L
Lawless
Guest
We need a thread for all those little things we do that don't get their own thread. Pictures are good but not necessary.
Butter;n24380 said:I wish those little batteries lasted longer
spittinfire;n26191 said:Does it have to be personal projects or can it paying gigs?
If it's paying gigs I tore down a Ford 9" to find out why it was making noise. I found it to be full of dirt and the gear not set up properly. Destroyed itself in less then 100 miles.
DirtySCREW;n27278 said:Pics? Just curious what it looked like. ....
DS
Lawless;n24259 said:Yesterday, I tore down my Husqvarna 359 saw for several reasons. It's a GREAT saw with lots of power but it has developed a couple of issues.
The original 20" bar is worn out. Time for a new one. Going with a 24" Husky bar and ordered 3 Oregon 3/8-.050 (84link) full chisel chains for the 24" bar. This has not arrived yet.
One thing that bugs me was that if you leave it sitting, a puddle of bar lube would form under it. I found a post online somewhere that addresses this issue. It seems the rubber tube that feeds the little oil pump can shrink a little and cause this lube on the ground problem. The solution is to remove the bar, clutch, pump gear and pump to access this tube.
This video show a little of the process. He used super glue and a new tube, but I read of many folks reusing the tube with RTV.
[video=youtube;2Okolp2kKrQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Okolp2kKrQ[/video]
I began by removing the bar and chain, then I removed the spark plug and rotated the engine until the piston was down. I stuffed some rope in the cylinder and rotated the engine clockwise until it stopped. Then I used two adjustable wrenches to remove the clutch, it just turns off once loosened.
Then the assorted other stuff is just removed to get to the leaky tube. Once I had it out, I cleaned it well with brake cleaner and cleaned the hole that it sits in in the oil tank. I then used some black ultra RTV on the connection making sure no excess goes into the tank, and put it all back together (except the bar/chain).
While I had it on the bench, I decided to open up the muffler a bit. These Etech saws have a catalytic converter like a car, I kid you not.... These cats will cause the saws to get very hot under hard extended use. May articles online address this by cutting a 3/4" hole in the side of the muffler before the cat part, and making a little deflector just like the factory exit. It was really easy and after tuning the saw it is said it will gain around a 1000 rpm and more torque everywhere. Many report it feels like a complete animal, we will see....it already has tons of power but with the new longer bar it's a good mod.
Here is a good set of pics/description on the muffler mod. I used sheetmetal to make my deflector instead of this guys pipe but same same. I used just a little hi-temp RTV under my deflector and steel rivets to attach it to the muffler. I cannot wait to get the new bar on it and here this opened up exhaust.
Lawless;n32709 said:I put the new bar and chain on the 359 this afternoon and tuned the carb due to the new ported muffler.
Man it sounds good! It looks like an absolute beast with the 24" bar. Will snap a pic tomorrow.
What rig you converting brother? Your truck is already 4x4 aint it?Diablos said:I'll be picking up an axle and converting the rig to 4wd. Lockers are in the plans as well. These things go nowhere in the snow out here.
Nope, I'll never need that. Famous last words...Diablos said:I'll be picking up an axle and converting the rig to 4wd. Lockers are in the plans as well. These things go nowhere in the snow out here.
I bought my tires at sams club, let them rotate those heavy sob'smj1angier said:Well I have a long list that I need to do to my 2005 F-250 6.0. I got new shock to go all around, need to change oil, got to clean the misc crap out of the bed that gets up under the tool box, need to rotate tires, and just clean out the inside. I hope to get to it next week.
Or not.
It took a lot longer than normal to find that and luck played a role in it. On most jobs there is a labor guide that is used by most shops that lists a time each job is supposed to take. That is normally what the customer is billed. Electrical and diagnostics are different because so many different unexpected things like that can play in to it. Most jobs go as planned but there are jobs we lose on. Some jobs we beat the time and make a little more money and some we go over and lose some. Getting to know your tech and the shop can work out for you in the long run as people tend to get better deals if they are good customers or get worse ones if they are a pain in the ass. It really depends on the shop. I have worked for ones that would charge for every minute it took and others that try to make it fair for everyone and will take a loss on some wierd things like that. A good relationship with your local shop will pay off in the end as they know your cars history and yours. Friends always get treated better than strangers. It comes down to a bunch of different things if the tech can't figure out something simple that is common the shop loses. If the customer installs their own radio and burns the harness up it will probably cost more as that is purely on the customer and not the shop or it's employees skill level. We just try and keep it fair for both sides. The tech doesn't control how much your bill is, that is the owner or the service writer. Get to know them it will serve you well. I have customers that come and say Hi and others that do not give me the time of day. If I know you are a regular I might just fix a small thing that does not take long and not put it on your ticket. If you give me the how much longer look and act like I am cheating you then I will not go out of my way for you.Thanks for sharing that Short Fuse. I like to turn my own wrenches as much as possible but I have a lot of respect for what the professional have to know how to do. I do have one question, how do you bill out a job like that? I imagine there isn't a time table for removing a dime on a circuit board.