Still fairly new to reloading. My 1st 1000 primers I was able to get my hands on were Winchester SSP. I used those and had no issues with them. Then the next 2000 primers I got were CCI SSP #500. I've had several (8-10) primers that took multiple strikes to ignite them out of the first box of 1000. This has occurred across several guns and 2 different calibers. Then at the range this weekend had one to fail to ignite after multiple strikes. Is this just a result of rushing manufacturing and poor quality control in this time of limited supply or is this normal for CCI primers?
CCI Primer Quality
- Thread starter PKJ
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I’ve never had an issue that I didn’t cause.
The only issue I’ve had with CCI primers is failing to fully seat them, or with a light striker spring due to the primers having a stiffer cup. The Win primers always went bang in that same gun.
I just ran through 2,000 CCI, half were -41 NATO in my AR, the rest spp. The -41 are harder to set off on purpose, to prevent slam fires in ar/m16/types. Some striker-fired pistols won’t set off -41s, but never had an issue with regular CCI spp.
Same here. Cleaning the pocket helped.
One thing not mentioned, some primers are made from harder metal than others. To ensure consistent ignition, primer pockets must be clean.
One thing of note you centerfire guys don't know. Current CCI musket caps are garbage. They used to be the gold standard with RWS running a close second. Then a reenactor got a chunk of a CCI cap in his eye and sued CCI. As a result, CCI changed the design of the cap from a "6 wing" to a "4 wing" and cut way back on the priming compound or went to a weaker compound. The result is a far weaker cap that doesn't have the necessary power for accurate live fire musket shooting. They'll work on blanks, but when the X ring is on the line, good luck.
One thing of note you centerfire guys don't know. Current CCI musket caps are garbage. They used to be the gold standard with RWS running a close second. Then a reenactor got a chunk of a CCI cap in his eye and sued CCI. As a result, CCI changed the design of the cap from a "6 wing" to a "4 wing" and cut way back on the priming compound or went to a weaker compound. The result is a far weaker cap that doesn't have the necessary power for accurate live fire musket shooting. They'll work on blanks, but when the X ring is on the line, good luck.
Only problem I've had with any brand of primer failing to ignite was caused by improper seating depth. When it's not fully seated the first strike finishes the job and the second one - hopefully - ignites it. If that first strike fractured the priming compound you might never get it to light.
Can you post a low-angle shot of a loaded box with the primers facing up?
Can you post a low-angle shot of a loaded box with the primers facing up?
I've only had one primer that I know for a fact was faulty. It was a Winchester large rifle primer. I removed it from the brass and carefully dissected it, it had the thin layer of sealant, but no primer compound underneath.
I'm not saying the CCI primers are not defective, I know it is possible, but my best guess would be that they were not fully seated or the gun has a weak hammer or striker spring.
I'm not saying the CCI primers are not defective, I know it is possible, but my best guess would be that they were not fully seated or the gun has a weak hammer or striker spring.
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My only issue with CCI primers is when I was working on getting a lighter trigger pull by lightening the hammer spring or something of that nature. The cups on CCI are a little harder than most, so it takes a harder strike than others. Federal primers are more sensitive and will ignite with a lighter strike than CCI. This might... make CCI slightly safer than others in certain situations such as tubular magazines and pointy bullets or in semiautos with a floating firing pin or something of that nature.
Like stated above, CCI makes a product line just for semi auto rifles, and they take a stronger strike to ignite, but this should not be an issue unless the rifle has been modified in some way to reduce trigger pull, recoil, springs are in spec, and in good working order.. If you release the bolt in an AR, but don't fire the round sometimes you will see a slight indentation on the primer.
Like stated above, CCI makes a product line just for semi auto rifles, and they take a stronger strike to ignite, but this should not be an issue unless the rifle has been modified in some way to reduce trigger pull, recoil, springs are in spec, and in good working order.. If you release the bolt in an AR, but don't fire the round sometimes you will see a slight indentation on the primer.
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I’ve always thought CCI to be the preferred primer. Never had a primer-specific issue with Win, CCI, or S&B.
More likely a reloading problem than a primer problem in my experience. Not saying that it isn’t a primer problem, but if 8 or 10 per thousand was widespread, we’d be hearing about that all over the internet.
They seem to be seated all the way. Early on I managed to get some WMA cases in that had the primer pockets crimped and had trouble getting them seated all the way. I've since just started throwing those out when I'm sorting brass.
georgel
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CCI are generally the hardest primers and Federal the softest. Your problem, as suggested, is more likely a gun/cartridge configuration issue than a primer one. CCI's are my standard primer brand.
Read the sticky on primers, if you want to learn more about primers...
carolinafirearmsforum.com
Read the sticky on primers, if you want to learn more about primers...
The Primer on Primers
Due to the primer shortage and some confusion on primers in another thread, I did a little research and came up with this info from the SKSboards site. I thought it would be helpful here... PRIMER CHART & REFERENCE GUIDE Small Handgun Standard .017" cup thickness CCI 500 Federal 100 - Has a...
carolinafirearmsforum.com
I hadn't read that I should be doing any prep on primer pockets for handgun rounds. Loading 9mm and 380 on a Dillon XL750 progressive press.
most pistol rounds are loaded without any primer pocket work at all. You could literally just wipe the cases with a rag, deprime them, and reload. Wet tumbling has only recently become popular, and before that vibratory tumbling worked just fine even though it was often done before the brass was deprimed.
The primers look fully seated in the picture above, so tell us about the guns that are having the failures.
If you’re using mixed headstamps and it’s your first time reloading it, there is a lot of variation between different pieces of brass, so uniforming the primer pockets to the same depth and ensuring they’re all of uniform diameter with no crimp so the primers seat identically with no obstruction is never a bad thing. I mean, you’re having issues with some of the best primers on the market…
Since you're new to reloading, there are a few things to observe in troubleshooting. As mentioned, no mixed head stamps when doing load development. Clean primer pockets to eliminate that variable. Strive for consistency in your methodology. I didn't see it mentioned to try wet tumbling with SS pins. That leaves most brass looking factory new.
Those things said, I've had overall great results with CCI center-fire primers, from handguns to rifles with no failure to fire.
Those things said, I've had overall great results with CCI center-fire primers, from handguns to rifles with no failure to fire.
Guns - Sig p365, a Walther PPQ and a Springfield 1911 for the 9mm. In 380 a Sig P238. Each have had at least one. Again I only ask about current quality of CCI primers since these guns have never had an issue with any kind of factory ammo and they didn't have problems with the first 1000 Winchester primers I used. Problems only started on this box of CCI.
With that variety it’s hard to blame the gun.
Have you still got the round that didn’t fire after multiple strikes?
Are you comfortable disassembling the round?
I’d actually like to get that primer out and see if it has compound and an anvil.
Have you still got the round that didn’t fire after multiple strikes?
Are you comfortable disassembling the round?
I’d actually like to get that primer out and see if it has compound and an anvil.
I didn't even think about that so I got rid of it at the range. I still have 300 of that batch and a 1000 of another box I purchased at the same time so if I get another one I'll disassemble it and report the results.