Solvent trap kits

Working on another one. 4”x1.5” Ti tube. Found some Ti ends that are pretty slick...as they use an AR castle nut wrench to tighten/loosen. This one is going on a 15-22 pistol. Host is still needing to be shipped, but based on these two pics from Magdump it ought to look pretty good. Just a little space between rail and can, and the larger diameter pieces will look better than a typical 1” rimfire can.

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Probably do FPs/VSRs for this one, since it’s 22LR only and I’d prefer to keep the cost down on the internals. Who knows...may get sent off to ECCO sometime down the road, which is another reason to go a less expensive route for now.
 
If so, the customs agents have the cleanest firearms around.
 
Tube came earlier this week. Ends came today...but I think they shipped the wrong one for the threaded adapter. The end cap will thread into both ends of the tube, while the 1/2-28 is too small to thread into either end. Looks like it’s probably the Omega (1-3/8) instead of D-cell (1-7/16). :(

15-22 shipped today
 
I am digging the design, though. Not sure why I’ve never seen anybody else think of this. Maybe I missed it?


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Anyone used armoryden? They’ve got a D cell kit that runs $219. If my math is right though, the wall thickness of their 7075 tubing is 0.17. I wonder if you could turn that down and shave a few ounces off the roughly 31oz weight of their 9” D Cell kit?

nate
 
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tarheelguy said:
It’s a full kit - baffles, tube, threaded caps.

Thinking turn down between threads like @BigWaylon did.

Application would be R700 .308 / 6.8SPC and 9mm. Both fixed mounts.

This:

Solvent Traps, High-Grade Tubes, Parts and Accessories – Armory Den

Solvent Trap is a device that can be attached to the threaded muzzle in order to capture fluids that are used to clean your firearm.
armoryden.com armoryden.com
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That still an absurd weight, especially with an aluminum tube. Wonder if it (the weight) includes both threaded adapters? Like a shipping weight not an assembled weight.
 
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wired said:
You don't want k baffles for a 308
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Ah. Looks like K more for pistol, cone for higher pressure.

I was hoping for a do-all OTS kit I could finish off and Form 1.

No such thing as one size fits all, eh.

Nate
 
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You can use K baffles and I have done it too with 308 but it just won't be as efficient. It'll still work and sound great with subs.
 
BigWaylon said:
That still an absurd weight, especially with an aluminum tube. Wonder if it (the weight) includes both threaded adapters? Like a shipping weight not an assembled weight.
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Maybe it includes the handgun! :)
 
BigWaylon said:
That still an absurd weight, especially with an aluminum tube. Wonder if it (the weight) includes both threaded adapters? Like a shipping weight not an assembled weight.
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I'm piecing one together eyeballing MutedMachineWorks website and I'm at 26.8 ounces before baffles and spacers (D Cell Ti tube, SS end cap, SS fixed 5/8x24 end cap). How do you build one of these in something lightweight?!?

The MMW end caps look like they could be turned down a little thinner and maybe the OD could be turned a hair and I'd be center-drilling the baffles and clipping them as well but still...

nate
 
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tarheelguy said:
I'm piecing one together eyeballing MutedMachineWorks website and I'm at 26.8 ounces before baffles and spacers (D Cell Ti tube, SS end cap, SS fixed 5/8x24 end cap). How do you build one of these in something lightweight?!?

The MMW end caps look like they could be turned down a little thinner and maybe the OD could be turned a hair and I'd be center-drilling the baffles and clipping them as well but still...

nate
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Man, I built a 9” one out of all steel, filled it full of freeze plugs, and it was ~25oz. The 8” was 23oz, the 7” was 21oz. Then I had a 9” Ti tube full of freeze plugs that was 19oz, an 8” that was 17oz, and a 7” that was 15oz.

One thing is to make sure the ends are hollowed out as much as possible. That’s just dead weight.
 
BigWaylon said:
Man, I built a 9” one out of all steel, filled it full of freeze plugs, and it was ~25oz. The 8” was 23oz, the 7” was 21oz. Then I had a 9” Ti tube full of freeze plugs that was 19oz, an 8” that was 17oz, and a 7” that was 15oz.

One thing is to make sure the ends are hollowed out as much as possible. That’s just dead weight.
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...I have so many questions. LOL...

Should I post them up here for everyone to laugh at the FNG Form1 dude or should I PM you and save some dignity? Maybe the dumb questions would help someone else out there...?

And yes, I'm crawling the board and reading everything I can find.

