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Average Joe

Average Joe

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Which folding knife with a 4” blade would you recommend for a bushcraft/survival type knife. (I know folders aren’t the best choice for this task. However, for this mission it must be a folding knife.)
 
It's probably ly not the best option. I've been carrying one of these for ~26 years. Tough, light, easily sharpened, good price for what you get. I'm SURE there's better pricing elsewhere.
www.coldsteel.com

VOYAGER LARGE TANTO POINT - PLAIN EDGE (AUS10A)

The Cold Steel Voyager series is designed to be the true "everyman" knife. Lightweight, comfortable, and super sharp, they are rugged, dependable and perfec
www.coldsteel.com www.coldsteel.com
@thrillhill isnt a fan of CS, I'll bet he's got other options.
 
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Need to add that the blade length must be a maximum of 4”. Doesn’t need to be exactly 4”, slightly shorter is ok. Also it will be a very occasional use blade, meaning I’m looking for a middle of the road quality, not top shelf.
 
Check out the RAT In D2. One of the best values for a folder out there.

The RAT1 is 3.6”

The RAT2 is 3”

Ontario RAT Model 1 Knife Black - D2 Satin - Blade HQ

The Ontario RAT Model 1 is a superb offering from Ontario Knife Company (OKC). This one has a black handle and a satin D2 blade. 8867
www.bladehq.com
 
Not a bush knife but this Kershaw Ken Onion design is thinner and sharp as heck. I’ve cut myself a lot because it’s like a razor. Would be a great cutter or skinning tool. Would be less than on this site at a reseller. 3” blade. I have a number of higher cost knives but I carry this one much more for work.
kershaw.kaiusa.com

Leek - Purple

<p>The brilliant purple color of this Leek’s anodized-aluminum handle is a fade-resistant, scratch-resistant dye that’s permanently bonded to the aluminum—so it looks good now and will continue to look good later. The bu
kershaw.kaiusa.com kershaw.kaiusa.com
 
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Average Joe said:
Which folding knife with a 4” blade would you recommend for a bushcraft/survival type knife. (I know folders aren’t the best choice for this task. However, for this mission it must be a folding knife.)
Click to expand...

839E7CD9-C70A-4B71-A2E7-B7BC0A73DE54.jpeg

My EDC is Benchmade Adamas (4” blade). Solid performer and pretty tough. In my opinion, the one drawback to it being ideal for a folder in a BC/Survival role is the blade steel…it’s D2 and in a field environment, I don’t believe it is easier to maintain than say, a blade constructed of 1095.

My ideal Bushcraft/Survival folder would be identical to the Adamas in every way, but would have a Kephart style 1095 blade…now, that would be the shiznit.

Blade is .160 thick, just a couple c-hairs over 1/8”….I may get aholt of some 1/8 or 3/16 1095 stock and try making a Kephart style blade for it, just for s&g.
 
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Is this for legit bushcrafting, like going out in the woods, making coffee over a fire, carving a spoon and cooking wild ramps?

Or just general outdoors activities?

If it's the former, Battle Horse Knives made a slipjoint knife called the Tree Frog that actually uses 2 pins to become a fixed blade. Scandi ground, very traditional bushcraft knife.

If it's for milling about in the woods, I guess it really is what you are comfortable carrying. There are woodsmen that could live outside 24/7 with an Old Timer Stockman or Case Canoe.

Anyhow, any modern folder by Kershaw, Spyderco, Benchmade, Cold Steel, CRKT, Ontario and the like will do you just fine.
 
Average Joe said:
Which folding knife with a 4” blade would you recommend for a bushcraft/survival type knife. (I know folders aren’t the best choice for this task. However, for this mission it must be a folding knife.)
Click to expand...
The guys on BushcraftUSA are always going on about knives..
What are the tasks that it needs to be able to do?
It'll make a difference concerning blade/spine shape and material.
 
yard mongrel said:
Is this for legit bushcrafting, like going out in the woods, making coffee over a fire, carving a spoon and cooking wild ramps?

Or just general outdoors activities?

If it's the former, Battle Horse Knives made a slipjoint knife called the Tree Frog that actually uses 2 pins to become a fixed blade. Scandi ground, very traditional bushcraft knife.

