Chainsaw gurus please chime in

22Rimfire

22Rimfire

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Excuse my lack of saw knowledge on such a basic topic- Was given a well worn Stihl MS250 from my father in law. Went to cut down some pines today and the thing isn’t oiling at all. Oil tank is full and case where oiler/sprocket and chain are cleaned of sawdust debris.

What’s my next step here? Im thinking of draining the oil reservoir and seeing if something could have clogged the oiler hole. From research it looks like it could be a worn oiler pump worm gear as well.

I know the chain is super dull so definitely possible the bar and chain were burnt up from him running it with no oil. Any help is appreciated!
 
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there’s an oiler adjustment screw on the bottom of the saw. Open that all the way and try it. Other wise the worm gear is probably gone if it’s not liking after that. YouTube will show you how to change any parts, and you can get the on Amazon.
 
Burt Gummer said:
there’s an oiler adjustment screw on the bottom of the saw. Open that all the way and try it. Other wise the work gear is probably gone if it’s not liking after that. YouTube will show you how to change any parts, and you can get the on Amazon.
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Thanks for the quick reply! I’ll give that a try tomorrow
 
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22Rimfire said:
Excuse my lack of saw knowledge - Was given a well worn Stihl MS250 from my father in law. Went to cut down some pines today and the thing isn’t oiling at all. Oil tank is full and case where oiler/sprocket and chain are cleaned of sawdust debris.

What’s my next step here? Im thinking of draining the oil reservoir and seeing if something could have clogged the oiler hole. From research it looks like it could be a worn oiler pump worm gear as well.

I know the chain is super dull so definitely possible the bar and chain were burnt up from him running it with no oil. Any help is appreciated!
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First thing to do is remove the cover over the chain sprocket. Then blast some carb cleaner into the weep hole. Put it back together and start it on a piece of cardboard and rev it. If it splatters on the cardboard you are good. If not the oiler will need to be replaced. I’ve never had to replace one so I couldn’t tell you how difficult it is.
 
when you remove the side cover to access the bar ,pay careful attention to where the oil comes out of the saw and goes into a small hole on the side of the bar near the tail - often this will get clogged with oily sawdust.
The other likely spot to check is the vent for the oil tank , if this is clogged or faulty this will vapor lock the bar oil tank and not allow oil to flow
 
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Good advise above but becareful if you run it with side cover and chain off to see if it is oiling. I wouldnt rev it much over 1/3 to half throttle since there is no load on the engine and there is nothing to catch the clutch or prevent it from slinging a spring apart if its over reved.
 
BrettB said:
I personally don’t ever run a saw without a bar and chain
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Not even to see if it's oiling? I don't do it alot, but if I don't know if it's even making it the bar I will.
 
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Yea, I don't Rev it much if at all when I do it. Mine takes maybe 5 seconds or so to start putting the oil out. I put a bigger oiler on it and have it turned up to max though too. Now I get a 1:1 or can adjust it down to 1: .75 tank ratio. Before I was burning full tank gas to maybe 1/2 tank oil. My bar and chain wasn't liking that.
 
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Burt Gummer said:
there’s an oiler adjustment screw on the bottom of the saw. Open that all the way and try it. Other wise the worm gear is probably gone if it’s not liking after that. YouTube will show you how to change any parts, and you can get the on Amazon.
Click to expand...

I don't think the MS250 has an adjustable oiler.
Just the pro saws, I've been wrong before, but it's worth a google.
I have put diesel in the oil tank before, just to clean out the works. Lots of junk in there on old saws.
 
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^^^. I’ve seen them clog up here. Good idea from Ryan too about running some diesel through it to clear out old gunk. I’d probably pull the bar and chain, drain the old oil, put in a few oz of diesel, start it and let it run at idle for 30 seconds and then shut it down and let everything soak for several hours. Then drain, refill with fresh oil and start it again - letting it idle for 30 seconds to see if it’s oiling. If it is, then clean the oiler hole in the side of the bar, clean out the groove that the chain rides in on the bar, and reassemble and use it.

If it’s still not oiling, time for an oil pump.
 
I’ll be 100% honest with you all - after felling these big pines with a 40v Ryobi 14” saw I realized I was in over my head with that little thing. With the above mentioned 250 not oiling and my impatience to get them cut up I just bought a 251 wood boss from Ace. Going to mess with the 250 when I have more time on my hands and leave it at the cabin.

Will follow up later this weekend. Again appreciate all the replies above. I bet it’s something super simple.

