Suggestions for Equip. & Supplies
- Thread starter J.R Priddy
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A basic press, as in single stage, to stage.
Rock Chucker (RCBS) is what I started with.
A powder scale.
I used their digital scale and dispenser combo. a little more expensive than the scale alone, but really helps with consistent measuring.
A set of dies for each caliber you want to reload.
A brass polisher, and polishing fluid and media.
Case trimmer
Materials- powder, primers, cases, bullets
Rock Chucker (RCBS) is what I started with.
A powder scale.
I used their digital scale and dispenser combo. a little more expensive than the scale alone, but really helps with consistent measuring.
A set of dies for each caliber you want to reload.
A brass polisher, and polishing fluid and media.
Case trimmer
Materials- powder, primers, cases, bullets
This.
Key questions that need to be answered.
FatboyFlash
Senior Member
Dillon 1100 with Mr bullet feeder
10k cases
32lbs powder
20k projectiles
20k primers
Tumbler
Tumbler media
Bullet puller
Scale
Lube
2nd job
This would be a good start
10k cases
32lbs powder
20k projectiles
20k primers
Tumbler
Tumbler media
Bullet puller
Scale
Lube
2nd job
This would be a good start
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Exactly.
I usually recommend starting out with a Lee Classic Turret press, unless you are only interested in low volume precision rifle loads, in which case I recommend getting a top quality single-stage press to start with. Even if you are planning to do high volume loading later (which a progressive press is best for) you will always find a use for a second press, and the LCT is only a little over $100. I started with a Dillon 550 and I don’t regret that, but I had a mentor with a 550 to get me started. Still, I ended up going through a couple of single-stage presses before I got the LCT, and I use that as much as I do my Dillon. I do all my volume semi-auto pistol calibers on the Dillon, but I do everything else on the LCT.
I can crank out 200 rounds per hour on the LCT, and a little over 400 rounds per hour on the Dillon. I could go faster, but I am not trying to set any records, just cranking out at a comfortable rate for me.
But the very first thing to buy is a good manual. The Lyman manual is the one I recommend. Read it a couple of times, then come back for more questions.
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What are you wanting to load?
Many folks will say go with the Rock Chucker kit.
Many folks will say go with the Rock Chucker kit.
9mm, 40, 357mag, 38 those are the ones I shoot the most. Not looking to setup anything extravagant just a basic setup. I've watched multiple tutorial videos just want to get some insight from people I can actually talk to and learn from.
I think you might be a little light on those primers and projectiles.
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Get a Dillon 550 unless your planning on going through 10k a year. It will be plenty of press without overkill and you can also load rifle rounds if you ever decide too.
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Buy "The ABCs of Reloading" & read it before doing anything else.
The Lee Classic Turret is a solid choice. I like mine a bunch & it won't break the bank.
Midway carries booklets by Gun-Guides & Load books USA that compile most mfr's load data for a specific chambering into one convenient place. Same with Lee's "Modern Reloading 2nd edition", only it has data for about every cartridge under the sun.
The Lee Classic Turret is a solid choice. I like mine a bunch & it won't break the bank.
Midway carries booklets by Gun-Guides & Load books USA that compile most mfr's load data for a specific chambering into one convenient place. Same with Lee's "Modern Reloading 2nd edition", only it has data for about every cartridge under the sun.
Straight walled pistol rounds, I think I'd go progressive. 550, 650, LnL, and dies, carbide or whatever Hornady uses TiN maybe. And you'll need a scale, and a tumbler or ultrasonic to clean brass. Calipers are dang nice if not required. And probably a book.
There's a lot of powders that work well in all those.
There's a lot of powders that work well in all those.
Lots of folks will say to start with a single stage, but for those straight wall pistol cases I really enjoyed learning on a used Dillon Square Deal B and the resale value is good. There are some downsides, no brass or bullet feeders, proprietary dies, and the working area can be pretty tight. Having added a second 650 I might be willing to sell my SDB and the dies for the calibers you care about if you happen to be in the area. I think they usually sell for about 70% of new, but I can tighten that up if you are interested.
This plus some powder, primers and boolits will get you going on a budget:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013020237
If you're not on a tight budget to start, look at RCBS. You'll end up there eventually.
If the Snap-on man knows where you live, Dillon is for you.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013020237
If you're not on a tight budget to start, look at RCBS. You'll end up there eventually.
If the Snap-on man knows where you live, Dillon is for you.
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Agreed. I started with an LCT and still use it despite having 2 progressives. Caliber changes are super fast & easy and pretty cheap.
