I know its a horrible time to get started....

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mhuxtable

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but I'm bored and thinking of getting into long range stuff. I've always wanted to & there's a 500 yard range about an hour from me.

Sooooo...I don't know much anything about long range / precision shooting.

Should I do 308 or 6.5 creedmoor? Any particular rifle model? I seem to be leaning towards a Tikka or Ruger just based on the fact that the out of the box gun seems to be pretty damn good?

Anything else I need to be concerned about? What REALLY matters when starting? I'm talking sight this thing in, go shoot to 100-500 yards starting out while I learn.
 
So...Im just starting in this long range stuff, too.
I started out a couple years ago with an out-of-box Savage 110 in 6.5CM. It shot well enough...roughly 1.25 moa with factory ammo. It was enough to convince me that I was going to pursue long range further.
Enter the Tikka T3X.
Bought one of these, sight unseen, at the recommendation of a few members here and, well, the entire internet. I get home, handle it, and wow! There is a noticeable difference in build quality. The stock is noticably sturdier, fit and finish are second to none, and that bolt?
Butter smooth. Slick like my ex gir....err, never mind.
Now, I havent gotten to shoot it yet (blasphemy, I know) but Im impressed with the rifle so far. I have yet to put a muzzle device to mount my supressor on it, but when I do, I'll break her in and start practicing again.

Im in this thread to read up (again) on what the Island of Misfits like/hate about their rifles (especially the Tikka owners) and watching caliber wars are always fun :)
 
mhuxtable said:
but I'm bored and thinking of getting into long range stuff. I've always wanted to & there's a 500 yard range about an hour from me.

Sooooo...I don't know much anything about long range / precision shooting.

Should I do 308 or 6.5 creedmoor? Any particular rifle model? I seem to be leaning towards a Tikka or Ruger just based on the fact that the out of the box gun seems to be pretty damn good?

Anything else I need to be concerned about? What REALLY matters when starting? I'm talking sight this thing in, go shoot to 100-500 yards starting out while I learn.
Click to expand...
How much do you want to spend on the entire rig?
 
I'll say get a Tikka T3x as a first gun. I chose the CTR. The TAC A1 model is also a good, probably better, choice.
The negative things...expensive proprietary magazines. Fewer chassis options, but support is growing.

I'll say start with .308, graduate to 6.5. The .308 has a longer barrel life, giving you time to practice before forced replacement. The .308 is also more plentiful in feeding options. You'll end up reloading for it which negates these challenges in large part, but it remains a plus to the guy starting out when tomorrow remains a mystery.
 
Savage elite precision is great out of the box.

Honestly if limited to 500 yards get a 233 and work on positional shooting.
 
I have Savages in .223, .243, .300 mag, and 6BR. With Accutrigger and Accustock they all shoot 1/2 MOA or better with the right handloads. Also have a Rem 700 in .308 that does the same.
Can't opine on the Tikka but hard to go wrong with a Savage- my MI shooting buddy builds his own and uses Savage actions exclusively - he is winning state matches out to 1000 yd with custom chamberings.

Regardless of the rifle however if you don't handload you are at the mercy of trial and error to find the magic factory load for a given gun.

And save $$ for a good scope, most importantly learn to read the wind. Beyond 300 yards it's all wind, any popular caliber can get to 500 yards incl .223 with 69 grain bullets and up. IMHO out to 600 yards a .243 or .308 doesn't give anything up to others.

Good luck and have fun !!!
 
Well I have plenty of .223. Should I just start there and get a bolt gun? I’m assuming 308 is impossible to find right now (and overpriced when you do)
 
Make sure you get an 8 twist or faster if you go .223. 69s are OK in a 9 but 7-8 much better for heavy bullets.
another Savage ‘Pro’ is easy bbl swaps.
 
well if I go with a 223/556 bolt action just based on the fact that I have the ammo for it & don't want to buy overpriced ammo right now, what kind of optic should I look for? I have a Vortex Razor 1-6 but I imagine I want something longer that I can move to another platform when/if the time comes?
 
mhuxtable said:
well if I go with a 223/556 bolt action just based on the fact that I have the ammo for it & don't want to buy overpriced ammo right now, what kind of optic should I look for? I have a Vortex Razor 1-6 but I imagine I want something longer that I can move to another platform when/if the time comes?
Click to expand...
Mid range stuff has improved greatly in the past decade. Most glass comes from about four places. China (low end), Phillipeans (low, low medium), Japan (low medium to very very good), and Europe ( medium to best available).
Setting aside $800 to $2k for the glass will get you something that won't need replacing for a long time to come. Vortex, Athlon, Sig Tango6, NIghtforce, Steiner and Trijicon will all have something that hurts a little to buy but pays off huge at the range.
 
