1911 Build. In way over my head!

Criminalcamel

Criminalcamel

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Dec 19, 2016
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Surry County, NC
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OK, so per Fieldgrade's request, here is the full build saga. Palmetto State Armory had carbon steel frames for sale on black friday for 99 bucks. What's the worst that can happen right?

So I read up on the correct fitment of each piece I needed while I waited for PSA to get around to shipping my frame. I found PSA uses EGW (Evolution Gun works) sized .250 beavertails and series 70 internal parts. Rumor mill online says Remington also uses the EGW profile and CDNN just so happens to have a bunch of Remington parts for dirt cheap, so out comes the credit card again.

My plan was to try my hand at 20LPI checkering, have the frame coated, throw all the perfect fitting parts on it and have a nice IDPA blaster. I admit to having been accused of being optimistic once or twice in the past.

The Checkering actually turned out pretty nice after a large amount of trial and error. It takes for freaking ever and looked terrible until just before it was done and then it all came together. I stopped before getting all the way to the bottom of the file depth so the pyramids don't have points that completely eat my hands. A lumber jack I am not.

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So as I am feeling all confident in my non existent gun smithing skills after a decent checking job, all my parts come in......and NOTHING FITS.

The Beavertail was nowhere close...it sits way high where the safety pin goes through and way low down by the memory bump. I can send it back and try again with the 400 other beavertail fitments, but I have no idea where to start there......or I can try to make this guy work. Again, what's the worst that can happen.

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I was thinking hard about building a 9mm from a Caspian frame and slide last week. Even had a conversation with them. They will fit the slide to the frame for skinny money, but you have to buy the barrel and bushing from elsewhere, and even the “easy fit” barrels and bushings are not a guaranteed fit. I was reading about a guy struggling with lock-up that was too tight on another forum. Plus I’d have to tune the ejector on the 9mm myself, and I saw myself getting in way beyond my paygrade.
 
So 12 hours and a full variety pack of sand paper later, it actually looks pretty decent. Color me surprised, but I though the filing marks would never come completely out.

Mag well and mainspring housing are on the way as soon as Brownells ships them, so we'll see how badly I can butcher fitting those.
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Criminalcamel said:
So 12 hours later and a full variety pack of sand paper later, it actually looks pretty decent. Color me surprised, but I though the filing marks would never come completely out.

Mag well and mainspring housing are on the way as soon as Brownells ships them, so we'll see how badly I can butcher fitting those.
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What kind of magwell? The S&A’s generally drop in, although the newer machined ones have less tolerance than the older cast ones.
 
fieldgrade said:
What kind of magwell? The S&A’s generally drop in, although the newer machined ones have less tolerance than the older cast ones.
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I ordered the S&A. I have one on another 1911 and it does drop into this one. I ordered the smooth flat one and I am going to attempt to checker it all the way across the frame extensions. I may be a bit ambitious there. I really like the way this guy's backstrap looks, so I am going to give it a valiant try

 
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All beavertails worth having take fitting. I "built" a PSA a couple years back, the Remington GSs were OoS so I went EGW. Slapped a RIA upper from Sarco on there, turned out a pretty good shooter. Still plan to someday checker the front strap, and haven't bothered finishing. Oh the disco hole was BIG so I had to get an oversize ball head from somewhere to kill the hammer follow.

S&A magwell just had to be kissed with a file to fit the frame, but a good bit of blending to match.
 
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fieldgrade said:
I was thinking hard about building a 9mm from a Caspian frame and slide last week. Even had a conversation with them. They will fit the slide to the frame for skinny money, but you have to buy the barrel and bushing from elsewhere, and even the “easy fit” barrels and bushings are not a guaranteed fit. I was reading about a guy struggling with lock-up that was too tight on another forum. Plus I’d have to tune the ejector on the 9mm myself, and I saw myself getting in way beyond my paygrade.
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After watching some videos, the barrel to slide fit was way beyond my skill level. Throw the extractor tuning in there and I punted. I found a fantastic GunBroker deal on a complete Stainless Springer Loaded slide, so I grabbed that. My luck has not run out on this one yet, because the PSA frame and the Springer slide fit like they were made for each other. The fit is far and away better than my factory Smith E Series, so I was thrilled with that.
 
Criminalcamel said:
After watching some videos, the barrel to slide fit was way beyond my skill level. Throw the extractor tuning in there and I punted. I found a fantastic GunBroker deal on a complete Stainless Springer Loaded slide, so I grabbed that. My luck has not run out on this one yet, because the PSA frame and the Springer slide fit like they were made for each other. The fit is far and away better than my factory Smith E Series, so I was thrilled with that.
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Outstanding. And for whatever it’s worth, the S&A checkered mainspring housings with their magwells are 20LPI like your front strap checkering, if you decide to take a shortcut.
 