If it's for milling about in the woods, I guess it really is what you are comfortable carrying. There are woodsmen that could live outside 24/7 with an Old Timer Stockman or Case Canoe.

Anyhow, any modern folder by Kershaw, Spyderco, Benchmade, Cold Steel, CRKT, Ontario and the like will do you just fine.
Click to expand...

HawgBonz said:
The guys on BushcraftUSA are always going on about knives..
What are the tasks that it needs to be able to do?
It'll make a difference concerning blade/spine shape and material.
Click to expand...
It is for taking it to a location where only a folding knife with a blade 4” or less. So it will serve many roles. Personal protection (no other weapons are allowed), general pocket knife duties, and if things go south something that I can use for survival/bushcraft.
 
They talk a lot about needing a carbon steel blade spine with sharp 90's if yer gonna go the ferro rod route.
I pack a small ferro and striker in my lil "necessities" box and it works fine but a lighter wrapped in the ever handy electrical tape in my pocket makes it so I can tote lower maintenance/easier to sharpen blades cause I ain't really a "knife guy". Although they seem to be breeding somewhere in the house and truck..
..In honesty I can't say that I ever remember going into the woods with just one. There's always a mid size SAK in the mix and a skeletal "Leatherman" with a blade that's mighty handy. Plus a dedicated "eatin knife" for when some luckless varmint or mushroom ends up on the spit.
I carry all my usual mess in/on an LBV so there's room for everything. Kinda like an old lady's purse.. But heavier and not-so-stylish.
..I guess I'm actually no real help so I'll STFU and see what the woodsier cats hafta say.. 💩🦨🐻
 
HawgBonz said:
They talk a lot about needing a carbon steel blade spine with sharp 90's if yer gonna go the ferro rod route.
I pack a small ferro and striker in my lil "necessities" box and it works fine but a lighter wrapped in the ever handy electrical tape in my pocket makes it so I can tote lower maintenance/easier to sharpen blades cause I ain't really a "knife guy". Although they seem to be breeding somewhere in the house and truck..
..In honesty I can't say that I ever remember going into the woods with just one. There's always a mid size SAK in the mix and a skeletal "Leatherman" with a blade that's mighty handy. Plus a dedicated "eatin knife" for when some luckless varmint or mushroom ends up on the spit.
I carry all my usual mess in/on an LBV so there's room for everything. Kinda like an old lady's purse.. But heavier and not-so-stylish.
..I guess I'm actually no real help so I'll STFU and see what the woodsier cats hafta say.. 💩🦨🐻
Click to expand...
I got more out of that post than you know. All input is welcome, especially the funny stuff 🤣🤣🤣
 
Dale Gribble said:
View attachment 551911

My EDC is Benchmade Adamas (4” blade). Solid performer and pretty tough. In my opinion, the one drawback to it being ideal for a folder in a BC/Survival role is the blade steel…it’s D2 and in a field environment, I don’t believe it is easier to maintain than say, a blade constructed of 1095.

My ideal Bushcraft/Survival folder would be identical to the Adamas in every way, but would have a Kephart style 1095 blade…now, that would be the shiznit.

Blade is .160 thick, just a couple c-hairs over 1/8”….I may get aholt of some 1/8 or 3/16 1095 stock and try making a Kephart style blade for it, just for s&g.
Click to expand...
I love my Adamas. But, they are pricey. Even more so than when I bought mine.

Average Joe said:
It is for taking it to a location where only a folding knife with a blade 4” or less. So it will serve many roles. Personal protection (no other weapons are allowed), general pocket knife duties, and if things go south something that I can use for survival/bushcraft.
Click to expand...
Adding personal protection ups the ante. You're going to want the strongest lock available and that's not going to be a liner lock, unless it's one of the heavy duty ones. The Adamas uses an axis lock that effectively makes the folder a fixed blade when it's open. But, the Adamas is a high price point. I think the Benchmade Bugout might be suitable at a lower price point. There are a lot of potential options and I haven't shopped in a while.
Do not get a serrated edge. My emphasis on the locking mechanism is reports of liner locks failing under stress, possib in part due to accidental activation during a fight, but also a lot of lateral stress on the mechanism. Also, in a bushcraft environment, you're going to want to be able to baton the knife to split wood.

As mentioned, also carry a multi-tool with a backup knife blade.

