Zero help

Amps 13

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The good news: Received (bought and gave to wife to give me) a Eotech 512 for Christmas and went to Uwarrie shooting range to site her on ontop of my AR-15.
target1.jpg
Ignore the tap since I poached these targets. I walked these in at 25 yards.
target 2.jpg
I felt this was a pretty good result for me and was happy.
The problem: The range that I shoot at most of the time has only 65, 75, 100 & 125 yard available on their rifle range.
Should I change my zero to fifty, keep it at 25 and just adjust or what? You all are a lot better at this then me so I am sure you will have the answer.
 
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It always comes back to "whatcha gonna do with it?"

Here's what my 75gr load would look like with a 25yd zero.

Rifle: BPM 18'' AR / BURRIS 1.5-8 XTR II
Zero distance, yards, 25.0
Twist Rate, inches, 8.0
Scope height, inches, 2.69
Vertical click, MRAD: 0.100 (0.34 MOA)
Horizontal click, MRAD: 0.100 (0.34 MOA)
Reticle: XTR 2 Ballistic 5.56 Gen3 (Burris)
Reticle is in the First Focal Plane (FFP)
Weather
Temperature, 84.0°F
Pressure, mmHg, 28.0
Humidity, %, 19
Wind speed, mph, 0.0
Wind direction, degrees, 0.0
Distance, yards Vert. correction, inch Vert. correction, MRAD
50.0 -2.38 -1.3
75.0 -4.45 -1.6
100.0 -6.20 -1.7
125.0 -7.61 -1.7
150.0 -8.67 -1.6
175.0 -9.37 -1.5
200.0 -9.73 -1.4
225.0 -9.67 -1.2
250.0 -9.19 -1.0
275.0 -8.28 -0.8
300.0 -6.92 -0.6
325.0 -5.09 -0.4
350.0 -2.78 -0.2
375.0 -0.08 -0.0
400.0 3.27 0.2
425.0 7.18 0.5
450.0 11.68 0.7
475.0 16.79 1.0
500.0 22.54 1.3
 
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It always comes back to "whatcha gonna do with it?"

Here's what my 75gr load would look like with a 25yd zero.

Rifle: BPM 18'' AR / BURRIS 1.5-8 XTR II
Zero distance, yards, 25.0
Twist Rate, inches, 8.0
Scope height, inches, 2.69
Vertical click, MRAD: 0.100 (0.34 MOA)
Horizontal click, MRAD: 0.100 (0.34 MOA)
Reticle: XTR 2 Ballistic 5.56 Gen3 (Burris)
Reticle is in the First Focal Plane (FFP)
Weather
Temperature, 84.0°F
Pressure, mmHg, 28.0
Humidity, %, 19
Wind speed, mph, 0.0
Wind direction, degrees, 0.0
Distance, yards Vert. correction, inch Vert. correction, MRAD
50.0 -2.38 -1.3
75.0 -4.45 -1.6
100.0 -6.20 -1.7
125.0 -7.61 -1.7
150.0 -8.67 -1.6
175.0 -9.37 -1.5
200.0 -9.73 -1.4
225.0 -9.67 -1.2
250.0 -9.19 -1.0
275.0 -8.28 -0.8
300.0 -6.92 -0.6
325.0 -5.09 -0.4
350.0 -2.78 -0.2
375.0 -0.08 -0.0
400.0 3.27 0.2
425.0 7.18 0.5
450.0 11.68 0.7
475.0 16.79 1.0
500.0 22.54 1.3
Basically range shooting unless a roving band of looters come down the street. Not normally used for HD since I feel more comfortable with my handgun. Thanks for the response
 
Lol, they are actually not pink but do look it in the pics. That would look a little weird if I had pink targets along with my pink AR..
I assumed it was a phone photo, I still snickered :)
They do it to me frequently when I take pictures of paperwork in low light, they're either blue or pink.
 
Interesting comments, too, and worth the read.

Probably not going to buy a 20" heavy bull barrel for my red dot carbine, personally. But some interesting info for sure.
Agreed. Gonna keep my 16" barrel right where it is but found it a good read.
 
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I would do a 50 yard zero for now.
Then, first chance I got I would make it a 200 yard zero.

