Why does my can suck?

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Last range session I shot exactly 20 rounds of 300blk subs starting with completely clean internals and it was locked up enough to have to beat it apart (as usual). I used to blame this on rimfire lead fouling but it became clear that it happens just as bad with centerfire. The problem is that fouling cements the monocore core to the outer tube. I can't comprehend a suppressor that I can't shoot just a few rounds through without having to stop and clean it or at least break everything loose. I made sure I had the tube and as far as I could tell the core completely clean of fouling before shooting. Have I damaged mine somehow to cause it to do this or does it just suck?

This last time it was dry but I've tried leaving lube in it to no real effect. I'm almost at the point of just sanding down the OD of the core to give more clearance but I know that will reduce the performance. I've had to beat this thing apart so many times I'm beginning to damage the threads. :mad:

Thompson Machine ISIS-2 9mm
 
It is typical of the Thompson cans. Unfortuantely thier design just allows it to happen. I do not sell them anymore unless someone just has to have one of thier cans for that reason. I have one as a demo and it does the same thing.
 
Have the same issue with my Liberty can. If they cut the mono core with more clearance the performance falls off, if they add a clamshell the weight goes up. Grease it up and beat it apart when you gotta.

Of shoot it until it gets too heavy and then send it in under warranty.
 
My TM cans, isis 22 and isis 2-9mm both get coated with frog lube, the threads get copper anti seize. Never a problem with a couple hundred rounds between cleaning.
 
FWIW dielectric grease was recommended to me by a suppressor manufacturer and I’ve been using the same giant tube for about five years. Got it at Auto Zone
 
My TM cans, isis 22 and isis 2-9mm both get coated with frog lube, the threads get copper anti seize. Never a problem with a couple hundred rounds between cleaning.

T.M. recommends cleaning thier rimfire can every 150-200 rds.
Who the heck wants to stop shooting 22lr after 150rds?
Four whole mags in an AR22!!
After cutting my range trips short due to the TM rimfire can, i admitted defeat and bought a sparrow, it uses the clam shell design. Far superior!!

I am still somewhat bitter that I spent so much time and money on two T.M. crappy cans.
 
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I think some suppressors just suck. My email exchange with AAC this week went like this:

Me: Hey there, I have an AAC 762-SD that is giving me very poor accuracy. Is there anything that can be done? From a rifle that produces 3/4" 100 yard 5 shot groups when unsuppressed, I'm getting no better than 8MOA when suppressed.

AAC: Did you re-zero your scope?

Me: ummm....how would re-zeroing the scope improve accuracy/group size?

AAC: *snark* Because you added a bunch of weight to the barrel, the harmonics are different, so you need to re-zero. that's why people have dope sheets.

Me: So...I can re-zero and move the center of that 8" group somewhere in the neighborhood of where I'm aiming...that doesn't change the fact it went for <1" to >8" when the 762-SD is added.

AAC: *snark* OK...send it in and we'll see what WE get.


I'd have been irritated, but not pissed if the answer was "Yeah, the 762-SD really isn't a great can for accuracy, it's meant for....<insert whatever a POS can is mean for>"
 
I usually clean my Spectre II every 5-600 rounds. Froglube it back up and have no trouble getting it apart. I hate your having trouble that would drive me crazy spending the $$ and kissing the ring so you could have one only to hate it.
 
And I admit, I get bored with them by time a couple hundred rds have gone thru them.

It would probably be different if I shot matches with them.
 
And I admit, I get bored with them by time a couple hundred rds have gone thru them.

It would probably be different if I shot matches with them.
Yeah, I don't have much interest in shooting more than 100rds with my rimfire pistol.

An AR-22 is a whole different beast. 25rd mag dumps add up. Bring a friend or two and you're over 200rds pretty quickly.
 
I think some suppressors just suck. My email exchange with AAC this week went like this:

Me: Hey there, I have an AAC 762-SD that is giving me very poor accuracy. Is there anything that can be done? From a rifle that produces 3/4" 100 yard 5 shot groups when unsuppressed, I'm getting no better than 8MOA when suppressed.

AAC: Did you re-zero your scope?

Me: ummm....how would re-zeroing the scope improve accuracy/group size?

AAC: *snark* Because you added a bunch of weight to the barrel, the harmonics are different, so you need to re-zero. that's why people have dope sheets.

Me: So...I can re-zero and move the center of that 8" group somewhere in the neighborhood of where I'm aiming...that doesn't change the fact it went for <1" to >8" when the 762-SD is added.

AAC: *snark* OK...send it in and we'll see what WE get.


