I have tried to deprime these igman 223 55 grain casings but it seems half of them are completely stuck and if I force through it I blow a hole through the casing. Is there anyway to fix this or get around this? I wanted to deprime brass to get a little extra money out of the casings if I choose to sell and this dampens that project
Hand deprimer igman 223
- Thread starter Shaboomquisha
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How does it blow a hole in the case? You talking about the primmer cup?
Picture will help.
I know some of their 6.5 Swede cases had very small primmer holes.
What we did is use hydraulic pressure. Used a shell holder mounted and fill case with water and a punch that fit the neck tight and hit with hammer and it would pop the cup out. After a few we seen it was small hole and made a custom decapper pin.
Where the pin that pushes the primer out through the hole I assume is too small or I read online that it may be crimped? But the pin gets stuck on the casing after the primer is removed. It takes a whole lotta force to punch through and even more to get the brass off the deprimer pin. Hope this makes sense I may or may not try to replicate this with some stubborn primers but may damage my deprimer so I dunno yet
gotcha well just keep an eye out for igman 223 brass they are about 50%-80% too small.
I apologize 50-20% too small not the opposite. I learned to count last week
ColKurtz
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I had never heard of this ammo, so I looked it up. Advertised as boxer primed.
If you want to save it, you could try running a universal decapper. Lyman makes a nice one. You can punch it out with the hefty universal pin and then process as normal.
Lyman Decapper
If you want to save it, you could try running a universal decapper. Lyman makes a nice one. You can punch it out with the hefty universal pin and then process as normal.
Lyman Decapper
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gunwonk
Well-Known Member
Drill out the flash hole first (keywords: "flash hole uniformer"), then decap as normal.
The primer is probably crimped in place, which is a separate issue, and (yes) will make "normal" decapping harder. When that gets tough, I use a Lee hand decapper, or the decapping parts from a Lee hand reloader in one of the .22 centerfire calibers. If you don't have the hand reloader, and don't want to buy one (or can't find it in stock), you can order the separate .22 hand decapping stem&pin from Lee, as a part. Or use a universal decapper, per the post above.
Then, of course, you have to remove the primer crimp.
Yes, it's a major PITA. Ask me how I know.
P.S. -- you wrote:
FWIW, brass usually sells better if the primer is left in, because the primer carries some information about firing history. In particular, if the primer is still obviously crimped in, you can figure the brass is once-fired, which is more valuable. (Except Igman, I guess.)
The primer is probably crimped in place, which is a separate issue, and (yes) will make "normal" decapping harder. When that gets tough, I use a Lee hand decapper, or the decapping parts from a Lee hand reloader in one of the .22 centerfire calibers. If you don't have the hand reloader, and don't want to buy one (or can't find it in stock), you can order the separate .22 hand decapping stem&pin from Lee, as a part. Or use a universal decapper, per the post above.
Then, of course, you have to remove the primer crimp.
Yes, it's a major PITA. Ask me how I know.
P.S. -- you wrote:
Well, there goes THAT idea ...
FWIW, brass usually sells better if the primer is left in, because the primer carries some information about firing history. In particular, if the primer is still obviously crimped in, you can figure the brass is once-fired, which is more valuable. (Except Igman, I guess.)
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Snoopz
Well-Known Member
That brass is a PIA to deal with..same can be said with TAA head stamp 5.56 brass. Ingman brass was readily available and sold for some time ..don't know about now.. Decapping dies I've switched to a Mighty Armory no problems, it will even poke another hole if the primer is off center. Used Lyman, Dillion, and others ..they have bent, broke, but the MA decapper just works.. Done thousands of rojnds Miltary 5.56, 7.62, 30.06, 9mm and 45ACP..Got tired of keeping a inventory of pins around.. Wayne's a great guy and a stand up person..use a lot of his dies..sizers, seaters, crimpers. Taper crimp dies also from CH Tool and Die (now CH4D)..
There was a company that made and sold the Decapping stem / pin Assembly in a tool steel as one piece replacement.
As was mentioned many people prefer the primer left in.. It gives the buyer an idea of the history. Also I shy away from brass that's had the crimp removed and they state 1X..unless its a known name..but still stay away... Primer can tell some things not all, but a good part.
Not related to the topic but personally I shy away from most Hornady brass..especially 6.5 CM, 308, 300WM, as it appears to be soft, flows around the bolt. Most of the 6.5 Hornady in 6.5 1x I've purchased has all the indicators of over pressure. So if its deprimed / cleaned for sale I avoid it. To add other brass in 6.5 does not exhibit the same signs with the same load, firearm... Just my bucks worth ( compensated for inflation )
-Snoopz
There was a company that made and sold the Decapping stem / pin Assembly in a tool steel as one piece replacement.
As was mentioned many people prefer the primer left in.. It gives the buyer an idea of the history. Also I shy away from brass that's had the crimp removed and they state 1X..unless its a known name..but still stay away... Primer can tell some things not all, but a good part.
Not related to the topic but personally I shy away from most Hornady brass..especially 6.5 CM, 308, 300WM, as it appears to be soft, flows around the bolt. Most of the 6.5 Hornady in 6.5 1x I've purchased has all the indicators of over pressure. So if its deprimed / cleaned for sale I avoid it. To add other brass in 6.5 does not exhibit the same signs with the same load, firearm... Just my bucks worth ( compensated for inflation )
-Snoopz
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Thought taking the extra step putting some time in would benefit in the long run. Also give me something to do gun related when I’m not shooting. Bought the deprimer thinking it would add $50 to every 1000 so rounds.Drill out the flash hole first (keywords: "flash hole uniformer"), then decap as normal.
The primer is probably crimped in place, which is a separate issue, and (yes) will make "normal" decapping harder. When that gets tough, I use a Lee hand decapper, or the decapping parts from a Lee hand reloader in one of the .22 centerfire calibers. If you don't have the hand reloader, and don't want to buy one (or can't find it in stock), you can order the separate .22 hand decapping stem&pin from Lee, as a part. Or use a universal decapper, per the post above.
Then, of course, you have to remove the primer crimp.
Yes, it's a major PITA. Ask me how I know.
P.S. -- you wrote:
Well, there goes THAT idea ...
FWIW, brass usually sells better if the primer is left in, because the primer carries some information about firing history. In particular, if the primer is still obviously crimped in, you can figure the brass is once-fired, which is more valuable. (Except Igman, I guess.)
gunwonk
Well-Known Member
Even if that had worked out, you wouldn't have been "done", at least not in a good way.
The primers would be gone, but the crimp would still be there, around the edge of the primer pocket. If you sold them like that, as soon as the next guy tried seating new primers, we'd get another of those threads about "why don't my primers go in?"
Look up "decrimp primer pocket", for the rest of the story.