Long over do discussion

Majicmike

Majicmike

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Conventional or Sythetic
Is thier really a Mech difference. When sun first hit the market people said one go with sun you can't go back. Now I read it doesn't matter. Is sun really worth the money?
 
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In for the glock vs 1911 argument of the automotive world
 
Majicmike said:
Hey Wrench,, your one of the main ones I was hoping to respond. I honestly listen and respect your opinions on auto questions
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Same here.............I was waiting for an opinion on this I would have confidence in. Lay it out for us Daniel....:D
 
one you can run 10k miles on and one breaks down before 4k....not really sure what the question is.
 
I’m running synthetic in my jeep. Still looks new after 5,000 miles. I change it every 5,000. Hasn’t hardly started turning colors yet
 
you can...you can mix and match also, but then you can't go the same distance between changes. The only thing you want to watch out for with synthetic is trying to run it in a high mileage motor with any kind of sludging, as it will break all that crap up and it ends up blocking the oil sump and the oil pressure drop can take out the main/rod bearings and the cam journals. Learned that lesson the hard way long before I turned wrenches for a living.
 
Engines will use the same amount of shear abuse, carbon, fuel (burnt and unburnt ) and what ever else regardless of oil types you use. I wouldnt use either one for more than 5000 miles on gas engines.

Switch between either one, doubt very seriously that you or your engine will know which one is in there.

The proper/correct viscosity for the engine is more import.
 
10k was the factory interval on all the new Toyotas when i worked at the dealership....I also don't go that far and change at 5k but its nice not having to worry about changing it right on the dot.
 
My Veloster has recommended intervals every 7500 miles for oil change. Conventional or synthetic.
I used synthetic in my Buell though. 1203cc v-twin, Air cooled, with oil cooling from the swing arm oil reservoir.

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I only used synthetic in engines that were turbocharged because they ran hotter.

No idea whether it actually made a difference.
 
Depends on the vehicle really. Depends on mileage...

The reason its a heated discussion is because people think its a one size fits all argument.
 
I've never ran anything other than Mobil1 full syn in my 4Runner.

As of right now, I have 290,000+ miles on it. The last time I changed the VCGs/tube seals, there was no sludge on anything; valve covers, camshafts, nothing..and everything looked to be in damn near perfect condition.

Yeah...I know you can go a pretty good ways before you have to do an oil/filter change when running full synthetic, but I still change it out every 5000.
 
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Gspec said:
10k was the factory interval on all the new Toyotas when i worked at the dealership....I also don't go that far and change at 5k but its nice not having to worry about changing it right on the dot.
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Was this when Toyota was replacing engines?

Personally I don't go over 5k or one year. Most of my vehicles may only see a couple grand a year. I run synthetic in the powerstroke and scooter, everything else gets dino juice.


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GeorgeBush said:
Depends on the vehicle really. Depends on mileage...

The reason its a heated discussion is because people think its a one size fits all argument.
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I personally like it when people run conventional oil in modern motors......especially when they do so and think that their service reminder on the dash is actually a oil quality/viscosity sensing/magic/know-all gadget and wait till the little light comes on before even starting to think about having it changed.....Keeps my bills paid :)
 
Personally, I run Lubrication Engineers and change it when the oil analysis tells me to....
 
Synthetic has a lower viscosity when it’s time to drain over conventional. Meaning it’s closer to the starting viscosity. Synthetic doesn’t break down thermally as bad as conventional. High mileage engines that are ran with synthetic are far cleaner on the inside than conventional. Each has it perks. I personally run synthetic engine oil. Check out the website bob the oil guy. More info on engine oil than you every wanted, or knew existed.
 
"Is thier really a Mech difference. "

i don't know.
here's what i know:

1. Synthetic is great, but it leaks a lot in +100K vehicles.
after 100K, i go all conventional. i have 4 cars.
only one is Synthetic now.
2. Synthetic is "worth it" because of the extended oil change time.
15,000 instead of 5,000. it adds up to favor Synthetic.
3. over all, Synthetic has been good to me since i start Synthetic.
my van has 300,000(whatever) miles and the Camry has
200,000 (and something) miles. they were Synthetic until
they passed 100K. the Honda just changed to Synthetic.
the Chevy won't get there for a while, yet.
 
