What did you do in the reloading room today?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Mike Overlay, Dec 16, 2016.

  1. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    The Redding dual-ring carbide dies are for the long straight-walled revolver calibers, I believe. I seriously looked at getting one of those but the price put me off. I then figured out how I could do the same thing (in two steps) using the Lee carbide crimp die, with the crimp insert removed. I full-length size using the FCD, then use a regular sizing die to resize just the area where the bullet seats. A lot more work than is necessary, I know, but I end up working the brass a lot less and hopefully that will make my 460 S&W brass last longer.
     
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  2. ECNC

    ECNC Member

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    Took bullet inventory. Will be placing large order in a few weeks along with more primers.
     
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  3. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    The last several days off and on I have been forming and shooting some 500 MDM. Couple of things has spurred this, one is that Billy has a big Ta Do at his place coming up in October. I figured this year I would donate some rifles and ammo for CFF folks to shoot and play with. I figured I would get some brass fire formed with you guys in attendance, but I hate the look of the “De-Formed” loads……… Bulge and ugly.

    You will just have to live with ugly ammo and understand that this is “de-formed” ammo………. And you don't really get a nicely ironed out proper piece until its fired!

    I did wash some and they look a little better than just factory dirty………

    Another reason that spurred this was the fact that Bertram is now or made some 375 RUM brass. I bought 20 from Midway the other day to try out.

    Remington has not made 375RUM in many many years. So far Hornady, Nosler, and Norma have not picked it up yet.

    Bertram is not as malleable as the Remington, a little more brittle perhaps? But man if FORMS up really good. It forms up so good, I am not ashamed of it like the Remington 375RUM.

    This has been washed and dried…. So it looks a bit better.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I first formed 5 pieces of the Bertram brass, I lost 2 pieces out, split. But I did fire 3 pieces with Obsolete 460 Raptors 92/IMR 8208 for a medium velocity of 2300 fps and small change. They formed and shot fine, no issues. Not sure how they would do at full high pressures…… But good for now….

    In forming I also loose a few Remingtons as well. But not to worry, I can take all the ones that split and cut them down to 2.240 inches for standard B&Ms………

    [​IMG]

    I am going to “De-Form” some more today, put them in the wash, then look for other Obsolete Bullets that can fire form some decent 500 MDM brass…………

    Hopefully some of you CFF guys can shoot this stuff up for me in October, and have some fun while you are at it...........
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019
  4. FatboyFlash

    FatboyFlash Senior Member

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    Loaded another 1000 9mm for practice this month
     
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  5. Wolffy

    Wolffy Make ready. Charter Member Life Member

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    Built my reloading area. DE945077-4750-441F-BF2C-6CECFE32BD2A.jpeg
     
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  6. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    So far today loaded 250 rds of 7.62X40 with 100 Raptors......... In between working and being Monday........
     
  7. Charlie

    Charlie Member

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    500 rounds of 9mm Luger with 5.3 grains of Power Pistol behind 124 grain Delta Precision FMJ using CCI 500 primers in mixed cases. I have not been able to shoot very much lately and am looking forward to making up lost trigger time soon. The 45 Auto head goes on the Dillon when I run out of 9mm bullets.
     
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  8. FatboyFlash

    FatboyFlash Senior Member

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    Loaded another thousand rounds of 9mm and cleaned and organized my work area. It was disgusting!!!!
     
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  9. Oneofsix

    Oneofsix somewhere between apathy & raging anger Charter Member Supporting Member

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    Spent entirely too much time trying to figure out why the Lee autoprime #19 shellholder is tighter that the regular Lee #19 shellholder.
    Been using the #19 to prep some 32-20 brass but when it came to priming the cases, only 60% would fit into the autoprime.
    Then I cleaned up a little and found ~300 rounds of 9mm- and I don't own one anymore!
    Labeled it, put it away. Guess I need to figure out what to do with it-

    Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Not per day, but per last week.......

    I loaded 100 rds of Premium ++ P 9mm with 90 Raptors at 1400 fps in 5 inch guns, loaded with V 3N37, new nickel Starline. This is put away stuff. I have 88 bullets left out of that 500 piece Bulk order from CEB, will load those maybe this week to go in various 9mm magazines.

