Is it worth the time to reload 9MM?
- Thread starter localguy
- Start date
- Replies 71
- Views 1,397
It is all I own
My opinion is, I know everybody has one but you asked.
Heck yeah it’s worth it. Also worth stocking up on components.
Heck yeah it’s worth it. Also worth stocking up on components.
Last edited:
Right now you can save $40-$50 per thousand if you reuse your brass. Of course market forces can change that in a instant these days.
I have a pretty nice setup but when the cheap Russian 9mm was at $150 per thousand I didn’t bother. Right now for me it is a tossup as it takes me around 2 hours to make 1000.
Question comes down to how much you shoot and how much you want to invest in reloading equipment. Take those numbers and see if it makes sense to you.
I have a pretty nice setup but when the cheap Russian 9mm was at $150 per thousand I didn’t bother. Right now for me it is a tossup as it takes me around 2 hours to make 1000.
Question comes down to how much you shoot and how much you want to invest in reloading equipment. Take those numbers and see if it makes sense to you.
Impossible to answer this without placing a value on what an hour of your time is worth. If I’m reloading I’m generally focusing on rounds that cost more. .357, 44, 45 colt etc.
When it comes to reloading, the relaxation pays me for my time.
When primers were $40 for 1K, and wheel weights were free I could load 9mm for about 7 cents a round. My press and other loading kit has been paid for from decades of loading.
At the moment maybe not as much BUT always have the ability to load anything you shoot in my opinion. When 9mm is $12 per 50 I buy it and keep the brass. When it hit $25 a box I loaded my own until it dropped again.
If you have to pay 10+ cent for a primer it is probably not worth it at the moment. When ammo went sky high and was even hard to find it was great having the ability to hand load my own. I currently hand load 9mm but it is all 147gr subs, defensive ammo, and trying to recreate factory loads with low bullet weight and high velocity.
The best time to start reloading is yesterday. If you shoot 50 rnds/month it's probably not worth your time or money. For me reloading has allowed me to shoot much more often and put more rounds down range . The best thing about reloading is to always have the ability to roll your own during ammo shortages as long as you have the foresight to stockpile supplies. Powder, lead and primers all have long shelf life if stored properly. I stacked high and deep back in 2019 and did not have to alter my frequency/volume of shooting during the ammo drought/price gouging of recent years.
If the only consideration is cost, then maybe not. But, if you load your own, you can custom load ammo that shoots more reliably and accurately than the cheap factory ammo. I load lower recoil ammo for my wife. The biggest compliment I ever got was when she told me that my loads were better than the factory stuff she had shot.
The best cost savings are with other calibers, like 380, 32acp, 44mag, etc.
The best cost savings are with other calibers, like 380, 32acp, 44mag, etc.
9mm, yes when it’s stupid high or unobtanium.
If you want practice bunny fart rounds, custom velocities, weights, 44 ammo, or typically much more accurate rifle rounds, yes.
If you want practice bunny fart rounds, custom velocities, weights, 44 ammo, or typically much more accurate rifle rounds, yes.
Is there a list of needed equipment to reload (9mm)? Thanks for all the responses!
Last edited:
Thanks!
What reloading equipment do you use? What would you recommend for a newbie?
I have a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker. I got it when 9mm was unobtainable. I think it’s a good quality machine that isn’t overly complicated and find reloading to be a zen type activity. You go through various stages by hand, removing primers, reshaping the brass, pressing primers, measure and weigh powder, press the bullet, etc. Being a single stage, it isn’t mass production, but you do focus on each stage. Like I said, it’s a zen activity.
Are you after the least expensive, basic reliable setup kit? Or something higher end?
Great single stage options are the RCBS Rock Chucker, the Redding single stage, or a Lee setup.
Great single stage options are the RCBS Rock Chucker, the Redding single stage, or a Lee setup.
