than 50 lb/sf. While it may not punch a hole through your floor, it may sag and cause issues over time. I’d at least put a jack on a CMU block with a 4x4 on top in the crawl space. Wouldn’t hurt anything.
design live load for bedroom is 30psf, max concentrated load of 300lb. for a den or living room, it is 40psf with a max concentrated load of 300lb, garage is 50psf wit max concentrated load of 2000lb.

unless you are putting this on a concrete slab, you need to reinforce your floor.

these numbers are HUD guidelines.
 
Live load design thresholds are much less than the weight of that safe. How big is it...maybe 36x36? So 9 square feet. If you’ve got a 500lb safe and about 500 lbs of stuff...that’s a little more than 110lb/sf. I would guess the live load rating for the structure is less than 50 lb/sf. While it may not punch a hole through your floor, it may sag and cause issues over time. I’d at least put a jack on a CMU block with a 4x4 on top in the crawl space. Wouldn’t hurt anything.
^^^^^This is the solution. It’s cheap and will save you some distress in a few years. After about 6 months check the tension on the support and see if settling requires a few more turns.
 
This one will work on top of a solid cap block. put the cap block under the house with a treated two foot piece of 4x4 wood and get a measurement to the underside of the floor. remember also that the insulation and the black mesh will block a true measurement, so it will need to need to be cut open for the length. these come in a number of sizes. they are adjustable and you can even add a second or third block to get your correct height.
 
This one will work on top of a solid cap block. put the cap block under the house with a treated two foot piece of 4x4 wood and get a measurement to the underside of the floor. remember also that the insulation and the black mesh will block a true measurement, so it will need to need to be cut open for the length. these come in a number of sizes. they are adjustable and you can even add a second or third block to get your correct height.
Thank you
 
This one will work on top of a solid cap block. put the cap block under the house with a treated two foot piece of 4x4 wood and get a measurement to the underside of the floor. remember also that the insulation and the black mesh will block a true measurement, so it will need to need to be cut open for the length. these come in a number of sizes. they are adjustable and you can even add a second or third block to get your correct height.
Would I need to support even a longer span and have to use two jacks? the safe is 40" wide
 
I live in a mobile home. There’s still a metal frame under yours probably. Mine is sitting right over top of one of the main steel beams. Been there since 2012, floor hasn’t sagged.
I was gonna say....when I worked at Oakwood Homes in the mid-90s, there was huge metal framework under every house/schoolhouse that went down the line. You ain't gonna sag that floor.
 
If a home is only rated for 50lbs per sq ft, I imagine every person on this forum violates that rating every time they walk in the house..........
Except those of us with very long strides. :D
 
If a home is only rated for 50lbs per sq ft, I imagine every person on this forum violates that rating every time they walk in the house..........
But remember to multiply by the square footage of the room you're in. A 10x10 bedroom is 100 sq. ft. x 50 PSF = 5,000 lb total weight "limit." Considering factors of safeties and actual tolerances of the materials and fasteners used...the maximum limit for that particular room (actually more specifically, structures don't always act as units of a room, but rather as larger pieces of the structure as a whole) is higher. There's also a point load requirement in the building code of something like 200 lbs in a 1-inch diameter circle. So your 200-300 lb rear end doesn't poke the the floor with every step you take. But cram a room wall-to-wall with a bunch of 200-300 lb people, and yeah you're gonna put that structure through a stress load that may result in some failure.
 
But remember to multiply by the square footage of the room you're in. A 10x10 bedroom is 100 sq. ft. x 50 PSF = 5,000 lb total weight "limit." Considering factors of safeties and actual tolerances of the materials and fasteners used...the maximum limit for that particular room (actually more specifically, structures don't always act as units of a room, but rather as larger pieces of the structure as a whole) is higher. There's also a point load requirement in the building code of something like 200 lbs in a 1-inch diameter circle. So your 200-300 lb rear end doesn't poke the the floor with every step you take. But cram a room wall-to-wall with a bunch of 200-300 lb people, and yeah you're gonna put that structure through a stress load that may result in some failure.
So limit yourself to 10 phat girls instead of going for a new record, I got ya.
 
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