    Have a friend of mine headed to Africa, and he needed some filler ammo to get what he needed to carry over. I loaded 25 rounds of 416 B&M with 325 CEB Raptors 74/AA 2520 for 2540 fps in his 20 inch Win M70. This combined with what he has in stock will give him enough for his mission. I also loaded 35 rounds of 30/06 premium stuff with 165 gr Swift A Frames that he is taking as a light rifle.

    Then I loaded 100 pieces of 300 BLK with 100 Raptors. Was not really satisfied with the cleaning I had given the already prepped brass. I was still in the learning stage of how much cleaning solution I needed to add to the wash, which prompted me to clean and wash all the available 300 BLK I had on hand, AGAIN.

    After that I jumped on some mixed fired brass in 223. It was already prepped, so I loaded it with some cheaper conventional bullets to have some range ammo for sighting in, POI checks, feed/function tests, that sort of thing, ended up being 300 rds of that, and when fired, will toss the brass in the trash.

    Ordered a good bit of supplies coming in, brass/bullets in various things. Recently we had been talking about effective 223 bullets on another thread, and there is nothing more effective in 223 than the 50 Raptor from CEB. But, I really have a good bit of that on hand. One of the Conventional bullets I like, and cheap, is the 55 Hornady Soft. I load some of those on occasion with 26.8/WW 748, and it has the same POI as my standard 50 Raptor loads in most guns. While not as effective as the Raptor, its a decent alternative. I have quite a few bullets on hand, but decided to lay in another 1000 of them and load some more 223 in the coming weeks. Which I am also in the process of washing a batch of Everglades already prepped 223 brass. Good stuff, and now it is shiny and bright, or most of it anyway.

    Not sure what this week will bring......... I know I have to load some 500 MDM and some 9.3 B&M to send to our PH in Africa. He carries a 500 MDM on his Dangerous Game hunting as backup for Clients. Uses a 9.3 B&M for his plains game hunts.
     
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  11. Ikarus1

    Ikarus1 Avtomat Krishna-kov

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    been cleaning up odds and ends in the reloading room. decapped and wet tumbled a couple hundred pieces of LC 5.56 brass, and took inventory of the powder and primer stock. Somebody needs to have a 1 cent hazmat sale along with free shipping and 10% off lol.
     
  12. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    I assume you are talking about the 55SP? I like those as well, they have been very accurate for me. Can't speak about how effective they might be as I have no direct experience with that, but I have assumed they would be good. There is also the 55 SP SX that I believe is supposed to expand at a lower velocity, and is something I have considered using in my 8.5" AR pistol.
     
  13. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Probably, 55 Soft Point, the ones I like have the cannelure. I put these in the test box many years ago, but at the time, I was on other missions, and not enough respect for 223 to document and catalog. Rare that I do that, but sometimes........

    Sam and I are scheduled to do some Terminal Tests in the coming weeks with some .510 caliber rifle, I plan on doing an official 55 Hornady SP test, documented, with a few different barrel lengths and close, at 25 yards. We will then have a very good idea of just what this is and what it can do. I also plan on putting a 62 gr bonded Federal in the box as well.

    I will also be doing a 9mm test at that time as well.....
     
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  14. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    Don’t pretend to be an expert reloader, but I had problems with 9mm and I have seen folks with $3500 Wilson’s complain at the range about feeding and bulging.

    Also heard a lot of comments about only using the Lyman factory crimping dies... Going to upgrade to a Dillon XL750 and keep my RCBS dies for short runs or experiments. The Dillon dies are also "straight wall or RING resizing dies" and the crimp is tapered, not rolled or factory.

    Also talked to the RMR owner about the 147 FMJ and his “advice” on how NOT to have problems on a CZ chamber which supposedly has a shorter leade. This is what I learned, from several sources and my own experience...or possibly inexperience.