Last edited:
I recommend most beginners start with a Lee Classic Turret press. Leave the auto-index rod out and operate it as a single stage until you get all the different steps mastered. It is marginally more expensive than a low end single-stage press.
My set up has been accumulated over 4 decades. Currently I have:
Lee Rockchucker single stage press
Midway Electronic scale
Lee hand priming tool
RCBS Powder trickler (rifle cartridges)
RCBS powder thrower
Dies + shell holders
Hornady case tumbler to clean the cases
Primer pocket tool to true and clean
Primer pocket decrimping tool for military case
Case trimmer tool
Case deburring tool
Cartridge case boards to hold charged cases
To reload 9mm you don't need to trim or deburr cases, the powder trickler, or even the primer pocket tools but it is still a sizable start up investment.
If all you shoot or intend to shoot is 9mm I recommend putting the investment into loaded ammo.
If you will reload other more expensive ammo, get into reloading!
I'm only loading 9mm now because I got powder and plated 9mm bullets essentially for free awhile ago. I do load all my other handgun rounds, .223, .30 carbine, and 7.5x55
Budget friendly for now
Being retired, I have nothing but time and I enjoy reloading so there is no real “time loss”. My wife and I try and shoot once a week at about 125 rounds each. Buying factory can get expensive at 5 boxes a week and on a fixed income. Reloading equipment has long been paid for. I figure .06 for spp (yes I just picked up 10,000 of them locally so no hasmat) .08 a bullet and .02 powder. I reuse brass. So it comes out to .16 a round or 8.00 a box. I also pick up brass that I don’t reload or need and sell it to make my cost even less. I figure I’m realistically doing a box for just under 7.00. Its worth it for me but if you have limited time it may not work for you.
Cost wise, so long as you're happy shooting 115 grain round nose, it's not worth it. I have better things to do and I don't love reloading like some folks do, so I don't reload the common inexpensive stuff or what I don't shoot much.
You should, however, cultivate the skill of reloading and stack components for the future.
You should, however, cultivate the skill of reloading and stack components for the future.
Last edited:
you can save money - even at today’s prices. People who say reloading 9mm is not worth love to make cost comparisons for the very cheapest bulk ammo that was on sale a particular. Try looking at the average price over the past 4 years. Some folks do not shoot much, and are willing to wait for the stars to align so they can buy that ammo cheap. Reloading allows you to shoot whenever you want, buy components in bulk, and stabilize cost over a period of time.
In the last 4 years, I have bought primers every year as few as a sleeve, and as many a case of 5000. I have not paid over .07 per primer (yet) but I buy whatever brand primer I can find.
I buy powder coated, plated and even recycled projectiles - and the most i paid for some was .08. I do not buy 115 grain - i buy 124, 135, or 147 grain projectiles.
I buy powder in 4lb jugs - this is maybe .02 per round- titegroup goes a long way
I use range brass at zero cost
My highest cost to reload 100 rounds is $17.00 my average is in the $15-16 range for 100 rounds. This is based on current component cost. Honestly guys, nobody cares what you bought primers for back in the good ole days. I can reload 100 rounds for a match or several hundred rounds at a time. I always have components on hand. My reloaded ammo is better than the cheap bulk 115 grain. My cost to load ammo has been between $15-17 per hundred when store bought has been anywhere between $28-50 over the last 4 years for 100 rounds
I looked at the equipment as a 1 time expense because I knew I would never get rid of it. My daughter and I shoot a lot - I have bought ammo when I did not have time to reload, but in the last 4 years I have easily loaded 16-18K rounds of 9mm.
Buy components in bulk, do not fixate on one brand of anything when I first got started I obsessed on brands because I thought it made a huge difference- it doesn’t with 9mm.
