AR “Break-in”

[SimpleMan]

I bought a Ruger SFAR a month or so back. I also jumped into the suppressor game at that time, because I want a lightweight suppressed .308 AR to deer hunt with this fall. So, aside from the can I do not have yet, and the optic purchase that I’m struggling with more than naming a baby and the possible SFAR reliably cycling, I do have a question.

Ruger requests a “200 round break in”. This rifle has an adjustable gas block, and they suggest #3 to break in, then dial down to #2. Setting #1 is for running suppressed. I plan to dedicate my can to this rifle.

Should I do the 200 rounds with or without the can? Is a 200 round break in really necessary? If Ruger says to break in on #3 then dial down to #2, do I break in with the can on #2 then dial down to #1? Do I just buy a damn optic, shoot the rifle, and if it doesn’t run, then go buy a DD5 V3 like I probably should have?

Seriously, break in necessary, with/without the can?

 

[Timfoilhat]

I'd shoot it in a range or hunting setting without a break in. They're basically asking for you to spend another $180 on ammo before it's "ready". Maybe they know something about the gun they built. I just wouldn't grab that one first if someone breaks in the house until the rifle has proven itself to you.

As an aside, I had an instructor that suggested we dump 2-3 magazines of ammo as fast as we can to get it smoking hot. Let it cool a few minutes then dump another magazine. If it doesn't choke it's GTG. This only costs you 60 to 80 rounds instead of 200, and will confirm if the gun will run when hot.

 

[Mr.Gadget]

I would say sell it!
Just based on what you have said. Sounds like buyers remorse!
You don't think it will work and you have not shot it.

On a side note
I have one, love it and used It for hunting last year. Great gun for the design and cost.
I run a can on mine. Running a can will carbon up the gun like any other gun.
Their 200 rounds is just a break in they recommend.
Just like others recommend a break in. Years back many said that in the owners manual.
Christianson Arms is the same way. They have a cycle they want you to run for break in.

Back to your gun, clean it, oil it, set it on 3 and shoot it some.
For break in on any AR I run them wet. Don't use frog lube... LOL
After you shot it some add the can shoot it and see how it runs on 3 then back off to 2 and try again.
I have not run on 1 with mine as it depends on the ammo, back pressure on the can and what barrel you are running. Mine is a 16''
Very happy with it so far.

 

[SimpleMan]

You don't think it will work and you have not shot it.

I’m guilty of reading too much of the internet! It’s full of SFAR failures, and successes. Plus, it causes my head to pound at the optic choices. I have not shot it because there isn’t an optic on it, but that’s another problem. But you are right, I may be looking for a reason to buy another one (DD5 V3) already. I’m actually thinking at my age that I’m enjoying the thrill of the chase more than the act.

 

[Mr.Gadget]

I have 3 CMMG 308 platforms and one 6.5

Life is about the chase.

I got my SFAR because of all the trash talk. Used it to get a better Deal.... 😆
Other than the nut behind the trigger it has run great.
Warning, do not put a bunch of rounds in it with a can then remove the can and shoot on 1. It will carbon lock up tight...
Other than that it runs great.

 

[SimpleMan]

Well, one less excuse. I bought a scope today, so I reckon I may as well sight it in, can or no can.

Edit: Yes, you can put a PRS Lite stock onto a 16” SFAR. You need to exchange the Ruger end plate for a simple milspec and it’s no problem.

 

[Average Joe]

I had an instructor that suggested we dump 2-3 magazines of ammo as fast as we can to get it smoking hot. Let it cool a few minutes then dump another magazine. If it doesn't choke it's GTG. This only costs you 60 to 80 rounds instead of 200, and will confirm if the gun will run when hot.

This is sorta like a theory I used when my son was racing in motocross years ago. I would build the motor. Have him run the heck out of it for about 15 minutes, let it get nice and hot, change the oil and call it a day. Of course others swore by a specific break in regiment that took forever. I look at it like this, it’s either gonna hold up or blow up. And until he had a few practice sessions, it wasn’t used in a race. So if it blew up oh well. But I never had one come apart on me.

 

[Frack N Cylons]

This is sorta like a theory I used when my son was racing in motocross years ago. I would build the motor. Have him run the heck out of it for about 15 minutes, let it get nice and hot, change the oil and call it a day. Of course others swore by a specific break in regiment that took forever. I look at it like this, it’s either gonna hold up or blow up. And until he had a few practice sessions, it wasn’t used in a race. So if it blew up oh well. But I never had one come apart on me.

So you’re saying mag dump it into a trash pile.

 

[GymB]

Ruger is not saying that it needs a 200 round break in, they are saying that if it has stoppages in the first 200 rounds don’t call them, just keep going and hopefully it’ll work out.

I’d go ahead and run it wet and unsuppressed for a while. If you run it suppressed and it has failures they’re just going to ask you to run it unsuppressed, so save yourself some frustration.

 

[NCFubar]

My thought would be a little range time with a couple of purpose designed runs.

I’d do the first as a basic functionality test … first, 3 rounds in a mag just to test functionality of feeding, firing and ejecting with no gremlins. After a couple 3 round mags install the can and set the block correctly and see how it run … watch the ejection pattern for gassing feedback. When you’re sure it’s good It can help get you on the way to zeroing. Next I’d have a couple flavors of hunting loads I was thinking about for next season and see what the rifle likes. Hopefully you can find a sweet one and work on zeroing.

The good thing about a session like this is you information as well as “break in” (knock down the cobwebs or such). You get some trigger time to get a feel for how a new rifle feels and shoots along with getting things dialed in for future applications.

You won’t fire 200 rounds (which does seem a waste) … but the 30 or so you do fire will at least have purpose.

 

[SimpleMan]

My thought would be a little range time with a couple of purpose designed runs.

I’d do the first as a basic functionality test … first, 3 rounds in a mag just to test functionality of feeding, firing and ejecting with no gremlins. After a couple 3 round mags install the can and set the block correctly and see how it run … watch the ejection pattern for gassing feedback. When you’re sure it’s good It can help get you on the way to zeroing. Next I’d have a couple flavors of hunting loads I was thinking about for next season and see what the rifle likes. Hopefully you can find a sweet one and work on zeroing.

The good thing about a session like this is you information as well as “break in” (knock down the cobwebs or such). You get some trigger time to get a feel for how a new rifle feels and shoots along with getting things dialed in for future applications.

You won’t fire 200 rounds (which does seem a waste) … but the 30 or so you do fire will at least have purpose.

This makes plenty of sense, thanks!