So I've been built a few 1911, but mostly with semi-fit parts requiring just filing or stoning. I sent my guns out for tasks above my skillset, knowledge base,tools, etc. I'd been shooting my G34 in competition (USPSA Carry Optics), but when the "gamer" bug finally bit me, I started looking for a CZ play with.
I picked up a used SP-01 Tactical for $350 and slapped a dovetail optic plate on it. It was great until my groups started opening up. I found that the aluminum plate was getting loose in the dovetail, and the tiny set screws didn't have enough bite to hold on without fear of stripping them. With my minimal investment in the gun, I figured I could try my hand at something more involved. Because of the firing pin block and retainer pin on the decocker models, most companies only mill the optic plate pocket deep enough that the optic sits barely below flush with the top of the slide. While a lower mount is possible, the amount of custom machining and fabrication needed would far exceed the price of the gun. So I took some measurements and came up with a rough plan.
I then fired up a CAD program and started milling some scrap aluminum to test my program. I realized I would not be able to go as deep as I wanted. The FP block plunger needs enough room to lift up into the slide to release the firing pin. I found some room by deciding to use the under-side of the optic sealing plate as the "roof" of the cutout, similar to how optic cuts are done with M&Ps.
Next I had to figure out how to secure the .360" thick Trijicon plate so I could mill it thinner. I machined a reverse pocket to secure the plate (upside-down) via the front/rear and the recoil lugs. It was held to the plate via 6-32 mounting screws. I thinned it to .1055" This allows me to get 3 1/2 turns of engagement for the 6-32 mounting screws, slightly more than most oem (~.100") mounting plates.
Then I went to work on the slide. I cut the pocket to a depth of .230". This gives me a .120" deep pocket for the optic. It just barely intrudes into the retaining pin hole, but clears the CGW split roll pin. It reduces the FP block hole depth by 0.030", but with the CGW Short Reset Kit, the plunger doesn't bottom out against the optic sealing plate.
I drilled and tapped the slide mounting holes, then drilled and countersunk the optic plate and FP plunger pass thru hole. I chose M3 screws for the mounting plate. They provided the right combination of head diameter/depth, thread engagement, and clearance to the slide internals. . With room for 4 mounting screws, the optic plate is rock solid in the slide.
I wanted to mill new serrations up front, but I found it was much easier to manipulate the slide from the rear. I milled "Glock style" serrations into the side of the optic plate. It's a lot easier to grab than the serrations up front. The RMR sits as low as on my milled Glocks now.
I sent the slide off for Cerakote last week. I asked for matte black to match the oem Polycoat, and red on the optic plate (gotta have a little lipstick) to match my other accessories. While I wait, I also exchanged the PalmSwell grips from LOK for their Shadow 2 lined grips, and received my matching holster from Red Hill Tactical.
I picked up a used SP-01 Tactical for $350 and slapped a dovetail optic plate on it. It was great until my groups started opening up. I found that the aluminum plate was getting loose in the dovetail, and the tiny set screws didn't have enough bite to hold on without fear of stripping them. With my minimal investment in the gun, I figured I could try my hand at something more involved. Because of the firing pin block and retainer pin on the decocker models, most companies only mill the optic plate pocket deep enough that the optic sits barely below flush with the top of the slide. While a lower mount is possible, the amount of custom machining and fabrication needed would far exceed the price of the gun. So I took some measurements and came up with a rough plan.
I then fired up a CAD program and started milling some scrap aluminum to test my program. I realized I would not be able to go as deep as I wanted. The FP block plunger needs enough room to lift up into the slide to release the firing pin. I found some room by deciding to use the under-side of the optic sealing plate as the "roof" of the cutout, similar to how optic cuts are done with M&Ps.
Next I had to figure out how to secure the .360" thick Trijicon plate so I could mill it thinner. I machined a reverse pocket to secure the plate (upside-down) via the front/rear and the recoil lugs. It was held to the plate via 6-32 mounting screws. I thinned it to .1055" This allows me to get 3 1/2 turns of engagement for the 6-32 mounting screws, slightly more than most oem (~.100") mounting plates.
Then I went to work on the slide. I cut the pocket to a depth of .230". This gives me a .120" deep pocket for the optic. It just barely intrudes into the retaining pin hole, but clears the CGW split roll pin. It reduces the FP block hole depth by 0.030", but with the CGW Short Reset Kit, the plunger doesn't bottom out against the optic sealing plate.
I drilled and tapped the slide mounting holes, then drilled and countersunk the optic plate and FP plunger pass thru hole. I chose M3 screws for the mounting plate. They provided the right combination of head diameter/depth, thread engagement, and clearance to the slide internals. . With room for 4 mounting screws, the optic plate is rock solid in the slide.
I wanted to mill new serrations up front, but I found it was much easier to manipulate the slide from the rear. I milled "Glock style" serrations into the side of the optic plate. It's a lot easier to grab than the serrations up front. The RMR sits as low as on my milled Glocks now.
I sent the slide off for Cerakote last week. I asked for matte black to match the oem Polycoat, and red on the optic plate (gotta have a little lipstick) to match my other accessories. While I wait, I also exchanged the PalmSwell grips from LOK for their Shadow 2 lined grips, and received my matching holster from Red Hill Tactical.
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