Same brand, different load ....same brass?

[Tim]

I want to get serious about reloading for my 6.5CM.

All of my previous experience has been volume oriented plinking or 3 Gun loads where match accuracy isn't necessary. So I've never bothered sorting brass by headstamp, number of loads etc.

I have ~60 empty cases from Factory loaded Hornady match loads.
50 empties from Hornady's budget American Gunner line.
And a bag of factory new unfired Hornady cases.

Since they're all Hornady cases, is it reasonable to expect same attributes with regard to volume, brass consistency, wall thickness, etc?

I know I can check volume easily, But should I concern myself with "Match" vs "standard" brass from the same manufacturer?

 

[billyh]

I would measure case volume between the two. If it's the same, treat it as such. Also keep up with the number of shots fired on the brass. Keep them in lots and when you start to see split nexks just throw out the lot. To extend brass life get an annealer and run them through it every 2-3 shots.

 

[Bailey Boat]

Tim, don't ask me why or how but the brass you buy in a bag is different than what you salvage from factory ammo. I'm a devout Winchester fan and load 22-250, 243 and 308 into WW brass. All of it began as reclaimed factory loads and it took me forever to get the accuracy I was after. When they began to show signs of failing (split necks, etc.) I bought the bagged brass.
Using the same load as before it was all over the place. Went back to square 1 and within a matter of 3 tries I had better accuracy than before. Same bullet, same primer, same powder but a different amount (less actually)
The 22-250 is the most finicky but it settled down the quickest. The 243 took me the longest in the original brass and only 2 tries in the bagged brass. The 308 was virtually a slam dunk, 2 tries and I was where I wanted to be.
So, there is a difference but I can't define what it is exactly.