First .300 build - criticize, ridicule and help me

barf

barf

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So thanks to Jim Dillon (black dog armory) and @VOD Tactical I will have a new AR receiver set that I won in the raffle at the most recent 3 Gun Event in old fort.

Now I have to blow money to fill it’s hollow bones (I know, poor me).

Thinking ballistic advantage 8” barrel with adjustable gas block. And the nickel boron complete BCG and gas tube they offer as well. It’s 500 for all.

Is this overkill and/or are these fairly priced components for the quality? I’ve never built a rifle before.

Any help/shit throwing appreciated.

This will be a “buy some parts when you can” build. But I don’t want to cheap out. And I plan on suppressing it.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I have 2 8.5” BA pistols and they run subs and supers, suppressed and unsuppressed great w/o an adjustable gas block, so yes good choice.

$500 is pretty steep for those items, though. The 3 stores mentioned above would be great places to start and should be closer to $350.
 
Thanks for all the input! I know BCGs can be found cheaper. I’ll probably just get the barrel and gas block from them. That barrel is their higher end one, if that matters. Not their basic 8 inch but the 8.3 inch BA Hanson one.
 
Well since youre going for a suppressor I say go on and also Form 1 the lower as an SBR. The 8” barrel pustol AR might not be at the very front of the gun control hit list right now but pistol braces are being looked at on the sides. Having that SBR lower makes it a moot point if/when the ATF starts down that road.
 
NCFubar said:
Well since youre going for a suppressor I say go on and also Form 1 the lower as an SBR. The 8” barrel pustol AR might not be at the very front of the gun control hit list right now but pistol braces are being looked at on the sides. Having that SBR lower makes it a moot point if/when the ATF starts down that road.
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Oh I am going to do that before I buy any parts. Get it out of the way so when it’s finished it’ll be ready to rock 👍
 
berf said:
Thanks to @Jerzsubbie for pointing it out I got my barrel on the way. Bought it from @Tjohnson . Already shipped! He’s great to deal with.

Thank you both!
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Happy that barrel is finally going to see daylight. Your plan sounds very similar to mine a while back when I bought it. Between family, work, and school I just never had time to build it.
 
Yeah I’m super excited. But less excited for how much more money I’ll be spending on .300 rounds
 
berf said:
Yeah I’m super excited. But less excited for how much more money I’ll be spending on .300 rounds
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300 blackout and 10mm are the two main reasons I decided to start reloading. If you have the space to set up a bench and some free time consider rolling your own. Even if you have to pay 10 cent per primer that’s better than $2 per round like I’ve been seeing local.
 
Bigdave0924 said:
300 blackout and 10mm are the two main reasons I decided to start reloading. If you have the space to set up a bench and some free time consider rolling your own. Even if you have to pay 10 cent per primer that’s better than $2 per round like I’ve been seeing local.
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In reading about .300 blackout I saw it mentioned that it’s expensive unless you reload. It may be another semi expensive rabbit hole to go but worth it in the end. How much (ball park) would a basic reloading setup be for just .300?
 
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berf said:
In reading about .300 blackout I saw it mentioned that it’s expensive unless you reload. It may be another semi expensive rabbit hole to go but worth it in the end. How much (ball park) would a basic reloading setup be for just .300?
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There’s a large price difference between brands.
If you don’t use Lee dies, BUY a Lee factory crimp die to help keep a 300BLK from being accidentally chambered in a 5.57/223.
There’s a lot of threads here on the 300BLK.

Do You Crimp 300BLK Rounds?

I use the Lee Factory Crimp as extra insurance in case a 300BLK round finds its way into a 223 magazine/rifle. Additionally the crimp is supposed to increase accuracy by delivering a more consistent pressure curve as the bullet enters the rifling, whether the bullet has a cannelure or not. I...
carolinafirearmsforum.com
 
skip the adjustable gas block and save some coin. not worth the squeeze, imo. i have found that the 8.3in BA hansons are perfectly gassed for both subs and supers, suppressed or not with a standard h2 behind them.
 
berf said:
In reading about .300 blackout I saw it mentioned that it’s expensive unless you reload. It may be another semi expensive rabbit hole to go but worth it in the end. How much (ball park) would a basic reloading setup be for just .300?
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It’s hard to say really. If you don’t mind bare bones and being a little less efficient you could buy all the tools for $500 if you shop around and buy some used stuff here and there. Honestly you won’t save any money in the long run reloading. It is expensive to get started and you have to load a lot to come out ahead.
 
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maven said:
skip the adjustable gas block and save some coin. not worth the squeeze, imo. i have found that the 8.3in BA hansons are perfectly gassed for both subs and supers, suppressed or not with a standard h2 behind them.
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Agreed. 3 BA 300BLK and all run great w H2 or STT2 buffer.

I never would’ve considered 300BLK if I didn’t reload. I’m too cheap for $.70-1.00+/rd AR ammo that’s not SD/HD.

ETA: +1 to what @Bigdave0924 said. You don’t truly save money reloading. You will on paper, but Idk anyone who has saved money in reality. You end up buying more components and upgrading your equipment. On paper though, if you want to convince yourself to start reloading 300BLK, you’ll have a net savings after loading about 800-1k rounds if you go basic and get all of your equipment for $500, like a Lee Classic Turret.
 
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Sounds like including my time it will be more expensive to reload….
 
Anyone have experience with Aero Precision Atlas S-One handguards? I want one for this build but it says it may not be compatible with bullet uppers due to index tabs? Wtf is an index tab?