And I’ll shamelessly plug my extra Lee Classic Turret Deluxe Kit in the BST, $75 cheaper than midway, no tax, plus a bullet puller for those inevitable errors.
https://www.carolinafirearmsforum.com/index.php?threads/lee-classic-turret-kit-dies.59876/
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Ikarus1
Avtomat Krishna-kov
get the LCT...unless you shoot daily or competitions every weekend, 150rds per session will keep you in pistol ammo throughout this little bump in demand. When 9mm and other common calibers get cheap again, you'll start buying ammo anyhow. I would love a Dillon XL1050 just to run 9mm but I would run it once a month and be done for a while.
Where are you located (NC is vague)? Find a local loader to observe a bit.
I started with a Dillon 550, and it’s still the only press I’ve used in 20 years. Starting with a single stage is wisest. IMO the next wisest choice would be the RCBS turret, Lee Classic Turret.
Namerifrats
Well-Known Member
I'd go with a turret or single stage first. Forget a progressive early on. Too easy to miss a case failing to get charged, etc. Never get in the habit of trusting a powder measure or other device to properly charge your cases without a visual inspection of each case prior to seating a bullet. Lyman reloading manual is a good book, so is the ABCs of Modern Reloading. Read, read, then read some more. Pistol calibers are easier to load than rifle.....less steps, no need for case lube, trimming is rare, etc. Never get too comfortable with the process and become complacent, or use load data that Joe Blow on the internet told you was his pet load. Always double check behind yourself if you value your fingers, hands, eyes, and firearms. It's a fun and rewarding side of the hobby, and can even save you money after a while. Have fun, but stay safe and respect the basic rules.
I’ll say if I were to start reloading today, I’d buy a used 550. I love my LCT and don’t think I’ll be selling my main one anytime soon but I like the fact that the 550 is a progressive, so if you want higher volume you can do it while still having the safety element (and flexibility) of manual indexing. It is significantly more expensive but Dillon stuff doesn’t lose much value and the quality is top notch.
Is the lube for the cases or for when you get the credit card statement?
THAT splains why I started with a Dillon 550!
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I’ve had mine since ‘99. The only issue I’ve had is a primer bar sticking, called Dillon for tech support, they pointed me to the issue. Then asked what color the 4 primer and powder bars were, the newer ones were a different coating. In a couple days new bars arrived, no charge. I called when I misplaced a low primer alarm piece, they mailed a new one, no charge, along with a misc parts kit.
Started with the LCT. Still use it. Then a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP. Then a brother in law bequeathed me his SDB. I put the Hornady on a shelf and do most of my reloading on the SDB. Nothing wrong with the Hornady. I just don't need all the bells and whistles. I only load hand gun rounds.
You stated you plan to load "9mm, 40, 357mag, 38 those are the ones I shoot the most." Unless you shoot competition, the LCT should be ideal. For a little more speed, the Dillon SDB. You can load rifle cartridges with the LCT. These are the only presses that I have any experience with, so I have no comment on other vendors, or models.
Just so you know, starting from scratch can cost you more than anticipated! As I have found out.
You stated you plan to load "9mm, 40, 357mag, 38 those are the ones I shoot the most." Unless you shoot competition, the LCT should be ideal. For a little more speed, the Dillon SDB. You can load rifle cartridges with the LCT. These are the only presses that I have any experience with, so I have no comment on other vendors, or models.
Just so you know, starting from scratch can cost you more than anticipated! As I have found out.
backwoodsshooter
there’s always a method to the madness
Single stage to learn on. I started with a Lee press. Moved to a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP, bought a Lyman Single stage, then got a Dillon Square B.
Im gonna add a 750b and a turret press eventually
Im gonna add a 750b and a turret press eventually
Yeah I'm not going to be shooting comp. or anything just
Im in Reidsville
RCBS Rockchucker to start on. If you ever want to make really good rifle ammo you will be set. It's a really great heavy press.
Buy a kit to get started. Remember. Buy once, cry once.
If you start down this road, twenty years from now you will still be buying odds and ins to supplement your set up.
Once you start then there is bullet casting and the obsession gets worse.
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Buy a kit to get started. Remember. Buy once, cry once.
If you start down this road, twenty years from now you will still be buying odds and ins to supplement your set up.
Once you start then there is bullet casting and the obsession gets worse.
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Just about any press mentioned is good, Dillon, RCBS, Hornady or Lee.
To me, the question is, how much do you want to spend to see if you really want to reload.
When I bought my first press, I did nothing but shoot in the back yard and had no idea that I would ever start shooting at local matches. I wish I had started with a Dillon, because thats where I’m at now. YMMV
To me, the question is, how much do you want to spend to see if you really want to reload.
When I bought my first press, I did nothing but shoot in the back yard and had no idea that I would ever start shooting at local matches. I wish I had started with a Dillon, because thats where I’m at now. YMMV
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A basic press, as in single stage, to stage.