Back to the equipment, most everyone will tell you to start with a single stage press. I did back in the early 90s and hated the dreadfully tedious process so much I sold it a few years later. Fast forward a bunch of years and 6 years ago I bought a Dillon. If you are able to watch YouTube and pay attention to details you can set this up. I would suggest a Dillon 550 - “turret” style press with all of your dies loaded on a rotating tool head. A single stage press requires you to batch the process changing dies in between each step - in my option this allows much more room for human error than a turret or progressive press where the dies are set and never moved. On a Turret style -The tool head is rotated manually with your hand so nothing gets out of control. Yes it is a little more upfront, but if you still work a day job and value your time …it’s the best way in my opinion. This is especially true if you want to load more than a box or 2 at a time. With prepped brass a can easily load several hundred rounds per hour
A mentor can be helpful, I had someone I could talk to at the range. I am sure you can find one as well if that helps. If you cannot find one , I would volunteer to help with loading 9mm
In the last 4 years, I have bought primers every year as few as a sleeve, and as many a case of 5000. I have not paid over .07 per primer (yet) but I buy whatever brand primer I can find.
I buy powder coated, plated and even recycled projectiles - and the most i paid for some was .08. I do not buy 115 grain - i buy 124, 135, or 147 grain projectiles.
I buy powder in 4lb jugs - this is maybe .02 per round- titegroup goes a long way
I use range brass at zero cost
My highest cost to reload 100 rounds is $17.00 my average is in the $15-16 range for 100 rounds. This is based on current component cost. Honestly guys, nobody cares what you bought primers for back in the good ole days. I can reload 100 rounds for a match or several hundred rounds at a time. I always have components on hand. My reloaded ammo is better than the cheap bulk 115 grain. My cost to load ammo has been between $15-17 per hundred when store bought has been anywhere between $28-50 over the last 4 years for 100 rounds
I looked at the equipment as a 1 time expense because I knew I would never get rid of it. My daughter and I shoot a lot - I have bought ammo when I did not have time to reload, but in the last 4 years I have easily loaded 16-18K rounds of 9mm.
Buy components in bulk, do not fixate on one brand of anything when I first got started I obsessed on brands because I thought it made a huge difference- it doesn’t with 9mm.
Back to the equipment, most everyone will tell you to start with a single stage press. I did back in the early 90s and hated the dreadfully tedious process so much I sold it a few years later. Fast forward a bunch of years and 6 years ago I bought a Dillon. If you are able to watch YouTube and pay attention to details you can set this up. I would suggest a Dillon 550 - “turret” style press with all of your dies loaded on a rotating tool head. A single stage press requires you to batch the process changing dies in between each step - in my option this allows much more room for human error than a turret or progressive press where the dies are set and never moved. On a Turret style -The tool head is rotated manually with your hand so nothing gets out of control. Yes it is a little more upfront, but if you still work a day job and value your time …it’s the best way in my opinion. This is especially true if you want to load more than a box or 2 at a time. With prepped brass a can easily load several hundred rounds per hour
A mentor can be helpful, I had someone I could talk to at the range. I am sure you can find one as well if that helps. If you cannot find one , I would volunteer to help with loading 9mm
Last edited:
If you shoot just a little, no. If you shoot a lot, perhaps. It will take a lot of shooting to make it worthwhile if you do not already reload and have the equipment. Evidently you do not. With the recent volatility of the ammo situation, price should not be your only consideration if you plan on shooting a lot. Getting into loading and stockpiling components while they are available can keep you shooting through all the ups and downs.
If you do want to get into loading, do not he tempted to buy the cheapest equipment. It is false economy. Assuming you are going to be shooting a lot, get a progressive. If you can not figure out how to set up and use it, you should probably not be trying to load with any equipment. I loaded for decades with my Rock Chucker and made lots of great ammo. I got a progressive about 20 years and can make lots of great ammo much faster. Faster is good if you want lots of great ammo without spending lots of time loading.
Knowing what I know now after almost 60 years of loading, I would get a Dillon 550 progressive with Dillon dies, a balance beam powder scale, and several reloading manuals. That is a good basic setup that will last a lifetime. There are a few other useful trinkets you will want to add as you get a into the process, but none of them are absolutely essential.
