Building Rimfire Raceguns

[Studentofthegun]

Do you like rimfire rifles and pistols that shoot really fast and reliably? Me too.

Lots of folks have no interest in ever shooting a match, but just about everyone (at least the red blooded Americans that don't hate freedom) like guns you can shoot fast. So LOTS of people want to build go-fast rimfire rifles and pistols because it is fun. I've even been successful getting surly teenagers to pitch their phones for a few hours and grin from ear to ear while burning through a brick of .22.

Let's start with the handguns and then we'll do rifles. Finally, we'll cover accessories.

Rimfire Racegun Essentials Part 1:​

Since my last blog post about building rimfire race guns is so old, it’s time for a new one. The purpose of this article is to discuss the best firearms for rimfire racing and what upgrades are best.
Much has happened since my last post on this blog. I’ll get back around to that a bit later. The short version is the Road to the Top 25 ended in success. And my foray into Steel Challenge has also proven fruitful.
Many people (mostly new shooters) have been asking me to build rimfire race guns for them or to provide parts lists for them. Therefore, I’m going to share the parts that I would recommend based on what is absolutely essential when it comes to making a race-ready firearm and what parts may enhance performance but aren’t required. Granted the concept of what’s “required” changes depending upon what your goal is. If I’m trying to gain a couple of tenths of a second per string, a thumbrest might be something I consider a requirement rather than something that is optional.
I’ll start out by naming the firearm and then will list the parts for it. Links will also be provided. Keep in mind two things: 1) Links can change over time and 2) it may become necessary for me to update this article as new parts become available.
There are two types of race guns with regard to rifles and pistols. One is referred to as “Open” and the other one as “Limited”. Open guns have optic sights. Typically these are red dot sights with no magnification. For the most part, if it uses a battery, you’re going to be shooting in the Open Division. If you are using iron or fiber optic sights, then you’re going to be in the Limited Division. In both RCSA (2 Gun Rimfire Challenge) and Steel Challenge, there are Open and Limited Divisions. Likewise, one can have all sorts of upgrades to Limited guns, which can include upgraded sights, compensators, thumb rests, etc.
Rimfire Race Pistols
When it comes to “bang for the buck” there are really two pistols that one should look at assuming you don’t already have one. Those are:

1. The Ruger Mark IV Lite.
2. The Smith and Wesson Victory.

If you’re looking for an Open Division race pistol, I cannot recommend the Ruger enough. That’s because it is light and the new model is much easier to disassemble for cleaning that the previous versions of Ruger Mark pistols.
If you choose the Ruger Mark IV Lite for your Open gun, then I highly recommend the following parts.
Essentials: Ruger Mark IV Open Pistol

• Optics – My personal favorite is the Cmore with an 8 or larger MOA dot. The plastic body with the non-click knob is perfectly fine. It runs about $210. The other option is a Vortex red dot of some sort. There are many options there and the prices vary. I don’t recommend going smaller than a 6 MOA dot no matter which one you choose. If you’re shopping for a C-more I recommend getting it from Allchin Gun Parts. You’re going to need to mount it to the gun too. So I’d choose an Allchin mount if you want it to be in an upright configuration. Many people like the 90 degree mounts because it gets the dot closer to the bore axis and therefore closer to what a normal sight picture would be. For many, this allows them to pick up the dot much quicker when they start firing a string. The Allchin website is experience some sort of issue right now so you’ll need to do a web search for it. (Also you’ll want to make sure the mount you order comes with the correct screws for the Mark IV. The Mark III screws are too short. Call John Allchin and he’ll help you out). To get a 90 degree mount, the best one available is produced by Striplin Custom Gunworks.

https://striplincustom.com/products/90-degree-c-more-mount-for-ruger-mk-iii-and-mk-iii-22-45
The Striplin Custom Gunworks 90 degree mount also has the zeroing directions engraved into the mount which I find very convenient.

• Trigger and Sear – Upgrading the trigger and sear is perhaps the most important improvement you can make. You can choose the Volquartsen kit or the Tandemkross kit. My personal favorite is the Volquartsen for the trigger. However, if you like a flat trigger, the Tandemkross is the way to go. The real key is the sear. You’re going to want to get a polished sear no matter what sort of trigger you end up with.

