Anyone here have experience lubing pistol brass with a progressive? Lubing, sizing, cleaning, then loading doubles the cranks on the press. I'm limiting repetitive motions on the shoulder for a while. Has anyone used anything like the Hornady one shot without cleaning the brass afterwards? I'm thinking if it dries without leaving an oil or wax it might not be enough to contaminate power/primer.
Lubing pistol brass before sizing? On a progressive?
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I generally lube my pistol brass before loading & I don’t lube, size, clean and then load. I use my home made lube (lanolin and alcohol) which is the same as what’s in commercial lubes. I lube a batch of brass & generally wait till the next day to load it to give it enough time for the alcohol to burn off / evaporate.
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I didnt used to lube pistol brass on my dillon 550 but started doing so with new 45 brass. Runs a whole lot smoother and faster. I use Hornady One Shot. I put 50 cases in/on a plastic loading block and spray them. Wait a minute or two and start loading. Hornady One Shot does not affect powder or primers. I stuck my first 9mm case in the resizing die the other day. Have no idea why. I started spraying 9mm brass too now.
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I normally spray the inside of of a gallon zip lock bag with 2 full seconds of hornady case lube. Drop 400ish cases in the bag and tumble it around in my hands for a minute. Dump into case feeder and go to work.
Clicker
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I lube certain calibers because they were shot in an open bolt subgun with a very large chamber. Started years ago when I had 9mm cases pulled out of the shellplate during sizing because of this and lube solved the problem.
If you're concerned about lube inside the case take some extra time to place all the cases in the same direction and spray their sides then shake them a bit in a bag or box.
If you're concerned about lube inside the case take some extra time to place all the cases in the same direction and spray their sides then shake them a bit in a bag or box.
No, I don’t lube pistol brass. Doing so would probably make sizing easier, but I don’t like the idea of lubing the inside of the gun’s chamber and I don’t want to take time to dry tumble the lube off the bullets. Maybe it doesn’t matter, it’s just what I do.
The only time I have NEEDED to lube pistol brass was when I got some brand new Starline brass. Sizing wasn't the problem, the expander was sticking inside the case. I stood all the cases upright and gave a quick shot with Hornady One-Shot lube, make sure to get some down inside the case. It takes very little. I did not bother tumbling afterwards.
Dale Gribble
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Hornady One Shot will not contaminate primers or powder...used it for years.
If you are concerned about residue on the case after loading, you can wipe them down or tumble them. Some folks say you should not tumble loaded ammunition, but the factory does.
1. clean brass
2. Lay on towel and spray liberally with One-Shot. Roll around in towel and let dry 5 minutes
3. Load ammo on progressive
4. shoot ammo
2. Lay on towel and spray liberally with One-Shot. Roll around in towel and let dry 5 minutes
3. Load ammo on progressive
4. shoot ammo
RacerX
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I have lee that is carbide and hornady which is titianium oxide or something that is supposed to do the same thing. Not the old steel type that "require" lube.
It sizes with moderate effort, no problem. I'm trying to dodge that moderate effort on my shoulder.
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I spray it, I don’t do anything re case mouths
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I’ve never lubed pistol brass because I don’t want to deal with lube inside the case causing powder to stick. I learned this with .223 rifle rounds but maybe it’s not as big of an issue with pistol since even 9mm is much larger diameter.
I’ve used Lee and Dillon dies.
I’ve used Lee and Dillon dies.
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I’ve got carbide dies, the only issue I’ve really had was virgin/wet cleaned brass galling onto my Dillon powder drop. Someone told me, probably @Butter, to tumble the brass in used media to carbon coat the brass.
That worked.
I have used Redding Imperial Sizing Wax by touching it with an index finger, then rolling every fifth piece of brass between my fingers. That was enough for the next 5+ cases.
REDDING IMPERIAL SIZING DIE WAX-2 OZ. | Brownells
Imperial Sizing Die Wax was developed in the early 1970's, and it has been popular with precision reloaders ever since - look in any shooters reloading box at a benchrest match and you will find a tin. Reloaders like Imperial because of its extrem...
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Thanks for the replies all.
I've tried the trick with putting imperial was on every X case, its absolutely necessary with my lee 9mm. There is very high effort frequently otherwise to resize 9.
I'm going to see what I can do with lanolin and oneshot.
I've tried the trick with putting imperial was on every X case, its absolutely necessary with my lee 9mm. There is very high effort frequently otherwise to resize 9.
I'm going to see what I can do with lanolin and oneshot.
I’m not having an issue with Dillon 9mm dies
contender
Well-Known Member
I have chosen the following method for my handloading.
(1) Wet clean & dry cases.
Place quantity in a shallow cardboard box, spray with Hornady or Dillon case lube.
Let sit for 15-30 minutes.
Place cases in auto case feed hopper.
Load.
Enjoy competition shooting & haven't had squibs, or misfires.
(1) Wet clean & dry cases.
