OP
I think aluminum.
My Journey with an M37
- Thread starter rdinatal
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If you send me some detailed pictures of the front and back so I can see all the details, I might be able to sand cast some for you in aluminum. I just need to see whether they would work in a two-part mold.
OP
Heat from the sun, A/C from the wind!Great project, looking good
I have a question. Does that heap have heat?
One could call it a green vehicle.
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OP
Almost done with the fuel pump. Plumbed into the tank, ran the new hose (leaving the old metal line in place). Used shielding at all rub areas.
Testing worked great. Purged the line for about 1/2gal to flush out the shipping oil in the pump and any dust in the new lines.
Next will be to wire the pressure and priming switches to the relay. Decided to use a momentary switch with a cover to prime:
Testing worked great. Purged the line for about 1/2gal to flush out the shipping oil in the pump and any dust in the new lines.
Next will be to wire the pressure and priming switches to the relay. Decided to use a momentary switch with a cover to prime:
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OP
The correct pressure sender and safety switch is installed..
- Utilized the T that was already there.
- Removed the mechanical gauge and 4" nipple.
- Removed the OEM tubing to the (incorrect) sender.
- Put the switch in place of the flared tube
- Used a 1" long 1/8" MIP nipple to lower the sender due to the new PS hoses at the OEM height of the sender.
- Need to fab a custom clamp/bracket as it wasn't there.
You would think for a big truck there would be more room. Surprisingly it's so tightly packed in there.
Next will be to wire everything up using a relay and priming toggle switch. The toggle switch is better than the starter "hot" when priming after filter changes.
- Utilized the T that was already there.
- Removed the mechanical gauge and 4" nipple.
- Removed the OEM tubing to the (incorrect) sender.
- Put the switch in place of the flared tube
- Used a 1" long 1/8" MIP nipple to lower the sender due to the new PS hoses at the OEM height of the sender.
- Need to fab a custom clamp/bracket as it wasn't there.
You would think for a big truck there would be more room. Surprisingly it's so tightly packed in there.
Next will be to wire everything up using a relay and priming toggle switch. The toggle switch is better than the starter "hot" when priming after filter changes.
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OP
New flaps and radial tubes with the new tires. Have to use tubes on the original Budd rims. Glad I paid The Man to do the work. Getting the locking ring off and on was a real workout for the experts with the correct tools. I'd still be pounding away a day, and 2 strokes, later.
I have the military NDTs sold to a guy in VA. He's coming down Saturday.
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OP
Yes. Which really isn't part of the decision to replace them as it won't see the rain (if possible).
I want a different look when done.
The guy who bought the tires was very happy. I'm very happy with only paying $200 for tires and the look I want.
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OP
Just changed the oil for the 1st flush. As suspected I'm not sure the previous owner did much.
Ran it for 30min to get warm, drained
Used 8oz of Marvel
5qts of Rotella Diesel 10/40
New filter (sludge in filter can 😖)
All new gaskets (filter, drain bolt)
Started it up. Much better sounding and no leaks!!! 😁
Edit: Leak... Needed to crank on the filter cover 1/4 turn after it warmed up. 😒
Ran it for 30min to get warm, drained
Used 8oz of Marvel
5qts of Rotella Diesel 10/40
New filter (sludge in filter can 😖)
All new gaskets (filter, drain bolt)
Started it up. Much better sounding and no leaks!!! 😁
Edit: Leak... Needed to crank on the filter cover 1/4 turn after it warmed up. 😒
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OP
Back at it.
Checked out the oil bath air cleaner. Seems to be missing a doughnut gasket where it sits on the carburetor stack.
Also completed mounting the fuel pump primer switch.
Gas sender and gauge working! Is it accurate, don't know yet.
Made an exhaust extension so CO poisoning won't get me.
View attachment 20240301_130003.mp4
Checked out the oil bath air cleaner. Seems to be missing a doughnut gasket where it sits on the carburetor stack.
Also completed mounting the fuel pump primer switch.
