10 mm options
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I like the X-Ten better. I have smaller hands and it fits me much better. And I think the trigger is much better on the Sig as well.
My experiance, while the glock 20 is a satisfactory 10mm, go Sig Xten OR even better, FN 510T for striker fired. Though I'm not crazy about striker/poly 10mm. P220/1911 is the best way to utilize the capabilities of the cartridge.
I have throughly enjoyed my time with the 510T, a few different retailers had them on sale for $899 in march. So I'd keep an eye out for future sales/rebates, will only be more worth it with discounts.
I have throughly enjoyed my time with the 510T, a few different retailers had them on sale for $899 in march. So I'd keep an eye out for future sales/rebates, will only be more worth it with discounts.
Depends on what you're shooting. Off-the-shelf 10mm is wimpy. Handloaded 10mm can be pretty intense.
I have about a dozen 10mms spread across Glock 20s, Glock 40s, and 1911s. I tend to prefer the Glock 40s when I go to the range. The 1911s are fun, but they don't tame the recoil well (despite the steel frame) and they spit brass into the next county. Keep in mind that Glock accessories also tend to be more affordable.
This Redding full length die is super helpful to fix 10mm case bulges. All my 10mm brass goes through these and then an EGW chamber checker at the end. It’s just too risky to load 10mm without strict quality control measures…well at least that’s been my mileage.
Redding G-RX Carbide Base Sizing Die Kit 40 S&W, 357 Sig, 10mm Auto
The Redding G-Rx Carbide Base Sizing Die meets the need of the reloader needing to reload brass shot through some of the most popular autoloaders today....
www.midwayusa.com
Case Gauge Ammo Checker 10mm 7-hole
Our Case Gauge Ammo Checkers are machined from solid 6061 T6 aircraft grade aluminum.Our gauges are made to SAAMI miniumum spec.While some companies use boring bars to make chamber checkers, we use the actual Clymer reamers that are used to chamber barrel
egwguns.com
For 10mm 1911 I have found swapping in a flat firing pin stop and heavier mainspring (not recoil spring) helpful to slow down rearward slide travel. I’m really surprised how little “tuning” most 1911 manufacturers put into their 10mm variants. It seems most folks reach for a heavier recoil spring which could also help but I’d rather just slow down the slide’s rearward travel instead of shortening cycling time and having a harsh forward impulse.
I have both, both shoot great. I have large hands, I can grip both well. It really comes down to personal choice. For a while back in early 2000's I shot IDPA with a G20. The 10mm didn't hold me back at all.
I’ve used/carried the Rock Island 10mm 1911s to good effect in Alaska
Whichever platform you go with, either handload or buy from folks like Underwood or Buffalo Bore, as they are some of the exceedingly few manufacturers who load factory 10mm to what it should be
Most off the shelf 10mm is, unfortunate to say, which is a bit of a disservice to the caliber imo. The exceptions to that circumstance I’ve had the most experience with are Underwood and Buffalo Bore
I couldn’t quite tell you why they do it that way honestly. However, a glance at even just box ballistics was telling enough at the time for quick selection.
Out of 5in test barrels they mention using, Hornandy’s 175gr flextip load runs at 523ft/lbs of energy, compared to Underwood’s 625ft/lbs out of a nearly identical bullet weight (180gr), and Buffalo Bore’s nearly 700ft/lbs similarly for 180gr.
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CCW007
Well-Known Member
I just spent quite a bit of time looking for a 10mm I could carry as a woods hiking gun. I did quite a bit of research on different options and I thought I was going to get a Glock 29. I ended up getting the XD-M Elite 3.8. I know you mention full size but look at a few reviews. I did not expect to be getting a XD when I started looking for sure.
OP
I think i will just need to see which one fits my hands the best and i can point the best based on these responses. Pretty much what you can say about any gun purchase. I appreciate all the responses.
A small radius to break the edge, doesn't take much.
I like the Harrison ones for a small radius unit, but the Wilson ones are not bad either.
It makes a difference in ANY 1911, not just a 10mm.
commiecuriocollector
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah I follow there, I have always understood that is optimum, but for smooth functioning.
What I am trying to understand is by 92G leaving it flat, is that a strategy to slow down the slide recoiling impulse, ie making it harder to initially overcome, a normally undesirable characteristic, but with 10mm one that is unlikely to cause an issue.
I may be completely misreading here too, so please correct me if I am tracking wrong.
A completely flat "square" one would still work, but it would be a little stiffer.
Either way, small radius/flat firing pin stops change how quickly the slide goes all the way back during its cycle without altering how quickly it goes back into battery.
The mainspring can be tuned aswell, so your not messing with ridiculous recoil springs.
Also, the original 1911 had a small radius firing pin stop, it was changed in the 1911a1 because it was "easier" to cycle the slide by hand.
Try one on a .45, along with a 23lb mainspring, it really does make for a smooth shooting pistol.
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The flat (non rounded) FPS gets less leverage on the hammer, which in effect requires more rearward force to overcome the hammer. The problem is that is can be sort of tough to rack with the hammer down, but it definitely helped keep my 10mm brass from flinging into the next county and tamed the recoil impulse a bit. I’ve only used a flat FPS for the 10mm 1911 ad haven’t needed for other chamberings.
