Motorcycle love

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This reminds me of a friend of mine. About 25 years ago at a vintage MX race, he was riding a piston-port two stroke that would run backwards as well as forwards, if it kicked back. He’d kickstarted his bike on the line and it was running backwards unbeknownst to him. Revs up, the gate drops, everyone shot forward and he shot backward 😂
 
Put another hundred miles on the old 900-RR yesterday. Got the oil and filter changed in the R6, and installed my lap timer on top of the steering dampener. literally looks like it was made for it. Waxed it, and put a couple stickers on it.

Got the old F4i cleaned up and ready to set it out for sale at the track day on the 27th. Really looking forward to this upcoming track day.

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Stick Man said:
Put another hundred miles on the old 900-RR yesterday. Got the oil and filter changed in the R6, and installed my lap timer on top of the steering dampener. literally looks like it was made for it. Waxed it, and put a couple stickers on it.

Got the old F4i cleaned up and ready to set it out for sale at the track day on the 27th. Really looking forward to this upcoming track day.

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What all do you have in the garage right now?
 
It took the first engine/primary/trans fluid change to transform this bike into a real Harley Davidson.

It leaks oil in two different places now.




Well, at least it’s not marking its territory. Just a little weepy when I checked it the first two rides after the first fluid changes.

I need to get a tube of some sort of sealant for the plug threads, like they put on at the factory, and maybe replace one of the oil lines to the filter relo kit I installed.

When I do the next service.
 
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fieldgrade said:
It took the first engine/primary/trans fluid change to transform this bike into a real Harley Davidson.

It leaks oil in two different places now.




Well, at least it’s not marking its territory. Just a little weepy when I checked it the first two rides after the first fluid changes.

I need to get a tube of some sort of sealant for the plug threads, like they put on at the factory, and maybe replace one of the oil lines to the filter relo kit I installed.

When I do the next service.
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the only time i've had leaks is when i've followed the service manuals recommended fluid level. the bike actually likes to be run lower than what the book states (and will drip or puke out the excess)
 
Diablos said:
the only time i've had leaks is when i've followed the service manuals recommended fluid level. the bike actually likes to be run lower than what the book states (and will drip or puke out the excess)
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No more than half way up the hash marks on the engine oil dipstick when checking hot.

I’m witch ya.
 
Diablos said:
had the same problem with the primary, book states 32oz but it really likes around 28 (and will let you know by leaking out the excess)
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A smidge lower and the rumor is the clutch will behave better too, but I filled mine to spec on a wet fill last week.
30 oz.

I tried filling a couple ounces less on the Road Pig primary and I couldn’t tell any difference.
 
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fieldgrade said:
A smidge lower and the rumor is the clutch will behave better too, but I filled mine to spec on a wet fill last week.
30 oz.

I tried filling a couple ounces less on the Road Pig primary and I couldn’t tell any difference.
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ya know, i really like the sporty. fill it to the weep hole on the side of the primary and its good.
 
@fieldgrade Twin performance quoted me the minimum, 1/2 hour @ $130 per hr. "Whatever that comes to..." to enable my fans.
 
Sp00ks said:
@fieldgrade Twin performance quoted me the minimum, 1/2 hour @ $130 per hr. "Whatever that comes to..." to enable my fans.
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I’ve never heard anything but good about them.

They *might* want you to leave the bike with them. They aren’t big on bringing bikes in for service and waiting. I’ve had that conversation with them, but because this is just plugging their scanner into a plug that is behind your left side cover, they might do it while you wait. I’d ask. Bulldog will do it without an appointment on Saturday morning while you wait, but you need to show up when they open. And check behind them to be sure it works, and I’m not sure how to do that with the fans. In my case the indicator light they were enabling, wasn’t enabled. I could visibly tell.
 
fieldgrade said:
I’ve never heard anything but good about them.

