Solvent trap kits

Rumor is somebody on here got two of those recently, or at least something very similar...and very pleased how it performed. ;)

I bought one and it is impressive. The tolerances are tight, construction looks good. Mine is a paperweight but, I'm considering my options. There's a black one on ebay in aluminum with stainless steel components for $15 from China. Spending $200 for a tax stamp alone makes me want to go ahead and buy a pre made high quality suppressor. Thanks to Big Waylon for pointing me in the right direction to buy a good one. I've played with this "fuel filter" quite a bit and for the price, it's not a bad idea to buy a couple.

DSC02706.JPG
 
Greg I'm very interested in your F1 can work. I want to build a 9mm between K and regular lengths, but using the rugged Trilug adapter. If that can be done under say $350 before tax stamp and it meters well, I'd build 2.
 
Greg I'm very interested in your F1 can work. I want to build a 9mm between K and regular lengths, but using the rugged Trilug adapter. If that can be done under say $350 before tax stamp and it meters well, I'd build 2.
The first issue I see is finding a tube that accepts the trilug adapter. And if you had one made with that thread pitch, would there be readily available internals for it.

$350 doesn’t seem unreasonable for a fixed 9mm can. The trilug will set you back ~$100 (unless you already have it), so I wasn’t sure if you were including that in the cost. You could easily do it with freeze plugs for that cost. It’ll also depend on whether you can do the machine work yourself or have to pay somebody for labor.

BTW...I’m going to move your post and this reply to the solvent trap thread.
 
I have a buddy that should be able to do the machine work. I see that SDTA already has the adapter and it works directly with their B tube.

https://sdtacticalarms.com/-3-Lug-Mount_p_170.html

The question just becomes, what goes after the adapter? Do freeze plugs make the most sense or some other provision? I'm going to do some research.
 
I have a buddy that should be able to do the machine work. I see that SDTA already has the adapter and it works directly with their B tube.

https://sdtacticalarms.com/-3-Lug-Mount_p_170.html

The question just becomes, what goes after the adapter? Do freeze plugs make the most sense or some other provision? I'm going to do some research.
You said Rugged. That’s why I posted what I did. There are several options out there if you just want 3-lug.

I wouldn’t do a B-tube due to internal volume. There are several options to use a D-tube, and gives you lots more choices for the internals.

ETA: unless you had a specific application where you wanted to tuck the can inside a rail and then D-tube wouldn’t work

After the adapter would be a blast chamber spacer. Then either skirted cones, or skirtless cones and spacers.
 
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You said Rugged. That’s why I posted what I did. There are several options out there if you just want 3-lug.

I wouldn’t do a B-tube due to internal volume. There are several options to use a D-tube, and gives you lots more choices for the internals.

ETA: unless you had a specific application where you wanted to tuck the can inside a rail and then D-tube wouldn’t work

After the adapter would be a blast chamber spacer. Then either skirted cones, or skirtless cones and spacers.
Yea I searched on generic 3 lug because I just knew I wouldn't be able to find a solvent trap/components company who actually had their own 3 lug adapter. I was wrong!

No, no reason to need the B tube, not tucking one at least not right now. Maybe if I end up with the CMMG RDB 5" barrel and BCG kit for an upper, then I'd want to tuck a can under a rail. Seems like that could be a wicked cool setup with a standard 5.56 lower using Endo/Mean mags.
 
I purchased a couple of these too, hoping to be able to F1 sometime in the not too distant future.

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I had the SS tubes turned down between the threads to reduce weight. There’s a 7”, 8” and 9” of each style. I was lucky enough to talk my way into a testing session when I went to visit Mike and Henry at Rugged Suppressors. The Ti (Gray) cans were freeze plugs and some spacers. The SS (Burnt Bronze) were as slammed full of freeze plugs as I could get them. The SS ended up being ~5dB quieter than the Ti. All of them were in the same ballpark as some SiCo and YHM commercials cans I took with me...sometimes a little quieter, sometimes a little louder.
Remembered I had these pics saved...

Note: as mentioned above, the difference in SS vs Ti is the SS was crammed full of formed freeze plug baffles, while the Ti has some spacers installed. The baffles themselves were exactly the same in both styles.

