Super thin (1/8" max thickness) suppressor cover recommendations?

surrealone

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So, I added a T.REX ARMS Lightbar scout mount to one of my pistols (dedicated night gun) to eliminate suppressor shadow and, as I feared, the space between my SilencerCo Omega (1.56" diameter) and the Lightbar is too small to squeeze my Armageddon Gear suppressor cover in-between. My Cole-Tac cover won't fit, either. Both appear to need at least 1/4" (0.250in) of space, but by my best measurement I've only got 4mm (0.15748in) to work with. If I can find a suppressor cover that's only 1/8" (0.125in) thick, it should, in theory, fit ... provided I've measured properly.

Note: That 1/8" thickness needs to be total thickness (i.e. overall outside diameter, including any fastening mechanisms such as shock cord or velcro).

Any suggestions? Please help!
 

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1) What is that?
2) Max temp rating?
3) Any idea of thickness at the widest points (the bumps) from one side to the other?
Looks like a kitchen hot pad. I have used one with my omega for removal after firing since I can't seem to keep covers rom falling off.
 
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Do you need it for removal or to keep from burning yourself while moving between positions? For removal, I use this:

 
Do you need it for removal or to keep from burning yourself while moving between positions? For removal, I use this:

Ideally, both, in part because I'm lazy (so I'd like a cover I can leave on as the suppressor moves from host to host) and in part because at night I am (we all are?) much more prone to burning myself, melting something, etc. due to a hot suppressor accidentally touching something it shouldn't.

The Grippy Thing is potentially viable for removal in the event that I can't come up with a solution for my desired application. I had forgotten about it, so thanks for refreshing my memory! A hot pad would work just fine, too... and is far less expensive, so I'd probably go that route in such a scenario.


View attachment 391125Could you modify the mount? Say, take 1/16” - 1/8” off the area highlighted in yellow?

Probably not. Core to this is that in the image you provided, to the left of each of the silver screw holes you see on the light's 'feet' ... are countersunk screws going from left to right (up into the light's 'feet') when looking at the image we're working with in this thread.

Since your proposed yellow cutout removes material across both countersunk screw locations, I'd be inclined to think such material removal might weaken the already-thin points where the light attaches to the mount -- not good for a light that's prone to getting abused in the dark on barricades, branches, etc.

Good idea, though.
 
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If you need to use it at night the odds that it gets hot are low and even if it does, getting a little burn won’t be an issue.

As a range toy just get a silicone hot pad to grab it when needed.
I tend to agree with you. Still, 2nd degree burns on my skin don't heal as quickly these days as they did in my 20's ... so if I can preclude them, I'd like to!
 
Are you coming to the Night Ops Run-n-Gun at @VOD Tactical next month?
Maybe. Depends on when, as it's gun season for deer and this is the time of year I live in a treestand on weekends.

EDIT: I just checked -- looks like it's every 4th Saturday, so that's a negative on going, for me. (Blackpowder season commences this Sat where I live, and the freezer requires meat!)
 
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Called Cole-Tac to see if they had anything thin enough. Spoke to a guy named Ty who asked me to send photos and dimensions and he'd see what they can do. I am hopeful.

Still open to suggestions, too ... and thankful to those suggested in the event I have to run my can naked on this firearm.
 
Called Cole-Tac to see if they had anything thin enough. Spoke to a guy named Ty who asked me to send photos and dimensions and he'd see what they can do. I am hopeful.

Still open to suggestions, too ... and thankful to those suggested in the event I have to run my can naked on this firearm.

I think the key is the flashlight mount.

take it off, wrap the can and reinstall the light, the cover might compress enough to work. If not, go get some washers ad longer screws and make a shim.
 
That's doable. However, it defeats the purpose of using an ASR mount for quick disconnect/removal of the can -- so I'm not prone to going that route, as I invested heavily in QD muzzle devices to allow me to easily move my cans between rifles.


