Gas logs re-valve question.

Sneakymedic

Sneakymedic

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@Burt Gummer

So my old gas log valve was sticking and not working well. So I bought another valve, but the old valve has 4 posts, the new one three. The directions say the third pole (far left) intentionally has no screw so you " couldn't make a mistake". So the dark brown wire goes to the thermopile. The white wires go to the milivolt thermostat. I still can't get gas to flow. Any of you guys do gas work? I'm a little paranoid to begin with. Ha. The old valve has the blue cover and you can see how it was wired prior to me taking it out.20201014_212654.jpg 20201014_212714.jpg
 
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Sorry. Mine was just one wire I believe.
 
I think the 2 reds go to the terminal on the right of your picture. Thermopile white goes on middle terminal and thermostat white goes on the terminal without a screw. You will need a spade connector to plug it in similar to the factory black wire you see plugged in to right terminal.
 
If you pause the video for the couple of frames where he shows the schematic you should be able to figure it out pretty quickly. I think you will need another screw for the terminal without a screw unless there is a FastOn terminal there that I can't see. That was a good video.........right up until he lit the "main burner" on a WOODEN bench and nearly lost his arm!! :eek:
 
So I changed it to the wall thermostat is on the right and the TH lead on the left. The thermopile is on the center and middle. I included the milivolt hook up. I wonder if there is an issue with the wall thermostat, as you had to tap it a time or two to get the logs to ignite.

So the ignitor wire is out of play since I physically ignite the gas logs myself on pilot.

I appreciate yall looking over this with me.

20201015_203621.jpg 20201015_203634.jpg
 
With power off, try to clean the contacts on the wall thermostat unless it is a sealed mercury switch. Hi resistance will cause mv to drop.
 
I never saw a picture with the wires off and all white lettering showing. Gas valves are different in wire placement.

The valve shows where each wire goes. TH stands for thermostat. TP stands for thermopile. Once you verify two red wires are on the terminal labeled TH and TP, the white thermostat wire is alone on TH terminal, and the white wire from the thermopile is on the labeled TP terminal you are wired correctly. Don’t use any wiring diagram that did not come in the valve box and it becomes simpler.

Make sure the thermostat is on the wall level using a small level. If it is not on the wall AND level it’s not going to work if it’s mercury bulb. The other type thermostat is a coiled piece of bi-metal.

Turn the thermostat after all these checks above down to the lowest point. Light the pilot by following the procedure until the pilot stays on using the heated thermopile. The thermopile generates a small current to hold open the pilot valve. This can take a minute or longer. The pilot flame must make very good contact with the thermopile stem to heat up. Once the thermopile proves there is a lit pilot it holds open the pilot solenoid open. Then the thermostat takes over temperature regulation which opens the main solenoid for gas to travel to the burner.

Note: If you remove the two thermostat wires and twist them together and the logs operate, the problem is the thermostat. Could be leveling, could be not red wire on R terminal and white wire on W terminal, bulb or coiled spring is out of range, or the contacts do not cleanly meet. After the test untwist wires immediately and go pick up a bimetallic thermostat replacement if it works.

Note2: Make certain before you do anything to check for connection leaks where you replaced the gas valve using a gas leak detection liquid or some liquid dish wash/water dabbed around each of the fittings.
 
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