    I used once fired shells and barely belled then with a pair of needle nose pliers so I could slip in a bullet. I then removed the barrels from a CZ Shadow 2 and a Springfield Armory Range Officer. I had observed that bulging was not an issue in the Glock 17 & 34. It would take anything. Smith Performance Center 9L was a little more finicky. Take a Failure To Fire (which is actually a chambering problem) and put it in the Glocks...BANG. Same For Ruger’s....which I have five 9mm.

    Bottom line pushed the shell with the sliding bullet into the SA RO and the RMR 147’s are barely in the shell. Then move the same round to the CZ and it pushes in a little further. BUT that was in the 1.230 COAL range. 1.170 is the max if memory serves me. So the FTF issue is not the short Leade. It is the crimping.

    A friend that was a bench rest shooter walked me through the proper crimping setup. I compared that method with how Dillon’s video says to set up a crimped. SAME Process.

    I found that I had the crimping die set at least 0.100 to far down. So, the bulge was the issue. This is how I set it up and have not had any issues since then. It also helps to read a little. The heavier or over crimping you do, the greater risk of bulging. RMR says to just seat lower. Yes, that is one fix, but not the correct one. All you are doing is spreading the overcrimping bulge out. Need to adjust the crimp properly. Measuring to me is tricky. You need a high resolution profile comparator to properly do that. Many can accurately measure....but after you read the article, try my method.

    https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/...anation-how-set-right-amount-taper-crimp.html

    Ideally, if you extend the ram to the top of the stroke with a belled shell and then screw down the die with your fingers until very snug, then you back off on the shell and screw the die down 1/3 turn, that will work. You are shooting for lowering the die around 0.025....one full turn is 0..070.

    But the above also depends on how much you Bell. I think this will also work....maybe even better.

    Measure the bullet OD.. Subtract 0.004. That is the ID that you want the shell to be at the lip or leading edge of shell AFTER CRIMPING. Here is what I might suggest as a practical way to get there...

    Follow the SAME setup. Use a BELLED shell (sized with no primer). Do the 1/3 turn DOWN. NOW.... Measure the inside diameter of the lip. It should be the same as the Bullet Diameter MINUS 0.004.

    Keep adjusting until you the ID of the crimped shell is in that range. NOW you CAN test that. Full length resize say 25 rounds. Bell, but don’t put in a primer. Drop in your bullet (keep the COAL in the recommended range for that bullet). Run the belled shells through the crimping dies with a properly seated bullet. NOW....will these shells fall into the barrel and either fall right out when you invert the barrel? Can you pull out the shell with a Fingernail or is easily removable with your finger tips? If so, then use your fingers and try to TWIST the Bullet. Is it TIGHT? OR put pliers on the case rim and another pair on the bullet. Can you move it or twist it. If the answer is NO and it PASSES the PLUNK TEST in your barrels....then you are probably good to go.

    You should notice, if you were overcrimping, a reduction in the press handle force for seat and crimp. If it sticks, then go down about 1/8 turn on the crimping die....remember to adjust the seating plug UP an equal amount to maintain COAL. Repeat using small increments such as 1/8th turn.

    If it did NOT stick....then drive on....but if you are worried about TOO much Crimp, STILL, then back out 1/8 of a turn and run some more....then the Plunk Test. Eventually, you will (should) get chambering problems on the PLUNK test....then go down another 1/8 turn.....just to be sure. Do the Pliers or Finger pull/twist test.

    You can pull the test bullets resize the shells and use them now. Nothing wasted.

    My experience is that once you have the crimp set to a good, practical MINIMUM, then the tapered crimping die will not be bulging the side walls, regardless of bullet length. One man's experience and understanding....others may have issues....but it works for me....
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
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  15. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Thank you Tom for the detailed description and fix.
     
  16. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Not exactly in the Loading Rooms, too much, but did conduct Terminal Penetration tests today on the range................Documenting data now.........
     
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  17. Wolffy

    Wolffy Make ready. Charter Member Life Member

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    New sizing die came in. Got it installed and made up some test rounds. The new KKM barrel is much tighter of a chamber than the STI's.
     
  18. Jabroni

    Jabroni Active Member Supporting Member

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    Finished up just over 700rd of 223 last week. Time to do some 308 next!
     
