What Did You Do In The Garage Today?

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I didn’t do it myself, but I took my Ram in for oil change, rotate & balance, and alignment. ~$31 total.

I’d noticed oil spots within the last week and saw drops hanging off the drain pan bolt/plug. It’s the original one, including attached gasket, as far as I know.

So I took a $4.28 chance and splurged on a new one after 164,655 miles since it was about time for a change anyway. I didn’t even fool with crawling under it to really look around first. They said they didn’t see oil anywhere higher that was running down, so I’ll assume that fixed it. Need to keep an eye on it the next several days.
 
Had a caliper lock up on one of my trucks. This thing is huge, and expensive, and heavy, and a pain to remove. I went to buy a replacement and the guy at Kenworth told me they make a rebuild kit for them, my answer was "I'm already in over my head, I don't need to add more to my plate". If all I had to change was the pads this would be a super easy ordeal, pop out that pin remove that strap and the pads slide out the back. But because I had to replace the rotor as well the entire hub has to come off. This is the first time I've ever dealt with disc brakes on a big truck.
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Changed the oil in my daughter 's car this morning. Noticed a slight leak at the oil plug. A couple culprits come to mind as to why: I forgot to change the crush washer when I changed the oil last time, and/or, I did not fully tighten the plug. I made sure this time a new crush washer was used and I properly tightened the plug. Then enjoyed a couple Sierra Nevada 40th Hoppy Anniversary Ale's.
 
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GM puts in low quality rubber O rings and gaskets in a lot of places. Well, I'm not paying more $ to reward them for shoddy engineering so I've been collecting parts for the wife's car. The Cruze has a few common issues. This one is for oil leaking at the oil cooler and dripping on the CAT. The smell is annoying but if the leak gets bad some have produced fires.

All the parts came in this week so I decided to start today. Figured to take 2'ish days. One to get in, one to clean and replace the gaskets and assemble. It took 2hrs to get the CAT, header/throttle/turbo assembly and oil cooler out. 3 more hours to clean and then replace all the cracked rubber. Glad I sourced all the oil lines to/from the turbo. One was leaking, the other snapped because of the heat. Can't blame it with 117k miles.

I have everything back except for the CAT and the exhaust connection. That can wait till tomorrow.

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BigWaylon said:
I didn’t do it myself, but I took my Ram in for oil change, rotate & balance, and alignment. ~$31 total.

I’d noticed oil spots within the last week and saw drops hanging off the drain pan bolt/plug. It’s the original one, including attached gasket, as far as I know.

So I took a $4.28 chance and splurged on a new one after 164,655 miles since it was about time for a change anyway. I didn’t even fool with crawling under it to really look around first. They said they didn’t see oil anywhere higher that was running down, so I’ll assume that fixed it. Need to keep an eye on it the next several days.
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:(

Thinking now it might be the rear main seal.

Are any of the over-the-counter products like Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak at least worth a shot?

Or anybody interested in doing the work?
 
BigWaylon said:
:(

Thinking now it might be the rear main seal.

Are any of the over-the-counter products like Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak at least worth a shot?

Or anybody interested in doing the work?
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Some trans fluid in the oil may swell the seal.

Used it in many old engines to stop valve seal leaks.
 
LeeMajors said:
Some trans fluid in the oil may swell the seal.

Used it in many old engines to stop valve seal leaks.
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Does it matter what kind? I probably have some ATF 3 and/or 4 around here. And if Honda has special fluid I might have some I’ve bought for her Pilot in the past.

5.7 holds 7 quarts, and I’ve been burning a little out for the last several years, so I’m adding some once a month or so. Is a quart of trans in that volume of oil too much? Not enough? Just right?
 
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No idea. Appears BAR'S makes a rear main seal stop leak. I have no idea if it works. Just came up in a search
 
Upgraded my 2008 Subaru Outback low beams and fog lights to LED's. Also upgraded my 2020 Honda Accord high beams to LED's.
 
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I bloodied myself replacing the O2 sensor on my Buick.

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The sensor is buried deep at the back of the engine.

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So I had to use a crowfoot wrench (purchased just for this job) and a U-joint attachment to get it out.

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But it did make the P0420 code go away.

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rdinatal said:
I have everything back except for the CAT and the exhaust connection. That can wait till tomorrow.
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What is it with that one bolt?!? You know which one, the one that just won't go in like the others....:mad:

It took me 2hrs to get the b'stard oil return line bolted onto the bottom of the turbo. One bolt would go in fine, the other would get cross threaded or not line up at all. Had to work around the oil line coming off the flange where the bolts go though and into the turbo body.

Then I had a brilliant idea! Just before I was going to shoot the car. I'll use my left hand (the right was tired and cramping up) but put the most difficult bolt in first, while closing my eyes. Yup, first try. o_O Seems where the flange sits it's cut at a weird angle. My eyes were playing tricks and I thought the bolt was vertical, when it really shouldn't be.

Put in the CAT, connect exhaust, connect sensors, check hose clamps, fill coolant, double check, check again, check to see if any bolts/nuts were left in the egg carton (important). Test start, no fluid gushing out. :) Let it run for 15min then off to get new oil and filter. A little smoke/smell from the fluids when disconnecting oil and coolant lines and the WD40 the help with some exhaust threads. It's done!
 
