How accurate is this in reference to front sight post A2 zeroing?

McDirkale

McDirkale

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I have some zeroing issues with a fairly new AR....in other words, it isn't zero'd. So, I will be working on that. I know how far it is off at certain distance from a quick range trip today. I will be going back out with zeroing targets to get it where it needs to be. My question is how accurate is the information below? Thanks.


"If your shot group is not in the Center of the bulls-eye, use the squares on the target sheet to calculate the required "Clicks" necessary to move you next shot group (Squares are 3/8" x 3/8") into the bulls-eye. (Remember that any changes in elevation are made by moving the front sight post.) The squares are numbered around the edges of the target to equal the number of clicks required to move the shot group to the bull's-eye.

Barrel Length Change Per Click

20" 3/8" for Elevation

20" 1/8" for Windage

14.5"/16" 1/2" for Elevation

14.5"/16" 3/16" for Windage"
 
Is this info for one of those close range zeroing target?
Is it an A1 style rear sight?
 
I don't know what target they were talking about, I think it was the 25 meter zeroing. I was curious if the click count for distance changed was correct.

I will be using a 25 meter zeroing target for a 16" barrel. I shot today at my most expensive targets I had at the time with me (8.5 paper plate) and was having to hold over about 1/2" over the top of the plate at approximately 30 yards to get middle, some lower middle holes. So the elevation is off a bit. Trying to get a quick click count so when I go back to the range I hope it's at least close and can be dialed in.
 
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My "paper plate target" from today. Arrow just there to remind me the top of the target. Aiming about 1/2" or less above plate, approx 30 yards, no yardage markers on that range.

20200424_223502.jpg
 
If they're the Army style targets like pictured below, Those targets are for an M16A2 to achieve the 25m/300m zero. The numbers at the bottom are indeed supposed to be rotations or clicks.

BUT. At 25 meters I believe they're a bit over kill. When I taught my soldiers in my unit, I told them to make smaller adjustments treating each square as 1 click. So not to pass the point of zero by over adjusting. So if you're 4 squares away, try rotating your wind age knob 4 clicks towards the center and shoot another 3-5 round group and see where youre at. Baby steps. You want someone to be able to walk up to your target and visibly be able to trace your shot groups from the outside to the center of your paper. Almost as if you lead a breadcrumb trail. If you're trying to save ammo, sure. Up your amount of clicks. But be prepared for your groups to be sporadic. And if you're closer to the outside of the paper. Choose one adjustment to make at a time. Horizontal or vertical. Once you've walked yourself closer to the center of your target, then make your other adjustments. That's what I always taught. Never had a soldier fail qualification. The army says only 60% percent of your shots has to be in the black for a proper zero, but obviously you and I both want more. I shoot for 10/10 rounds within the circle after zeroing.

a185d0592d49ce99b22da26e7ef730cd.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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@McDirkale

I am able to help you BUT you have way to much missing information to give you any kind of support.

Please take a picture of the firearm in question.

Secondly,
what distance are you zero'ing at? and what distance if any, do you want to zero to match? 50-200,, 25-300 100 only?
 
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