  19. zuerjoha

    zuerjoha I *really* like Glock 19s Benefactor Supporting Member

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    Loaded for the first time in 4 years! Only 30 rounds but I'm going to chrono them tomorrow then load some 3N38 loads tomorrow to shoot Sunday.
     
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  20. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    I am anxiously awaiting my XL750 (9mm and 45). I posted previously that one of the techs (an avid shooter) at Dillon advised against lubing cases. BUT, after reading Brian Enos' comments and many blogs, I decided that I was going to do VIRGIN brass....and see how that worked....just to reduce the arm pressure and also to get a more consistent rhythm. SOME of the bloggers (who may or may NOT be "MASTER CLASS" reloaders) commented that if you run mixed (fired and virgin) that you will notice a difference in the amount of arm pressure (pulling the handle) and that breaks your routine and you get "inconsistent" powder charges. Maybe....maybe NOT. BUT, I also am not as youthful and energetic and don't have my youthful upper body strength.

    SO, I concluded that lubing virgin cases MIGHT be a good deal. Along the way, I also read all the folklore and facts about case lubes and secret witches' brews and how you bought lanolin at the Dollar Store and 90% rubbing alcohol (and after my eyes started to glaze, I craved 90 PROOF Crown).....I decided to run a test.

    I have the Frankford Arsenal vib unit with a center post. I have also noted that you always get some media dust after a few hundred rounds and did not want to have to continually tear down my new Dillon. So, I contrived this experiment. I took two "Bounce" dryer pads or towels (my wife used one of them and said.....THIS ain't for me or US).... I used the separator and shook and tumbled the shells in it to get out all the particles. THEN I put one towel North to South and the other East to West in the bowel. I had punctured or made a hole in the center. That pretty much covered the bottom o the bowl. I had 465 9mm cases in the lot. I turned it on for maybe 2 minutes. Then I actually shook the entire unit to get the shells on top of the towels again.....ran about 2 more minutes.

    NOTE....the Dillon tech support said that OVER cleaning (he recommended dry media in a tumbler or a vib unit) was the number one source of "too much force". The residue on the inside of the mouth is actually intended as a lubricant for the Dillon Powder Measure belling or flaring tool. If you run them over 30 minutes, you start to remove the coating just inside the mouth and the cases will required MORE lever force.

    SO....the cases had the black residue on the outside removed and there was a "slight lubricity" to the exterior. I ran about 150 and they sized a little easier..... I have an RCBS Jr and there is hardly any force required at all.

    My CONCLUSION.....the dryer Bounce towels did a SUPER job of "dusting" the cases. I don't have compressed air in my reloading area and did not relish the thought of carrying the cases back and forth for blowing off the dust. Don't need to NOW.....there was absolutely NO dust on the RCBS (I cleaned the primer pan and the frame prior to this experiment). Usually there will be a dusting around the ram on the frame.

    SO, that will be my FIX. I DID order some of the Frankford Arsenal spray lube and many of the HOW TO's (Some approved by Dillon) usually show a baggie with a couple of shots of the Dillon lube and tumbling them for a minute or so to lube them. BUT, the tech said NOPE....he does NOT recommend. I also concluded that the Frankford Arsenal stuff is similar to the Dillon and you can buy it on Amazon for HALF the price of the overly marked up Dillon....

    If others have feedback....please comment....I will report on my setup and forces and such once I get going....
     
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  21. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    SECOND SUBJECT.....

    9mm Primer ReDraw. That is what I think that the Dillon tech called it. When a primer (usually a SP) does not come out all the way and you can not remove the shell from the station (shell holder on my RCBS Jr), then if you "stroke it again", it will. After talking to him he said that it was COMMON for some brands of primers to do that....(CCI and I have since read about Federal's). The problem is usually MIS-Diagnosed and you keep running out the decapping or depriming pin. THAT IS NOT A FIX.

    I followed his advice (and have since read about it and it is MORE common than I thought)..... He said to make the point on the depriming pin a little more POINTED. Now if you read, then a lot of folks have theories and such. Some say that they pointed theirs like a hypodermic needle. The tech told me to go slow. I have RCBS dies and the pin is sort of rounded. I also read that some folks discarded their pins and bought Lyman pins....which were SMALLER and more pointed. So, this is what I did.

