Draw to 1st shot par time

Tim

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What is the gold standard for draw from concealment to 1st shot on target?

Figure a torso target at ~10 yards.
 
I’d say 1.5-2.0 seconds.

I think Wizard drill par time is 2.5 per string.

I also think that defined "target" zone makes a difference. Are we talking IDPA Zero or USPSA A Zone or just a silhouette target area.

The Wizard is a shot at 3, 5 7 and 10 yards. The last stage always gets me 2 shots @ 10 in 2.5 secs.

I personally am ok with 2 to 2.5 with a A zone or zero zone hit. I also try to run 2, 3 and 5 rounds strings to see where the variance is.
 
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The other big factor is method of carry. IWB is always slower for me but that is my mode of carry so more often then not that is the draw I am practicing. I don't do appendix but from what I have seen it is the fastest. OWB being in between. Pocket carry varies based on which pocket you carry in etc...
 
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I'm working from strong side IWB with t-shirt or polo type shirt for concealment. Getting solid A zone hits right at 1.9-2.3. I was hoping to work that down to 1.5, but didn't' really have a benchmark for what's reasonable.

The YouTubers seem to have unreasonable concealment for what I'd consider daily wear, so their times seemed skewed to me.
 
The YouTubers seem to have unreasonable concealment for what I'd consider daily wear, so their times seemed skewed to me.
The YouTubers also may be only posting their best runs, and may never disclose how many attempts it took them to get a run they would want to post.
 
I'm working from strong side IWB with t-shirt or polo type shirt for concealment. Getting solid A zone hits right at 1.9-2.3. I was hoping to work that down to 1.5, but didn't' really have a benchmark for what's reasonable.

The YouTubers seem to have unreasonable concealment for what I'd consider daily wear, so their times seemed skewed to me.
A lot of people will say that for the average concealed carry citizen, 2 seconds is good, and 1.5 seconds is very good.

You didn't actually ask for any training ideas, so just disregard this if it's offensive. :) I personally think that as you push for speed, you're better served to come in closer than to go for 10 yard shots. Train at 5 or even three yards in order to push the speed. Make good hits fast at that distance, and then you'll be faster at longer distances, too. If you don't go faster, you will never go faster. (Edit: of course, your speed gains will mostly be made dry, and only verified live, unless you have an ammo budget like the king of siam or something.)

There are two places that most people can pick up a ton of time on the draw.

First--this may sound like a joke, but it isn't--move your hands faster. A lot of the time, we move like we're going through molasses. Slap that hand onto the grip like it owes you money. Do some reps just getting onto the gun FAST.

Second, practice just reacting to the beep. Set your random start timer, and tap it with your finger as soon as you hear the beep. (Just hold your finger a couple of inches away and tap.) Aim to get something like a .17. Many people will start this drill with a reaction time closer to .3. If you take three tenths to start reacting, and then you move your hands at half speed to get to the gun, you're going to have a slow draw. If you react in .15 and move your hands like they're on fire, then you will have a much faster draw. Sounds obvious, right, but I needed someone to tell it all to me. :)

One other thing that can really help is to make sure you're prepping the trigger as the sights come into your line of sight. Don't wait until you're on the target to start the trigger press. And you can be cleaning up the sight picture as you're extending to the target, too. That way, once you reach full extension, you're ready to fire. You don't get out there and aim for three tenths before starting the trigger press.
 
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A lot of people will say that for the average concealed carry citizen, 2 seconds is good, and 1.5 seconds is very good.

You didn't actually ask for any training ideas, so just disregard this if it's offensive. :) I personally think that as you push for speed, you're better served to come in closer than to go for 10 yard shots. Train at 5 or even three yards in order to push the speed. Make good hits fast at that distance, and then you'll be faster at longer distances, too. If you don't go faster, you will never go faster. (Edit: of course, your speed gains will mostly be made dry, and only verified live, unless you have an ammo budget like the king of siam or something.)

There are two places that most people can pick up a ton of time on the draw.