Just my opinion.
200yd zero?! At that distance wind becomes a factor when trying to set zero...

50/200 or 36/300 "battle zeros" are most practical for .223/5.56 imo
 
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200yd zero?! At that distance wind becomes a factor when trying to set zero...

50/200 or 36/300 "battle zeros" are most practical for .223/5.56 imo

It becomes a factor if there is wind. If there is no wind it is not a factor.

200 yards is not far, even for a red dot or open sights. A 50 yard zero is not a 200 yard zero, imo. There are things that do not show up at 50 yards that become apparent at 200 yards.
 
It becomes a factor if there is wind. If there is no wind it is not a factor.

200 yards is not far, even for a red dot or open sights. A 50 yard zero is not a 200 yard zero, imo. There are things that do not show up at 50 yards that become apparent at 200 yards.
I swear I'm more accurate with open sights at 200 vs a magnified optic. I've always shot open and really just now getting into longer distance stuff.
 
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I run 250 yard zero based on a lot of recommendations form other 3 gun shooters. It is basically a dead hold on a 8in target from 50 yards to 300 yards and plate high hold at 400 yards, about 1.5 mil if using a mil dot reference.
 
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I run 250 yard zero based on a lot of recommendations form other 3 gun shooters. It is basically a dead hold on a 8in target from 50 yards to 300 yards and plate high hold at 400 yards, about 1.5 mil if using a mil dot reference.

I've actually considered just zeroing at 300 off my 300yard hashmark. Couple 3gun guys do that, too.
 
I swear I'm more accurate with open sights at 200 vs a magnified optic. I've always shot open and really just now getting into longer distance stuff.

Wish I was better with iron sights.
I have a lot to learn, and I'm a newb at distance, too.

Nothing I say are my bright ideas. They come from people way better than me. I just found they work for me. I started out with a 50yrd zero and a lot of 150+ yard misses! Found how important knowing where your "cone of fire" is hitting, and found the only way to do that was further out when they are coming back down. Can't just hit the 50 yard lane and punch a little group to be zeroed, at least I can't!
 
Wish I was better with iron sights.
I have a lot to learn, and I'm a newb at distance, too.

Nothing I say are my bright ideas. They come from people way better than me. I just found they work for me. I started out with a 50yrd zero and a lot of 150+ yard misses! Found how important knowing where your "cone of fire" is hitting, and found the only way to do that was further out when they are coming back down. Can't just hit the 50 yard lane and punch a little group to be zeroed, at least I can't!
Ill echo this. I always thought zero it close, and then at distance it should be hitting the same spot. After take a class with Boyette he showed that wasnt the case. We did close zero, moved to distance and adjust as needed, then move back to the close distance to show we are still hitting where we should be.
 
Ill echo this. I always thought zero it close, and then at distance it should be hitting the same spot. After take a class with Boyette he showed that wasnt the case. We did close zero, moved to distance and adjust as needed, then move back to the close distance to show we are still hitting where we should be.

Actually, Boyette has a great read on this. Establishing "cone of fire" and zero. It helped me understand it when I read it. Couple years ago so not sure where I read it, I think he posted it on old, old forum.
 
I've actually considered just zeroing at 300 off my 300yard hashmark. Couple 3gun guys do that, too.


Yeah 300 yards is not as good balistically for the heavier bullets. Plus we have mildot reticles so it is easy to do holds past 300 yards.
 
Ill echo this. I always thought zero it close, and then at distance it should be hitting the same spot. After take a class with Boyette he showed that wasnt the case. We did close zero, moved to distance and adjust as needed, then move back to the close distance to show we are still hitting where we should be.


Yep we zero our rifles at 50 yards to get on paper. THen using our muzzle velocity and a good balistic calculator we see what the actual dope for 50 yards is with a 250 yard zero and then adjust our scopes to hit that spot. Once we have that then we confirm / fine tune at 250 yards. Much easier to do that than to just start at 250 yds.
 
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Yeah 300 yards is not as good balistically for the heavier bullets. Plus we have mildot reticles so it is easy to do holds past 300 yards.