Just my .02 for the moment. I could talk knives for hours. Blade designs, blade materials, locking mechanisms, etc.

Benchmade Bugout Knives | Blade HQ

Shop the complete Benchmade Bugout line of knives at Blade HQ. Get your Bugout pocket knife with fast, FREE shipping on all Benchmade orders!
www.bladehq.com
 
yard mongrel said:
Is this for legit bushcrafting, like going out in the woods, making coffee over a fire, carving a spoon and cooking wild ramps?

Or just general outdoors activities?

If it's the former, Battle Horse Knives made a slipjoint knife called the Tree Frog that actually uses 2 pins to become a fixed blade. Scandi ground, very traditional bushcraft knife.

If it's for milling about in the woods, I guess it really is what you are comfortable carrying. There are woodsmen that could live outside 24/7 with an Old Timer Stockman or Case Canoe.

Anyhow, any modern folder by Kershaw, Spyderco, Benchmade, Cold Steel, CRKT, Ontario and the like will do you just fine.
Click to expand...
Now that’s completely different.

Battle Horse Knives Tree Frog Folding Knife Black Micarta (3.5" Satin) BHK - Blade HQ

The Tree Frog represents the first bushcraft folding knife to be offered from Battle Horse Knives. It features textured micarta handle scales, an O1 tool steel blade, and an innovative pin locking system. Stainless steel pins hold the blade securely locked in the open or closed position. They...
www.bladehq.com
 
These are $50 at Walmart, and have a heavy blade for a folder. Right at 4”. And is a great knife. I have a couple of them.

www.crkt.com

FOSSIL™

Makes All of your Other Knives Extinct.Brazilian genius Flavio Ikoma’s latest everyday carry knife looks like an artful prehistoric fossil with multi-colored G10 overlays and a hammered finished frame. He evolved the design from there with the IKBS™ ball bearing pivot system and a beast of a...
www.crkt.com www.crkt.com
 
Not really enough information to formulate an good answer.

Weekend/3 or 4 day only type deal where you probably won't be at a severe disadvantage if you can't sharpen in the field? Or FOR REAL bushcraft where in the field for weeks at minimum or unknown period of time?

Bushcraft in what region/climate? Any saltwater considerations?

Realistic chance of cleaning animals/fish?

Not gonna have a hatchet?

Is there a reason why you'd rather defend your life with a baby knife than a big stick?

Is there REALLY a chance someone's life is gonna depend on it if you've put monetary restrictions on it or is this just a "stock my bag" mental exercise?

If I had more info I could come up with an answer that would maybe fit the bill before it is promptly ignored.


For what it's worth, with the limited info presented, I'd probably grab my Benchmade Bugout.

If I thought I was going to woods and not coming out for an undetermined amount of time, and for some weird reason I had to meet Joe's parameters, I'd probably opt for $15 Opinel No. 8 and leave the self defense to the big sticks.

 
A $25 Eafengrow knockoff (or three) would serve. They are nicer than the price suggests and they are disposable
 
Dale Gribble said:
View attachment 551911

My EDC is Benchmade Adamas (4” blade). Solid performer and pretty tough. In my opinion, the one drawback to it being ideal for a folder in a BC/Survival role is the blade steel…it’s D2 and in a field environment, I don’t believe it is easier to maintain than say, a blade constructed of 1095.

My ideal Bushcraft/Survival folder would be identical to the Adamas in every way, but would have a Kephart style 1095 blade…now, that would be the shiznit.

Blade is .160 thick, just a couple c-hairs over 1/8”….I may get aholt of some 1/8 or 3/16 1095 stock and try making a Kephart style blade for it, just for s&g.
Click to expand...
Benchmade website states the knife is CPM-CruWear one of the best high end materials used. 3.25” or 3.83” models. One heck of a built product. I have one but it made me sweat handing my card to the guy. Small one is $265 and larger is $350. Definitely a lifetime tool.
 
See, this is why exercises like this make my face hurt.

The man in his OP listed "survival" as 1/3 of his parameters. The other two being bushcraft and no longer than 4 inch blade.

Survival at it's core means "life and death".

I think we (myself included) have become so soft as a society, even in our circles, that the term "survival" no longer carries the weight it once did. It's become a buzzword to categorize a functional characteristic of a knife or gun.

