I originally posted this on another forum. I thought I would share it with the "brothers". Might even be a "mother" out there? 
The Rascal firing pin has a square of metal, that stops the forward movement of the firing pin, when the square strikes the breech face. The square of metal has to be reduced, to enable the firing pin to strike the rim of the cartridge with more energy. There are better ways (mills, etc.) to do this. But, this way fixes the problem.
1) Remove bolt from rifle. Then uncock the action. Watch out for a pinched finger!
2) Use 3/16 Allen wrench to remove bolt cap. Remove the spring and the spring guide rod.
3) Before proceeding further I cleaned the end of the guide rod with alcohol. I then placed a drop of orange paint on the end of the rod. The paint was drying while I worked on the firing pin. I now have a visual indicator, to show when the rifle is cocked.
4) I used a bench block and a 5/64ths roll punch, to drive out the firing pin, pin. A piece of wood with a hole in it can be used. Be sure the pin is vertical before trying to drive it out. I couldn't tap mine out. I had to HIT IT! If that doesn't work for you, get a larger hammer. It wouldn't hurt to have an extra 5/64ths roll pin punch on hand.
5) When the pin is out, remove the firing pin. I used a piece of paper towel to prevent my small vise grips from marring, twisting, denting, or in any manner harming the actual firing pin. The vise grips must be out to the end of the firing pin, to protect it.
6) I then used a fine stone to work the square of metal down. Use a straight edge to verify that the firing pin does not protrude beyond the head of the bolt. Then 1,000 grit sand paper, glued to a popsicle stick to smooth it up. Now would be the time to do any other polishing to the firing pin. I did very little to mine.
7) Re-assemble the bolt. Be sure to re-cock it. Then insert into rifle action and enjoy your rifle.
I did "sharpen" the firing pin. Probably unnecessary?
The Rascal firing pin has a square of metal, that stops the forward movement of the firing pin, when the square strikes the breech face. The square of metal has to be reduced, to enable the firing pin to strike the rim of the cartridge with more energy. There are better ways (mills, etc.) to do this. But, this way fixes the problem.
1) Remove bolt from rifle. Then uncock the action. Watch out for a pinched finger!
2) Use 3/16 Allen wrench to remove bolt cap. Remove the spring and the spring guide rod.
3) Before proceeding further I cleaned the end of the guide rod with alcohol. I then placed a drop of orange paint on the end of the rod. The paint was drying while I worked on the firing pin. I now have a visual indicator, to show when the rifle is cocked.
4) I used a bench block and a 5/64ths roll punch, to drive out the firing pin, pin. A piece of wood with a hole in it can be used. Be sure the pin is vertical before trying to drive it out. I couldn't tap mine out. I had to HIT IT! If that doesn't work for you, get a larger hammer. It wouldn't hurt to have an extra 5/64ths roll pin punch on hand.
5) When the pin is out, remove the firing pin. I used a piece of paper towel to prevent my small vise grips from marring, twisting, denting, or in any manner harming the actual firing pin. The vise grips must be out to the end of the firing pin, to protect it.
6) I then used a fine stone to work the square of metal down. Use a straight edge to verify that the firing pin does not protrude beyond the head of the bolt. Then 1,000 grit sand paper, glued to a popsicle stick to smooth it up. Now would be the time to do any other polishing to the firing pin. I did very little to mine.
7) Re-assemble the bolt. Be sure to re-cock it. Then insert into rifle action and enjoy your rifle.
I did "sharpen" the firing pin. Probably unnecessary?