This was a basic test of 5.56 and swapping end caps to see if the smaller hole made much difference:

B5B8245B-9DD6-4D1F-A312-7AEBFB3DC890.png

A test with my 12” 6.8:

7F1A3C22-F088-44C5-819E-F3BF42DB4775.png

Comparing 55gr 5.56:

43586BE5-68E4-4EFD-83B4-EE33CA719503.png

Comparing subsonic 300BLK:

DFC72B38-8134-4B40-B9CA-7F948E700A77.png

The F1 cans definitely metered a little louder in most instances. But the lack of blowback and the low tone made them pleasant to shoot, sometimes more pleasant than the commercial cans. That led the guys at SS and CA to miss the dB levels by 10+ dB when they guessed what the 300BLK results would be.

That experience is what made me stop really looking at advertised dB readings. Since then I’ve shot cans, and if I liked them, that was enough for me. If I couldn’t shoot them, I talked to people that had...whether they were using meters or not.
 
It's funny, I want to build my eBay kit when it comes in, its a 1" OD tube, and fully aluminum parts. I will use it on my 9mm Scorpion and I really do not care how "well" it performs as long as it performs as a suppressor should with subsonic rounds.

We will see, I am home shopping redecking this piece. LOL
 
I just bought that ebay kit a few mins ago..

Now, I need to complete the Eform F1 process first, right?

Then complete manufacturing making once approved stamp is received?
FIFY. ;)

And yes, since you posted it online, that would be the proper order of things.
 
We need to get a build party put together.

^ shameless plea to use someone's lathe/tools
 
And in all seriousness, the use of making vs manufacturing makes a difference. While we know what each of us mean when we say manufacture, that’s not what we’re doing.

Makers and Manufacturers have different rules/requirements. The regulations use both terms (and not interchangeably) because they’re not the same.

When you file a Form 1, it’s an Application to Make and Register a Firearm...and is done before the work is done. A manufacturer files a Form 2, a Notice of Firearms Manufactured or Imported...and is done after the fact (by the close of the next business day).
 
Is there a difference in the terms beyond the associated reporting requirements? Like maybe that “make” is personal use and mfr is for resale?


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Is there a difference in the terms beyond the associated reporting requirements? Like maybe that “make” is personal use and mfr is for resale?
I’m not 100% sure of the question.

The forms you use are based on your “standing” with the ATF. If you have a manufacturing 07/02 FFL, you’re a Manufacturer and abide by those laws. If you don’t, you’re a Maker...and follow those laws.

I can make one, then choose to sell it. I just can’t make it with the intent to sell it.
 
Is there a difference in the terms beyond the associated reporting requirements? Like maybe that “make” is personal use and mfr is for resale?


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Think of it this way....

"Uncle Sugar, may I pretty please MAKE a suppressor?" <----- gottta ask first since you're not a licensee.

Vs

"Hey...tax man, we MANUFACTURED these suppressors for you to tax". <---- licensees gotta tell .gov what they already did.
 
Anyone know if those aluminum eBay deals will hold up to supersonic 300blk use in a bolt gun?
 
Anyone know if those aluminum eBay deals will hold up to supersonic 300blk use in a bolt gun?
I haven’t looked other than what’s been listed here, which I though were all ~1” rimfire kits. Do they also have 1.5” kits available? That would be my first concern.

Second, I’d be concerned about the material. I know supersonic 300BLK isn’t equal to 5.56, but it’s a lot closer than subsonic 300BLK. Griffin just released an all aluminum 1.375” OD rimfire can that also says its rated for 5.56. But, the limitations are 5 shots and then it has to cool to ambient temps. 16” minimum barrel length. And you have to use their minimal taper mount instead of direct thread. One of their guys was answering questions on ARF and said:

In one of several initial tests, we had a guy put 250 rounds of 11.5" barrel 5.56mm through a prototype in the white and it was in pretty good shape. He was firing 5-7 rds every 10-15 minutes all day and I went over there and the can was over 400F- exceeding test parameters which were intended to keep the can below 330F. It was turning yellow from heat, and it was holding up. The baffles had a little wear, but it was really minimal wear. The can is more than durable for rimfire use, and is capable in the hunting category on 5.56mm guns. It was 22-250 tested extensively for safety factor. The 7075 is really strong.