Timfoilhat said:
Mid range stuff has improved greatly in the past decade. Most glass comes from about four places. China (low end), Phillipeans (low, low medium), Japan (low medium to very very good), and Europe ( medium to best available).
Setting aside $800 to $2k for the glass will get you something that won't need replacing for a long time to come. Vortex, Athlon, Sig Tango6, NIghtforce, Steiner and Trijicon will all have something that hurts a little to buy but pays off huge at the range.
Click to expand...

but what specifically should I look for (as far as range?). I don't know anything about long range scopes. I do like Vortex in general.
 
I have 2 24x Vortex, several 20x VX3s, and a Nightforce 32x. An $800 Vortex 24x will serve you well, one of mine is even a refurb that Cabelas had several years ago. Maybe look for something like that.
cheap glass will frustrate you, side focusing is a huge plus for longer ranges where parallax matters.
watch for used scopes that are cared for, great way to start.
 
mhuxtable said:
but what specifically should I look for (as far as range?). I don't know anything about long range scopes. I do like Vortex in general.
Click to expand...
Read reviews on Sniper's Hide forum is the best advice I can offer. Other than that, you want a scope that performs a tracking test (box test) well. And you don't want to run out of elevation in the scope. Good (forgiving) eye relief is helpful until you learn to mount the rifle consistently every time. You can save a bit of cash if you don't buy a fancy reticle. Basic subtensions are enough. KNow the difference between first and second focal plance scopes, and decide on mil dot or MOA measurements...then make darn sure you have adjustment knobs that match the glass. There are scopes out there with MOA adjustment for MIL DOT glass. I haven't seen one, but I've read about that nightmare.
 
And of course this forum 🤔

SOLD - Vortex Viper PST Gen 1

Going to upgrade a couple of scopes. So going to sell a couple. I have 4 of the 6 to 24 x 50 scopes. All are mil rad. All are FFP. One is the straight mil dot reticle. The other 3 are the xmas tree reticle. They all have the vortex throw lever installed. No trades $550 each will ship on...
carolinafirearmsforum.com carolinafirearmsforum.com
 
Another thing to do is learn from other's mistakes. I mounted my scope too high because I was in a rush and didn't research enough. Since I mounted too high I had to get a stock pack to get my cheek up in line with the scope.
This is my CTR. All told there's about $2300 in this rifle, which isn't cheap or expensive for what it is. It shoots my .308 handloads into less than an inch at 100 consistently, and I'm NOT a skilled/competitive shooter. tikka.JPG
 
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Timfoilhat said:
Read reviews on Sniper's Hide forum is the best advice I can offer. Other than that, you want a scope that performs a tracking test (box test) well. And you don't want to run out of elevation in the scope. Good (forgiving) eye relief is helpful until you learn to mount the rifle consistently every time. You can save a bit of cash if you don't buy a fancy reticle. Basic subtensions are enough. KNow the difference between first and second focal plance scopes, and decide on mil dot or MOA measurements...then make darn sure you have adjustment knobs that match the glass. There are scopes out there with MOA adjustment for MIL DOT glass. I haven't seen one, but I've read about that nightmare.
Click to expand...
^^^ Good Advice. SH is the go to for anyone wanting to learn what they need.....

It used to be standard less than 10 years ago with MOA Adjustment with MIL reticle. Hell, even our MIL Snipers used to have to deal with that. I have 2 Bushnell Elite Tactical 6x24 with MIL Reticle and 1/4MOA dials and in 2nd Focal Plane! But...... there is a way to use that to your advantage in particular ways if you have known ranges.... but I digress.

My advice on starting would be:
1. Ruger Precision rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor.
2. Athlon Cronus BTR APRS (Gen 1 is fine and should be good price.. check @CameraLand as Doug was marking down to get ready for GEN 2)
3. Harris-S Bipod in 6-9...

Reasoning:
1. Ruger's shoot well out of the box.
2. Large amount of aftermarket Parts for the Ruger to allow you grow as your skills grow
3. 6.5 Creedmoor is easier to load and has many options out there... you can load mild to not burn your barrel and still reach 1K
4. Athlon BTR is great, IOR mfg and has a following in PRS

Just my $.02
 
Jmoser said:
I have 2 24x Vortex, several 20x VX3s, and a Nightforce 32x. An $800 Vortex 24x will serve you well, one of mine is even a refurb that Cabelas had several years ago. Maybe look for something like that.
cheap glass will frustrate you, side focusing is a huge plus for longer ranges where parallax matters.
watch for used scopes that are cared for, great way to start.
Click to expand...

what is side focusing?