Gas sender and gauge working! Is it accurate, don't know yet.
Made an exhaust extension so CO poisoning won't get me.
View attachment 20240301_130003.mp4
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Jim C.
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I wonder how many different vehicles and over how many years that light switch assembly was used.
ronn47
Where's the Scotch?
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I think that switch was used in all M series vehicles from the post WWII up.
OP
With all the analog gauges on this I want a tester to help troubleshoot issues. Building a test box with a 50ohm potentiometer and (3) 300ohm resistors.
0-50 ohm for oil and gas
300-1k ohms for temperature
May need a couple of micro switches for the temperature testing.
Just ordered the parts, pics later.
0-50 ohm for oil and gas
300-1k ohms for temperature
May need a couple of micro switches for the temperature testing.
Just ordered the parts, pics later.
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OP
Have all the gauges working now. Going to replace the temp gauge to be new like the others.
Found the common Spider Harness almost shot, too many repairs. This supplies 24v to the gauges. Fabbed a new one.
I'm still going to build a test box, only because.
Found the common Spider Harness almost shot, too many repairs. This supplies 24v to the gauges. Fabbed a new one.
I'm still going to build a test box, only because.
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ronn47
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Did you run an extra ground from the instruments/panel to a ground on the body/frame?
Those panel mount screws suck for providing a ground.
OP
Yes. Actually there's two. Both wires are in good condition. I did find a oil pressure connection in the harness that was intermittent.
I'm thinking of mounting a distribution box on the firewall. Terminate all the harness wires there, then run to the gauges. That's low in the list though.
OP
The gauge tester.
A 100ohm pot on the left for oil and gas.
A 2kohm pot on the right for temperature.
Works great 😃 but now it's another custom tool that will be used once or twice.🤨
A 100ohm pot on the left for oil and gas.
A 2kohm pot on the right for temperature.
Works great 😃 but now it's another custom tool that will be used once or twice.🤨
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OP
Got to the directionals today as the pilot light was not on, no flashing.
First checked for shorts by removing all the bulbs, no shorts. Put the parking lights bulbs in and all worked. 👍
Put the F&R directional bulbs in and jumped the 24v and return at flasher box. The pilot light came on, bad box..
Replaced the box with a Napa EG-22, 24v 2 terminal flasher. Flashing! 🤩
The front directionals function as expected. The rear right functions, but...
When the left is on both rear (L&R) flash!?!? 🤔
Back to studying the wire diagram!
First checked for shorts by removing all the bulbs, no shorts. Put the parking lights bulbs in and all worked. 👍
Put the F&R directional bulbs in and jumped the 24v and return at flasher box. The pilot light came on, bad box..
Replaced the box with a Napa EG-22, 24v 2 terminal flasher. Flashing! 🤩
The front directionals function as expected. The rear right functions, but...
When the left is on both rear (L&R) flash!?!? 🤔
Back to studying the wire diagram!
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OP
Got the signals figured out. The mil flasher AND controller were toast.. swapped them out for a Signal Stat 900 and a 3 pin LED compatible flasher. Also found the previous owner had two wires active when the brake switch is closed which screwed up the stop lamps. Rewired and labled!
Took off the old mechanical fuel pump to head off diaphragm cracks and resulting vacuum leaks. Made a block off plate:
Found a missing bolt where the intake and exhaust manifolds join.
All manifold nuts to block studs real loose. Torqued to specs.
Don't know if those were a problem or future headache?
Took off the old mechanical fuel pump to head off diaphragm cracks and resulting vacuum leaks. Made a block off plate:
Found a missing bolt where the intake and exhaust manifolds join.
All manifold nuts to block studs real loose. Torqued to specs.
Don't know if those were a problem or future headache?
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OP
Seriously want to take it out for a ride but the weather isn't cooperating. Raining now. 😤
A 1.5hr drive would be great at 80deg.
Just need to dress up the wires under the dash and at the rear corners.
A 1.5hr drive would be great at 80deg.
Just need to dress up the wires under the dash and at the rear corners.
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