IMG_9008.jpegIMG_9009.jpeg
 
Here is some good information about professional and safe felling methods. It’s what I use personally.

chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com

How to make a directional notch – Husqvarna Chainsaw Academy

Here’s how you conduct directional felling to control how the tree will fall. Including a guide of directional notches and a step-by-step video on safe felling.
chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com
 
Scsmith42 said:
Here is some good information about professional and safe felling methods. It’s what I use personally.

chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com

How to make a directional notch – Husqvarna Chainsaw Academy

Here’s how you conduct directional felling to control how the tree will fall. Including a guide of directional notches and a step-by-step video on safe felling.
chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com chainsawacademy.husqvarna.com
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OP, after seeing those stumps, i was about to share this same info. Im glad they look like they went where you wanted them to , but a goode hinge cut gives you more control where they fall.
 
Bringing this one back from the dead. In a couple months (after my shoulder is good to go) I have 3 trees that I need down. All 3 are going to require some climbing. I’ve got the spikes and safety gear covered. But the only saw I have is a Stihl with a 18” bar. Years ago I would just use it since it’s only 3 trees. But being older and more busted up, I’m going to get a small lighter, top handle arborist saw, to use while climbing.

My question, are these small cheap saws off Amazon good enough for 3 trees and then move it along on Craigslist? Since this is not something that I will not do again anytime soon, it pains me to buy a top tier saw. Below is the model I’m considering.

 
Average Joe said:
Bringing this one back from the dead. In a couple months (after my shoulder is good to go) I have 3 trees that I need down. All 3 are going to require some climbing. I’ve got the spikes and safety gear covered. But the only saw I have is a Stihl with a 18” bar. Years ago I would just use it since it’s only 3 trees. But being older and more busted up, I’m going to get a small lighter, top handle arborist saw, to use while climbing.

My question, are these small cheap saws off Amazon good enough for 3 trees and then move it along on Craigslist? Since this is not something that I will not do again anytime soon, it pains me to buy a top tier saw. Below is the model I’m considering.

Click to expand...
i can only share my experience with an echo 2511t. its absolutely great, and is extremely lightweight. i use it for a lot more than i though i would initially.

no experience with the saw you posted or the other similar cheap saws. id expect that if it works out of the box it should be ok for 3 trees. if not amazon has a pretty good exchange policy. certainly a no for long term heavy use.
 
Echo makes a GREAT top handle saw. I had one years ago and it was stolen off my trailer. If I needed a top handle saw right now that’s what I’d buy.

But for three trees. That Amazon saw would probably be fine. If you need any rigging stuff, reach out.
 
Burt Gummer said:
Echo makes a GREAT top handle saw. I had one years ago and it was stolen off my trailer. If I needed a top handle saw right now that’s what I’d buy.

But for three trees. That Amazon saw would probably be fine. If you need any rigging stuff, reach out.
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Will do thanks!
 
Average Joe said:
Bringing this one back from the dead. In a couple months (after my shoulder is good to go) I have 3 trees that I need down. All 3 are going to require some climbing. I’ve got the spikes and safety gear covered. But the only saw I have is a Stihl with a 18” bar. Years ago I would just use it since it’s only 3 trees. But being older and more busted up, I’m going to get a small lighter, top handle arborist saw, to use while climbing.

My question, are these small cheap saws off Amazon good enough for 3 trees and then move it along on Craigslist? Since this is not something that I will not do again anytime soon, it pains me to buy a top tier saw. Below is the model I’m considering.

Click to expand...

I have the ebay version that was right around $100 few years ago to leave in equipment or truck and i wouldn't be upset if it was stolen. It took a little tuning when I got it and has been running probably way leaner than it probably should as the specs said it turns 8500 rpm and mine was closer to 10-11k when i checked with a tack but its a $100 saw so why not push it 😁. It has been great little saw for the price and been used a good bit at this point and owes me nothing and would pick up another for how handy it is. It is nice cause its pretty light . Its not very robust as the case and handle is all plastic but if you understand that it works pretty good, biggest problem i had was if you pinched the bar and got aggressive trying to get it out you would pull the rubber handle mount threw the mounting hole easily and could be fixed just annoying so I put a plug in the center of the rubber mount to stiffen it up and solved the issue. Its a zenoah clone and husky had a version for a while you can get parts for if you needed them but if anything big happens its a throw away saw. Below is one I ended up with but same design.

www.ebay.com

25.4cc Gas Top Handle Chainsaw with 12'' Bar Chain 2-Stroke Engine Cut Tree Wood | eBay

25.4CC Top Handle Gas Chainsaw 12" Bar. The guide plate is fixed with double bolts, the guide plate is firm, and the chain is not easy to loosen. Engine clean air intake system, Combination damper/switch structure, Multifunctional chain saw, can cut wood, saw bamboo, garden pruning, artistic...
www.ebay.com
 
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