Rock Chucker (RCBS) is what I started with.
A powder scale.
I used their digital scale and dispenser combo. a little more expensive than the scale alone, but really helps with consistent measuring.
A set of dies for each caliber you want to reload.
A brass polisher, and polishing fluid and media.
Case trimmer
Materials- powder, primers, cases, bullets[/QUOTE]
I started the same way only I used the beam scale for several years before I upgraded to a RCBS Charge master.
Rock Chucker (RCBS) is what I started with.
A powder scale.
I used their digital scale and dispenser combo. a little more expensive than the scale alone, but really helps with consistent measuring.
A set of dies for each caliber you want to reload.
A brass polisher, and polishing fluid and media.
Case trimmer
Materials- powder, primers, cases, bullets[/QUOTE]
I started the same way only I used the beam scale for several years before I upgraded to a RCBS Charge master.
scratchmark
Well-Known Member
I do everything single stage, one at a time. each shot should count so my ammo needs to be up to it. It may take me longer than most but my face, gun and intended target are worth it. I load for approximately 40 different calibers and load at least an hour a day because I LOVE IT. Get SEVERAL different manuals and compare loads between them and you'll see alot of differences so be careful. I generally start with powder that gives the highest velocity with the least pressures. You can get caught up in trying to get the fastest round but 20fps doesnt mean much if you're stressing your gun out. My part i dislike the most is trimming brass, so get a good trimmer and it'll make it less of a chore.
As far as equiptment, get the best you can afford. Cheap may seem good because you may not find reloading beneficial and want to sell what you bought, but no one else wants to buy cheap made stuff. The cost savings will come in the long run, especially for calibers where ammo is expensive. Plus, if you have any wildcats, then reloading is the only way you'll get ammo. I have several. Good luck, and beware, its highly addictive.
As far as equiptment, get the best you can afford. Cheap may seem good because you may not find reloading beneficial and want to sell what you bought, but no one else wants to buy cheap made stuff. The cost savings will come in the long run, especially for calibers where ammo is expensive. Plus, if you have any wildcats, then reloading is the only way you'll get ammo. I have several. Good luck, and beware, its highly addictive.
Go single stage first until you get really familiar with the entire process, both straight wall cartridges and "bottleneck".
A word here on equipment quality and at the risk of angering the drinkers of the blue koolaide. Lee equipment is cheap. It's built to a price point. It is somewhat functional. It can make decent ammo. It is NOT the best available by far. I do have some Lee stuff but it's a case of knowing what from their product line works. Much better stuff- RCBS, Hornady, Forster, Redding, Dillon. I've used all of them, have stuff from all of them. Each company has products that are outstanding compared to the others. Get into progressive presses and it's a Ford v Chevy world. I've used both Hornady and Dillon, like them both but I'd go with Hornady for one very big reason- Dillon's marketing model means there are virtually NO stocking dealers anywhere. I know of ONE in NC. Hornady stuff is much more available. Not saying Dillon stuff isn't good or their customer service isn't good, but you will nearly always be waiting for stuff to come in the mail v going to the local reloading supplier and getting it off the shelf. That said, all progressive presses have their quirks and you have to learn that for whatever you get.
Now on to a very, very important point. LEARN as much as you can before buying anything. Get a reloading manual hardcopy, read it cover to cover. Utoob is a goto for many these days, but I still strongly recommend a hard copy manual with reload data. I can't tell you how many people I see on a couple fB reloading groups I'm in asking for data. GET THE D@MN BOOK!! If you're hanging out on Utoob, spend the time to watch the Sniper101 series by Matt Tibor. It's not how to crawl around in the weeds and shoot, it's a near doctoral level information set on nearly everything needed to learn to shoot well at a distance and it does cover internal and external ballistics both of which are directly related to reloading and reloading techniques.
A word here on equipment quality and at the risk of angering the drinkers of the blue koolaide. Lee equipment is cheap. It's built to a price point. It is somewhat functional. It can make decent ammo. It is NOT the best available by far. I do have some Lee stuff but it's a case of knowing what from their product line works. Much better stuff- RCBS, Hornady, Forster, Redding, Dillon. I've used all of them, have stuff from all of them. Each company has products that are outstanding compared to the others. Get into progressive presses and it's a Ford v Chevy world. I've used both Hornady and Dillon, like them both but I'd go with Hornady for one very big reason- Dillon's marketing model means there are virtually NO stocking dealers anywhere. I know of ONE in NC. Hornady stuff is much more available. Not saying Dillon stuff isn't good or their customer service isn't good, but you will nearly always be waiting for stuff to come in the mail v going to the local reloading supplier and getting it off the shelf. That said, all progressive presses have their quirks and you have to learn that for whatever you get.