Timfoilhat said:
Read reviews on Sniper's Hide forum is the best advice I can offer. Other than that, you want a scope that performs a tracking test (box test) well. And you don't want to run out of elevation in the scope. Good (forgiving) eye relief is helpful until you learn to mount the rifle consistently every time. You can save a bit of cash if you don't buy a fancy reticle. Basic subtensions are enough. KNow the difference between first and second focal plance scopes, and decide on mil dot or MOA measurements...then make darn sure you have adjustment knobs that match the glass. There are scopes out there with MOA adjustment for MIL DOT glass. I haven't seen one, but I've read about that nightmare.
Click to expand...

whats a tracking / box test?
 
mhuxtable said:
what is side focusing?



whats a tracking / box test?
Click to expand...
How I do it:
Mount and zero your scope.
Hold the SAME point of aim for all shots.
Shoot one at bull.
Dial 5 mil left, 5 mil up. Fire.
Dial 10 mil right. Fire.
Dial 10 mil down. Fire.
Dial 10 mil left fire.
Dial 5 mil up, 5 mil right. Fire.
Repeat in reverse.
You should end up with 3 shots in bull and two each at the corners of a 36"x36" box.
Youve verified repeatability of your click values for both up and down, laft and right.
 
buy a precision 22lr and build it up.

At good 22lr will take you to 350yds no issue. Each 50yds with a 22lr is like learning with a centerfire on ever 150yds. You will gain more experience and have a ton of fun, while saving $$$ if you start with a super cool 22lr.

A Few Examples:
Rifle:
cz-usa.com

CZ 457 ProVarmint Suppressor-Ready - CZ-USA

With a tactically-inspired stock and a short 16.5" barrel threaded 1/2x28, the ProVarmint makes for one accurate suppressor host.
cz-usa.com cz-usa.com

Optic:
vortexoptics.com

Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP

Please Select Reticle | 34mm Tube
vortexoptics.com vortexoptics.com

Optic Base:
www.swfa.com

EGW HD Picatinny Rail 1 Piece Scope Mount

CZ 452CZ 453CZ 455CZ 511Matte20 MOA11mm Dovetail
www.swfa.com www.swfa.com
 
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Paul the owner of Frontline Defense has long range classes, no experience necessary, he even rents the rifle with the ammo, you will be ringing the steel out to 1,000yds. I'm a member at his range and took the class, it is now a two day class and worth the money for the knowledge you walk away with. I agree with JBoyette, start off and see if you enjoy it before going all in on a .308 or other setup. Next class is March 2021.
frontlinedefenseusa.com

Rifle Range | Frontline Defense | North Carolina

Frontline Defense Firearms Training Center and Range. North Carolina’s fastest growing outdoor shooting range.
frontlinedefenseusa.com frontlinedefenseusa.com
 
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Learned on my Tikka T3x Tac a1 in 65cm. It does the job just fine. Get a scope in mil bc no one in prs speaks moa lol. Harris bipod and go take some classes. I graduated to a full custom build and love it too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’ve got a 700 in 308 that’s been tweeked. (Nefarious laugh)

sub 1/2” w good ammo at the 100 yard mark.

today in the fog/drizzle and light wind was hitting 6” steel at 700.

6.5 is something that I don’t own so I can’t say anything but 308 has been around a long time for a reason.
 
You guys have given me lots to think about and research! Right now the biggest thing is available ammo (I’m pretty scrappy when it comes to finding a gun I want at a price I want). lots of research Incoming.

keep the wisdom and experience coming though
 
I used Paul's 700 for the class at Frontline Defense, he got that rifle when he left the military.
 
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Timfoilhat said:
I'll say get a Tikka T3x as a first gun. I chose the CTR. The TAC A1 model is also a good, probably better, choice.
The negative things...expensive proprietary magazines. Fewer chassis options, but support is growing.

I'll say start with .308, graduate to 6.5. The .308 has a longer barrel life, giving you time to practice before forced replacement. The .308 is also more plentiful in feeding options. You'll end up reloading for it which negates these challenges in large part, but it remains a plus to the guy starting out when tomorrow remains a mystery.
Click to expand...
tikka mags are not bad if you shop around. compared to the aics.

I went with a ctr 6.5 24"

I would say 30 06 308 or 6.5cm if you see yourself actually doing anything.

athlon scopes are g2g but check out arken. make sure you get a mil reticle though. I got an moa on my vortex.
 
Timfoilhat said:
Another thing to do is learn from other's mistakes. I mounted my scope too high because I was in a rush and didn't research enough. Since I mounted too high I had to get a stock pack to get my cheek up in line with the scope.
This is my CTR. All told there's about $2300 in this rifle, which isn't cheap or expensive for what it is. It shoots my .308 handloads into less than an inch at 100 consistently, and I'm NOT a skilled/competitive shooter. View attachment 283757
Click to expand...
is that the wider forend from tikka?
 
Also if you’re limited to 500yds I would jump on the 22 trainer idea. 22LR at 300yds has similar ballistics to 308 at 800yds in terms of dialing dope and wind. It is going to be way more fun and way more cost effective.

Savage FV-SR in a Boyd’s Pro Varmint stock with a Vortex 4-16x and you are rocking and rolling for less than $1000 and sending shots down range at less than 10 cents per round.
 
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