Beef15 said:
All beavertails worth having take fitting. I "built" a PSA a couple years back, the Remington GSs were OoS so I went EGW. Slapped a RIA upper from Sarco on there, turned out a pretty good shooter. Still plan to someday checker the front strap, and haven't bothered finishing. Oh the disco hole was BIG so I had to get an oversize ball head from somewhere to kill the hammer follow.

S&A magwell just had to be kissed with a file to fit the frame, but a good bit of blending to match.
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hahaha, this shows how far out of my depth I am here. Had to google what a 1911 Disco ball head was. The Remington disconnector CDNN had for cheap seems to fit the frame pretty well, so I may have lucked out there too.
 
Criminalcamel said:
So 12 hours and a full variety pack of sand paper later, it actually looks pretty decent. Color me surprised, but I though the filing marks would never come completely out.

Mag well and mainspring housing are on the way as soon as Brownells ships them, so we'll see how badly I can butcher fitting those.
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Looks great! Have you ever used cratex?
 
I'm still working on mine (1911 build) since 2011. Need to fit the ambi safety, have a standard safety in it now. However, I only work on it as time permits when I'm home.

CD
 
Combat Diver said:
I'm still working on mine (1911 build) since 2011. Need to fit the ambi safety, have a standard safety in it now. However, I only work on it as time permits when I'm home.

CD
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I was thinking mine would be a few month project, but it is looking like mine will be that long term too! I attempted to fit my safety last night, but I got a little too happy with the file and took too much off the sear engagement.....hammer fall to half cock when safe full on is no bueno. Back to the parts store I go.
 
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I expected a lot worse when I clicked this thread. That checkering looks great. You are certainly learning a lot going through it. I know you have to buy other parts and re-fit, but you are just paying for an education. I dont see a problem with that. Dont dishonor Surry County. WE expect a Wilson look alike when this is done.
 
Criminalcamel said:
I was thinking mine would be a few month project, but it is looking like mine will be that long term too! I attempted to fit my safety last night, but I got a little too happy with the file and took too much off the sear engagement.....hammer fall to half cock when safe full on is no bueno. Back to the parts store I go.
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What kind of safety do you want? I might have a few.
 
fieldgrade said:
What kind of safety do you want? I might have a few.
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Ahh I should go to the forum to see what people have laying around before I go to ordering parts! I grabbed a cheap non ambi off Amazon last night after I butchered the Remington one I had. The one I butchered was an ambi, but I think I like the single side better anyway.
 
Sneakymedic said:
I expected a lot worse when I clicked this thread. That checkering looks great. You are certainly learning a lot going through it. I know you have to buy other parts and re-fit, but you are just paying for an education. I dont see a problem with that. Dont dishonor Surry County. WE expect a Wilson look alike when this is done.
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HAHA...A Wilson it won't be, but I have learned alot...If I actually end up with a functioning gun, I will have started an addiction, because I have really enjoyed filing on this one thus far.

And don't worry about dishonoring Surry County. I have a nice can of Krylon Grill spray sitting here for the final finish. High Class all the way.
 
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Criminalcamel said:
Ahh I should go to the forum to see what people have laying around before I go to ordering parts! I grabbed a cheap non ambi off Amazon last night after I butchered the Remington one I had. The one I butchered was an ambi, but I think I like the single side better anyway.
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None of the extra ones I have are ambi, but neither are they “conventional”. They are either wide paddle, low lever, blued, black, stainless... I was trying to find what I liked best to ride the safety in matches, and whatever finish went with the gun
 
fieldgrade said:
None of the extra ones I have are ambi, but neither are they “conventional”. They are either wide paddle, low lever, blued, black, stainless... I was trying to find what I liked best to ride the safety in matches, and whatever finish went with the gun
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Yeah, I could get lost pretty quick in the options, so I just went with a standard profile.

Where do you shoot matches?
 
Sneakymedic said:
@fieldgrade I wish youd started with a cheaper donor frame and gave it a whirl.
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I stopped this Springer twice in last Saturday’s match inadvertently pressing on the slide stop pin. I guess during reloads when the slide was back.

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But tonight I flush cut it, and countersunk the frame. Not perfect, but good enough for this beat up Springer.
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Criminalcamel said:
Yeah, I could get lost pretty quick in the options, so I just went with a standard profile.