Place quantity in a shallow cardboard box, spray with Hornady or Dillon case lube.
Let sit for 15-30 minutes.
Place cases in auto case feed hopper.
Load.
Enjoy competition shooting & haven't had squibs, or misfires.
No sense in spending money on Carbide dies if you are wasting time lubing them. Dillon’s work fine using Carbide dies, no lube needed. Some folks don’t have their presses set to the correct height for best mechanical advantage, but that is easily fixed. Tumble your brass clean, swab out your dies every 500 cases or so, and resize. No lube needed. If I resize a case, it’s a bottleneck case in a single-stage press. Dillon’s were made for Carbide Dies and no lube.
So then you spend time cleaning the lube off the loaded rounds? Why? The only die that needs swabbed out is the Carbide Sizer die. If you load lead bullets, you'll eventually either dismantle & clean the seater die, or your cartridge overall length will be too short, from all the lead crud pushing the bullets too far down in the case. Semi-autos don't like short loads, and pressures go up. Something many folks pay no attention to, until bad things happen. Even loading just FMJ bullets, it doesn't hurt to do a PM on your die sets every so many rounds. But, if you don't change oil in the car, and get away with it, no problem. If you don't crank out a bunch of ammo on a regular basis, you may get by for awhile.
Cleaning lube off of loaded ammo isn’t necessary. Before this thread I didn’t know anyone even did such a thing but if you have time and you like really nice, factory new, shiny looking ammo sure. I just drop my loaded ammo into 30 cal ammo cans. Sure a little lube residue comes off onto my hands when loading but who cares.
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Dillon 550, Lee carbide 9mm dies, dry tumbled in corncob media and load with no lube. As long as cases are clean (not shinny new looking) I’ve had no problems after years of doing it this way.
I’ve heard lots of complaints about real shinny new looking and new brass sticking. But, my cleaned cases don’t look like new and I know people don’t think their clean if they don’t look new. Find what works for you.
I’ve heard lots of complaints about real shinny new looking and new brass sticking. But, my cleaned cases don’t look like new and I know people don’t think their clean if they don’t look new. Find what works for you.
It is not necessary to lube brass or even clean your brass. You can pick up brass and wipe it down and blow the inside out. Just making sure there is no dirt inside or out. Then load with carbide dies. Now that I said that, I wet clean cause I like pretty and shiny brass. Then I spray Hornady one shot on pistol brass while they are laying down on a towel. When they dry I throw them in a bin and reload. It takes very little time and it is much easier on my bad shoulder.
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If I were the OP, I would use the Hornady One Shot. I have also used the homemade recipe of 99% alcohol and lanolin. It really helps with .357 mag brass and .45 colt. I can sympathize with the sore shoulder. Lubing helps. Even with 9mm.
When lubing, I place my brass laying down, on a paper towel, or two, inside a low sided plastic box. Spray the brass, then roll around several times on the paper towel. Spray at an angle to minimize the chance of lube getting inside the case. Dry the brass for a few minutes, load and shoot. I, like others don't worry about the One Shot. Oh, I only reload for handguns.
Larry
When lubing, I place my brass laying down, on a paper towel, or two, inside a low sided plastic box. Spray the brass, then roll around several times on the paper towel. Spray at an angle to minimize the chance of lube getting inside the case. Dry the brass for a few minutes, load and shoot. I, like others don't worry about the One Shot. Oh, I only reload for handguns.
Larry
contender
Well-Known Member
As noted above,, with carbide dies,, it may not be NECESSARY.
However,, as a trained machinist,, I can attest to a few facts. (Although I no longer work as one.)
Just because you can,,, doesn't mean you have to,, with many things.
In handloading,, clean dies will last longer. I have seen damaged carbide dies from not cleaning them occasionally, or using dirty brass.
Lubing brass. As noted,, carbide dies can & are used w/o lube. But as a machinist,, when two dissimilar metals meet,, having a LIGHT lube is always a good idea. It reduces the friction. It allows the tools to work better. It helps protect the tools, and the work piece.
And stresses upon metal causes a thing called "work hardening."
And yes,, I have had people bring me carbide dies,, with stuck cases inside,, rims ripped off,, to help them fix things.
Lubing years ago meant putting a gooey heavy feeling oil on a pad, hand rolling the brass to coat it. It was time consuming & a bit messy. Still is,, if you go that route,, as compared to modern pump or spray lubes that are designed for handloading.
I always tell new reloaders a few things;
If you want to make quality ammo,, look at the paid professional competition shooters & what they do. Those that reload,, use certain things, do certain procedures, and make their ammo the best they can. Their JOB & all DEPENDS upon them performing well. Ammo issues can kill them. Rarely do any of them have such problems,, in a match,, because they have worked out all the other issues beforehand.
So, study their equipment choices,, study their methods of ammo assembly, and you will see a pattern emerge if you ask several of them. (This eliminates the sponsors choices used by a few.)
