Slide crack on my 2011 frame

Def something to call STI with a warranty issue. That shouldn't happen

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Yeap. Call STI.

Where is the ejector pin?

What do the slide rails look like?
 
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Yeap. Call STI.

Where is the ejector pin?

What do the slide rails look like?
Isn't the ejector on the slide?

Slide rails look fine except the top one on the left had come loose.

I sent sti an email for a warranty claim.
I see what you're saying. The ejector pin has broken off. That's probably what caused the crack in the frame.
 
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I see what your saying. The ejector pin has broken off. That's probably what caused the crack in the frame.
And was wondering if it chewed up the slides rail cut on the left side. Take a pic of the slide rails section
 
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Well looks like it should be able to be welded anyways. From the interwebs

Weldability

This grade has good weldability and may be welded using any commercial method. Parts should be preheated before welding at 400-600 Âş F (200-300 Âş C), slow cooled from welding and stress relieved after. Parts in the hardened and tempered or surface-hardened conditions should not be welded since mechanical properties will be adversely affected. Parts should be welded in the annealed condition only.

Low-hydrogen electrodes are recommended together with preheat at 300 – 500 º F (150 – 260 º C.) to be maintained during welding, Cool slowly and stress relieve where possible.
 
Well looks like it should be able to be welded anyways. From the interwebs

Weldability

This grade has good weldability and may be welded using any commercial method. Parts should be preheated before welding at 400-600 Âş F (200-300 Âş C), slow cooled from welding and stress relieved after. Parts in the hardened and tempered or surface-hardened conditions should not be welded since mechanical properties will be adversely affected. Parts should be welded in the annealed condition only.

Low-hydrogen electrodes are recommended together with preheat at 300 – 500 º F (150 – 260 º C.) to be maintained during welding, Cool slowly and stress relieve where possible.
That's all good cut/paste info there , but totally inapplicable to this issue. A fine (.060) electrode on a TIG welder or laser weld and redrill the ejector pin hole would be proper repair. Not trying to strike an arc to the frame with an arc welder.
If STI will not take care of it, I can.
FWIW. Phil
 
Phoenix Trinity has a pretty good deal if your looking to do a build. View attachment 13647

Exactly what I've been looking at. Found PT when I was looking for a shielded safety and then started seeing their stuff everywhere. This package would really be a deal as I would sell the grip and get another extra large extreme shooters grip to match my Edge. I had a few things that needed some tweaking with it but all said and done I have been pleased. If STI steps up then the warranty may be worth some extra cash.
 
That's all good cut/paste info there , but totally inapplicable to this issue. A fine (.060) electrode on a TIG welder or laser weld and redrill the ejector pin hole would be proper repair. Not trying to strike an arc to the frame with an arc welder.
If STI will not take care of it, I can.
FWIW. Phil
Refer to my first post. Post number 5 I think. No one said anything about arch welding. I believe I suggested TIG welding.
 
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Yes you did indeed reference TIG in that post.
I did not note that you posted both.
However...."no one said anything about arch (arc) welding."
Uh, actually you did: Low-hydrogen electrodes are recommended together with preheat at 300 – 500 º F (150 – 260 º C.) to be maintained during welding, Cool slowly and stress relieve where possible.
....low-hydrogen electrodes refer to the "electrode" the consumable filler rod used for arc welding.
A TIG torch the (usually) Tungsten is the non consumable electrode. The proper alloy filler rod is the consumable item.
You made the proper point....TIG. Just wrong reference in your later post. And yes, I have a degree in and have taught welding courses. Albeit many moons ago.
Did not mean to start a fight or flame you.
 
Glock wouldn't have done that. or a real 1911. LOL.

In all seriousness…..sorry about that. That is a nice pistola. Im sure STI will make it right.
You're absolutely right. The glock would have melted at such a high rate of fire!:D

I've still got your shotgun shells in my truck. I need to get up that way.
 
I got ya back if you need something to shoot with while it is at STI.


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I just got off the phone with STI and it looks like they are going to replace the gun entirely. That's about as easy as it gets right there.

yeah boy. STI comes thru.
damn good guns by some damn good folks. Employee owned also.
 
Q: What is the warranty on STI products?

A: We unconditionally warranty our products for their intended purpose when installed properly. As with any product, abuse and normal wear are excluded. We stand behind our products and if you EVER have a problem with an STI, we are going to make sure to take good care of you! We pride ourselves on having the best Customer service anywhere (since we have the best Customers anywhere…) The STI warranty covers the product- not the original purchaser so even if you purchase it used, we will still warranty our work. (We do not warranty other people’s work, though, so if you or anyone else works on the gun it might void the warranty. Contact our warranty department and they will handle it on a case by case basis.) Be sure to contact the Warranty department for an RMA before shipping any warranty items to us. Any packages without a clearly marked RMA on the box will be rejected.
 
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