Last edited:
I agree with Charlie. If you dont shoot much, then its probably not all that big a cost savings over the time you will spend doing it.
HOWEVER...there is a lot of benefit in being market neutral to availability in the market. If you you stock up on components, you can kinda chuckle through times of panic when the shelves empty out.
There is also the fun of actually doing it. It can be quite therapeutic to sit there and reload. I miss doing it at times, but my set up was sub-optimal really. If you get into it, dont skimp. Get quality gear, use reloading manuals, and take. your. time.
HOWEVER...there is a lot of benefit in being market neutral to availability in the market. If you you stock up on components, you can kinda chuckle through times of panic when the shelves empty out.
There is also the fun of actually doing it. It can be quite therapeutic to sit there and reload. I miss doing it at times, but my set up was sub-optimal really. If you get into it, dont skimp. Get quality gear, use reloading manuals, and take. your. time.
This. Right. Here. All. Day.
Something therapeutic about the inane pulling and pushing of the lever, with the droning sound of a tumbler in the background, and some Spyro Gyra or Weather Report blasting on the shop system!!
This. 2hr to load 1k on my 650, but $50 savings isn’t worth it with 2 little ones at home.
I still reload because I’m using old components for a net cost of about $0.11/rd 124gr or 147gr subs. However, those will run out eventually so I’m keeping a close eye on ammo prices; As Blazer 124gr creeps below $250 to my door, that makes reloading not worth it to me.
Last edited:
Snoopz
Well-Known Member
A lot of great comments.
Simple .questions
what's your time worth?
How much shooting are you doing?
How much shooting do you plan on doing down the road, matches, etc.?
Given the current prices of loaded vs. reloading components, this will determine if it is worth it
Not trying to be short...
There so many given options.
Figure in purchasing of equipment. The initial investments.
Figure the cost of a box of ammo divide by number of rounds. Now take powder per # (7,000 grains) the charge per round, primer cost each, bullet cost. Take that number then compare. Now when you first start there is no savings from the investment stand point, as your savings goes into the equipment expense. Kinda look at it this way, you're starting a new business, you have nothing so you buy everything. What you sell goes back into the business as you see no profit. But the more you sell / reload the quicker you see a profit or return. It is cheaper if you reload the wildcats, odd ball, big boys.. the big plus is you tailor the load to a particular firearm..not so much in 9mm, but look at it this way, reload lead or some plated bullets to keep in practice, some even use them for the matches..
I've still got powder from the $6.95 # days, mil pull down from the $4 # , primers $9.50-$11.00 per 5k (yes 5,000) bullets Sierra 168 HPBT a sleeve ( 5 boxes ) for the price of one today
Not trying to discourage anyone from reloading, we need all the reloaders we can get, people interested in it.
Myself have been reloading for over 50 years.
Started out with the basics:
RCBS Rock Chucker, Ohaus Duo-measure, Lyman D5 scale, RCBS dies, shell holders, Lube pad, Chamfer tool, ole Lyman case trimmer, Sierra / Hornady / Lyman manuals.
As time went on it grew another press, more dies, better powder measure, etc.
Now its grown...
Rock Chuckers, Redding BB II, Projectors, Pro7's, LNL-AP's, Dillons (550 / 650),Stars, CH Champions, MEC's, P&W, even ole Lyman "nut crackers". Powder measures oh my everything from Lil-Dandy out to a Harrell. Scales are nothing fancy just some "tuned " Scott Parker Lyman M5's, with the Ohaus 10-10 / RCBS 10-10
Not gonna do the laundry list ..
Then you have casting, swaging...a whole ball game
Start out with what you need...then add on.
Reloading is a hobby, my version of chillaxing, so my time is irrelevant. Is it all, paid for ..probably
It all depends on what you reload..
Sorry for the rambling...