Nate
 
tarheelguy said:
...I have so many questions. LOL...

Should I post them up here for everyone to laugh at the FNG Form1 dude or should I PM you and save some dignity? Maybe the dumb questions would help someone else out there...?

And yes, I'm crawling the board and reading everything I can find.

Nate
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Just ask them. More chance of getting a good answer than if it was left up to me alone. 🤣
 
solventtrapcups.com

D Size Solvent Trap Kit | Complete Solvent Trap with Cups

D size solvent trap kit machined with 7075 aircraft grade anodized aluminum. Knurled end caps, custom spacers and custom solvent trap cups. Shop premium custom made solvent traps.
solventtrapcups.com solventtrapcups.com

Or this,

solventtrapcups.com

D Size Solvent Trap Kit | Complete Solvent Trap with Cups

D size solvent trap kit machined with 7075 aircraft grade anodized aluminum. Knurled end caps, custom spacers and custom solvent trap cups. Shop premium custom made solvent traps.
solventtrapcups.com solventtrapcups.com

Turn OD down a tick. Drill and clip K cups.

I think I'd prefer SS barrel adapter cap over AL.

nate
 
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I just don’t have any experience with that style baffle. I bet @wired or somebody else does.
 
I have several with those K baffles . They work great for PCCs but they do require more complicated machine work than cones do. STC offers a 30% veterans discount. Be warned they are thick and on the heavy side and while theyre great for a PCC the SS baffles arent my first choice for a Browning action pistol
 
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Ok. Still searching OTS / OTC options I could finish off (drill, clip, engrave, etc.)...

Out of stock but what about this design? https://mutedmachineworks.com/product/d-cell-aluminum-solvent-trap-kit-8-in/

Based on what I'm reading on the 'webs, maybe play with the cone spacing and try to squeeze another cone or three in there? Smaller blast chamber, shorter and possibly consistent shorter spacing throughout? This is basically the design I was pondering - simple, serviceable.

Thoughts?

Maybe swap to Ti tubing and run it on both 9mm and .308/6.8 with a barrel adapter?

Nate
 
What if you went shorter on the blast chamber, say 1.5" +/- and reduced the spacing between the cones in the MMW kit above to squeeze 2-3 more cones in. Run it with a direct-thread cap (or booster) on pistols (9mil) and use a non-low profile fixed barrel adapter (al la Liberty Cans - https://libertycans.net/product/fixed-barrel-adapter/) as the primary blast chamber and run it on the .308 / 6.8?

That should give me a solid, multi-caliber can. Yes?

Nate
 
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Sounds like a decent plan.
 
BigWaylon said:
Tube came earlier this week. Ends came today...but I think they shipped the wrong one for the threaded adapter. The end cap will thread into both ends of the tube, while the 1/2-28 is too small to thread into either end. Looks like it’s probably the Omega (1-3/8) instead of D-cell (1-7/16). :(

15-22 shipped today
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Picked up the 15-22 today.

Replacement 1/2-28 came today...and they sent another ASR Tube threaded one instead of D-cell. 😡
 
Still haven’t pulled the trigger but itching to do a kit build soon.

I need one Form1 per NFA device, correct? Or can I list multiple items (couple suppressor kits + an SBR) on a single form and pay for more than one?
 
tarheelguy said:
Still haven’t pulled the trigger but itching to do a kit build soon.

I need one Form1 per NFA device, correct? Or can I list multiple items (couple suppressor kits + an SBR) on a single form and pay for more than one?
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One form per serial number. And every firearm will have its own serial number.

…and good luck finding any kind of kit these days.
 
tarheelguy said:
Still haven’t pulled the trigger but itching to do a kit build soon.

I need one Form1 per NFA device, correct? Or can I list multiple items (couple suppressor kits + an SBR) on a single form and pay for more than one?
Click to expand...

BigWaylon said:
One form per serial number. And every firearm will have its own serial number.

…and good luck finding any kind of kit these days.
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Unfortunately Big Waylon is correct on both counts. I was debating getting a kit, but waiting too long. After the ATF cracked down on them they have dried up.
 
BigWaylon said:
One form per serial number. And every firearm will have its own serial number.

…and good luck finding any kind of kit these days.
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Cups are readily available. Tubes are readily available. End caps are readily available. Theres a few holdouts selling kits but parts can be cobbled together easier.
 
wired said:
Cups are readily available. Tubes are readily available. End caps are readily available. Theres a few holdouts selling kits but parts can be cobbled together easier.
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From some of the research I have done, the ATF will not approve a Form1 for a suppressor unless there is proof that it is being made from raw stock.
 
