Why does rimfire lead up suppressors so bad?

Flashpoint

Flashpoint

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I ask because the only rimfire I'm shooting now is 22 mag through my CMR-30, and just 100rds will lead my 9mm can up so bad I have to beat it apart. 22 mag bullets are jacketed like centerfire bullets so it must be from the priming compound?

On a related note, are dedicated rimfire cans built with more space between the cylinder and the core so they don't fuse together so quickly? My can sucks for rimfire, I've just quit suppressing my CMR altogether.
 
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This is why the Sparrow is so popular.
it has a clamshelll around the core so no lead gets in the tube. It takes down with only finger pressure after 1000's of rounds.

​​​​​​Subsonic ammo leads my cans up much less than supers.
 
Aside from a very few loads rimfire is not a jacketed round and the lead vapors from unjacketed rounds dep quicker.
 
I hate the way my Sparrow comes apart, and maybe even worse how it goes back together.

I much prefer a shielded baffle stack like the Spectre.

OP...I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "between the cylinder and the core". What 9mm can are you using?
 
BigWaylon;n97877 said:
I hate the way my Sparrow comes apart, and maybe even worse how it goes back together.

I much prefer a shielded baffle stack like the Spectre.

OP...I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "between the cylinder and the core". What 9mm can are you using?
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It's essentially this. The lead builds up between the cylinder and the solid sides of the core. The core is a tight fit. The lead is easy to clean from the core, not so much for the inside of the cylinder. I'm just not going to use it for rimfire anymore. It's aluminum, so no dipping.
 
BigWaylon;n97877 said:
I hate the way my Sparrow comes apart, and maybe even worse how it goes back together.

I much prefer a shielded baffle stack like the Spectre.

OP...I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "between the cylinder and the core". What 9mm can are you using?
Click to expand...

It's essentially this. The lead builds up between the cylinder and the solid sides of the core. The core is a tight fit. The lead is easy to clean from the core, not so much from the inside of the cylinder. I'm just not going to use it for rimfire anymore. It's aluminum, so no dipping.

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I am sure there are other products just as good but I use FIREClean on my cans. Pretreating really works for me and I have no problems with disassembly.
 
Flashpoint;n97991 said:
It's essentially this. The lead builds up between the cylinder and the solid sides of the core. The core is a tight fit. The lead is easy to clean from the core, not so much from the inside of the cylinder. I'm just not going to use it for rimfire anymore. It's aluminum, so no dipping.
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Gotcha...so it's building up on the inside of the tube, which prevents the monocore from sliding out easily.

Not it sure if treating all of it with silicone oil would help or not, but it seems to help clean up of baffles.

I wondered at some point if with a can of that design you could wrap foil around the core before you slid it in. Since it would be pressed against the inside of the tube, I thought it might hold up. I never tried it, but IIRC I convinced jkupp2000 to give it shot...but it didn't last very long.
 
I treat my 9mm baffles and my .22 cores with a light coating of dielectric grease (found at Advance/ Auto Zone, etc), as well as the threads that hold the end caps, booster piston & spring.

I have never had the core or baffles get stuck, and a simple wipe down with a paper towel.m will suffice. Nothin to it!
 
11B CIB;n98010 said:
I treat my 9mm baffles and my .22 cores with a light coating of dielectric grease (found at Advance/ Auto Zone, etc), as well as the threads that hold the end caps, booster piston & spring.

I have never had the core or baffles get stuck, and a simple wipe down with a paper towel.m will suffice. Nothin to it!
Click to expand...

Are you shooting rimfire through it?
 
BigWaylon;n98004 said:
Gotcha...so it's building up on the inside of the tube, which prevents the monocore from sliding out easily.

Not it sure if treating all of it with silicone oil would help or not, but it seems to help clean up of baffles.

I wondered at some point if with a can of that design you could wrap foil around the core before you slid it in. Since it would be pressed against the inside of the tube, I thought it might hold up. I never tried it, but IIRC I convinced jkupp2000 to give it shot...but it didn't last very long.
Click to expand...