-Snoopz
Simple .questions
what's your time worth?
How much shooting are you doing?
How much shooting do you plan on doing down the road, matches, etc.?
Given the current prices of loaded vs. reloading components, this will determine if it is worth it
Not trying to be short...
There so many given options.
Figure in purchasing of equipment. The initial investments.
Figure the cost of a box of ammo divide by number of rounds. Now take powder per # (7,000 grains) the charge per round, primer cost each, bullet cost. Take that number then compare. Now when you first start there is no savings from the investment stand point, as your savings goes into the equipment expense. Kinda look at it this way, you're starting a new business, you have nothing so you buy everything. What you sell goes back into the business as you see no profit. But the more you sell / reload the quicker you see a profit or return. It is cheaper if you reload the wildcats, odd ball, big boys.. the big plus is you tailor the load to a particular firearm..not so much in 9mm, but look at it this way, reload lead or some plated bullets to keep in practice, some even use them for the matches..
I've still got powder from the $6.95 # days, mil pull down from the $4 # , primers $9.50-$11.00 per 5k (yes 5,000) bullets Sierra 168 HPBT a sleeve ( 5 boxes ) for the price of one today
Not trying to discourage anyone from reloading, we need all the reloaders we can get, people interested in it.
Myself have been reloading for over 50 years.
Started out with the basics:
RCBS Rock Chucker, Ohaus Duo-measure, Lyman D5 scale, RCBS dies, shell holders, Lube pad, Chamfer tool, ole Lyman case trimmer, Sierra / Hornady / Lyman manuals.
As time went on it grew another press, more dies, better powder measure, etc.
Now its grown...
Rock Chuckers, Redding BB II, Projectors, Pro7's, LNL-AP's, Dillons (550 / 650),Stars, CH Champions, MEC's, P&W, even ole Lyman "nut crackers". Powder measures oh my everything from Lil-Dandy out to a Harrell. Scales are nothing fancy just some "tuned " Scott Parker Lyman M5's, with the Ohaus 10-10 / RCBS 10-10
Not gonna do the laundry list ..
Then you have casting, swaging...a whole ball game
Start out with what you need...then add on.
Reloading is a hobby, my version of chillaxing, so my time is irrelevant. Is it all, paid for ..probably
It all depends on what you reload..
Sorry for the rambling...
-Snoopz
Last edited:
Snoopz
Well-Known Member
https://ballisticxlr.files.wordpress.com/2019/05/ballistics_v10.5.xlsx
Here is a spreadsheet that has a bunch of "tabs" plus a reloading cost calculator that includes equipment breakdown. It is a direct download, it's safe, a excel spreadsheet, you will need a newer version of excel that supports xlsx spreadsheet style not the older xls . Not really new but say newer than 70''s, 80's
-Snoopz
Here is a spreadsheet that has a bunch of "tabs" plus a reloading cost calculator that includes equipment breakdown. It is a direct download, it's safe, a excel spreadsheet, you will need a newer version of excel that supports xlsx spreadsheet style not the older xls . Not really new but say newer than 70''s, 80's
-Snoopz
Last edited:
Bit of a wash if your are loading 115 round nose plinkers. If you load 147s you'll save over buying factory 147s. Load any caliber other than 9mm and you'll save alot. The difference between loading 9, 40, 45, 38, 357 etc is a few cents. Factory ammo is enormously expensive by comparison for anything not 9.
Its also fun to load flat point 9s - they cut prettier holes in paper, and you can't buy those loaded at the local store.
Lead hard lubed 9 + a dirty powder like unique and you can smoke up the place...
Its also fun to load flat point 9s - they cut prettier holes in paper, and you can't buy those loaded at the local store.
Lead hard lubed 9 + a dirty powder like unique and you can smoke up the place...
I started with a Dillon 550, but I knew I was going to be shooting a lot, and had a mentor to help get me started with the 550.