Now on to a very, very important point. LEARN as much as you can before buying anything. Get a reloading manual hardcopy, read it cover to cover. Utoob is a goto for many these days, but I still strongly recommend a hard copy manual with reload data. I can't tell you how many people I see on a couple fB reloading groups I'm in asking for data. GET THE D@MN BOOK!! If you're hanging out on Utoob, spend the time to watch the Sniper101 series by Matt Tibor. It's not how to crawl around in the weeds and shoot, it's a near doctoral level information set on nearly everything needed to learn to shoot well at a distance and it does cover internal and external ballistics both of which are directly related to reloading and reloading techniques.
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What are your @J.R Priddy with reloading? Do you want to load 1000s of rounds every week? Just a couple of 100 a month? How much do you want to invest in equipment? Do you have room for a bigger progressive press?
I started reloading about 25 years ago one a cheap lee single stage. It was all I could afford and I reloaded about 200 rounds a week in both rifle and pistol caliber. I have moved on from that press now that I have more room but I learned a lot on that press and reloaded 1000s of rounds over the years on it too.
It's all about how much you will be reloading and how much you want to invest. Decide those two and it will help narrow down your choices.
I started reloading about 25 years ago one a cheap lee single stage. It was all I could afford and I reloaded about 200 rounds a week in both rifle and pistol caliber. I have moved on from that press now that I have more room but I learned a lot on that press and reloaded 1000s of rounds over the years on it too.
It's all about how much you will be reloading and how much you want to invest. Decide those two and it will help narrow down your choices.
Yes, the Lee equipment is inexpensive. Some of it is downright cheap. I bought a Lee Challenger kit, and I would not recommend that, but it is a lot better than the C press. If I were to recommend a good quality starter single-stage press, it would be the Lee Classic Cast non-breechlock version - that is a solid, heavy duty press. And it handles spent primers better than the Rock Chucker.
The Classic Turret press is what I would describe as their mid-grade level. Plus, there is nothing else on the market like it, with the auto-index feature. The really nice thing about the LCT is the low cost for a turret (about $12.00). I use a mixture of RCBS, Redding, 21st Century, and Lee dies in them, and have probably 20 turrets ready to pop out for caliber changes. I don't know of any other turret press that the turrets are as easy, or inexpensive, to swap.
I use what works for me. I have a couple of Dillon 550 toolheads with Lee dies, some have a mixture of dies from different companies. I even have a couple of Dillon toolheads with Lee powder-thru dies and powder dispensers installed.
I've had my Dillon SDB for about 30 years. Best money I've ever spent. It's set up now as I'm reloading cause the COVID thing. It's a bit of a drive but I'd be happy to give you a demo as long as you promise not to hug me after seeing how wonderful this machine works .
IM a big fan of Dillion and have been for the past 30 years. Their products are pricey and I will leave it at that. If your looking into reloading just to save money, the Dillion website has a great cost calculator. This calculator will give you how many months and rounds it will take before you actually start saving money.
Since I shoot 9mm, I used their calculator and used prices of primers, heads and powder at pre Corona costs including new store bought prices. My results might differ them someone elses because I dont have to pay for my brass. I shooting in competitions and most folks dont reload, so I pick it all up. I did not calculate the total cost of all the equipment like case cleaners, powder scales ect ect, just the cost of a new Dillion Square deal with no bells or whistles.
This is what I came up with and its comparable ammo since I use full metal jacket heads that do cost more then the alternatives.
Factory ammo costs .18 per round
My reloaded ammo costs me .13 per round.
It will take me 9180 rounds to reach the break even point.
It will take me 23 months of shooting 400 rounds per month, which is light for me to reach the break even point.
Hope this helps in your decision.
Since I shoot 9mm, I used their calculator and used prices of primers, heads and powder at pre Corona costs including new store bought prices. My results might differ them someone elses because I dont have to pay for my brass. I shooting in competitions and most folks dont reload, so I pick it all up. I did not calculate the total cost of all the equipment like case cleaners, powder scales ect ect, just the cost of a new Dillion Square deal with no bells or whistles.
This is what I came up with and its comparable ammo since I use full metal jacket heads that do cost more then the alternatives.
Factory ammo costs .18 per round
My reloaded ammo costs me .13 per round.
It will take me 9180 rounds to reach the break even point.
It will take me 23 months of shooting 400 rounds per month, which is light for me to reach the break even point.
Hope this helps in your decision.
I ordered a couple of the books that ya'll have recommended. I knew I could get some solid info here thanks. I'm probably going to go with the turret press to start with as I probably in the avg month will shoot 2-400rnds.
I started on a Lee turret press it is a great way to start!
I don’t think anyone can argue against that path. Knowledge is more important than the equipment and you seem to understand that already. Good luck!