Weekend outings where we can whittle some feathersticks so you can be the cool dad at the boyscout campout and then regale the dads from town with stories about our equipment and how cheap it is but still gets the job done is barely bushcraft, certainly not survival, and your life is not gonna depend on that blade.

Nobody believes you @Average Joe! LOL! Do you believe it yourself? That the knife you're discussing can make the difference between whether you live or die??!!

Seriously, if we were online talking to an Alaskan bush pilot who doesn't know much about guns, who had came on the forum to ask "What would be a good gun to keep in my survival kit in case I have to walk out and it takes me 4 weeks to reach civilization but due to weight restrictions it can't weigh more than 2 pounds?" would we really be talking about Hi-Points and Heritage Arms? Get a Jimenez, they're so cheap you can buy 4 of them, just shoot one empty and move on to the next one! LOL

Go to Walmart. Get a Chinese made one. Go cheap cause ya might loose it. What in the world?

Not picking on anybody in particular. It's all of us. It's the way we think. Saving money was built into the equation ala post #3.

If it really could be a matter of true survival, that wouldn't have been mentioned. We're on a gun forum where a lot of us spend maybe tens of thousands of dollars to have nice firearms for every conceivable use, real and imagined.

I've got some of the $25 Chinese knives that are way nicer than the price would suggest. Survival? No. You aren't sharpening D2 with field expedient materials. Same goes for anything from Gerber, Kershaw, CRKT, Cold Steel (except Carbon V which I don't think came in folding knives) and all the other "mainstream" mid-priced brands. And if you don't pick your steel carefully, the same thing might certainly apply to high end knives as well.

Knives don't have to be expensive to have a steel type that would suit your needs for survival. But as mentioned above, self defense changes things. You're asking a lot when you want that one tool to be really good at multiple things. We all know about the compromises involved with that line of thinking.

If it REALLY could mean life and death, choose wisely.

If not, throw a dart and pick whatever disposable "box-opening, steakhouse man-signaling" thrifty but "good enough" blade suits your fancy.

And once again, if you can't sharpen a knife at home with a degree of skill, you aren't gonna be able to do it in the field either. If you aren't gonna be in the field long enough to have to sharpen the knife, it's not a "survival" situation anyway.
 
Frack N Cylons said:
Check out the RAT In D2. One of the best values for a folder out there.

The RAT1 is 3.6”

The RAT2 is 3”

Ontario RAT Model 1 Knife Black - D2 Satin - Blade HQ

The Ontario RAT Model 1 is a superb offering from Ontario Knife Company (OKC). This one has a black handle and a satin D2 blade. 8867
www.bladehq.com
Click to expand...
Agreed, I have a couple RAT1’s, solid knives and great value. The blade is sturdier than my beloved Kershaw Blur EDC.

BlackGun said:
Not a bush knife but this Kershaw Ken Onion design is thinner and sharp as heck. I’ve cut myself a lot because it’s like a razor. Would be a great cutter or skinning tool. Would be less than on this site at a reseller. 3” blade. I have a number of higer cost kbives but I carry this one much more for work.
kershaw.kaiusa.com

Leek - Purple

<p>The brilliant purple color of this Leek’s anodized-aluminum handle is a fade-resistant, scratch-resistant dye that’s permanently bonded to the aluminum—so it looks good now and will continue to look good later. The bu
kershaw.kaiusa.com kershaw.kaiusa.com
Click to expand...
I’ll echo the “not a bushcraft knife”! I actually never use my Leek because the blade seems so delicate. It is sharp, but not super strong. I also dislike the smooth aluminum body, difficult to grip.
 
I posted the buck folding hunter because it stood up to the use I put it to; granted I'm not bear grylls nor a high-speed low-drag operator. I did use it to do most chores in camp with scouts, from batoning larger wood into kindling to cutting down small (2-3") saplings. With a small stone that is part of my edc, I can keep it plenty sharp, and the lock held up well.

I have fancier pricier knives but I know THAT one had taken what I have dished out. If I could only have one it would be one I trust.
 
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Car0linab0y said:
I posted the buck folding hunter because it stood up to the use I put it to; granted I'm not bear grylls nor a high-speed low-drag operator. I did use it to do most chores in camp with scouts, from batoning larger wood into kindling to cutting down small (2-3") saplings. With a small stone that is part of my edc, I can keep it plenty sharp, and the lock held up well.