First--this may sound like a joke, but it isn't--move your hands faster. A lot of the time, we move like we're going through molasses. Slap that hand onto the grip like it owes you money. Do some reps just getting onto the gun FAST.

Second, practice just reacting to the beep. Set your random start timer, and tap it with your finger as soon as you hear the beep. (Just hold your finger a couple of inches away and tap.) Aim to get something like a .17. Many people will start this drill with a reaction time closer to .3. If you take three tenths to start reacting, and then you move your hands at half speed to get to the gun, you're going to have a slow draw. If you react in .15 and move your hands like they're on fire, then you will have a much faster draw. Sounds obvious, right, but I needed someone to tell it all to me. :)

One other thing that can really help is to make sure you're prepping the trigger as the sights come into your line of sight. Don't wait until you're on the target to start the trigger press. And you can be cleaning up the sight picture as you're extending to the target, too. That way, once you reach full extension, you're ready to fire. You don't get out there and aim for three tenths before starting the trigger press.

Some solid gold in this post.^^





My non-expert opinions (advice for newbs, not necessarily experienced shooters like Tim):

Endeavor to be smooth and fast. Reject the slow part. Slower is never faster.
The turtle only won the race because the rabbit stopped to have a beer with a couple cute bunnies. Otherwise, turtle is effed. Every. Single. Time.

I believe filming yourself will always quickly show you just how fat, wrinkly, slow, and terrible you are. You can improve the slow and terrible part though, having just identified it. Work on it. Look at someone good and how they look like they know what they are doing. Does their head move a lot? Do they chicken wing their arm out? Compare to your flailing head and ridiculous chicken wing to Todd Jarret or Jerry or Max Michel or Pat Mcnamara or Hackathorn or someone else you may admire. If none of those names ring a bell you are hopeless and you can go ahead and sell your pink and robbins egg blue Grock.

This filming yourself may require you to have the ole lady hold the iphone on you while you do your "fake shooting" (as my girl calls my dryfire sessions).
All I have to do is tell her "ima do these drills naked unless you come film me real quick". That usually gets her off the couch with the quickness.

In a younger life I was a very serious about pool. I took a lesson from a female touring pro, name of Lisa DiAtri. She said something I will never forget.
"Look around a pool hall. You see someone that you can tell just by the way they walk up to the table and go down to pocket a ball, that they are a good player. Because it's impossible to fake a good pool stroke. If you look good at the table it is because you are good. Work towards having an effortless, pretty, and powerfully committed stroke. Work towards looking like you know what the hell you are doing".

I've taken that advice through sport riding motorcycles, shooting, tennis, etc. It's has allowed me to focus on the aesthetics of the body motion required for these games.
And, I am a damn good pool player. And you can tell just by the way I hold a pool cue!
 
I like drills like the wizard. But when I practice for self defense I’m within arms reach of a paper target and I block with my weak arm while drawing and firing from the hip.

So figure under a second. I’m not aiming. Just putting rounds into the torso.

I seem to remember a study that said most self defense shoots are very close range, like under 3 feet.
 
I seem to remember a study that said most self defense shoots are very close range, like under 3 feet.
3 shots, 3 yards, 3 seconds. I think those are the numbers thrown around for typical gunfight.
 
I like 10 yards, maybe 7. Under 7 I can get away with all kinds of garbage and still bang out A zone/down zero hits specially flat footed, yeah it's fast but it doesn't transfer.
I'd say from concealment 1.5 is a pretty solid performance, not sure where mine is. 1.0 is considered good from a competition set-up 0.8s get people excited, a half second for clearing cover garment and less ideal holster and placement seems reasonable.
 
The other big factor is method of carry. IWB is always slower for me but that is my mode of carry so more often then not that is the draw I am practicing. I don't do appendix but from what I have seen it is the fastest. OWB being in between. Pocket carry varies based on which pocket you carry in etc...
I have to ask. Doesn’t appendix fall into IWB or OWB?

When you say IWB/OWB are you just referring to 2 o’clock to 5 o’clock (for RH)? And then appendix is 1-2?