After some research today, I'm not finding anything thin enough, so I either live with it, or I change out the M-LOK Lightbar mount for a picatinny Lightbar ... and attach the picatinny Lightbar to the handguard by way of a 3-slot, low profile picatinny rail added at 3 o'clock. Some quick math suggests it would buy me another 0.27in bump outward … to add to the 0.157in (i.e. 4mm) space that’s already present. That’s 0.427in, which is just under 7/16 inch – plenty for the suppressor covers I have without pushing the light so far away from the suppressor that it leaves the Goldilocks zone.

I'm not thrilled with the idea as it introduces more failure points in the mounting approach, but as I'm not finding 1/8" thick suppressor covers, it's the direction in which I'm presently leaning.

Anyone near Roxboro, NC looking for a gently-used (mounted once, never take outside!) T.Rex Arms M-LOK Lightbar? 😐
 
Nice idea! I had no idea those existed, and I'm 100% sure that's workable (i.e. make a slit where the Lightbar is located). I don't know how long the cover would hold up, but at $35-$55 to try it, it's financially feasible. Unfortunately they have nothing in stock. 😢
 
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Bowers cans/covers are popular on FA guns, so I'd be confident you're not going to harm them with a semi.
 
Nice idea! I had no idea those existed, and I'm 100% sure that's workable (i.e. make a slit where the Lightbar is located). I don't know how long the cover would hold up, but at $35-$55 to try it, it's financially feasible. Unfortunately they have nothing in stock. 😢
There may be other silicone socks or liners but that was the first to come to mind.
 
 

I ordered a couple of these, two were ~$61. They’re coming from New Zealand so no telling how long it’ll take. Cant go wrong for sixty bucks.
 
Following up to provide closure for those who provided input ... but to also share the results of my research.

Things learned along the way:
  • I couldn't find anything thin enough.
  • Even mirage covers were a minimum of 3/8" thick at the widest point (1/4" thick at non-lacing/seam location).
  • My (short duration, bursty, during training type situations) RoF on this gun will realistically require a high-temp cover, not just a mirage cover.
  • High temp covers tend to be at least 1/2" thick or more when measured from inside the cover at their widest points (including any/all lacing and the like)
  • Any cover with an overlap at the seam gets even wider at the widest point.
  • Switching from a MLOK T.Rex Arms Lightbar to a pic-rail T.Rex Arms Lightbar mount atop an Arisaka Defense low profile 3-Slot pic-rail doubled my working space between suppressor body and lightbar mount from 4mm (0.15748in) to 8mm (.314961 in).
  • Switching out the Arisaka Defense low profile pic rail for a substantially cheaper standard profile Magpul aluminum 3-slot pic-rail tripled my working space between suppressor body and lightbar mount ... from 4mm (0.15748in) to 12mm (.472441in).

Now for potentially useful data to another who goes down this rabbit hole:
  • Armageddon Gear Suppressor Covers:
  • -----> Original Mirage Cover: 1/4" thick cover body | 3/8" thick at lacing/seam
  • -----> High-Temp Cover: 3/8" thick cover body | 1/2" thick at lacing/seam
  • Rifles Only Skinny Cover: 1/4" thick cover body | 3/4" thick at seam overlap and lacing
  • Rifles Only Heat Abatement Device (HAD): 5/8" thick cover body | 7/8" thick at seam overlap and lacing
  • Burn Proof Gear Suppressor Covers: Ruled out due to lacing requirements, as lightbar and light placement makes lacing these nearly impossible to do quickly
  • Cole-Tac Suppressor Covers: Ruled out due to use of hook/loop material that melts if a standard mirage cover is used AND because high RoF tends to result in covers slipping forward due to retention straps merely circumscribing the suppressor body
  • SilencerCo Suppressor Covers: Ruled out for same reason as Cole-Tac suppressor covers; Cole-Tac -makes- the SilencerCo suppressor covers for SilencerCo as I understand it.
  • Various slip-on Suppressor Covers (some noted in thread): Ruled out due to unknown temp thresholds, difficulty getting on/off suppressor sans lubricating agent, etc.

The above all added up to inform my final approach, which is to keep the Magpul pic-rail and pic-rail T.Rex Arms Lightbar installed to yield 12mm aka .472441in of working space between the suppressor body and the lightbar ... and to order an Armageddon Gear high-temp cover (just pulled the trigger) -- which I'll install in a position that keeps the lacing/seam away from the Lightbar. It is the thinnest of the suppressor covers for which I could find destructive testing ... and I own a few mirage covers from them already and know the quality is top notch.