I have fancier pricier knives but I know THAT one had taken what I have dished out. If I could only have one it would be one I trust.
Click to expand...

I like the classic Buck 110 in that role, especially with a small sharpening stone. Can't speak to the self defense aspect of it. I'm the wrong person to offer advice there.
 
thrillhill said:
I like the classic Buck 110 in that role, especially with a small sharpening stone. Can't speak to the self defense aspect of it. I'm the wrong person to offer advice there.
Click to expand...

I saw a knife fight one time between two hillbillies with folding knives. Might have been an Old Timer vs Buck 110.

They didn’t seem to have much trouble cutting the hell out of each other. 😂

I think mountain people have something in their genetics that bestows upon them some kinda Hilljack Kung Fu cause none of them have formal training but they seem to be good at causing harm drunk or sober.
 
Speaking of field sharpening, I like this little diamond steel from eze lap. Its a course hone and a little aggressive when you first use it. After a few uses it settles down and provides a quick easy edge on most steels. Its small and doesn't take up much room and unlike stones, its not easily broken.

Sportsmans Diamond Hone https://a.co/d/jbYtROk
 
cold1 said:
Speaking of field sharpening, I like this little diamond steel from eze lap. Its a course hone and a little aggressive when you first use it. After a few uses it settles down and provides a quick easy edge on most steels. Its small and doesn't take up much room and unlike stones, its not easily broken.

Sportsmans Diamond Hone https://a.co/d/jbYtROk
Click to expand...
Have something similar; mine has a groove in it for sharpening hooks.
 
thrillhill said:
See, this is why exercises like this make my face hurt.

The man in his OP listed "survival" as 1/3 of his parameters. The other two being bushcraft and no longer than 4 inch blade.

Survival at it's core means "life and death".

I think we (myself included) have become so soft as a society, even in our circles, that the term "survival" no longer carries the weight it once did. It's become a buzzword to categorize a functional characteristic of a knife or gun.

Weekend outings where we can whittle some feathersticks so you can be the cool dad at the boyscout campout and then regale the dads from town with stories about our equipment and how cheap it is but still gets the job done is barely bushcraft, certainly not survival, and your life is not gonna depend on that blade.

Nobody believes you @Average Joe! LOL! Do you believe it yourself? That the knife you're discussing can make the difference between whether you live or die??!!

Seriously, if we were online talking to an Alaskan bush pilot who doesn't know much about guns, who had came on the forum to ask "What would be a good gun to keep in my survival kit in case I have to walk out and it takes me 4 weeks to reach civilization but due to weight restrictions it can't weigh more than 2 pounds?" would we really be talking about Hi-Points and Heritage Arms? Get a Jimenez, they're so cheap you can buy 4 of them, just shoot one empty and move on to the next one! LOL

Go to Walmart. Get a Chinese made one. Go cheap cause ya might loose it. What in the world?

Not picking on anybody in particular. It's all of us. It's the way we think. Saving money was built into the equation ala post #3.

If it really could be a matter of true survival, that wouldn't have been mentioned. We're on a gun forum where a lot of us spend maybe tens of thousands of dollars to have nice firearms for every conceivable use, real and imagined.

I've got some of the $25 Chinese knives that are way nicer than the price would suggest. Survival? No. You aren't sharpening D2 with field expedient materials. Same goes for anything from Gerber, Kershaw, CRKT, Cold Steel (except Carbon V which I don't think came in folding knives) and all the other "mainstream" mid-priced brands. And if you don't pick your steel carefully, the same thing might certainly apply to high end knives as well.

Knives don't have to be expensive to have a steel type that would suit your needs for survival. But as mentioned above, self defense changes things. You're asking a lot when you want that one tool to be really good at multiple things. We all know about the compromises involved with that line of thinking.

If it REALLY could mean life and death, choose wisely.

If not, throw a dart and pick whatever disposable "box-opening, steakhouse man-signaling" thrifty but "good enough" blade suits your fancy.

And once again, if you can't sharpen a knife at home with a degree of skill, you aren't gonna be able to do it in the field either. If you aren't gonna be in the field long enough to have to sharpen the knife, it's not a "survival" situation anyway.
Click to expand...
And this is why I’m glad we are friends! You have more knowledge regarding knives than anyone I know and you break it down to realistic scenarios. I’m traveling and don’t have time to get long winded.