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I was under the impression that you could state you “did not have and did not intend to purchase any parts until approval was received.” Several folks online have said you can literally take a picture of that statement on a white page and upload that.

My plan was to file for the Form1 including provide a serial number to be engraved on the finished item (SBR, suppressor) stating I don’t have parts in hand yet and then order my parts and complete the build.

Nate
 
I’m looking at these suppliers at the moment:

Armoryden (looks to be cheapie stuff but good enough?)

Quietbore (pricy but looks decent…)

MutedMachineWorks (pricy but looks like quality stuff…)
 
tarheelguy said:
I’m looking at these suppliers at the moment:

Armoryden (looks to be cheapie stuff but good enough?)

Quietbore (pricy but looks decent…)

MutedMachineWorks (pricy but looks like quality stuff…)
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Quiet bore stopped selling parts. The quiet bore stuff really wasn't much good anyway
 
wired said:
Quiet bore stopped selling parts. The quiet bore stuff really wasn't much good anyway
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What about QB wasn’t much good? Fitment or function? You’re probably right about not selling parts - looks like most all parts are out of stock.

Design wise, I’m leaning towards a skirted Kcup or cone design so I don’t have to trim spacers. If anything I would trim down the blast chamber and squeeze another cup / cone into the tube. Does a machined cone work better than a pressed cone?

MMW has some slick looking cones but they’re $20-25 apiece. Armoryden stuff looks pressed vs machined but is a tick cheaper and they’re full kits are much cheaper.

Inclination is a 7-9”L x 1.25-1.5”D kit from Armoryden, add another skirted cone and trim down the blast chamber spacer accordingly. Drill and clip.

Nate
 
tarheelguy said:
What about QB wasn’t much good? Fitment or function? You’re probably right about not selling parts - looks like most all parts are out of stock.

Design wise, I’m leaning towards a skirted Kcup or cone design so I don’t have to trim spacers. If anything I would trim down the blast chamber and squeeze another cup / cone into the tube. Does a machined cone work better than a pressed cone?

MMW has some slick looking cones but they’re $20-25 apiece. Armoryden stuff looks pressed vs machined but is a tick cheaper and they’re full kits are much cheaper.

Inclination is a 7-9”L x 1.25-1.5”D kit from Armoryden, add another skirted cone and trim down the blast chamber spacer accordingly. Drill and clip.

Nate
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The pressed stuff is OK up to maybe 9mm use. Its too thin and weak for rifle use. 50-60 degree cones are your best bet. Yeah, 20-25 a baffle is about right these days. I can buy finished machined, bored and clipped baffles for 15 a piece in bulk which is what they do minus the bore job so its not like theyre making a tonof money on them. I have several machined cone cans I do full auto blasts through with short barrels and they hold up fine.

K baffles really dont work well on anything. Get enough of them in a huge can and they'll work OK on 9mm but you could do better in a smaller package with clipped cones. The QB 22 K baffles are hot garbage. I have one I filled with those things and its embarrassingly loud.
 
wired said:
The pressed stuff is OK up to maybe 9mm use. Its too thin and weak for rifle use. 50-60 degree cones are your best bet. Yeah, 20-25 a baffle is about right these days. I can buy finished machined, bored and clipped baffles for 15 a piece in bulk which is what they do minus the bore job so its not like theyre making a tonof money on them. I have several machined cone cans I do full auto blasts through with short barrels and they hold up fine.

K baffles really dont work well on anything. Get enough of them in a huge can and they'll work OK on 9mm but you could do better in a smaller package with clipped cones. The QB 22 K baffles are hot garbage. I have one I filled with those things and its embarrassingly loud.
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Very helpful. Good to know on the pressed vs machined cone and your experience with the K baffles. Thanks a ton.

So is the idea to maximize the number of cones, minimize spacing between them, minimize blast chamber and trade off on weight and length? I know YMMV depending on host, ammo, moon phase and how you hold your mouth, etc. but is there a general rule(s) of thumb?

What about using a muzzle brake like a CherryBomb and reducing the blast chamber length to squeeze more VSR / cones into the stack?

SPC has pretty cones but they’re skirtless so would need spacers - doable but more machine work.

Solventtrapsdirect looks to have pretty much what I had in mind - machined cones w skirts. Their tube and end kits look a bit pricey.
 
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