Not nit-picking…really trying to see where I fall on the spectrum based on where I’m currently carrying. 😁
 
A lot of people will say that for the average concealed carry citizen, 2 seconds is good, and 1.5 seconds is very good.

You didn't actually ask for any training ideas, so just disregard this if it's offensive. :) I personally think that as you push for speed, you're better served to come in closer than to go for 10 yard shots. Train at 5 or even three yards in order to push the speed. Make good hits fast at that distance, and then you'll be faster at longer distances, too. If you don't go faster, you will never go faster. (Edit: of course, your speed gains will mostly be made dry, and only verified live, unless you have an ammo budget like the king of siam or something.)

There are two places that most people can pick up a ton of time on the draw.

First--this may sound like a joke, but it isn't--move your hands faster. A lot of the time, we move like we're going through molasses. Slap that hand onto the grip like it owes you money. Do some reps just getting onto the gun FAST.

Second, practice just reacting to the beep. Set your random start timer, and tap it with your finger as soon as you hear the beep. (Just hold your finger a couple of inches away and tap.) Aim to get something like a .17. Many people will start this drill with a reaction time closer to .3. If you take three tenths to start reacting, and then you move your hands at half speed to get to the gun, you're going to have a slow draw. If you react in .15 and move your hands like they're on fire, then you will have a much faster draw. Sounds obvious, right, but I needed someone to tell it all to me. :)

One other thing that can really help is to make sure you're prepping the trigger as the sights come into your line of sight. Don't wait until you're on the target to start the trigger press. And you can be cleaning up the sight picture as you're extending to the target, too. That way, once you reach full extension, you're ready to fire. You don't get out there and aim for three tenths before starting the trigger press.
The one little nugget I’ll add that has stuck with me from some 1:1 training with @Apex Defense Group is regarding clearing the concealing garment. Don’t play fancy games trying to hook a thumb under the hem or anything else. Grab a handful and get it out of the way. Main reason was you probably won’t get a chance to try again, so be sure of it the first time.
 
I have to ask. Doesn’t appendix fall into IWB or OWB?

When you say IWB/OWB are you just referring to 2 o’clock to 5 o’clock (for RH)? And then appendix is 1-2?

Not nit-picking…really trying to see where I fall on the spectrum based on where I’m currently carrying. 😁

Yes technically appendix carry is IWB but I use the term to refer to strong side 2 to 5 o clock. I see appendix due to its location to be different because the draw is different. It is most likely just a bias on my part.

I shot the wizard today from IWB at about 4 O'clock. T-shirt and short sleeved cover shirt bottom button only buttoned untucked.

#1 1.89
#2 2.04
#3 2.15
#4 2.28

I yanked the hell out of the last one and it landed just outside the 0 zone my target. It was a cold run. First shots of the day. This is what I get most of the time against the Wizard. I drop one of the 2 shots at 10 yards or a am slow on the last round with 0 hits but slow on the timer. I do not consider myself fast by any stretch. #dufferwithniceclubs

IMG_4554.jpg
 
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Different methods of concealment and different ways of standing and dressing affect draw time a lot…

Standing relaxed, concealed AIWB with a service-sized gun under a T-shirt, no undershirt? 1.5 seconds is an attainable goal with just a bit of dry fire. I’m comfortable in the 1.2-1.3 range without pushing it too hard.

Seated with a seatbelt on? It’s slower.

Carrying strongside/rear hip IWB, adding in other considerations like more garments to clear (or even an undershirt)? It’s going to be slower. More to screw up on the grab and the grip.

Pocket carrying a snub with good visible sights, starting hand-in-pocket? Anywhere in a steel silhouette at 10? That is real fast unless you’re sitting. Make it a paper/cardboard target at “arguing/back off” range and you can have a shot on target before an experienced shooter carrying in a belt holster can get their gun out of their hoster.
 
Different methods of concealment and different ways of standing and dressing affect draw time a lot…

Standing relaxed, concealed AIWB with a service-sized gun under a T-shirt, no undershirt? 1.5 seconds is an attainable goal with just a bit of dry fire. I’m comfortable in the 1.2-1.3 range without pushing it too hard.