A good example is how the USPSA does a survey of the stuff used in the Nationals by ALL competitors, (or at least the ones who fill out the surveys,) and publishes the results. It's interesting to read the results. In fact,, they used to do the surveys years ago,, and just recently went back to doing them after several years of not doing them.
Some equipment,, changes due to design improvements. But when it comes to reloading,,,, much of what was good in the 90's & early 2000's,, is STILL used today.
Now,, I know people who never clean their guns. I know some who load whatever brass they have,, including steel Wolf stuff. I've even seen one guy who re-used split brass by putting fingernail polish over the split.
My point?
A lot will work. But do you want to make truly good ammo & have your expensive equipment last, or not?
Lubing brass doesn't hurt anything,, even when using carbide dies.
However,, as a trained machinist,, I can attest to a few facts. (Although I no longer work as one.)
Just because you can,,, doesn't mean you have to,, with many things.
In handloading,, clean dies will last longer. I have seen damaged carbide dies from not cleaning them occasionally, or using dirty brass.
Lubing brass. As noted,, carbide dies can & are used w/o lube. But as a machinist,, when two dissimilar metals meet,, having a LIGHT lube is always a good idea. It reduces the friction. It allows the tools to work better. It helps protect the tools, and the work piece.
And stresses upon metal causes a thing called "work hardening."
And yes,, I have had people bring me carbide dies,, with stuck cases inside,, rims ripped off,, to help them fix things.
Lubing years ago meant putting a gooey heavy feeling oil on a pad, hand rolling the brass to coat it. It was time consuming & a bit messy. Still is,, if you go that route,, as compared to modern pump or spray lubes that are designed for handloading.
I always tell new reloaders a few things;
If you want to make quality ammo,, look at the paid professional competition shooters & what they do. Those that reload,, use certain things, do certain procedures, and make their ammo the best they can. Their JOB & all DEPENDS upon them performing well. Ammo issues can kill them. Rarely do any of them have such problems,, in a match,, because they have worked out all the other issues beforehand.
So, study their equipment choices,, study their methods of ammo assembly, and you will see a pattern emerge if you ask several of them. (This eliminates the sponsors choices used by a few.)
A good example is how the USPSA does a survey of the stuff used in the Nationals by ALL competitors, (or at least the ones who fill out the surveys,) and publishes the results. It's interesting to read the results. In fact,, they used to do the surveys years ago,, and just recently went back to doing them after several years of not doing them.
Some equipment,, changes due to design improvements. But when it comes to reloading,,,, much of what was good in the 90's & early 2000's,, is STILL used today.
Now,, I know people who never clean their guns. I know some who load whatever brass they have,, including steel Wolf stuff. I've even seen one guy who re-used split brass by putting fingernail polish over the split.
My point?
A lot will work. But do you want to make truly good ammo & have your expensive equipment last, or not?
Lubing brass doesn't hurt anything,, even when using carbide dies.
I do not tumble lube off. It’s a dry lube. It has a binder that evaporates.
I’ve loaded tens of thousands of wet tumbled brass like this for competition. As have others in this thread. Alternately, if it’s dry tumbled and just “kinda clean” I use very little lube.
But I’ll make sure and check with you before I do anything from now on. Finally we have a real expert here. Thanks!
People have different ways of doing things that work. I am not telling you to do it my way.
But you are telling everyone to do it your way. You are unpleasant and arrogant.
Read post #21 again. While i do question the need for lube on carbide dies, nowhere did i state that you must do anything specific if you wanted to do things the “right way”. You feel the need to use lube when the design was made to eliminate lubing brass, be my guest. As an unpleasant and arrogant person i know would say in this case, “We all know from birth, when you act Dumb, you get to Suffer”.
Have a nice Lube session🤦♀️
Have a nice Lube session🤦♀️
Carbine or TiNi dies are all I have in pistol. Lube is not necessary, but it decreases the effort required dramatically, which makes a difference when you sit down and roll out 500+ in a session. It also tightens up COAL a bit, and lessens or eliminates the obnoxious sometimes powder spilling sticking and popping on the PTX.
Literally no downside. It has never caused me the slightest problem. With brass juice I spray when I dump brass in the case feeder, saves me the extra step of shaking.
Literally no downside. It has never caused me the slightest problem. With brass juice I spray when I dump brass in the case feeder, saves me the extra step of shaking.
@Amanda4461 what's up bub? Let it go. The OP was asking about lubing, to make it easier on his shoulder. Let those who lube, lube. Ain't hurting nothing. Helps folks with disabilities.
Larry
Larry
Another tidbit that adds to friction......i used to tumble with crushed walnut......the walnut dust acted like a lubricant. When i went to wet tumbling and the cases were squeaky clean, you noticed more friction when pulling the handle. I have never stuck a case sizing handgun gases and not lubing with carbide dies. But........using one shot as directed will make your life a little easier when sizing longer/larger cases.....especially on a progressive press.
This right here......