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Replaced the u- joints and shortened the rear driveshaft in the jeep. About to rebuild the rear brakes. Got the parts in the garage waiting for install. Probably do that tomorrow. I'll be replacing the fuel injectors before it gets hot out. I've got an extra transfer case I'll be installing this month too. I love working on my XJ
 
I removed the Battery Management System from my Ford F150 since the system is unable to recognize the fact I installed a new battery in Oct and it keeps giving me a low battery warning and starts shutting down systems. Ford really screwed the pooch on this system to save .000000000001 per mile in fuel economy.
 
rdinatal said:
What is it with that one bolt?!? You know which one, the one that just won't go in like the others....:mad:

It took me 2hrs to get the b'stard oil return line bolted onto the bottom of the turbo. One bolt would go in fine, the other would get cross threaded or not line up at all. Had to work around the oil line coming off the flange where the bolts go though and into the turbo body.

Then I had a brilliant idea! Just before I was going to shoot the car. I'll use my left hand (the right was tired and cramping up) but put the most difficult bolt in first, while closing my eyes. Yup, first try. o_O Seems where the flange sits it's cut at a weird angle. My eyes were playing tricks and I thought the bolt was vertical, when it really shouldn't be................It's done!
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You got to use the FORCE.
 
wvsig said:
I removed the Battery Management System from my Ford F150 since the system is unable to recognize the fact I installed a new battery in Oct and it keeps giving me a low battery warning and starts shutting down systems. Ford really screwed the pooch on this system to save .000000000001 per mile in fuel economy.
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What year model?
 
Added a 2002 Toyota Highlander AWD to the stable today. Current plan is to replace the brakes and headlights, do the regular maintenance and drive it into the ground
 
Work is technically a garage so.....Wrapped up yet another 6.0 powerstroke “bulletproofing” job. Only 2 more of those awaiting reassembly and then just maybe I’ll get to mess with something less mundane.
 
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Not vehicle related, but on Sunday as I was in the garage staining the frame of a bunk bed I had a hawk fly in through the door and land practically at my feet. Fortunately it skittered under the car and flew back out; for a second I was afraid it was going to get confused and fly around inside. "Pictures or it didn't happen" - well, I am not fast enough to get a selfie with a raptor.
 
Cleaned and conditioned the leather seats in my Highlander yesterday and replaced the headlight assemblies in it today
 
Hardwired a radar detector into the rear view mirror on the BMW M550ix. I was tired of looking at that bungee cord hanging off my mirror. Took a little longer than I had hope but the trim pieces were tricky and it is best not to pull or push to hard on plastic pieces covering the mirror.
 
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Replaced oil pressure switch Chevy 1500, must have got a bad one, gauge pegged as soon as I cranked it up! dadgum it. It’s a pain to get to on the back of the engine, Back to the parts store!
 
Worked on the wife's '16 Passat. Hard to believe that thing has 130K on the clock already but we bought it in 2015. She drives, alot.
It started on Sunday after we hiked 7 miles at Crowder's Moutain. Leaving out off 74 to I85 we got a nice surprise coming home. Not sure how it happened but it sure let the air out fast. First time the spare was ever used on this car. Monday we went to the tire store.
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It ended up costing me $30 for the road hazard warranty re-up at Discount Tire, so I went ahead and bought another new tire since I'm approaching the end of the pro-rate. I think they gave me $20 on the 53K mile Michelin that's rated for 60K.
2 tires for two-fiddy so she's happy for now. It has been overdue for some maintenance / repair items so dusted off the tools.

I changed the A/F ratio (upstream) o2 sensor that I had ordered last week. $59 aint terrible for the upstream sensor. That made the CEL go away and driveability improved quite a bit as I expected.

Changed the oil out around 7.5K with 0W30 Castrol Edge (meets VW 502 00) and an inferior (not nearly as good as the Purolater or OEM) Fram filter. It has probably half the number of pleats. Gonna swap that one out at 5K miles. Maybe sooner. Not gonna trust it any longer.

Swapped out the air filter. Old one wasn't too bad but every spring and fall I swap them regardless. Cheap insurance.

She runs as good as new.
 
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Ikarus1 said:
Worked on the wife's '16 Passat.

Changed the oil out around 7.5K with 0W30 Castrol Edge (meets VW 502 00) and an inferior (not nearly as good as the Purolater or OEM) Fram filter. It has probably half the number of pleats. Gonna swap that one out at 5K miles. Maybe sooner. Not gonna trust it any longer.

Swapped out the air filter. Old one wasn't too bad but every spring and fall I swap them regardless. Cheap insurance.

She runs as good as new.
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Blasphemy!!!!
I wouldn't put a fram on my lawn mower! Lol

DS
 
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I installed two new gel batteries in my wife's and son's Honda Recons. I also fixed the choke cable on my son's Recon. He was having starting issues and after some poking around I found a loose connector on the carb end of the cable. Adjusted it and screwed it down tight.

Ready for spring now!

CHRIS
 
I would have to charge a fortune in labor if I was a stereo installer! It took me about 30 hours to install a new head unit, powered sub, woofers and tweeters and sound mat. Looks and sounds much better and I now have Apple Carplay and Android Auto.
 
Sunday late morning I crawled under the front of the Dakota, looking for clues to the occasional clunk I've been hearing.
Found it...just have to set up a time to use the concrete driveway at MIL's house as ours is dirt.

Fun ahead!
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