Seated with a seatbelt on? It’s slower.

Carrying strongside/rear hip IWB, adding in other considerations like more garments to clear (or even an undershirt)? It’s going to be slower. More to screw up on the grab and the grip.

Pocket carrying a snub with good visible sights, starting hand-in-pocket? Anywhere in a steel silhouette at 10? That is real fast unless you’re sitting. Make it a paper/cardboard target at “arguing/back off” range and you can have a shot on target before an experienced shooter carrying in a belt holster can get their gun out of their hoster.

Which is why I like a 642 in the pocket.
 
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I'm working from strong side IWB with t-shirt or polo type shirt for concealment. Getting solid A zone hits right at 1.9-2.3. I was hoping to work that down to 1.5, but didn't' really have a benchmark for what's reasonable.

The YouTubers seem to have unreasonable concealment for what I'd consider daily wear, so their times seemed skewed to me.

If you can get that down to 1.5 you are a better man than me.
 
I'm working from strong side IWB with t-shirt or polo type shirt for concealment. Getting solid A zone hits right at 1.9-2.3. I was hoping to work that down to 1.5, but didn't' really have a benchmark for what's reasonable.

The YouTubers seem to have unreasonable concealment for what I'd consider daily wear, so their times seemed skewed to me.
2.0 is a solid time from any kind of concealment
 
2.0 is a solid time from any kind of concealment

I personally think that this the "truth". We can all recall times it was much faster and YouTube says its slow but in real time with no redos the timer does not lie.
 
Under 2 is my standard par time from concealment.

From a battle belt I’m working towards a sub second draw/first shot but I’m hung around 1.1-1.25
 
A lot of people will say that for the average concealed carry citizen, 2 seconds is good, and 1.5 seconds is very good.

You didn't actually ask for any training ideas, so just disregard this if it's offensive. :) I personally think that as you push for speed, you're better served to come in closer than to go for 10 yard shots. Train at 5 or even three yards in order to push the speed. Make good hits fast at that distance, and then you'll be faster at longer distances, too. If you don't go faster, you will never go faster. (Edit: of course, your speed gains will mostly be made dry, and only verified live, unless you have an ammo budget like the king of siam or something.)

There are two places that most people can pick up a ton of time on the draw.

First--this may sound like a joke, but it isn't--move your hands faster. A lot of the time, we move like we're going through molasses. Slap that hand onto the grip like it owes you money. Do some reps just getting onto the gun FAST.

Second, practice just reacting to the beep. Set your random start timer, and tap it with your finger as soon as you hear the beep. (Just hold your finger a couple of inches away and tap.) Aim to get something like a .17. Many people will start this drill with a reaction time closer to .3. If you take three tenths to start reacting, and then you move your hands at half speed to get to the gun, you're going to have a slow draw. If you react in .15 and move your hands like they're on fire, then you will have a much faster draw. Sounds obvious, right, but I needed someone to tell it all to me. :)

One other thing that can really help is to make sure you're prepping the trigger as the sights come into your line of sight. Don't wait until you're on the target to start the trigger press. And you can be cleaning up the sight picture as you're extending to the target, too. That way, once you reach full extension, you're ready to fire. You don't get out there and aim for three tenths before starting the trigger press.

My issue is reacting to the beep. I need to, have to, get faster. More practice.

I have watched some guys with whom I have trained....Shrek McPhee, Pat Mac, Larry V, they are all insanely fast reacting to the beep. But then, they also got paid to get good and they have done it a bazillion times.

I think people misinterpret the 'slow is smooth smooth is fast' thing. It's just another version of crawl-walk-run. I don't care how fast you are if you can't hit anything. You can't learn to hit anything if you don't start slow focusing on fundamentals. Only then can you get faster.

@NKD , Shrek McPhee does video analysis. You can send him your video ad he will break it down and send it back to him. He also does this real-time in his classes.
 
My issue is reacting to the beep. I need to, have to, get faster. More practice.

I have watched some guys with whom I have trained....Shrek McPhee, Pat Mac, Larry V, they are all insanely fast reacting to the beep. But then, they also got paid to get good and they have done it a bazillion times.