So, if you had a guarantee it was 7075, you might be safe to use it on a bolt gun (or semi) in a hunting situation where you were taking 1-2 shots with plenty of downtime in between.

If you were willing to spend more, but way less than a commercial can, you could fill a SS/Ti tube full of formed freeze plugs @ $.69/ea (vs $15-$25 for skirtless cones, plus another couple bucks for every precut spacer...or buy a length of spacer and cut your own).
 
Remembered I had these pics saved...

Note: as mentioned above, the difference in SS vs Ti is the SS was crammed full of formed freeze plug baffles, while the Ti has some spacers installed. The baffles themselves were exactly the same in both styles.

This was a basic test of 5.56 and swapping end caps to see if the smaller hole made much difference:

View attachment 142842

A test with my 12” 6.8:

View attachment 142843

Comparing 55gr 5.56:

View attachment 142844

Comparing subsonic 300BLK:

View attachment 142845

The F1 cans definitely metered a little louder in most instances. But the lack of blowback and the low tone made them pleasant to shoot, sometimes more pleasant than the commercial cans. That led the guys at SS and CA to miss the dB levels by 10+ dB when they guessed what the 300BLK results would be.

That experience is what made me stop really looking at advertised dB readings. Since then I’ve shot cans, and if I liked them, that was enough for me. If I couldn’t shoot them, I talked to people that had...whether they were using meters or not.

Is there a known reason why the SS is consistently quieter than the Ti? Was the outer tube material the only difference in these tests?


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If you were willing to spend more, but way less than a commercial can, you could fill a SS/Ti tube full of formed freeze plugs @ $.69/ea (vs $15-$25 for skirtless cones, plus another couple bucks for every precut spacer...or buy a length of spacer and cut your own).

I can cut tubes no problem (and it saves precalculating the spacer sizes) and let’s assume SS 1.5” tube. Where is a known good quality place that is reasonably priced?


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Is there a known reason why the SS is consistently quieter than the Ti? Was the outer tube material the only difference in these tests?
You quoted the answer. See the “Note” at the very top.

If I wasn’t clear in what I said, let me know and I’ll try to expound.
 
You quoted the answer. See the “Note” at the very top.

If I wasn’t clear in what I said, let me know and I’ll try to expound.

So more baffles is the difference? I didn’t realize that. I take it that means the tube material is irrelevant.

At what point does more baffles take up enough internal volume to work against you instead of for you?


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So more baffles is the difference? I didn’t realize that. I take it that means the tube material is irrelevant.

At what point does more baffles take up enough internal volume to work against you instead of for you?
In this instance, I believe the number of baffles make the difference. There’s no one solution, though. Baffle shape and spacing both have a huge impact, but as non-manufacturers we don’t have the opportunity to test all that out.

The Ti tube was actually slightly bigger ID (.01” or less).

Some of the current designs on the market only have 4-5 baffles. Others have way more. For example, here’s a cutaway of a SiCo Specwar and Saker.

1B7C08F2-6A8C-4057-8F34-4FD8331F1627.jpeg
 
For 22lr what diameter hole works with little risk of being too tight, yet small enough to work effectively? .26?
 
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For 22lr what diameter hole works with little risk of being too tight, yet small enough to work effectively? .26?
I wouldn’t dream of running one that tight. .060” is what most do...and a 9/32 bit gets you .281”

So go bigger than that. Also depends on how you’re making stuff and what the tolerance is. For my FP rifle cans, I opened them up larger than needed, but then at the end cap turned on a lathe and to a tighter bore than the baffles.
 
I haven’t looked other than what’s been listed here, which I though were all ~1” rimfire kits. Do they also have 1.5” kits available? That would be my first concern.