Volquartsen kit: https://volquartsen.com/inventory_configurations/1089
Tandemkross links: Sear – https://www.tandemkross.com/Volquartsen-Target-Sear-for-Ruger-MKIV-MKIV-2245_p_384.html
Victory Trigger: https://www.tandemkross.com/Victory-Trigger-for-Ruger-MKIV-2245_p_197.html
Other Upgrades for Ruger Mark IV Pistols
A C-More sight and a light, crisp trigger gets me most of the way there when it comes to outfitting a race gun. But there are other upgrades that can make a difference.

• Thumbrest – The next best thing on the list outside of the sight and trigger is a thumbrest. This is a topic of some debate because some people would argue that the next item on the list should be a compensator. For me this is a hard call to make because I believe both are important. Some would question why a compensator and a thumbrest, which are more prevalent on centerfire race guns, are needed for a .22LR pistol. The fact is, once you get up to a certain speed, you’ll find yourself fighting for tenths and sometimes even hundredths of a second. That’s where these types of accessories will make a difference. It can be hard to tell. But if you time yourself shooting several strings with and without these accessories, you’ll be able to tell that they do indeed help. The timer doesn’t lie.

For the thumbrest I recommend the one produced by Striplin Custom Gunworks. Tandemkross resells them as well. But they are produced by Striplin.
https://striplincustom.com/products/ruger-mkiv-22-45-thumbrest
https://www.tandemkross.com/Ruger-MKIV-2245-Thumb-Rest-by-Striplin-Custom-Guns_p_427.html
The installation does not require that any holes be drilled in the frame. It’s a very simple and easy install.
You can also choose to add an additional thumbrest that replaces the safety lever. I find the addition of this along with the Striplin thumbrest, provides an extremely stable grip and makes recoil very controllable.
https://www.tandemkross.com/Cornerstone-Safety-Thumb-Ledge-for-Ruger-MKIV-2245_p_432.html

• Compensators – For compensators I recommend the Tandemkross Gamechanger. There are two different ones. The Pro is the new version. The older version is aluminum and while lighter, it is my understanding that it isn’t quite as effective as the newer one.

https://www.tandemkross.com/Game-Ch...22-Victory-Browning-Buck-Mark-more_p_433.html
https://www.tandemkross.com/22-Muzzle-Brake-22-45-Compensator

• Sights – Keep in mind that the suggested parts and accessories for Limited Division is the exact same as the Open with the omission of the C-More or Vortex optics. Instead, I would suggest upgrading the sights by switching to fiber optics.

The Williams Fire Sights are an excellent upgrade:
https://www.tandemkross.com/Williams-Fire-Sight–71053–Ruger-MKIV-2245-LITE_p_312.html
You can keep the factory rear sight and get a Tactical Solutions front sight.
https://www.tacticalsol.com/pac-lite-accessories/pac-lite-fiber-optic-front-sights
Please note that I believe the threads might be different from the Mark III and Mark IV Ruger pistols. So you’ll want to make sure you retain the factory screw to install the new sight.
Essentials for the Smith and Wesson Victory
The Victory pistols have a number of upgrades but not quite as many as the Ruger Mark IV. However they are a tremendous value and are wonderful Limited pistols. If you just want to get a factory Limited pistol and not have to mess with it out of the box, go ahead and get yourself a Victory. It will come with a nice trigger and fiber optic sights right from the manufacturer.
It is a bit heavier than its Ruger counterparts. But that’s not a bad thing with a Limited Division pistol. The weight keeps the pistol more stable and there’s less disturbance of the sights under recoil. It also makes a fine Open Division pistol so long as you add the optics and proper mount.

• Optics – I recommend the same as above for the Ruger. Regarding Mounts, Striplin Custom Gunworks makes a wonderful 90 degree mount for the Victory that can be found here: https://striplincustom.com/collecti...s/smith-and-wesson-22-victory-90-degree-mount

Striplin Custom also makes an upright mount for the Victory: https://striplincustom.com/collecti...nd-wesson/products/s-w-victory-straight-mount
As does Tandemkross: https://www.tandemkross.com/Shadow-C-MORE-Mount-for-SW22-Victory_p_298.html
The Tandemkross mount looks like it might be made by Allchin but I cannot confirm that. Either way, these are excellent mounts.