Tried the Dot5 silicone, no improvement over my normal oil. Actually just this last time did I notice the amount of lead that had built up in the cylinder, I don't think I had been getting it completely clean before so I'm sure that had something to do with it. Maybe I'll put a brass brush on a cleaning rod in the drill or something to get the rest of it out of the middle of the cylinder.
 
I would if the new copper 22 will be as dirty?

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 
You could just get a cylinder hone and clean the walls In 15 seconds with some wd40 and a drill. Ask me how I know?
 
Lucky13bullets;n99090 said:
i don't see 22 doing it any worse than if you shot lead 9mm or 45....

many of the lead bullets we recovered in pistol calibers don't show signs of lead melting... its charred, but when you wipe the charring off the base is intact... same with jacketed bullets...

honestly i haven't noticed a difference in my 300blk being any more or less dirty than my 22 when i clean the suppressors
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It could be that since I didn't notice the majority of the fouling in the cylinder until recently that it's been leading up so fast simply because I haven't been cleaning it adequately. I decided to shoot only centerfire through it this go round just to see if it binds up again (after being liberally coated with silicone oil like last time) but I haven't shot enough through it yet to find out.
 
Is anyone using the "dip" to clean their 22lr cans? If so, what are you doing with it after the lead comes off? That stuff is supposed to be hardcore. I thought I read somewhere that you can use baking soda or similar to neutralize the chemicals. I plan to pre-treat my can after i get it squeaky clean.
 
I don't have a suppressor yet, so I can't comment on cleaning them, but I have noticed a big difference in how dirty a gun gets between shooting FMJ and TMJ ammo. The total metal jacket stuff leaves a gun far cleaner. I guess because no melted lead gets in the barrel.
 
Unknownpro said:
You could just get a cylinder hone and clean the walls In 15 seconds with some wd40 and a drill. Ask me how I know?
Click to expand...
I have thought about this for a while, as the brass cleaning brush I use on the drill doesn't quite get the job done. The past few times I've cleaned my .22 suppressor it has been really difficult to disassemble because of the lead ridges that have formed between the baffles. I just ordered a 320 grit from McMaster-Carr, hopefully that will take care of it.
 
RockRiver said:
I have thought about this for a while, as the brass cleaning brush I use on the drill doesn't quite get the job done. The past few times I've cleaned my .22 suppressor it has been really difficult to disassemble because of the lead ridges that have formed between the baffles. I just ordered a 320 grit from McMaster-Carr, hopefully that will take care of it.
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Did you just measure the ID of the tube and buy the appropriate sized hone or use the 3 blade adjustable style hone?
 
Slacker said:
Did you just measure the ID of the tube and buy the appropriate sized hone or use the 3 blade adjustable style hone?
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Okay so I just got home and the hone was already here (gotta love McMaster). I think I should have ordered the next size smaller. McMaster says get the next size up from what it measures if they don't have that exact one. ID of checkmate is 0.900" I ordered 15/16 (.9375"). I know it's supposed to be a bit big so that there is proper outward pressure, but it seemed excessive. The hone measured 1.07". I had to load it down with wd-40 and really shove it in there a little while spinning, back it out, and repeat. I finally got the whole thing in there but it just seemed too tight.

It did work great though:
aaf2cdf565b214b52c5619615a2c02b9.jpg


After it is very smooth inside. I think 320 grit was a good choice.
b523f21866c2a16aac40521a2347a6d3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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RockRiver said:
Okay so I just got home and the hone was already here (gotta love McMaster). I think I should have ordered the next size smaller. McMaster says get the next size up from what it measures if they don't have that exact one. ID of checkmate is 0.900" I ordered 15/16 (.9375"). I know it's supposed to be a bit big so that there is proper outward pressure, but it seemed excessive. The hone measured 1.07". I had to load it down with wd-40 and really shove it in there a little while spinning, back it out, and repeat. I finally got the whole thing in there but it just seemed too tight.

It did work great though:
aaf2cdf565b214b52c5619615a2c02b9.jpg


After it is very smooth inside. I think 320 grit was a good choice.
b523f21866c2a16aac40521a2347a6d3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think this is my plan for my Zephyr can.
Wish I had known there were better designs available.
 
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