Short version, in this situation, I would put more emphasis on defense than bushcraft. I love the idea of a big stick, but they may not be readily available (think cruise ship, found out that the cruise line allows small folding knives with a blade length less than 4”).

Any survival/bushcraft would certainly be limited to only a few days at max (or so I would hope). So game/fish processing would be minimal. A few feather sticks for starting fires and that should surface. Saltwater would be of concern. Which was one reason I went with mid tier instead of top tier. And this would only be carried once a year on vacation.
 
Don't know if these prices are "mid-tier" enough or not. I've carried from this series on 4 day saltwater fishing trips before and been very pleased.

Spyderco Salt Knives - Corrosion Resistant Knives | Blade HQ

Spyderco Salt knives are built with materials that withstand the harshest environments. If you're around salt, humidity, or water, a Spyderco Salt is for you.
www.bladehq.com



Hey @FishHunt, what was the one you had over here the other night?
 
thrillhill said:
Don't know if these prices are "mid-tier" enough or not. I've carried from this series on 4 day saltwater fishing trips before and been very pleased.

Spyderco Salt Knives - Corrosion Resistant Knives | Blade HQ

Spyderco Salt knives are built with materials that withstand the harshest environments. If you're around salt, humidity, or water, a Spyderco Salt is for you.
www.bladehq.com



Hey @FishHunt, what was the one you had over here the other night?
Click to expand...
Spydie Salts are awesome. I like the H1 fine as it takes a nice edge pretty easily.

EB0A2621-EA54-4C20-AE89-75189D069DEA.png
 
thrillhill said:
Don't know if these prices are "mid-tier" enough or not. I've carried from this series on 4 day saltwater fishing trips before and been very pleased.

Spyderco Salt Knives - Corrosion Resistant Knives | Blade HQ

Spyderco Salt knives are built with materials that withstand the harshest environments. If you're around salt, humidity, or water, a Spyderco Salt is for you.
www.bladehq.com



Hey @FishHunt, what was the one you had over here the other night?
Click to expand...

Frack N Cylons said:
Spydie Salts are awesome. I like the H1 fine as it takes a nice edge pretty easily.

View attachment 552123
Click to expand...
I think I may have a winner! Thanks guys!
 
@thrillhill , you have any good big stick recommendations for survival? I like a good Crape Myrtle branch myself.

@Average Joe , as others stated, go with a Spyderco Salt, if this will be in the saltwater. If self defense is the next point of concern, go with one in Hawkbill Salt; I'm sure one of our Lumberton residents can extol the virtues of that blade shape in self defense scenario.

ETA: Spydie H1 is incredibly easy to get hair popping sharp. I've never really let one reach dull, but it has some unique properties like "work hardenability" if you like nerding out on knife steel.
 
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thrillhill said:
Cold Steel (except Carbon V which I don't think came in folding knives)
Click to expand...

Case's Carbon Vanadium knives are Carbon V steel. I guess their supplier was different from Cold Steel, as their supplier was Camillus, which halted Carbon V production when they became a Chinese legacy brand.
 
yard mongrel said:
@thrillhill , you have any good big stick recommendations for survival? I like a good Crape Myrtle branch myself.

@Average Joe , as others stated, go with a Spyderco Salt, if this will be in the saltwater. If self defense is the next point of concern, go with one in Hawkbill Salt; I'm sure one of our Lumberton residents can extol the virtues of that blade shape in self defense scenario.

ETA: Spydie H1 is incredibly easy to get hair popping sharp. I've never really let one reach dull, but it has some unique properties like "work hardenability" if you like nerding out on knife steel.
Click to expand...

818C5719-8BAD-4542-8F66-1FD8EBA690B9.jpeg


Ah yes, aggressive blade shape indeed
Love a Spyderhawk
 
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A skosh over yer 4" and a little "old news", but apparently it works for stated purpose(s).. 😏
Done up and "kilt him a bar!" 🐻
A sound choice in the absence of an official Red Ryder, carbine action,
200-shot, range model air rifle, with a compass in the stock and this thing that tells time.. 🎅 🤠👍
 
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