Got Stuck

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Well it finally happened. Had my first squib yesterday. It was 45 auto 230gr LRN using Win231 powder (don't know amount off the top of my head info out in load shed) Heard a pop and not much bang. Went oh &^*% and cleared the pistol and sure enough bullet was stuck in barrel. Tried to just knock it out today but ended up having to drill it out. Then spent about 30 minutes cleaning barrel. No damage to barrel thank goodness.

Had loaded up 100 rounds, have about 86 left that I am going to pull. Not taking any chances with the rest. I am pretty careful about checking powder and re-checking on scale, also visual check cases before seating bullet. Just wish I knew where I went wrong.

EDIT: powder was Bullseye 4.8gr
 
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Any unburnt powder in the pistol/case when you cleared the jam? If so that could indicate bad or contaminated powder, obstructed flash hole.
Where all powder charges measured and weighed, measured by dipper or be powder measure?
Type of powder can make a difference as some will bridge in a powder measure more than others. Amount of powder in the measure can also make a difference.
CF
 
Any unburnt powder in the pistol/case when you cleared the jam? If so that could indicate bad or contaminated powder, obstructed flash hole.
Where all powder charges measured and weighed, measured by dipper or be powder measure?
Type of powder can make a difference as some will bridge in a powder measure more than others. Amount of powder in the measure can also make a difference.
CF

No unburnt powder that I noticed. Case was very black. Bottom of bullet was thick black coating.
I use Hornady Lock-N-Load Powder Measure. Normally for pistol loads I check weight about every 10 to 15 rounds.

That was my second batch of a hundred that day and I guess I just did not do a good visual check when seating. Lesson learned and thankfully no damage done.

At least my 9mm loads and .308 Win loads tested great and I also shot three good 22lr bench rest targets. So overall another good day at the range. Now I just have to pull all those bullets. Ugh!
 
@Chihuahua Floyd Got to thinking about what you said about enough powder in the measurer. I remember wondering if there was enough left in there to finish the last few rounds.

Thanks for the info.
 
You need to go to Midway or Brownell's and order a range rod for every pistol caliber that you reload for, that way you can remove stuck bullets without the use of a drill.....
 
You need to go to Midway or Brownell's and order a range rod for every pistol caliber that you reload for, that way you can remove stuck bullets without the use of a drill.....

Bailey Boat is right. They may seem like a waste of money, until you need one, but there is no substitute for having the right tool for the job.
 
You need to go to Midway or Brownell's and order a range rod for every pistol caliber that you reload for, that way you can remove stuck bullets without the use of a drill.....

I always have range rods with me, never without. Did not work. Used drill because all else failed. Drill was last choice. Even tried ball puller I use for my musket.
 
I wouldn't want a drill bit anywhere near my rifling. Brass ram rod and a hefty wacker.
 
I wouldn't want a drill bit anywhere near my rifling. Brass ram rod and a hefty wacker.

Understand that rod and BIG hammer did not work. In fact brass rod started to bend. Even let it soak in some Ballistol for an hour. I have a decent drill press so I was not "that" worried about any damage to barrel. Drilled hole then took machinist sizing rod (not sure of actual name) close in size to the inside of the barrel and a couple of love taps and it was out.
 
I have an old 3 piece aluminum cleaning rod that came in a cleaning kit that i quit using a while back....that with a hammer works just fine. The correct size wooden dowel is good too..... Put some penetrating oil in the bore and tap away.
 
I have an old 3 piece aluminum cleaning rod that came in a cleaning kit that i quit using a while back....that with a hammer works just fine. The correct size wooden dowel is good too..... Put some penetrating oil in the bore and tap away.

Both of those tools used in this application will leave you in tears one day, but on the bright side you'll have a new barrel/gun...
 
No unburnt powder that I noticed. Case was very black. Bottom of bullet was thick black coating.
Sounds like no powder in the case. I've had one squib before, and what you describe sounds exactly like what I experienced (except I was able to easily knock the bullet out). I even intentionally loaded another round with just a primer, just to verify the symptoms. Same result, thick black coating on the bottom of the bullet and inside of the case.
 
Sounds like no powder in the case. I've had one squib before, and what you describe sounds exactly like what I experienced (except I was able to easily knock the bullet out). I even intentionally loaded another round with just a primer, just to verify the symptoms. Same result, thick black coating on the bottom of the bullet and inside of the case.

I am pretty sure there was some powder just because it was so hard to get out and there was a lot of lead melted into the walls of the barrel. If it was an empty case the bullet would of just tapped out. I have only had this happen once before and I was just able to lightly tap the bullet out just using a rod. Took quite a bit of brushing to get the lead out, but all is good.
 
I have never heard of range rods either. I found a couple of things on Brownells and Midway but they look more like centering rods for chambering or threading barrels and they have taper on them. Are those what you mean? They are $50-100+ each.

I got some 3' tool steel rods from McMaster Carr for $6-9 each in the sizes just under 22 rimfire, 223, 30, 9mm, and 45 to test suppressor alignment. I test very carefully and with oil on the rod to avoid marring the rifling. Are those the same (but cheaper) thing as range rods? Are tightly fitted steel rods OK to use to hammer out bullets? If so, excellent!
 
I have never heard of range rods either. I found a couple of things on Brownells and Midway but they look more like centering rods for chambering or threading barrels and they have taper on them. Are those what you mean? They are $50-100+ each.

I got some 3' tool steel rods from McMaster Carr for $6-9 each in the sizes just under 22 rimfire, 223, 30, 9mm, and 45 to test suppressor alignment. I test very carefully and with oil on the rod to avoid marring the rifling. Are those the same (but cheaper) thing as range rods? Are tightly fitted steel rods OK to use to hammer out bullets? If so, excellent!

I wouldn't put steel rods in a barrel unless I could put heat shrink tubing over it.
 
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