Need Help with a Sears Dryer

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HTSmith

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I've got an old Sears Kenmore Elite HE4 mod 110 Electric Dryer that I've fixed a bunch of times over the years but I'm stumped. Symptom is it just won't work--no heat, no turn, no display lights--nothing. Figured it was some sort of power issue. Figured out how to force it into diagnostic mode and low and behold all the lights are flashing. Hold the start button and it goes to work--heat and drum but all the display lights are on. I open the door and it turns off but displays " 5E ". Then I switch the breaker off for 30 minutes and its dead again, but I can still force into the diagnostic mode. I cannot find an explanation for code 5E anywhere I've looked under both Kenmore and Whirlpool. My new rifle budget is in danger. Any help much appreciated.
 
What’s the full model number? Who or where does it say it was made (Kenmore didn’t make it, it’s just a badge)?

A quick google says that 5E isn’t a Whirlpool error code, it’s the wrong format too. 5E is a Samsung error code that means a short in the heater or thermistor part.
 
HTSmith said:
So do the the more time, less time, more time, less time and just let it sit?
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Nah. If it is a switch it’s easy to repair. It’s nothing more than a micro set of contacts that close when door shuts. When mine broke I wired the two wires together with a wire nut until the switch arrived at D&L Parts store.
 
HTSmith said:
Hmmmm. It's not a Samsung washer. It's a sears dryer.
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I just want to clarify something since it may help in searching for info… It’s not a Sears dryer. It’s not a Kenmore dryer. Neither actually make appliances. Kenmore’s appliances have historically been made by Whirlpool and Frigidaire, for the most part. Over the past decade that has changed a lot, in no small part because of Sears’ financial situation.

The best clues for you to figure out who actually made your dryer are to 1) look at the tag, to the right of the picture you posted it says “mfgd for Sears by/in….” And it’ll either say the corporation or the city. A quick google can tell you who has a factory in that city. 2) look up the parts list for that model using the full “110.85872400”, pick a part, and see what other brand use that part.

The odd part here is that everything I see says that Whirlpool doesn’t use codes like 5E, they’re mostly F1, F2, etc. 5E however is a common Samsung code, but google also shows that this model is a Whirlpool model. Basically, you need someone with more hands on technical knowledge to diagnose this because the resources online are conflicting.
 
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JHFC...

Another example of over complicating a simple piece of equipment! IT'S A FRICKIN' DRYER, HOW MUCH COMPUTING POWER DOES IT NEED?

Here's one link, but this doesn't sound like your issue:


If it didn't have the fancy electronic controls, I'd say it was the start button or door switch. Wouldn't be the lock in relay for the start button.

Since it's got an electronic board, I'd check the door switch first. If it's not that, I'd suspect the control board.
 
BlackGun said:
I have that site in my favorites and have used it a number of times. Another one is partselect.com.
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Clearly you know the good parts spots. D&L is great for local and RepairClinic is the best online parts resource, even after being bought out a few years ago. Both have great people.
Partsselect has a good website but ehhh… I’m admittedly a little biased against them based on my professional experience.
 
Jerzsubbie said:
Clearly you know the good parts spots. D&L is great for local and RepairClinic is the best online parts resource, even after being bought out a few years ago. Both have great people.
Partsselect has a good website but ehhh… I’m admittedly a little biased against them based on my professional experience.
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Partstown.com is more the commercial side but they have a bunch of home appliance parts as well.

An appliance service could make a great living in my area. I once dabbled in it but I was doing many services.
 
RetiredUSNChief said:
Does this mean you've fixed it and are now playing "I've got a secret"?

Let us know what the problem was!
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Well there's more to the story than meets the eye. Seems I've joined the Covid club....wife won't let me into the laundry room:eek:. As soon as I can test negative I'll short out the door switch and see what happens. I'll keep you posted.
 
Jerzsubbie said:
Clearly you know the good parts spots. D&L is great for local and RepairClinic is the best online parts resource, even after being bought out a few years ago. Both have great people.
Partsselect has a good website but ehhh… I’m admittedly a little biased against them based on my professional experience.
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I frequently use those sites to figure out what I need, then I take the part number to fleabay or Amazon and find it for 50% (or more) less.
 
Would be easy to jumper the door closed switch then see if it starts.

Getting to the switch might be challenging.
 
Agree the door switch, my daughters would let it slam shut over the years, it finally broke, had to jumper it for a day or two to get it to run.
I get a lot of factory parts on ebay from a guy in Florida less expensive then the parts houses, many have been bought out by large companies.
 
Les White said:
I frequently use those sites to figure out what I need, then I take the part number to fleabay or Amazon and find it for 50% (or more) less.
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Exactly, those sites are excellent resources but pricing isn’t the most competitive. I’ll warn you though, ebay and Amazon are wrought with counterfeit and knock off parts marketed as genuine. It might be hard to believe but people do make counterfeit parts. Most counterfeits come out of SoCal, Miami, and Houston, but I’ve gotten some out of Indiana as well. If the price is too good to be true, that’s probably why.
 
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