• Trigger – A trigger also helps the Smith and Wesson Victory pistols. This is a little bit less necessary than the Ruger because the factory Victory trigger isn’t bad. But Tandemkross did an excellent job of making the aftermarket trigger crisp and light. It can be found here:

https://www.tandemkross.com/Victory-Trigger-for-SW22-Victory_p_251.html
Personally, I find the Victory factory grips to be a bit slick. That can present issues during the summertime when your hands are sweaty. For that reason I recommend getting a set of rubber Hive grips from Tandemkross.
https://www.tandemkross.com/hiveGrip-for-the-SW22-Victory_p_351.html
Other Upgrades for Victory Pistols
My biggest issue with the Victory pistol, especially when used for the Open Division, is how much it weighs. It’s simply a heavy pistol. This means that sometimes transitions can be a bit slower than you’d like, and once the gun is moving its inertia can make it harder to stop on a dime (or in this case, the stop plate).

• Aftermarket barrels – There are a number of manufacturers that make lighter barrels for the Victory. That’s where the majority of the weight is and is the simplest place to reduce weight. Volquartsen was the first to market with carbon fiber wrapped barrels. Tactical Solutions also makes an aftermarket barrel. Both are exceptional options.

https://www.tandemkross.com/Ridge-L...l-Solutions-Special-Edition-Colors_p_463.html
https://www.tandemkross.com/Volquartsen-Firearms-Carbon-Fiber-Barrel-for-SW22-Victory_p_263.html
My favorite aftermarket Victory barrel is made by Striplin Custom Gunworks. It transforms the Victory into one of the best Open or Limited race pistols you can possibly get. However, you’ll need to contact Striplin directly in order to get this done. Striplin take the factory barrel and does a weight reduction with a carbon fiber wrap. He also installs one of this custom compensators which may well be THE most effective compensator available for .22LR. Striplin can be reached at https://striplincustom.com/ and his prices for this service are very reasonable when compared to other options.

• Thumbrest – There’s one available for the Victory but it requires drilling and tapping the frame. The finished product is worth it.

https://striplincustom.com/collecti...and-wesson/products/thumbrest-for-s-w-victory

• Compensators – For compensators I recommend the same ones as the Ruger above: The Tandemkross Gamechanger and Gamechanger PRO.
• https://www.tandemkross.com/Game-Ch...22-Victory-Browning-Buck-Mark-more_p_433.htmlhttps://www.tandemkross.com/22-Muzzle-Brake-22-45-Compensator

Other General Accessories
There are many other accessories such as grips for the Ruger, charging handles (which are great for avoiding getting your fingers pinched), magazine bumpers, titanium firing pins, and more.
My humble recommendation is to check out sites like Striplincustom.com, Tandemkross, and Tactical Solutions and see what’s available. Tandemkross and Striplin allow you to shop by gun model, which really helps you see what’s out there.
The best thing you can do to get started will always be to address the sights and the trigger. Beyond that, it’s best to go to a local Rimfire Challenge or Steel Challenge match and talk to the competitors. Ask them what equipment they are using. I think you’ll find the vast majority of competitive shooters are happy to help and might even let you try out their guns after the match.
If you have any questions feel free to ask them in the comments section below. We’ll talk about rifles in part 2 of this series.

SOTG

 

[Studentofthegun]

Rimfire Racegun Essentials Part 2:​

Now that I’ve given the list of essentials with regard to rimfire race pistols, it’s time to talk about rifles. There are really two primary options with regard to rifles. One is the Ruger 10/22 and the other is the Smith and Wesson 15-22.
Essential Upgrades for the Ruger 10/22
Ruger 10/22s have been around for a long time and there are many different upgrades out there. But there are three things that I always do first when upgrading a Ruger 10/22. They are the trigger, stock, and barrel. While the barrel is really nice to have and will allow you to swing/transition the rifle faster from one steel plate or target to another, it isn’t strictly necessary. Many shooters use the factory barrel to great effect. So I won’t consider it among the essentials, but it’s the next highest item on the list of upgrades I would recommend.
Optics: I recommend the same optics as mentioned in the rimfire race pistols section below, which was part 1 of this article. The same goes for the mounts. I recommend the Striplin Custom Gunworks, Allchin, and Tandemkross mounts.

