Storm shelter/Safe Room

Love2shoot

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So Im thinking of building a safe room to house my guns on a wall, also to be a storm shelter if its ever needed. I have decided on a safe style door that opens inward, but as for the structure thats where my question is.

Im thinking cinder blocks anchored into the slab with rebar and then filled concrete into the block cells with rebar running through. Then the rebar running up and over into the roof which would be a poured 6 inch slab with rebar throughout. Ventilation provided by 2 inch holes through as outlines by FEMA. My question is if the room was 8x10x8h any idea what that masonry might cost?
Any critiques or suggestions to this plan?
 
Just to clarify, entire structure is above ground?
 
I'm interested in doing a project like this in the future. Any good websites to go along with the suggestions the OP requested?
 
So Im thinking of building a safe room to house my guns on a wall, also to be a storm shelter if its ever needed. I have decided on a safe style door that opens inward, but as for the structure thats where my question is.

Im thinking cinder blocks anchored into the slab with rebar and then filled concrete into the block cells with rebar running through. Then the rebar running up and over into the roof which would be a poured 6 inch slab with rebar throughout. Ventilation provided by 2 inch holes through as outlines by FEMA. My question is if the room was 8x10x8h any idea what that masonry might cost?
Any critiques or suggestions to this plan?

Why open inward?
 
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Tooooo small ... 10x12 minimum ... sit down with a simple piece of graph paper for scale and cut out little pieces to represent cabinet(s), table(s), chairs/cots and see just how quickly the space fills up ... by the time you put any type of cabinets and a couple chairs along with “stuff” an 8x10 will be cramped for just 2 people. I suggest you get bids on various sizes but the cost per square foot will decrease some as you go larger ... it will be more of course but do it right the first time.
 
@Me. Also if using as a true safe room, door stops (wedges) on an "in" opening door gives you a mechanical advantage. I'm liking this inward door idea more and more....
 
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Tree falls on your shelter, or Dorothy’s house falls on it, you’ll wish it opened inward.

That’s my guess.

Correct, this particular one would go in my house, and if the storm was bad enough and the house fell apart the door inward would allow exit vs pushing the door out blocked by fallen debris.
 
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Do you work in an office cube?
If so get your family and pets and sit in your cube for 8 hours.

Think BIGGER!
 
So Im thinking of building a safe room to house my guns on a wall, also to be a storm shelter if its ever needed. I have decided on a safe style door that opens inward, but as for the structure thats where my question is.

Im thinking cinder blocks anchored into the slab with rebar and then filled concrete into the block cells with rebar running through. Then the rebar running up and over into the roof which would be a poured 6 inch slab with rebar throughout. Ventilation provided by 2 inch holes through as outlines by FEMA. My question is if the room was 8x10x8h any idea what that masonry might cost?
Any critiques or suggestions to this plan?
I helped a neighbor in Wyoming (circuit judge) build a safe room. It was 30x40. Overkill, sure, but it's better to be too big than too small
 
So aside from a size perspective, does the construction plan sound solid? I guess theres not much to guess about cost wise without calling around and getting some estimates.
 
So aside from a size perspective, does the construction plan sound solid? I guess theres not much to guess about cost wise without calling around and getting some estimates.
That sounds like what you want. I'd recommend doing it yourself. This judge was 40- something and paid me at 18 y.o to do his heavy lifting. We did a quality build. Only other thing he really had to pay for were materials and forklift to move the safe door. You can cut a lot of costs doing it yourself
 
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No where near big enough, you said yourself all your guns were going in it, if so that leaves no room for you much less loved ones and provisions.
 
I would also strongly suggest make sure you plumb in enough power conduit and such because once the concrete cures and with rebar boring any hole will be a PITA!
 
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Question are you thinking of putting in your existing house? If not why not build it like a storm celler below ground? I would think block work will be biggest expense.
 
So aside from a size perspective, does the construction plan sound solid? I guess theres not much to guess about cost wise without calling around and getting some estimates.
I would want an outside filtered air source.
Battery powered in case you all were inside and the house caught fire you would need a GOOD source of fresh air.
 
A sprinkler system is expensive, but could you rig a set of manual sprinklers connected to a valve in the room? Last thing I’d want is to be locked in a room during a fire and bake.
 
might want to plumb it as well....a honey bucket might stink up that space right quick, maybe a curtain for privacy.
 
I'll throw in my $.02 here, redundancy will be golden, possibly another exit even if it is a hole in the wall (that could be securely locked from the inside - 1/2" plate?) another auxiliary fresh air source. Put plenty of pvc lines in the slab, if you are pouring it, to add things later on if needed, ie. Waste water, plumbing, data cables, ect. And don't forget provisions to keep it dry, and possibly climate controlled should you want to throw some food in there. Just like building any other structure it is likely you'll say - well I wish I would have added another ________ in there...
 
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I don't know exactly how cheap residential masonry is, but I would think if you figured $7/block (1.125 block/sqft) you would cover the masonry. Grout fill the block should be about $300/cuyd and there's roughly .24 cf per block. Not many, so price will be more. Concrete shouldn't run you $250-$300 per cuyd.

I would go with a 8" thick ceiling structure just to be safe. Like they said, if you want it in there, better do it before you fill the block with grout.

I like the idea. I would do the same thing if I ever build another house.
 
What if you just stacked up the cement blocks without mortar joints? If you are going to fill with concrete and rebar, that would hold them together.
You can do it in small sections and fill as you go, so they stay aligned. Stack 4 courses, cut rebar 5 courses high, fill to 3 1/2 courses with concrete. That way the overlap on the short sections on rebar will continue the strength. Something you can do yourself and save $$$
 
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