They *might* want you to leave the bike with them. They aren’t big on bringing bikes in for service and waiting. I’ve had that conversation with them, but because this is just plugging their scanner into a plug that is behind your left side cover, they might do it while you wait. I’d ask. Bulldog will do it without an appointment on Saturday morning while you wait, but you need to show up when they open. And check behind them to be sure it works, and I’m not sure how to do that with the fans. In my case the indicator light they were enabling, wasn’t enabled. I could visibly tell.
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I specifically asked him if I made an appointment would he do it while I waited. He agreed and was ready to make the appt. I told him I would call back after I have them installed.
 
Sp00ks said:
I specifically asked him if I made an appointment would he do it while I waited. He agreed and was ready to make the appt. I told him I would call back after I have them installed.
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There you go. That sounds good.
 
Harley....thread lock and lock washers on a T25......
 
Diablos said:
honestly i dont know why they call out thread locker on specific parts, if its a nut or bolt on a harley, it needs thread locker
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I buggered one up but I got them out. I'll need to run out tomorrow to Ace and get a replacement.
 
I have never used thread locker on derby cover screws. I just hand tighten them good and snug with a screw driver style torx wrench.

T27 is correct

The washers are captured on the T27 screws as I recall.

There are some T27’s on the perch clamps on the handlebars also.

And T25’s hold the controls on , between the grips and the perch clamps
 
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fieldgrade said:
I have never used thread locker on derby cover screws. I just hand tighten them good and snug with a screw driver style tq wrench.

T27 is correct

The washers are captured on the T27 screws as I recall.

There are some T27’s on the perch clamps on the handlebars also.

And T25’s hold the controls on , between the grips and the perch clamps
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Gotta use red on the derby 😋
 
Diablos said:
honestly i dont know why they call out thread locker on specific parts, if its a nut or bolt on a harley, it needs thread locker
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In reference to Loctite, the service manager at Blue Ridge H-D in Hickory told me "A properly torqued fastener will never come loose". This was about 15 years ago so they probably have a different service manager now.

.
 
Diablos said:
just wanted to make sure, ready plenty of times on the hdforum where guys had used t25 on the derby and stripped them
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I broke not one, but two T40’s trying to remove the lower screws on an engine guard. Thankfully it didn’t booger up the screws, but it snapped the heads of the sockets right off. It was then I realized they were T45’s.

It was kind of weird that rather than booger up the screws with a too small torx socket, it just snapped the heads off, right where they were inserted into the screw.
 
Got both fans installed. That cool flow was a royal pita. I haven't done the switch gear yet. Maybe tomorrow after work.
 
www.yahoo.com

Man Stands on Motorcycle While Driving Over 100 MPH: Cops

It’s a scene that looks far too dangerous for the highway. Police in Fishers, Indiana, say they spotted someone on their motorcycle driving more than 100 miles per hour. They released dash cam video of the incident that also shows him standing up on the bike. The officer eventually pulled the...
www.yahoo.com www.yahoo.com
 
@fieldgrade Das German haz different vay. This guy is the tech guy for Wilburs suspension.



Reminded me of a training video at work.... works, I just did it. Had to turn the ignition to lock to get the cluster over it.
 
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The only thing I do different is

a) just use a dental pic to release that little front tab in the cover under the ignition switch. I did it a bunch of times with two bar changes and adding heated grips. never damaged it, but it does look fragile.

b) you DON’T have to unplug the right electrical plug. It can be a bee-yotch. But left plug is easy, then lay the cluster to the side.
 
fieldgrade said:
The only thing I do different is

a) just use a dental pic to release that little front tab in the cover under the ignition switch. I did it a bunch of times with two bar changes and adding heated grips. never damaged it, but it does look fragile.

b) you DON’T have to unplug the right electrical plug. It can be a bee-yotch. But left plug is easy, then lay the cluster to the side.
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The lock tab on the plug is on the wrong side and you can't get to it. I just unscrewed it from the cluster
 
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