    I took a file and put it on the bench and pushed down and held it (could have used a vise, but not really necessary). I put the decapping rod around a 30 deg angle (measured from horizontal) and then just twirled it or rotated it in my hand as I moved it. It did NOT take a lot of force. I maybe made 5 or 6 passes. The tip was now somewhat pointed (think putting a new pencil in a sharpener and not letting it sharpen to a point). The rounded contour of the original pin was still visible. I then used a piece of crocus cloth and sort of knocked off the burrs and rounded the contour a little.

    Deprimed 461 9mm cases. Had started and maybe ran 25 and were having issues with the CCI primers. Took 5 minutes to fix and then ran the rest. NO ISSUES. Running down the pin does NOT fix it. The primer actually "sticks" to the pin and when you move the ram down, that primer tries to RESEAT. It just barely sticks....but on a Progressive, it is a major issue.

    Hope this helps... NOTE....not ALL CCI's did this....maybe 10 - 15%.... but annoying enough to be an issue.
     
  22. Wolffy

    Wolffy Make ready. Charter Member Life Member

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    Made and gauged 900 rounds of .40 destined for my next major match. New star line brass loads so much smoother.
     
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  23. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    Good to hear more positive about Starline. Was recommended by a match shooter when I purchased his CZ Shadow 2. I have been using it exclusively for 45 (found great deal on once fired 250 @ $12.50 & low cost shipping) as well as 9mm. Ordering more Starline 9mm and will only be loading Blazers and Starlines in that...segregated of course.
     
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  24. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    I almost never lube handgun cases, but did run into a problem with some brand new Starline 44mag cases. I had no problem sizing them, but the expander was really sticking hard. I tried dry tumbling them, hoping the small amount of polish and dust might help - it didn't. I ended up using a q-tip to lube then inside of the mouth on one in three cases and the problem went away.

    I've also seen a problem with wet tumbling and the Dillon powder funnel, but only with 45acp cases for some reason. It seems that using Dawn gets the brass perfectly clean and bare, and the 45acp brass grabs the powder funnel (much like a Chinese finger lock) and ended up galling the powder funnel, leaving thin streaks of brass. When I switch from Dawn to Armorall Wash-n-Wax, the problem mostly went away (I still have a case stick once in a while). The Wash-n-Wax leaves a very thin film of wax, which acts as a lubricant of sorts. It also prevents the brass from tarnishing later.

    So, I think there is some credibility to the idea that residue inside the case mouth is a good thing - when it comes to expanding.
     
  25. KnotRight

    KnotRight Well-Known Member Charter Member Benefactor Life Member

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    Reloaded 40 - 6.5 CM and 204 Ruger rounds.
    Got into a LOVE/HATE relationship with 4350 powder. Love the way it shoots but a pain in the ass to load. The powder get stuck in the funnel in the powder thrower. Then after you trickle the powder and pouring it back into the case you have to make sure it does not get jammed up funnel. 8208 and Benchmark is so much easier to used. Flows like water.
     
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  26. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Lots of different load and test projects going on for the last couple of weeks, too many to even recall. But today we are on the range doing load development and pressures on a 30 American, I believe that is what they call it. Basically 6.8 SPC taken to .308 caliber.

    Been loading some 510 Wells for the boys at BatteryOaks to play with too.......
     
  27. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    No reloading activity, but I did get out my Ruger Mini-30 so I could disassemble and do a thorough cleaning. I was mainly interested in deciding whether I wanted to spend the money for an adjustable gas block, of just buy the gas block bushings kit for it. (It is way over-gassed.)
     
  28. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    It would seem that your Ruger has a lot in common with the current crop of Liberal 2020 Presidential candidates. Can you post a link to the gas blocks for them? Are they categorized by agenda, gender, ethnicity, etc. ? I do hope they have some for the lower IQ models...:p:p
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2019
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  29. Ikarus1

    Ikarus1 Avtomat Krishna-kov

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    cleaned some brass. Seems to be all I do lately lol. Clean and stash brass. You know, for that rainy day when I have nothing to do but load 9mm and 5.56
     
  30. Michael458

    Michael458 Active Member Life Member

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    Tested 32 different loads in the American 30 today, load data and pressure data....... Whew, tired and worn out.............
     