The above may not be the approach others go with, but perhaps the raw data will help someone in the future...

Surreal

P.S. 12mm working space per the configuration I'm going with is shown in the below pic.
20211109_203237.jpg
 
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I ordered a couple of these, two were ~$61. They’re coming from New Zealand so no telling how long it’ll take. Cant go wrong for sixty bucks.

Ok, got these in the mail over the weekend, ~18 days from New Zealand. They look like good quality and are quite long to allow you to trim to the length you need. Thickness is ~.1” (little under 1/8”, .125) or 2.5mm. Picture is with a 7.62-SD for reference.

These are going on two Form 1 cans I have in the works so I don’t have any info yet on the installation process or performance. I’ll post that up eventually.

For $30 you can hardly go wrong.

A68DF085-7261-4267-8319-E58C219F0719.jpegF33E3983-7767-45B8-85C8-4E65CBA64287.jpegB7FDF6D4-E6F1-46DF-BF4D-2E9351D0272C.jpeg
 
Ok, got these in the mail over the weekend, ~18 days from New Zealand. They look like good quality and are quite long to allow you to trim to the length you need. Thickness is ~.1” (little under 1/8”, .125) or 2.5mm. Picture is with a 7.62-SD for reference.

These are going on two Form 1 cans I have in the works so I don’t have any info yet on the installation process or performance. I’ll post that up eventually.

For $30 you can hardly go wrong.

View attachment 398615View attachment 398620View attachment 398621

Did you find temp data and max round count data for these? I couldn't find any heat threshold data or destructive testing when I looked. Their instruction manual also entailed use of lubricants to get the cover on, which worried me with respect to getting it back off.

Context:
I don't want to risk dropping 60-120 rounds through my firearm and suppressor (sans cooling between mags) .... only to find something melted to it. Similarly, the idea of trying to use water or cooking spray (noted in the manual) as a lube to get the thing off a hot can (to speed up cooldown time) was concerning, as water would turn to steam and I don't want to think about the mess cooking spray would make.
 
^^ All good questions but, no, I didn’t find answers to any of that info. My take on these is that they’re meant to be semi-permanently installed i.e. no taking them off once they’re installed. I just tried slipping them over my two raw Ti tubes and they‘re snug but slide easily over the 1.5”OD tube and could probably be coaxed over the 1.625”OD tube if you were patient.

I’m having my tubes moly coated so I’m assuming there’ll be some lube required to install them ultimately. Once on, I don’t plan to take mine off. Most likely, removing them will be necessarily destructive (cut off with a razor knife).

I’m not planning on mag dumps to test the failure point but, if they melt, I’ll just cut them off and drive on. I will review them once I’ve installed them and shot enough rounds to have an opinion but that may still be a while off.
 
blowing compressed air under them will probably aid with installation and removal.
 
Bumping this to add another solution for using a cover with the TRex Arms light bar.

MGM suppressor wraps are thin enough and will compress enough to work with a 1.5" diameter suppressor and the MLok version of the light bar. Be sure to trim the wrap such that it wraps just 2x the suppressor and no more.


IMG_4933.jpgIMG_4934.jpg
 
^^ All good questions but, no, I didn’t find answers to any of that info. My take on these is that they’re meant to be semi-permanently installed i.e. no taking them off once they’re installed. I just tried slipping them over my two raw Ti tubes and they‘re snug but slide easily over the 1.5”OD tube and could probably be coaxed over the 1.625”OD tube if you were patient.

I’m having my tubes moly coated so I’m assuming there’ll be some lube required to install them ultimately. Once on, I don’t plan to take mine off. Most likely, removing them will be necessarily destructive (cut off with a razor knife).

I’m not planning on mag dumps to test the failure point but, if they melt, I’ll just cut them off and drive on. I will review them once I’ve installed them and shot enough rounds to have an opinion but that may still be a while off.
So whats the word on these? How have they been holding up and working out for you? Looking something like these and was trying to find a good review but really nothing.
 
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