• Trigger- If you’re starting with a stock 10/22 the first upgrade I recommend is to change the trigger. You can get complete drop in units or you can get trigger kits. The most common one I see is the Kidd trigger kit:

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Tri...r-Sear-Disconnect-and-Trigger-blade_p_95.html. It runs a little over $100 but it’s definitely worth it. Granted, there are other companies that make upgrades. One of the least expensive paths to a better trigger is installing a Volquartsen hammer:
http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=VC10TH.
It’s about $40 and is worth every penny in terms of improvement. It’s not as good as the Kidd kit, but it’ll be much better than the factory trigger. You can also get a full trigger replacement from companies like Brimstone if your Ruger came with a BX-25 trigger.
https://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com
You have to send your trigger off to Brimstone though to get this done. The BX-25 is a very common upgrade that runs about $60 or $70. But for just a little more you could get the Kidd kit which is a much larger improvement in terms of a lighter and crisper trigger.
Tactical Solutions, Volquartsen and Kidd make complete trigger modules that you can swap out with your factory trigger module. Just pull the two pins out of the receiver and pop in the new trigger. They are a little more costly. While I really like the Kidd trigger kit, I wish the company did more for the rimfire race gun sport. Companies like Tactical Solutions, Volquartsen, and Brimstone do a lot more to promote the sport and sponsor various matches.

• Stocks – Factory Ruger stocks are not the most ergonomic for rimfire racing. A stock that has a more vertical grip is much more conducive to fast shooting and operation of the trigger. Therefore, I recommend to look at the following options:

Blackhawk Axiom stock is a great option for youth shooters who are smaller in stature. the stock is adjustable and those with shorter arms will appreciate it. In addition, the grip and trigger orientation is such that those with very short fingers are able to index the trigger properly. Adults can use it too of course. The stock is very light but will often have a bit of flex, especially with the forend.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...-pull-rifle-stock-ruger-10-22-synthetic-black
Other options include Boyd’s: https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator/
Of all the options I prefer the SS Evolution stock the most because it is very light. Whatever option you choose, it’s important to consider the weight. A heavier stock will make transitions slower. If you can find one of the discontinued Primary Weapons System Raptor stocks then definitely pick that up. I find it to be the absolute best wooden stock but they are very hard to find.
Other Upgrades for the 10/22

• Barrels – There are two best options in my opinion. One is Tactical Solutions and the other is Volquartsen. My personal preference between the two is Tactical Solutions from a pricing perspective. They are also available in multiple colors. You can get barrels with and without fiber optic sights. I suggest the X-Ring barrels found here:

https://www.tacticalsol.com/x-ring-series/x-ring-barrel
Check around on the site for other options. You can always remove the sights and use them down the road if you want to build an Open Division rifle. That’s what I would so that you have the option of using that barrel for Limited Division in the future.
The Tactical Solution website shows the cost at MSRP, but you can find them at places such as Rimfire Sports for about $250.
http://www.rimfiresports.com/mercha...e=RSC&Product_Code=TS1022TE&Category_Code=R1A
Once you have a new trigger, stock, and barrel I think you’ll find that your rifle has transformed. It will transition much faster and you’ll be well equipped to see just how fast you can go.
You can also buy a complete race rifle if you want to. Tactical Solutions sells complete X-Ring rifles. If you’re starting from scratch and want the best of the best, either an X-Ring or a Volquartsen Ultralight are the way to go. I prefer the Tactical Solutions X-Ring complete rifles because they are less expensive and ideal for rimfire racing.
Essential Upgrades for the Smith and Wesson 15-22
When it comes to the 15-22, there are just a handful of upgrades available. It’s a great rifle out of the box and I used mine for quite a while without any upgrades whatsoever. If you do want to upgrade it, the most important thing you can do is get a new trigger.
Optics: I recommend the same optics as mentioned in the rimfire race pistols section below, which was part 1 of this article. The mounts are a bit different than the 10/22. If you go with the C-More just get the slide ride version and simply attach it to the rail. If you get a Vortex or other red dot, you’ll want to make sure you have the appropriate riser. Keep in mind that red dots that work for the AR-15 will work with the 15-22 as well.

• Trigger – So many options exist for the 15-22 it boggles the mind. That’s because it can accommodate the same type of trigger you’d use to upgrade your AR-15 rifle. However, it is important to keep in mind that whatever trigger you buy, you’re going to want to get the oversized trigger pins (best thing to do is ask the manufacturer which ones they recommend for the 15-22).