I think people misinterpret the 'slow is smooth smooth is fast' thing. It's just another version of crawl-walk-run. I don't care how fast you are if you can't hit anything. You can't learn to hit anything if you don't start slow focusing on fundamentals. Only then can you get faster.

@NKD , Shrek McPhee does video analysis. You can send him your video ad he will break it down and send it back to him. He also does this real-time in his classes.

Working with the guys at Velox Training has helped me a ton. Here’s some of the tips they shared with me:

React to the start of the beep, not the end of the beep. Just like in drag racing, reaction time is a big part of your end result.

Decide the overall par time you want to beat and work towards it.

Break the draw down into steps: (Grip, Draw > Sight picture > trigger pull) and work each step individually with a par time for each which when added up is equal to your target par time.

For example I work with my shot timer on a .5 par time for each part. First I work the grip. Over and over until I’m consistently getting a good grip under/at the par time.

Then I move to the draw/sight picture/trigger pull part. Again at .5 par time until I’m under/at the par time.

Then I change the par time to 1 sec and add it all together.

At one point I was right on the verge of hitting the sub one second draw/1st shot time. I broke a rib and had to stop that dry fire technique for a bit. I just started working back towards it.

Having the quicker draw allows more time to make acquire a good sight picture, and a good solid grip gives me a solid base for follow up shots, etc.

The “smooth is fast” stuff is bs. Fast is fast. Slow is slow. Sloppy is sloppy. If you’re fast but can hit water falling out of boat your speed means nothing.

I hope this helps somebody in their training.
 
Working with the guys at Velox Training has helped me a ton. Here’s some of the tips they shared with me:

React to the start of the beep, not the end of the beep. Just like in drag racing, reaction time is a big part of your end result.

Decide the overall par time you want to beat and work towards it.

Break the draw down into steps: (Grip, Draw > Sight picture > trigger pull) and work each step individually with a par time for each which when added up is equal to your target par time.

For example I work with my shot timer on a .5 par time for each part. First I work the grip. Over and over until I’m consistently getting a good grip under/at the par time.

Then I move to the draw/sight picture/trigger pull part. Again at .5 par time until I’m under/at the par time.

Then I change the par time to 1 sec and add it all together.

At one point I was right on the verge of hitting the sub one second draw/1st shot time. I broke a rib and had to stop that dry fire technique for a bit. I just started working back towards it.

Having the quicker draw allows more time to make acquire a good sight picture, and a good solid grip gives me a solid base for follow up shots, etc.

The “smooth is fast” stuff is bs. Fast is fast. Slow is slow. Sloppy is sloppy. If you’re fast but can hit water falling out of boat your speed means nothing.

I hope this helps somebody in their training.

I will go to my grave on this point, so I am willing to declare a modus vivendi. But I appreciate the insight on the rest.
 
My issue is reacting to the beep. I need to, have to, get faster. More practice.

I have watched some guys with whom I have trained....Shrek McPhee, Pat Mac, Larry V, they are all insanely fast reacting to the beep. But then, they also got paid to get good and they have done it a bazillion times.

I think people misinterpret the 'slow is smooth smooth is fast' thing. It's just another version of crawl-walk-run. I don't care how fast you are if you can't hit anything. You can't learn to hit anything if you don't start slow focusing on fundamentals. Only then can you get faster.

@NKD , Shrek McPhee does video analysis. You can send him your video ad he will break it down and send it back to him. He also does this real-time in his classes.

Thanks. I'd film myself and diagnose, or take it to a professional shooter I already know.
The slow is smooth thing is just dumb, imo.

If those three guys seem "insanely" fast, you should go get a lesson from somebody like Max Michel or Chris Tilley or Bob Vogel.
 
modus vivendi

ronburgundy-agree.gif
 
Thanks. I'd film myself and diagnose, or take it to a professional shooter I already know.
The slow is smooth thing is just dumb, imo.

If those three guys seem "insanely" fast, you should go get a lesson from somebody like Max Michel or Chris Tilley or Bob Vogel.

