Shower handle question regarding leak.

CarolinaColtCollector

CarolinaColtCollector

It’s never a “War Crime” the first time.
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I have an old shower insert and (assuming) delta handles that control each side separately.

I have noticed when turning the water on (even hot), I’ll get a drip of water coming out from behind the cold handle, and when you turn the cold water on, I have graduated to a stream of water sometimes coming out.

Is it safe-ish to assume the leak is just at the handle and it’s designed that if it does leak, it’s there? Or am I going to be ripping an insert and wall out soon?

Im adding the caveat that it’s done this on and off for a year or so, and I have not noticed any moisture issues while replacing the floor, mold on the backer wall, etc.

I cannot remove the handle currently to look behind it, and don’t want to cause an issue if there isn’t currently one.


Leak is coming from where the handles flare out, not from the wall for reference.

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Tighten the stem packing first. If that doesn’t work there’s a rubber washer in there that sometimes needs replacing. Google the specific faucet you have and it’ll show you how to rebuild it. Most of them are fairly easy
 
Worth the time to have a look at the seat surface as well if you end up replacing the rubber seat washers on the stem.
I've found some to be so pitted that a new washer would get damaged very quickly and start dripping again. Most have replacement inserts that screw in and/or a resurfacing tool is only around $20.

Amazon product ASIN B0000CBII2
 
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I’ll just say, take care of it, don’t put it off any longer.

I put off repairing a difficult to turn shower knob in a spare bathroom and finally the cartridge broke, couldn’t turn the water off. Had to turn off the water to the house and run to THD to repair it that night.
 
I appreciate the suggestions, but I’m still curious of the main question.

If it’s leaking from the stem, is it probably just draining out of the handle and I’m good?

The handle does not want to come off, and I’m not going to pull it till the house water is off and we are demoing that shower.
 
Calling my savior, @BASIL. 🤓
 
The seat (20) is screwed to the back of the faucet body, where (23) is pointing. That’s where the water comes from, thru the hole in the seat.
The seat is sealed by the washer (17)
Between (16 and 17) is the stem threads are not water tight , see pic above.
The stem threads will allow water from the other side of the faucet to make its way to the others stem packing (14) . That’s how hot water leaks out the cold stem behind the handle escutcheon.
Tighten the nut (13) and problem is solved... for awhile.


40DF4CE9-28D7-4106-A04F-2047794837AE.png



That will be $38.50. please...


😁
 
CarolinaColtCollector said:
... I’m not going to pull it till the house water is off and we are demoing that shower.
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Smarter than I was when I tried fixing a leak!
I was not familiar with the type of valve and went forward one too many steps in the disassembly process. There's a lot more pressure in those lines than you'd expect from the usage side of a tap limiter.
 
As far as the handle not wanting to come off, it's probably got some corrosion in the joint. Remove the mounting screw, shoot some penetrating oil in the screw hole and behind the handle and let soak. Kroil will cut through most corrosion and the handle will come off.
 
I have a similar problem and it occurred to me that there is no cut off to a shower valve like there is for a sink faucet unless somebody went above and beyond and put valves somewhere accessable. Note to self for next house, all shower mixing valves will have accessable cutoffs somewhere.
 
jimmyjames8 said:
I have a similar problem and it occurred to me that there is no cut off to a shower valve like there is for a sink faucet unless somebody went above and beyond and put valves somewhere accessable. Note to self for next house, all shower mixing valves will have accessable cutoffs somewhere.
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I’m the same way, when I build a house it will have shutoffs for upstairs with easy access, whether it’s permitted or not.
 
CarolinaColtCollector said:
I’m the same way, when I build a house it will have shutoffs for upstairs with easy access, whether it’s permitted or not.
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I don't think that shutoff valves for certain parts are against code. From what I know of code, it's only verbotten if you enclose the valves inside a wall where they are inaccessible.

That said, my house was plumbed in CPVC back in the day. As things have needed repair, I'm switching out to PEX. I also have shutoff valves in my plumbing circuits where I can selectively shutoff or isolate parts while leaving the rest online. This really came in handy when my upstairs pipes froze over Christmas. I was able to isolate the master bath from the rest of the house and leave the kitchen, laundry and downstairs bath operational. Because all the valves are accessible, it's only a matter of knowing which valves control what part and that's not hard to figure out. Because of the Christmas freeze, I spent the Monday and Tuesday after Christmas replumbing my upstairs master bath completely in PEX. The drunk, brain dead plumber who plumbed the house originally was the target of quite a bit of invective discourse (aka Cussing) because he routed the supply lines to the upstairs right next to the roof deck and there was no way they could have survived that cold snap intact. Because I'm a contractor who knows some things, I was able reroute the lines in a more logical place (far less susceptible to cold) and to do it with a minimum of holes in drywall and ceiling repairs.
 
Plumbing guy at HD said there was a shower valve brand that they carry that was already high $ that offers models with mini valves in line with the mixing valve for even more $.
 
jimmyjames8 said:
Plumbing guy at HD said there was a shower valve brand that they carry that was already high $ that offers models with mini valves in line with the mixing valve for even more $.
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Yes, a lot of the single handle cartridge valves have these. Once you pull the handle and escutcheon, easy access to replace the whole cartridge.

8AF553E5-BF8F-441A-9D99-2880DF3B4907.jpeg
 
Heh. I worked as a repair tech ombudsman kind of "fix it however you can" guy on a base for lingusistics people in Colombia (they were missionaries translating the bible into indian languages where no one spoke spanish). I was 21 years old. Name was Wycliffe Bible Translators, and they had NO ability to get parts back then. I used to cut down flat rubber washers and O rings from the aircraft repair shop to diy packing and rings for ancient faucets. Also used axle grease to help pack the things to temp fix leaks. It is amazing how much you can do to innovate and it was surprising how simply these things have always been engineered. I don't think I will ever be intimidated by a faucet/valve any more after that time.

I promise you can do it. If an idiot like me can figure it out, you will do fine. Just be patient and follow the good advice already given here. Youtube and google (parts numbers) are your friend.
 
Dave951 said:
I don't think that shutoff valves for certain parts are against code. From what I know of code, it's only verbotten if you enclose the valves inside a wall where they are inaccessible.

That said, my house was plumbed in CPVC back in the day. As things have needed repair, I'm switching out to PEX. I also have shutoff valves in my plumbing circuits where I can selectively shutoff or isolate parts while leaving the rest online. This really came in handy when my upstairs pipes froze over Christmas. I was able to isolate the master bath from the rest of the house and leave the kitchen, laundry and downstairs bath operational. Because all the valves are accessible, it's only a matter of knowing which valves control what part and that's not hard to figure out. Because of the Christmas freeze, I spent the Monday and Tuesday after Christmas replumbing my upstairs master bath completely in PEX. The drunk, brain dead plumber who plumbed the house originally was the target of quite a bit of invective discourse (aka Cussing) because he routed the supply lines to the upstairs right next to the roof deck and there was no way they could have survived that cold snap intact. Because I'm a contractor who knows some things, I was able reroute the lines in a more logical place (far less susceptible to cold) and to do it with a minimum of holes in drywall and ceiling repairs.
Click to expand...
You cannot have too many shutoffs.
 
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