It’ll be on a black dog upper

758AA99A-7E8B-4FC3-B731-F14CC97C5DA7.jpeg
 
frakncylons said:
Jim would probably know. You could give him a shout.
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Yeah I will. Just not sure he has used those handguards as his receivers come with his own handguard I think. Really more interested in what the “index tabs” are
 
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I don’t see them on this?

3F442F85-0B3D-4EFE-B993-EAAB092618AB.png
 
I just watched this video. It looks like those wings on the atlas extend over the upper receiver. I think it’s likely that’s what they mean.

 
Yes I have both S-One and R-One handguard. They index on the top. I haven’t tried them with billet receivers, only with milspec and Aero M4E1 (forged that look like billet). If you have the billet receiver on hand, measure the width of the receiver under the rail and I can measure the width of the index tabs for you.
 
Jerzsubbie said:
Yes I have both S-One and R-One handguard. They index on the top. I haven’t tried them with billet receivers, only with milspec and Aero M4E1 (forged that look like billet). If you have the billet receiver on hand, measure the width of the receiver under the rail and I can measure the width of the index tabs for you.
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So measure the width here?

5F106C73-B116-4ECD-89FC-F2CB1FB06590.jpeg
 
Ok. I don’t have it yet but when I get it (this week) I’ll measure it. Thanks!
 
Upon closer inspection, the index tabs are top and bottom. I used a spare M4E1 upper to measure. As for tolerances, I can just barely slide a playing card (0.0115”) between the receiver and handguard tabs. I hope this helps.

A3839611-E502-4489-B993-5532E122B270.jpeg67813AC0-B25F-434F-A6DB-0187F575E883.jpegF65E773A-7680-4AC6-A323-0B4E182E0E43.jpeg
 
Thanks a bunch. I hope it fits, I think not having the full rail up top will make for a nice grip area.
 
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Also, BCGs. Toolcraft seems to be good and it’s an NC company. Is it worth going Diamond DLC?
 
Anyone? I’ve read the online jazz about Rockwell hardness and ease of cleaning. Just want some actual use case opinions on if DLC is worth it. Or go with something cheaper.
 
berf said:
Anyone? I’ve read the online jazz about Rockwell hardness and ease of cleaning. Just want some actual use case opinions on if DLC is worth it. Or go with something cheaper.
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DLC is the shizz on BCGs.. It is an expensive process relative to other coatings. DLC is actually a microfilm that is applied as a plasma in a negative pressure vacuum chamber, instead of a "sprayed" or "dipped" coating. It is extremely thin relative to other coating processes. It is also a low temperature application process and does not breach heat treat temperatures like high temperature processes such as NiB & TiN. NiB is an old technology and is soft. It is marginal at best, and is a cheaper process. TiN is actually applied ABOVE the heat treat temp. of the carrier material, in effect annealing (softening) the carrier. Nobody ever mentions that.
DLC actually hardens the surface above the Rockwell C scale and goes into the Vickers hardness scale. It is basically synthetic "man-made" industrial diamond.

DLC does 2 things... It increases the surface hardness, and lowers the coefficient of friction of the surface. That being said, not all DLC is the same. I have tested numerous DLC coatings in firearms and other industrial applications. The best industrial DLC is done in Rock Hill, SC by Oerlikon Balzers. They are the global leader in DLC for industry, but they don't offer their product on firearms parts at this time. Calico Coatings in Denver, NC is probably the 2nd best DLC out there, but they have limited production capacities. They do Toolcrafts DLC.
I had Oerlikon coat 70 Azimuth Technologies BCG's about 6 years ago. Azimuth is one of Colts prime BCG contractors.
We used them in several tests for military & L/E applications. They worked flawlessly. I had about 10 BCGs left from the test and run them in all my ARs.

I say go for it...!! Buy once, cry once. I don't think you will be disappointed.
 
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Hashknife said:
DLC is the shizz on BCGs.. It is an expensive process relative to other coatings. DLC is actually a microfilm that is applied as a plasma in a negative pressure vacuum chamber, instead of a "sprayed" or "dipped" coating. It is extremely thin relative to other coating processes. It is also a low temperature application process and does not breach heat treat temperatures like high temperature processes such as NiB & TiN. NiB is an old technology and is soft. It is marginal at best, and is a cheaper process TiN is actually applied ABOVE the heat treat temp. of the carrier material, in effect annealing (softening) the carrier. Nobody ever mentions that.
DLC actually hardens the surface above the Rockwell C scale and goes into the Vickers hardness scale. It is basically synthetic "man-made" industrial diamond.

DLC does 2 things... It increases the surface hardness, and lowers the coefficient of friction of the surface. That being said, not all DLC is the same. I have tested numerous DLC coatings in firearms and other industrial applications. The best industrial DLC is done in Rock Hill, SC by Oerlikon Balzers. They are the global leader in DLC for industry, but they don't offer their product on firearms parts at this time. Calico Coatings in Denver, NC is probably the 2nd best DLC out there, but they have limited production capacities. They do Toolcrafts DLC.
I had Oerlikon coat 70 Azimuth Technologies BCG's about 6 years ago. Azimuth is one of Colts prime BCG contractors.
We used them in several tests for military & L/E applications. They worked flawlessly. I had about 10 BCGs left from the test and run them in all my ARs.

I say go for it...!! Buy once, cry once. I don't think you will be disappointed.
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Wow. You went above and beyond! I like your answer and will cry soon as I go with the toolcraft DLC. Thank you so much!
 
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