I'd have been irritated, but not pissed if the answer was "Yeah, the 762-SD really isn't a great can for accuracy, it's meant for....<insert whatever a POS can is mean for>"

They aren’t bad cans, but they’re not great precision cans. I don’t recommend 51T anything anymore. The M42K was the only kid on the block besides an NT4 or a HALO, not only that, but the degrees between teeth in the mount (51 teeth and 360 degrees) just means there won’t be lockup all the time. AAC has been getting the same phone calls for years, unfortunately Tim. But they don’t update their cans
 
They aren’t bad cans, but they’re not great precision cans. I don’t recommend 51T anything anymore. The M42K the only kid on the block besides an NT4 or a HALO, not only that, but the degrees between teeth in the mount (51 teeth and 360 degrees) just means there won’t be lockup all the time. AAC has been getting the same phone calls for years, unfortunately Tim. But they don’t update their cans


Fortunately, I picked up my Omega on Weds! That'll go direct thread on the bolt gun and AR 10. I'll leave the 762-SD on my 300BLK SBR

But....no comment on the "re-zero your scope" line of bull?
 
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Fortunately, I picked up my Omega on Weds! That'll go direct thread on the bolt gun and AR 10. I'll leave the 762-SD on my 300BLK SBR

But....no comment on the "re-zero your scope" line of bull?

Yeah it’s pathetic. Using the same canned answer without listening to the question
 
Thanks for the responses and tips everybody. I now own a tube of dielectric grease and one of anti-seize, and if they sold Frog Lube at my local auto parts store I'd have one of those too. Trying the grease first. Man that stuff is weird, kind of like spreading a dense silicone sealant. I wonder how hard it will be to clean out, lol.

If neither of those work I will try Frog Lube. I resisted jumping on that bandwagon when everyone was raving about it because it seemed to me that every time a new wonder lube came out during the previous years they boasted a "molecular bond" to the metal and some were supposed to be applied under heat to facilitate the bonding. Militec comes to mind. Then I read a post from a metallurgist who claimed it was all bullshit, that no lubricant will ever bond to metal. So froglube just sounded like more of the same hype. Doesn't mean that it's not a great lube, but I'm always wary of lubes that say they require heat for some kind of molecular bonding, I think it just plays to a "ritual" that sucks you further in. Has anyone tested froglube applied w/ heat vs w/o heat?
 
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Thanks for the responses and tips everybody. I now own a tube of dielectric grease and one of anti-seize, and if they sold Frog Lube at my local auto parts store I'd have one of those too. Trying the grease first. Man that stuff is weird, kind of like spreading a dense silicone sealant. I wonder how hard it will be to clean out, lol.

If neither of those work I will try Frog Lube. I resisted jumping on that bandwagon when everyone was raving about it because it seemed to me that every time a new wonder lube came out during the previous years they boasted a "molecular bond" to the metal and some were supposed to be applied under heat to facilitate the bonding. Militec comes to mind. Then I read a post from a metallurgist who claimed it was all bullshit, that no lubricant will ever bond to metal. So froglube just sounded like more of the same hype. Doesn't mean that it's not a great lube, but I'm always wary of lubes that say they require heat for some kind of molecular bonding, I think it just plays to a "ritual" that sucks you further in. Has anyone tested froglube applied w/ heat vs w/o heat?


Dielectric grease is gummy for sure but I haven’t had it break down. I’ve used it for years in 9mm and .22. My cleaning procedure involves nitrile gloves (must have!!), paper towels, maybe a pick for really large buildup, and long qtips to spread to the depth of the can

I quit using frog lube in firearms; I had it gum up in some pistols and firing pin channels.

Not sure how it would do in a can especially around booster pistons. Would really cold FL cause the booster to operate slowly and cause a stoppage?
 
Not the same suppressor..... but I put a light coat of copper anti-seize throughout the tube, baffles and threads. It might be overkill, but I haven't had any problems.
 
Yeah it’s pathetic. Using the same canned answer without listening to the question
Dang. This makes me sad since my this is the next can out of jail.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Dang. This makes me sad since my this is the next can out of jail.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I have been trying to steer people away from 51T for years. And the 556/762SDs were bigger and heavier than the M42K and SDN6....they just made them cheaper. I honestly haven’t seen AAC try to earn anything new from the centerfire rifle crowd beyond the market share they earned with the M4-1/2000.
 
I have been trying to steer people away from 51T for years. And the 556/762SDs were bigger and heavier than the M42K and SDN6....they just made them cheaper. I honestly haven’t seen AAC try to earn anything new from the centerfire rifle crowd beyond the market share they earned with the M4-1/2000.
I'll probably do the same and look for a 300blk sbr to put it on.
 
Don’t get me wrong, they’re not BAD cans. But there’s just so many more options now
 
I too use frog lube on my SS Sparrow half tubes along with Octane9 baffles and it works great.
 
I think some suppressors just suck. My email exchange with AAC this week went like this:

Me: Hey there, I have an AAC 762-SD that is giving me very poor accuracy. Is there anything that can be done? From a rifle that produces 3/4" 100 yard 5 shot groups when unsuppressed, I'm getting no better than 8MOA when suppressed.

AAC: Did you re-zero your scope?

Me: ummm....how would re-zeroing the scope improve accuracy/group size?

AAC: *snark* Because you added a bunch of weight to the barrel, the harmonics are different, so you need to re-zero. that's why people have dope sheets.