If you don't run your vehicle in extreme environments with dust/dirt, extremely high/cold temperatures, high rpms/heavy loads, etc..... then run the viscosity of oil (synthetic or conventional) your owners manual suggests for the given OAT/season and change it and the filter as stated below.

If your annual mileage averages 12,000 to 15,000 miles or lower, then change your oil and filter twice a year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. If you run higher miles during the year, or run in extreme environments/conditions, then adjust oil/filter change frequency according to what your vehicle owners manual suggests.

Do that and you and your vehicle's engine will be fine regardless of whether you're running synthetic or conventional oil.
 
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J R Green said:
Am I the only one who still changes oil at 3000 miles?

And yes I use synthetic too.
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I'm sure you're not the only one. It won't hurt anything to continue to do so. If you're running a modern vehicle however, it's not necessary to change the oil that frequently as far as mileage is concerned.

Most people ignore the owners manual of their vehicle. If you change your own oil, I'd suggest reading and following what it says regarding oil changes. If you don't change your own oil, I'd still recommend following your vehicle's owners manual schedule of maintenance to determine when to take it in for an oil & filter change.
 
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Ford 6.7 diesel gets Motorcraft oil filter and 13 qts. of Rotella T6 every 5K miles, Motorcraft fuel filters at 10K miles, and a new Motorcraft air filter every 20K miles. I can't say what good it does, other than my "peace"of mind.

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If you change oil as much as I do, I put about 50K a year on my truck, this is one of the handiest things I've ever used. Not to mention it changes the oil discharge from horizontal to vertical.

The wife's 5.0 gets regular ol' Motorcraft semi synthetic and filter every 5K miles.
 
My 6.7 diesel goes to the dealership every 5K for some fresh Motorcraft.

I had a lot of useful information to contribute to this thread. You're welcome. :D
 
I try to change at every 5,000, that's every ~ 2 1/2 months from just driving to work 4 days a week
 
fishgutzy said:
My Veloster has recommended intervals every 7500 miles for oil change. Conventional or synthetic.
I used synthetic in my Buell though. 1203cc v-twin, Air cooled, with oil cooling from the swing arm oil reservoir.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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You know I ran both in my buell.

synthetic was louder as far as valvetrain noise. Ended up running dino oil.

Primary I ran both. Preferred synthetic as the clutch had a better engagement feel to it over the dino stuff

I ran 15-40 rotella diesel stuff in my Jeep conventional.

My Toyota truck is conventional 10-40 vavloline

My Honda Odyssey gets 15-40 conventional

My Honda Accord get 15-40 rotella diesel conventional
 
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Shell Pennzoil Pure Plus Platinum High Mileage 5W30 in my Honda (229k) and Subaru (90k). Neither one burns or leaks a drop between changes. GTL technology is the bomb. Rotella T6 5W40, JASO certified in my bike. Its also GTL. Everything goes 5k miles, it's just easier that way.
 
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VA_GENTLEMAN said:
Amsoil
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Yep, one of the few truly synthetic oils on the market.

As to the "Synthetic" you buy from napa or autozone.....it isn't. They have a small amount of synthetic in them but they're all fossil based (with the exception of 0w20 castrol european type).

Amsoil is the real deal. I run it in my 6.0 diesel and it is good stuff. Lessened stiction issues, oil pressure is quicker on start up and after 3-4000 miles it still looks like it was just put in (and with every other oil in a diesel its black at about 100 miles after change).

I run 20,000 miles in between oil changes with amsoil so it saves me money as well.
 
I have plenty of customers that run Rotella (conventional, semi and full syn) for 20k miles as per oil analysis.
 
conventional oil vs a true PAO synthetic = different worlds. modern conventional vs hydrocracked synthetic put out by everyone now = not that much difference.

I have to run PAO synthetics in the VWs to get that 10K mile oil change interval. Mobil 1 Euro 0-40W is an excellent true synthetic. So is Castrol Syntec 0W40. Schaeffers' is even better than both.

I never fell for the amsoil AmWay Scam. 10K+ mile OCIs on everything regardless of engine type. At that point, running 'fleet' type OCIs you had better be running a remote filter, maybe duals and even then I would have to send samples to Blackstone labs every 5K miles.
 
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