I’m far from an expert on pistol tuning, but enjoy tinkering within the limits of safety. My observation is the SAO action of a 1911 offers a range of tuning points probably because the springs act independently from each other. This is contrast to a striker action where the recoil spring must overcome the striker spring to achieve “cocking” upon battery. In the case of 10mm where energy can range from 400 to 700 ft-lbs, a one-size-fits-all setup is probably going to fall short. Thankfully the 1911 is so easy to tune the hammer spring and FPS that rearward slide travel can be delayed. Of course recoil isn’t technically changed, but the abruptness of recoil impulse from a rapidly moving slide can be addressed. Now one issue I’m not sure about is whether there’s any risk with upping the hammer spring. For example, could a stronger hammer spring allow the hammer to “out run” the sear and lead to hammer follow or worse…full auto. I doubt it but I don’t know. Looping in @John Travis as he can hopefully weigh in on this question.
Browning's original stop had a 5/64ths radius on the bottom corner. It was changed by the US Army in January 1918 to the now standard 7/32nds after complaints of the pistols being hard to manually cycle with the hammer down. Whenever I fit one, I go a little smaller...about 1/16th...though I've never measured it precisely, so it will vary a little...but 1/16th is close enough to call it that.
Yes, it adds to the slide's delay and thus reduces its velocity by adding extra resistance at the outset of the recoil phase, which bleeds off a little of the slide's momentum.
I'm responsible for getting this whole small radius stop thing started almost 20 years ago when I took one of EGW's oversized stops and cobbled one up for the owner of m1911.org to help him with a loose stop issue and mailed to to Greece. I cut it to the high end of tolerance because I didn't have his slide to fit it to, and just broke the bottom corner and swiped it on a stone until it radiused...my SOP. Like I said...nothing precise. Luckily, it dropped in and worked perfectly.
I discovered it about 50 years ago from cutting my teeth on old pistols, and liked its effect so much that when I ran out of gunshow junk parts box finds, I made my own. When George Smith started offering oversized stops with square bottom corners, I ordered them by the dozen.
About 10 days later, John started a thread titled "Amazing Reduction in Recoil" and it triggered a discussion that went on for more than 30 pages and over several months. I believe it's still up if anyone wants to go search, but you'll probably have to join before using the search command.
Yes. You can use a heavier hammer spring. Ned Christiansen routinely uses 25 pound springs in his 10mm builds, along with the small radius firing pin stop and 18 pound "recoil" springs.
PS
If you want softer recoil, drop the recoil spring a couple pounds. That's where about 90% of muzzle flip comes from.
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For those of us who do not hand load for the 10mm (yet), what factory loadings are recommended for “practice” as well as hunting? I’m planning on the acquisition of a 6” 1911 soon, and would like to check functionality with full power loads - ahead of the ability to load my own.
@John Travis thank you for the post. Very informative.
@45Smashemflat for 10mm load 180 gr XTP projectiles with accurate #9 or longshot. Both work well but AA#9 is superb especially with the increased case fill. I like AA#9 as it can also be used for 357 Sig or 44 magnum with good results. I mostly follow the western reloading guide, which is now also merged into the hodgdon reloading data. With the right loading, I would expect AA#9 to be able to achieve 1200 ft/s with a 200 grain bullet in a 6 inch barrel, which should do the trick if put in the right spot.
When I was in New England, I had a friend who hunted deer with a G31 (357 Sig) and swore by the cartridges performance. Whenever I asked about 10mm he cited his experience w 357 Sig. He is the reason I got into the chambering and reload it.
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For factory loads, I’ve found the Sig 10mm FMJ to be loaded appropriately…meaning 180 gr at 1250 ft/s. It might be the only factory FMJ “practice” load I’ve found that isn’t downloaded. For full power loads it’s going to be underwood ammo all day long especially for 10mm. Underwood also makes a range load that is good option.
@45Smashemflat for 10mm load 180 gr XTP projectiles with accurate #9 or longshot. Both work well but AA#9 is superb especially with the increased case fill. I like AA#9 as it can also be used for 357 Sig or 44 magnum with good results. I mostly follow the western reloading guide, which is now also merged into the hodgdon reloading data. With the right loading, I would expect AA#9 to be able to achieve 1200 ft/s with a 200 grain bullet in a 6 inch barrel, which should do the trick if put in the right spot.
When I was in New England, I had a friend who hunted deer with a G31 (357 Sig) and swore by the cartridges performance. Whenever I asked about 10mm he cited his experience w 357 Sig. He is the reason I got into the chambering and reload it.
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For factory loads, I’ve found the Sig 10mm FMJ to be loaded appropriately…meaning 180 gr at 1250 ft/s. It might be the only factory FMJ “practice” load I’ve found that isn’t downloaded. For full power loads it’s going to be underwood ammo all day long especially for 10mm. Underwood also makes a range load that is good option.
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Not a reloader....
But I'm actually liking the SW Performance Center 2.0 in 10 mm.
Ran couple boxes of the soft S+B just get a feel then a few mags if the good stuff- Buffalo Bore ...wish the Buffalo was affordable enough to shelf the softer S+B for range time!
I also have the Girsan Hunter in 10mm....it needs some work to come up to the SW😎
But I'm actually liking the SW Performance Center 2.0 in 10 mm.
Ran couple boxes of the soft S+B just get a feel then a few mags if the good stuff- Buffalo Bore ...wish the Buffalo was affordable enough to shelf the softer S+B for range time!
I also have the Girsan Hunter in 10mm....it needs some work to come up to the SW😎
I just saw this, and figgered I'd respond.
The hammer can't outrun the sear. The hammer doesn't fall back onto the sear until the slide is within a half inch of going to battery. The sear resets the instant the disconnect is pushed into the frame...while the slide is still moving backward.
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Dirtydirtysouf
Well-Known Member
M&P would be the way id go