  31. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    Unfortunately, there are not enough gas blocks that are big enough to handle the "current crop". ;)
     
  32. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    I just got in a new neck bushing for my 224V sizing die. I made the best calculations I could and picked a .248 bushing. I tried it out on a Federal case I had, mandrel expanded and turned the neck, and the finished diameter was .249, so that should work out just about right. I just hope the wall thickness of Starline brass is similar.
     
  33. Bullseye Baldee

    Bullseye Baldee No Plastic for me!

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    My bet is the starline brass will be thicker than Fed
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019
  34. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    I wanted to size the neck down about 0.001" smaller than needed, and then expand it with the mandrel expander, so a little thicker is ok.

    FWIW, the neck wall thickness on the FC 224V is about 0.0025" more than LC 223 brass.
     
  35. Bullseye Baldee

    Bullseye Baldee No Plastic for me!

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    Starline brass in 308 is heavier than Federal brass. Federal brass had more volume than all other brass. Lapua had the least volume and I have to lower the powder weight or I would have compress Varget to the point of crushing the powder. I would like to know if it holds true with other calibers??
     
  36. Toprudder

    Toprudder Be vewy vewy qwiet. Supporting Member

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    I've always heard that military brass is heavier (thicker) than commercial brass, but Starline weighs as much as LC brass in 223.
     
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  37. Bullseye Baldee

    Bullseye Baldee No Plastic for me!

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    Moving the reloading room 2 times in 2 years.
    The final move...hopefully.
    0921191745.jpg
     
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  38. Clicker

    Clicker Member

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    Cast a few 40 and 45 cal projectiles today. Don't mind the wrinkly ones I'll get them coated & sized later this week.

    IMG_1368.JPG
     
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  39. FredB

    FredB Member Supporting Member

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    Loaded my first batch of .357 SIG. Been reloading for many years but this is my first bottlenecked pistol cartridge. Looking forward to getting to the range.
     
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  40. TomGCherry

    TomGCherry Active Member

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    More evidence that Mr. Dillon, inventor and developer of the DILLON presses knew something about reloading.

    YES... the nitride or powder residue in the case mouths is a lubricant. I have about 350 Starline Virgin 9mm that I decided to load up so that when my Dillon XL750 arrives, I will be running once fired. Then techs at Dillon say that running one headstamp is the key to consistency in the powder charge and your rhythm. They also say not to mix Virgin with once fired if you can avoid that. If you have to mix Virgin with Once Fired, you might have to lube the Virgin.

    I proved that last night. After running 50 Blazer once fired for an experiment, I switched to Virgin Starline. After about 100, I concluded that the handle effort was greater. You could also start to see brass dust or residue on the shell holder.

    OK...what is the fix? I ain’t gonna use a Q-Tip. I got 4 cotton balls. I had ordered some of the cheaper (Dillon is expensive) alcohol/lanolin mixture Frankford Armory case lube. YES...the Dollar Store sells lanolin and rubbing alcohol and like a martini recipe, there are folks that swear their secret ratio and alcohol concentration is the best in the world.

    So, using the FA spray, I put about 3 or 4 pumps per ball. Threw in maybe 100 or so Starlines and the four balls into a Cool Whip container and just manually tumbled and inverted and shook them holding the container (obviously with the top on) for less than a minute. They ran great. Still required a little more force or handle effort than the Blazers, but way less than before. Had wiped the shell holder. Very little brass dust. So.....the nitride residue DOES lubricate, but you can get close with my method. There was not any perceptible feeling of wax or lube on the cases. I have since finished priming and charging about half and there is no stickiness or need for wiping or tumbling in paper towels to get rid of something that ain’t there.

    Try it....I think it will work. It will also allow mixing of Virgin and Once Fired in a progressive press without compromising the accuracy of the powder measure...
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2019
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