Second, I’d be concerned about the material. I know supersonic 300BLK isn’t equal to 5.56, but it’s a lot closer than subsonic 300BLK. Griffin just released an all aluminum 1.375” OD rimfire can that also says its rated for 5.56. But, the limitations are 5 shots and then it has to cool to ambient temps. 16” minimum barrel length. And you have to use their minimal taper mount instead of direct thread. One of their guys was answering questions on ARF and said:

In one of several initial tests, we had a guy put 250 rounds of 11.5" barrel 5.56mm through a prototype in the white and it was in pretty good shape. He was firing 5-7 rds every 10-15 minutes all day and I went over there and the can was over 400F- exceeding test parameters which were intended to keep the can below 330F. It was turning yellow from heat, and it was holding up. The baffles had a little wear, but it was really minimal wear. The can is more than durable for rimfire use, and is capable in the hunting category on 5.56mm guns. It was 22-250 tested extensively for safety factor. The 7075 is really strong.

So, if you had a guarantee it was 7075, you might be safe to use it on a bolt gun (or semi) in a hunting situation where you were taking 1-2 shots with plenty of downtime in between.

If you were willing to spend more, but way less than a commercial can, you could fill a SS/Ti tube full of formed freeze plugs @ $.69/ea (vs $15-$25 for skirtless cones, plus another couple bucks for every precut spacer...or buy a length of spacer and cut your own).

Looking for a monocore design.
 
As info...looks like there’s an issue with Totality. Somebody on AR15 said there were rumors of a recent visit by an alphabet agency. I’d place my first order with them (three items that showed in stock) on 7/25 and never got a shipment notice. Saw the ARF discussion and sent an email yesterday. Got an “order canceled” email reply today. All it said was:

Hello,

Your order has been cancelled. Let us know if you have any questions.

We hope to see you again soon.

Thanks

Totality Industries
 
Another option for tubes is Apogee Products.

https://apogeeproducts.com/

That’s where my three steel tubes (I think I’ve incorrectly been saying SS, when they’re just carbon steel) came from. I did have a machinist turn them down between the threads, which reduced ~40% of the weight.
 
And just as a heads-up...I’m in discussions with a manufacturer to get three of mine recored with actual baffles instead of freeze plugs. I’ll keep y’all updated with how it goes.
 
For 22lr what diameter hole works with little risk of being too tight, yet small enough to work effectively? .26?

17/64 if you are careful or lucky. Read a thread where a guy went smaller who had the skills to pull it off and everyone else freaked out about it. lol He also seemed clueless about everything but the execution and just went for it. Really depends on how you are doing it and what equipment you have. The more skill and better tools, the more risk you could take on a smaller diameter. Less skill and poor tools I'd lean towards more tolerance and larger hole.

But getting it wrong could mean anything from a baffle skid with little damage, maybe a baffle strike with a baffle and or end cap being toast, to a catastrophic failure with the can being compromised and ruined.
 
Just as a reminder for those using EForms to make your own silencer...

When you get to the line item section for the firearm, do not put your name or your trust name as the manufacturer. That’s what you’d do if filing a paper form.

For EForms, check the radio button for Manufacturer Code instead of using Manufacturer Name. Then input FMI and verify it. That’s a letter “I”, not a number “1”. This will eliminate the delay of your name/trust name not being in their system.

It’s the way they instruct you to do it when creating a firearm from scratch instead of modifying an existing firearm. Same would go for an 80% AR lower, or an AK flat, or anything else that starts as a non-firearm.

Remember, you’re required to create a series number which gets engraved with the other info. It must be made up of Arabic numerals (0-9) and Roman letters (A-Z). It must have a minimum of one numeral...it can be all numerals, or alpha-numeric, just not all letters. And you can’t duplicate a serial number for the same Maker, in case you make more down the road. I kept it simple and used my son’s 3 initials, no hyphen, and started with 001. So my first was similar to ABC001 and my most recent was ABC009.

Model is an optional field. If you don’t want to come up with one, choose N/A from the dropdown. This eliminates one item to engrave, and also is faster than checking the box to enter your own info and making up a new model. (Choosing any of the ones from the dropdown, which is nothing but previously used names, is also faster than creating your own)
 
There are some creative choices to be had in those dropdowns!
 
All mine are N/A.

For those that haven’t done it, checking the box in EForms to input your own data puts you into Pending Research instead of Submitted/In Process. Sometimes it necessary (oddball caliber). Usually takes a day or two to clear it up.
 
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