Me: So...I can re-zero and move the center of that 8" group somewhere in the neighborhood of where I'm aiming...that doesn't change the fact it went for <1" to >8" when the 762-SD is added.

AAC: *snark* OK...send it in and we'll see what WE get.


I'd have been irritated, but not pissed if the answer was "Yeah, the 762-SD really isn't a great can for accuracy, it's meant for....<insert whatever a POS can is mean for>"
Funny because that's exactly what AAC said about the SDN6 having the same poor accuracy.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/7-62SDN6/20-482032/&page=1&anc=4848827#i4848827
 
Just thought I'd drop back in here and give a hearty thanks to everyone. That dielectric grease is a godsend. I love my suppressor again! Not only does it keep it from seizing up it makes it easier to clean. No more scraping and scrubbing with a stainless chore boy and solvent, it seems to prevent fouling from cementing itself to the sleeve, or at least it hasn't been a problem anymore so far. Just wipe clean, re-apply and go. Thanks again!
 
Here's another idea...DOT 5 brake fluid/silicon oil. The article link is dead, but lots of discussion here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Brake_Fluid_pre_treatment_/20-442327/

Just need to find a way to heat the stuff up without stinking up the house. :D

Article was mainly for rimfire cans, but the theory should hold true for anything that creates buildup, even if it's just carbon.
 
I think some suppressors just suck. My email exchange with AAC this week went like this:

Me: Hey there, I have an AAC 762-SD that is giving me very poor accuracy. Is there anything that can be done? From a rifle that produces 3/4" 100 yard 5 shot groups when unsuppressed, I'm getting no better than 8MOA when suppressed.

AAC: Did you re-zero your scope?

Me: ummm....how would re-zeroing the scope improve accuracy/group size?

AAC: *snark* Because you added a bunch of weight to the barrel, the harmonics are different, so you need to re-zero. that's why people have dope sheets.

Me: So...I can re-zero and move the center of that 8" group somewhere in the neighborhood of where I'm aiming...that doesn't change the fact it went for <1" to >8" when the 762-SD is added.

AAC: *snark* OK...send it in and we'll see what WE get.


I'd have been irritated, but not pissed if the answer was "Yeah, the 762-SD really isn't a great can for accuracy, it's meant for....<insert whatever a POS can is mean for>"

Just a couple reasons I have not gotten an AAC can. Well that and I am broke as poop lol
 
Here's another idea...DOT 5 brake fluid/silicon oil. The article link is dead, but lots of discussion here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Brake_Fluid_pre_treatment_/20-442327/

Just need to find a way to heat the stuff up without stinking up the house. :D

Article was mainly for rimfire cans, but the theory should hold true for anything that creates buildup, even if it's just carbon.
I had also read about that and tried it, even with the heat. It worked no better than other oils for me, which was not at all.
 
But....no comment on the "re-zero your scope" line of bull?

Some people just don't get the idea. Like when I'm tuning my daughters bow. It took a couple years to get her to understand I didn't care about "accuracy" we were working on "grouping". I don't think some folks understand the difference. If I can get a group, then I just move the sight over to the target. If I can't get a group, what's the point? Same thing when I was trying out different .22 ammo on her rifle. I'm not zeroing in every ammo. I'll shoot groups, pick the best group, then zero for that round. Makes you wonder if their CS people are even gun people.

And holy resurrected thread Batman. lol
 
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I think some suppressors just suck. My email exchange with AAC this week went like this:

Me: Hey there, I have an AAC 762-SD that is giving me very poor accuracy. Is there anything that can be done? From a rifle that produces 3/4" 100 yard 5 shot groups when unsuppressed, I'm getting no better than 8MOA when suppressed.

AAC: Did you re-zero your scope?

Me: ummm....how would re-zeroing the scope improve accuracy/group size?

AAC: *snark* Because you added a bunch of weight to the barrel, the harmonics are different, so you need to re-zero. that's why people have dope sheets.

Me: So...I can re-zero and move the center of that 8" group somewhere in the neighborhood of where I'm aiming...that doesn't change the fact it went for <1" to >8" when the 762-SD is added.

AAC: *snark* OK...send it in and we'll see what WE get.


I'd have been irritated, but not pissed if the answer was "Yeah, the 762-SD really isn't a great can for accuracy, it's meant for....<insert whatever a POS can is mean for>"

@Tim

Same can as you. I was sighting in my new scope today. The pictures below were from the same gun, same box of ammo, same shooter, & bench rested. @25 yards



IMG_20180917_170415.jpg
IMG_20180917_170412.jpg
 
@Tim

Same can as you. I was sighting in my new scope today. The pictures below were from the same gun, same box of ammo, same shooter, & bench rested. @25 yards



View attachment 74882
View attachment 74881


Funny you bring this up today. I'm planning a range trip this Friday and am bringing along the 300BO with the AAC 762-SD. I did some reading and ended up getting a specific o-ring to go on the 51t mount. With the 0-ring in place, I then used a strap wrench to get the can mounted. There's no way at all that I have any slack left in that mount now.

We'll see if it actually makes a difference. Range report Friday evening.
 
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