I am talking about taking a scope designed for a 200 yard zero, and verifying the zero at 300 yards using the 300 yard hashmark on the scope. Not doing a 300 yard zero off the crosshair.

So then I know my 300 yard hash mark is dead nuts with my ammo, but still utilizing the 200 yard zero the scope was designed for.
 
I am talking about taking a scope designed for a 200 yard zero, and verifying the zero at 300 yards using the 300 yard hashmark on the scope. Not doing a 300 yard zero off the crosshair.

So then I know my 300 yard hash mark is dead nuts with my ammo, but still utilizing the 200 yard zero the scope was designed for.


I know what you meant. Those BDC scopes are generally designed for M193 ammo. So if you zero on a match grain ammo like 75gr Hornady Steel Match your other hash marks will not be correct. We use the 75gr steel match and it is great, cheaper than reloading it for over 100 yards. Then use cheap 55gr reloads on paper stuff in bays or on burn'em stages. The 55gr is close enough at 50 to 100 yards the 250 yard 75gr zero is not a factor.
 
I know what you meant. Those BDC scopes are generally designed for M193 ammo. So if you zero on a match grain ammo like 75gr Hornady Steel Match your other hash marks will not be correct. We use the 75gr steel match and it is great, cheaper than reloading it for over 100 yards. Then use cheap 55gr reloads on paper stuff in bays or on burn'em stages. The 55gr is close enough at 50 to 100 yards the 250 yard 75gr zero is not a factor.

Interesting. Is this in a 1/9 or 1/7 barrel?
 
I know what you meant. Those BDC scopes are generally designed for M193 ammo. So if you zero on a match grain ammo like 75gr Hornady Steel Match your other hash marks will not be correct. We use the 75gr steel match and it is great, cheaper than reloading it for over 100 yards. Then use cheap 55gr reloads on paper stuff in bays or on burn'em stages. The 55gr is close enough at 50 to 100 yards the 250 yard 75gr zero is not a factor.

I zeroed using 75 grain as well.

All hashmarks will be incorrect no matter what you do with a BDC, unless you loaded a particular round for a particluar barrel, wouldn't it?
Which is why I want to know exactly where to hold at 300, because if I use that BDC mark, I am only stretching the 200 yard zero very slightly. But I know at 300 (where I have more difficulty) my bdc is dead on, and if it is less so at 200, it is only slightly.
 
I zeroed using 75 grain as well.

All hashmarks will be incorrect no matter what you do with a BDC, unless you loaded a particular round for a particluar barrel, wouldn't it?
Which is why I want to know exactly where to hold at 300, because if I use that BDC mark, I am only stretching the 200 yard zero very slightly. But I know at 300 (where I have more difficulty) my bdc is dead on, and if it is less so at 200, it is only slightly.


Yep absolutely right, that is why I said most BDC reticles are set for m193 ammo. 55gr at around 3200fps.

What you are doing is essentially the same as what I am doing except we choose 250 since we are not limited with pre-existing hash marks. Our zero is dead nuts at 250. 300 yards gets almost any 3 gun target out there with the exception of a few targets out to 400 yards. Those are only 1 or 2 usually in any given match and we know the holds for that range, 1.5 mil or basically hold center at top of plate. Makes for real fast shooting and not having to worry about holds at anything under 300 yards.

Other huge advantage is the 250 zero also removes the second focal plane reticle of the scope from the equation. Only time I have to worry about it and being at max mag (this is the only magnification that the mildots are accurate at) is if I am using the mildots. Again for anything out to 400 yards I can use the center dot and it does not care what magnification I am at.

Both of our rifles are the same twist, length, scope and zero. So we can pick up each others rifle and not have to make any adjustments. They shoot with in 50 fps of each other.
 
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I swear I'm more accurate with open sights at 200 vs a magnified optic. I've always shot open and really just now getting into longer distance stuff.
I wish my range had that much distance. Would love to stretch my legs a little and would love to get a good scope for it but my range only goes out to 125
 
I wish my range had that much distance. Would love to stretch my legs a little and would love to get a good scope for it but my range only goes out to 125

Looks like yer in Greensboro?
Not to far from my range and could help you get a better look out to 300 if you want. Get you a solid zero you can depend on.

Shoot me a PM if you like.
 
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