McPhee was using video diagnostics a decade ago. I am not trying to sell him; simply agreeing that video diagnostics are enormously helpful. I also agree, I would only have an instructor I know and trust give feedback.

No clue who Michel is; I have seen Tilley and Vogel.

We'll never agree on the other for sure.
 
Is there really a disagreement between “fast but not sloppy is the correct kind of fast” and “focusing on smoothness is about eliminating wasted movement before building speed?”

Fast with bad fundamentals is sloppy fast. Fast with efficient fundamentals is good fast. Good fast is smooth fast. Both require training to the point of failure-of-fundamentals-at-speed in order to progress.
 
Is there really a disagreement between “fast but not sloppy is the correct kind of fast” and “focusing on smoothness is about eliminating wasted movement before building speed?”

Fast with bad fundamentals is sloppy fast. Fast with efficient fundamentals is good fast. Good fast is smooth fast. Both require training to the point of failure-of-fundamentals-at-speed in order to progress.

I think we all agree smooth is good.
 
I like drills like the wizard. But when I practice for self defense I’m within arms reach of a paper target and I block with my weak arm while drawing and firing from the hip.

So figure under a second. I’m not aiming. Just putting rounds into the torso.

I seem to remember a study that said most self defense shoots are very close range, like under 3 feet.
We usually have at least one starting position at H20 matches where we draw and shoot from “close retention” just as you described, at arm’s length, with our elbow touching our side, arm not extended. Putting rounds in an 8” circle as fast as we can clear leather/kydex. A lot of shooters have never done it, and it’s a great skill to have.

For those who want a better idea, watch youtube clips of Raylan Givens shoot-outs. Entertaining too! 😀
 
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We usually have at least one starting position at H20 matches where we draw and shoot from “close retention” just as you described, at arm’s length, with our elbow touching our side, arm not extended. Putting rounds in an 8” circle as fast as we can clear leather/kydex. A lot of shooters have never done it, and it’s a great skill to have.

For those who want a better idea, watch youtube clips of Raylan Givens shoot-outs. Entertaining too! 😀

I always think about that seen from Collateral (about 1:10 or so):

 
We usually have at least one starting position at H20 matches where we draw and shoot from “close retention” just as you described, at arm’s length, with our elbow touching our side, arm not extended. Putting rounds in an 8” circle as fast as we can clear leather/kydex. A lot of shooters have never done it, and it’s a great skill to have.

For those who want a better idea, watch youtube clips of Raylan Givens shoot-outs. Entertaining too! 😀

Soft retention is a valuable skill. Takes practice tho. Par time should be sub second from concealment to A zone hit (IMO).
 
As far as "reacting from the beep", in the real world there is no "beep". There is simply an awareness of a threat, the decision that needs to be made if you need to react to the threat with deadly force, and then the corresponding draw and firing, including any decision making as to what is adjacent to or behind your target that could become undesired collateral damage.

Back when I was competing in the early to late '90's, whenever local SWAT teams or LEO's would shoot with us, in most instances the competitive shooters would be much faster than the law enforcement guys. This is because the worst result for me (as a competitor) if I shot a "hostage" was a ten second penalty, versus the LEO's worst result in the real world was much worse.... I was faster than them because I did not take the time to assess and reassess if a target was a good guy or bad guy, and also I was not taking the additional time to be 100% sure of my shot if the target was partially blocked by a "hostage". Rather I was "reacting from the beep" and acting based upon speed and skill. This behavior was great in terms of winning competitions, but not necessarily what would be ideal in more realistic circumstances.

Wizard drills, etc are a great way to practice, but it seems to me that if you want to practice for real world scenario's, after honing your skills with the Wizard you want a practice environment that mixes in bad guys and good guys in a manner to where the shooter does not know what's popping up next. Time spent for decision making needs to be factored in; otherwise in a real world situation you may end up killing a good guy by mistake if you're simply trained to react from the beep.

By all means you want to be fast and accurate once the decision is made, but in most drills on the range there is no decision making - simply reaction.
 
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