Where do you shoot matches?
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Dunn, NC, Sanford, NC, Clinton, NC and Brunswick county across the river from Wilmington.
All IDPA.
 
Sneakymedic said:
@fieldgrade I wish youd started with a cheaper donor frame and gave it a whirl.
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I'll probably give it another go if I get really bored this winter. I discovered in my slide-stop counter-sink project yesterday that 220 grit will replicate the brushed stainless finish on this Springer if I stray onto the flats, and @Mike V has a blast cabinet if I need to clean up the bead blasted surfaces. I’ll have to true up the front strap first after cleaning up the first checkering attempt since there will be low spots now, but I know how to do that with the flat straight edge of a stone to show the low/high spots, then file...
a bunch.
 
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This is pretty funny. I had the exact same problem with the slide stop bump and flattened it a few weeks ago. It came out pretty good and planted the idea I could build an entire gun. I couldn't counter sink it because the frame is cerakoted, but still got it pretty flat.

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fieldgrade said:
I'll probably give it another go if I get really bored this winter. I discovered in my slide-stop counter-sink project yesterday that 220 grit will replicate the brushed stainless finish on this Springer if I stray onto the flats, and @Mike V has a blast cabinet if I need to clean up the bead blasted surfaces. I’ll have to true up the front strap first after cleaning up the first checkering attempt since there will be low spots now, but I know how to do that with the flat straight edge of a stone to show the low/high spots, then file...
a bunch.
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I had a mark or two on an identical framed SA loaded I had, I used the green scotchbrite pad, and it worked wonders. I just had to make sure I stopped and started on a straight line when I rubbed it out. (hee hee, he said rubbed out)
 
fieldgrade said:
Dunn, NC, Sanford, NC, Clinton, NC and Brunswick county across the river from Wilmington.
All IDPA.
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Cool, I spent 4 years in Buies Creek, so I am familiar with the area. I just signed up for the Coastal Carolina Match at Ant Hill in Wilmington this Spring, so hopefully I can finish up the new build before then!
 
Criminalcamel said:
This is pretty funny. I had the exact same problem with the slide stop bump and flattened it a few weeks ago. It came out pretty good and planted the idea I could build an entire gun. I couldn't counter sink it because the frame is cerakoted, but still got it pretty flat.

IMG-1213.jpg
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I like that minimalist countersink. Looks Good!
 
Criminalcamel said:
Cool, I spent 4 years in Buies Creek, so I am familiar with the area. I just signed up for the Coastal Carolina Match at Ant Hill in Wilmington this Spring, so hopefully I can finish up the new build before then!
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That’s a nice range and a good match.
 
So here is Today's 1911 building lesson to myself. Test fit the ejector with the slide BEFORE you pin it.

I got the rear lug filed down, fit to the frame, cut the pin channel into the front lug perfectly and pinned the sucker. Put the slide on and find it rubs on the inside of the slide to the point where the slide will not go all the way on the frame anymore.... so now I have to either sand / buff it on the frame or drive the pin out, remove ejector, buff and then reinstall. GAH
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My other project last night came out pretty good. I plan to do 40LPI serrations on the rear of the slide to match the Warren Tactical rear sight. To get everything on the same plane for the checkering file, I had to file the extractor tail flat to the rear of the slide. It stuck WAY out, so it took a pretty significant amount of cutting

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So the UPS man brought me a 40LPI file and the server is down at work, so slide serrations it is. This one made my palms sweat. I could not figure out how to use a guide to keep everything straight, so I ended up with a piece of bar stock clamped to the bottom of the slide to get the first lines started and then eyeballed it from there. I expected to be able to do the entire back all at once, but you don't realize how much curve there is there until you start filing on it. I ended up doing one side at a time. It is ever so slightly not straight on the right side, but you go cross eyed trying to pick it out, so I am hoping it disappears once I PVD it.
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A blue dry erase marker works pretty good as dykem in a pinch
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The extractor wiggles like crazy as soon as you touch it with a file, so I am still working on a way to hold it still enough to cut the initial lines. I am thinking I probably need to fit an oversized firing pin retainer plate instead of the factory Springfield one, but I could be wrong there.
 
Criminalcamel said:
The extractor wiggles like crazy as soon as you touch it with a file, so I am still working on a way to hold it still enough to cut the initial lines. I am thinking I probably need to fit an oversized firing pin retainer plate instead of the factory Springfield one, but I could be wrong there.
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Springfield firing pin stop is loose for sure.
 
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