The reason for this is because the 15-22 has a polymer lower and the pin holes are just a tiny bit larger than a standard AR-15. Thus, if you put in the factory pins, you’re going to run the risk of the pins wallowing out the holes in the lower. What I did was get a KNS anti-rotation pin kit and that did the trick. CMS also makes trigger pins specifically for the 15-22 if you choose one of their options. I really like the 3.5lb CMC flat trigger. Whatever option you choose, just make sure you address the trigger pin issue and you’re good to go.
Handguard – Many speed shooters feel that a longer handguard (such as a rifle length guard) really helps you control the rifle better. It aids in faster transitions. For this, you can use a variety of options but will likely need a conversion kit. One of the cheapest options I’ve found is the Chandler Hardwoods rails.
http://www.chandlerhardwoods.com/category-s/1843.htm
You do need a special tool to remove the factory rail. The tool can be found here:
https://www.amazon.com/Barrel-Wrench-Smith-Wesson-P15-22/dp/B00GX4HYJM
And here is some helpful information about making the installation. I also recommend searching YouTube:
http://www.majorpandemic.com/2012/07/mp-15-22-aftermarket-billet-forend.html
So yes, it’s a bit of a process. However I found it to be worth it. The great thing about the 15-22 is that it doesn’t need a lot of improvements to make it a viable rimfire race rifle.
SOTG

 

[Studentofthegun]

Magazines For Rimfire Raceguns:​

When it comes to sports like Steel Challenge and Rimfire Challenge, you’re going to need at least 5 magazines for each firearm. I always recommend to use factory magazines if you can because they generally work better and give you a lot less trouble that off brands.
When it comes to Ruger pistols and rifles, I suggest getting Ruger magazines. Beware of knock offs from eBay. Some of them are listed as “Ruger OEM” magazines but they aren’t made by Ruger and aren’t always reliable.

When it comes to Smith and Wesson firearms, I also recommend Smith and Wesson brand magazines. This is true of both the Victory pistol and the 15-22 rifle. At local matches you can get away with a couple of 25 round magazines for the 15-22. However, at sanctioned matches you won’t be able to do that because you’ll need to limit the rounds in each magazine to 10. You can still use a 25 round magazine, you just need to limit the rounds to 10 which means you’re going to still need 5 magazines.
I also recommend having about 6 mags for each type of firearm. This is because the timer will sometimes fail to pick up your time. It’s therefore nice to have a sixth magazine there ready to go in the event you have to reshoot a string.

Reloading magazines for the 10/22
There are many reloaders available out there. Save yourself some time and just get the Maglula. The rest have not worked for me and I'd give them away if I didn't feel like I was cursing the recipient.

Maglula Loader:

Maglula LULA Mag Loader Unloader Ruger 10/22, 22 Long Rifle Polymer

The Maglula Lula Magazine Loader and Unloader for the Ruger 10/22 is a compact, durable, smoothly-operated loader designed to quickly and safely load 22...

www.midwayusa.com

For the Ruger Mark series pistols you can use the McFadden Machine loader found here:
https://www.tandemkross.com/McFadden-Ultimate-Cliploader–Ruger-MK-Series_p_31.html
The McFadden loaders are the best ones available for any firearm in my opinion. The also make one for the 15-22 and the Victory magazines. You can just buy one Lightning Grip Loader and then swap out the adapeters. Or, you can get one Lightning loader for the rifle and one for the pistol. That’s my recommendation so that you don’t have to keep swapping out the adapters. Some of the adapters fit pretty tightly so it’s really not always feasible to swap them.

What I’d do is visit this link:
https://www.mcfaden.com/McFadden-Machine-Lightnin-Grip-Loader-s/1828.htm
And then browse the site to find the additional adapters you need. They have them for a variety of firearms. There are also helpful YouTube videos that show you the best way to use the McFadden loaders. It’s definitely a good idea to check those out. I’ve found using some silicone spray really helps the loaders operate efficiently.

Weapon Cases and Chamber Flags
For Steel Challenge and Rimfire Challenge, you’re also going to want to make sure you have rifle and pistol bags for the match. All firearms must be bagged when brought up to the firing position. You’ll also want to make sure that you have chamber flags for any rifles you intend to use. The chamber flags must be used even when you’re bagging the firearm. If you arrive at the match and haven’t put in your chamber flag, speak to the Match Director or Range Office and they’ll get you to a Safe Area so that you can insert your flag.
Here’s a link to some good chamber flags that I use:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...er-chamber-checker-safety-flag-polymer-yellow

SOTG