HOWEVER, for most people just getting started, I don't recommend anyone start with a progressive. The 550 is a bit different, as it does not auto-index the shellplate, so it is easy to operate it as a single-stage press. However, most of the reloaders I know have more than just one press, in fact I have 4 on my bench. I have the 550 on one end, a Lee Classic Turret on the other end, and cheap Lee C press, and a Lee APP. They each have their own dedicated jobs. My point is, if you start with a single stage, or a turret press, you will still have a use for them if/when you step up to a progressive press, so don't worry about "outgrowing" a press. I could have started with the turret press and then bought the 550 and still be in the same situation I am now.
In my case, I only use the progressive for my semi-auto handgun rounds that I shoot a lot, such as 9mm, 45acp, etc. I load almost all of my rifle and revolver rounds on the Lee turret press, operated in single-stage mode. I use the cheap C press to pull bullets with a collet style puller, and I use the APP press for decapping large batches of brass (back when I was selling lots of brass online).
For my needs, if I only had room for one press, it would be the turret press. I wouldn't be able to crank out ammo as quickly as the 550, but with the auto-index enabled, I can still do 250 rounds per hour.
As others have mentioned, the real economy starts when you begin loading more than one caliber. Once you have the press, calipers, tumbler, scale, etc., it is pretty much just adding another turret or toolhead, and a set of dies. I'm up to over 20 different calibers now, some of which are uncommon calibers that can be expensive. The most savings I have is with 429DE, which factory ammo costs over $2.00 per round, but I can reload for about $0.40 per round.
HOWEVER, for most people just getting started, I don't recommend anyone start with a progressive. The 550 is a bit different, as it does not auto-index the shellplate, so it is easy to operate it as a single-stage press. However, most of the reloaders I know have more than just one press, in fact I have 4 on my bench. I have the 550 on one end, a Lee Classic Turret on the other end, and cheap Lee C press, and a Lee APP. They each have their own dedicated jobs. My point is, if you start with a single stage, or a turret press, you will still have a use for them if/when you step up to a progressive press, so don't worry about "outgrowing" a press. I could have started with the turret press and then bought the 550 and still be in the same situation I am now.
In my case, I only use the progressive for my semi-auto handgun rounds that I shoot a lot, such as 9mm, 45acp, etc. I load almost all of my rifle and revolver rounds on the Lee turret press, operated in single-stage mode. I use the cheap C press to pull bullets with a collet style puller, and I use the APP press for decapping large batches of brass (back when I was selling lots of brass online).
For my needs, if I only had room for one press, it would be the turret press. I wouldn't be able to crank out ammo as quickly as the 550, but with the auto-index enabled, I can still do 250 rounds per hour.
As others have mentioned, the real economy starts when you begin loading more than one caliber. Once you have the press, calipers, tumbler, scale, etc., it is pretty much just adding another turret or toolhead, and a set of dies. I'm up to over 20 different calibers now, some of which are uncommon calibers that can be expensive. The most savings I have is with 429DE, which factory ammo costs over $2.00 per round, but I can reload for about $0.40 per round.
Agreed. I always recommend new reloaders:
- to start with a single stage. This way you learn every step in detail
-If possible find a friend who reloads to show you the ropes
No, It's not worth it if money is the only reason for you. I have all the tooling and supplies stacked for years, and I'm still looking at $250/k cases of 9mm as a 'maybe i should...' Doing it right is a timesink. And time is getting scarce.
Reloading is the most expensive way to save money. As you can see from a number of the posters before me, cost is not the primary consideration
I roll my own 9mm for a number of reasons:
-I can custom tailor my loads specifically for accuracy, recoil characteristics, or feeding/cycling
-I find it relaxing and therapeutic
-joining the ranks of the reloaders i learned so much more about shooting and ballistics that I did not know before
-subsonic 147gr loads get really expensive when you shoot decent volume
-gets me off the couch and is a productive pastime
-gave me the oppty to meet a bunch of other cranky, curmudgeonly folks
To me, loading 9mm is absolutely worth it, but that decision varies person to person
I roll my own 9mm for a number of reasons:
-I can custom tailor my loads specifically for accuracy, recoil characteristics, or feeding/cycling
-I find it relaxing and therapeutic
-joining the ranks of the reloaders i learned so much more about shooting and ballistics that I did not know before
-subsonic 147gr loads get really expensive when you shoot decent volume
-gets me off the couch and is a productive pastime
-gave me the oppty to meet a bunch of other cranky, curmudgeonly folks
To me, loading 9mm is absolutely worth it, but that decision varies person to person
Last edited:
Just to pile on, it depends on your goal and the factory ammunition you intend to substitute.
Plinking ammo? Not worth it unless you enjoy reloading as a hobby into itself.
Match ammo, like Atlanta Arms, Nosler, or Wilson Combat loads? You can save a ton of money. Cheapest factory match 9mm ammo is still well over $0.50/round in bulk.
With primers at $0.09, Starline cases at $0.16, Zero bullets at $0.12, and maybe $0.01 or 0.02 of powder per load, you save $5 bucks a box ($100 per case) to make brand new match 9mm. Reload your brass and you’re doubling the savings. A decent progressive setup pays for itself in a couple seasons of bullseye, silhouette, PPC, USPSA or whatever.
I load .45 match ammo for bullseye with mixed, dry-tumbled range brass. It hangs with the Wilson Combat match ammo at 50 yards (sub 3”). It saves me $0.45 per shot. Running at a cautious pace, refilling primer tubes, checking the occasional powder drop, I load 250 rounds per hour on a Dillon 550. That’s over $110 savings per hour of work.
Plinking ammo? Not worth it unless you enjoy reloading as a hobby into itself.
Match ammo, like Atlanta Arms, Nosler, or Wilson Combat loads? You can save a ton of money. Cheapest factory match 9mm ammo is still well over $0.50/round in bulk.
With primers at $0.09, Starline cases at $0.16, Zero bullets at $0.12, and maybe $0.01 or 0.02 of powder per load, you save $5 bucks a box ($100 per case) to make brand new match 9mm. Reload your brass and you’re doubling the savings. A decent progressive setup pays for itself in a couple seasons of bullseye, silhouette, PPC, USPSA or whatever.
I load .45 match ammo for bullseye with mixed, dry-tumbled range brass. It hangs with the Wilson Combat match ammo at 50 yards (sub 3”). It saves me $0.45 per shot. Running at a cautious pace, refilling primer tubes, checking the occasional powder drop, I load 250 rounds per hour on a Dillon 550. That’s over $110 savings per hour of work.
Mattyb
Internet Tough Guy
I think your question has been answered, but I’ll add to it because I’m waiting on a phone call.
-I shoot .38/.357, .40 S&W (yeah, I know), and .45 Colt. When I look at a gun for a particular use, the cost of ammo isn’t nearly the concern that it would be otherwise. The availability is also not so much of a concern.
-Reloading can be a gateway drug. Reloading lead to casting(and scrounging for scrap lead), which lead to making bullet lube, which lead to making gas checks, which lead to powder coating, and buying chronographs. It did not save me money; quite the opposite.
-I shoot .38/.357, .40 S&W (yeah, I know), and .45 Colt. When I look at a gun for a particular use, the cost of ammo isn’t nearly the concern that it would be otherwise. The availability is also not so much of a concern.
-Reloading can be a gateway drug. Reloading lead to casting(and scrounging for scrap lead), which lead to making bullet lube, which lead to making gas checks, which lead to powder coating, and buying chronographs. It did not save me money; quite the opposite.
Not to derail... but derail anyway... I started on a progressive and only added a single stage years later to stop buying $45 shell plates for low use rounds.
If you use only one stage in a progressive it is a single stage...
If you use only one stage in a progressive it is a single stage...