Need HVAC review/advice from the experts

Catfish

Catfish

straight-up ninja'n
2A Bourbon Hound 2024
Supporting Member
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
12,510
Location
Charlotte
Rating - 100%
72   0   0
Hello & thanks for looking

I have an older 2100 Sf home with separate upstairs and downstairs HVAC installed new in 2020. They installed Rheem systems, a split heat pump upstairs and a gas pak downstairs.
I've had service techs come out every 6 months since install. Last year they replaced the compressor in the split system under warranty.
Yesterday their tech visited and told me 'everything's running fine but I see some warning signs, and I think you should install these things for $1k.' Those warning signs are higher-than-normal starting amps on both systems.

My question to you is: Am I being treated fairly or is he selling me premium blinker fluid?

Here are the tech's notes:

- For the upstairs split system, we checked the blower amperage reading and found it to be at a satisfactory level of 1.4/1.6 Amps. The blower wheel and filter were also clean. We tested the temperature split and found no potential clogs in the drain. However, we noticed that an EZ trap was installed 3 years ago, which is not covered under warranty. We recommend installing another flood safety device to the main drain line to prevent any potential issues.
- Moving on to the outdoor unit, we checked the incoming amps on the compressor and found them to be higher than desired at 19.7/10.3. To bring these amps down to the recommended range, we suggest installing a device. The running amps were in a good range at 5.24/10.3, and the fan motor was running fine at .67/.71. The capacitor was also within the acceptable range. We recommend installing a hard start kit for added protection to the system.
- As for the package unit, the starting amps were significantly higher than optimal at 23/11, which can potentially damage the compressor. We strongly recommend installing a hard start kit for this unit as well. The blower is running at a good level of 1.97/2.8, and the fan motor is running at 1.0/1.5.
Click to expand...

For a deeper dive, I posted the PDFs they sent me to my google drive (click here).

Thanks for your time
 
One of these for $1k. If that is what he's talking about. Have him bring it to you. Shove it where the sun don't shine and find a REPUTABLE hvac guy.

It probably wouldn't hurt to have them on the units. But he's stupid at $1k

Screenshot_20240306_105036_Chrome.jpg
 
As for the package unit, the starting amps were significantly higher than optimal at 23/11, which can potentially damage the compressor.
Click to expand...
I am having trouble understanding his terminology. What is this 23/11?
Generally speaking, an across the line start (meaning just applying full line voltage) will draw roughly 6x the normal run current, at least momentarily until the rotor starts moving and generating back EMF. With the push to make things more efficient, they are making motors with less resistance (loss) which in turn drives up starting currents.
 
The tech explained that the unit was rated for 11 amps at startup and was drawing 23 amps. He didn't tell me the running amps for this unit but I could look it up from the model number if it would help.
 
Catfish said:
The tech explained that the unit was rated for 11 amps at startup and was drawing 23 amps. He didn't tell me the running amps for this unit but I could look it up from the model number if it would help.
Click to expand...
I think getting the machine specifications might be a good thing to help determine if he’s blowing smoke or not. 11 amps sounds low for a compressor start, too, that sounds more like a run level current. With the model number you should be able to get a manual online.
 
The Gas pak is a RGEA14024AJT061ABAJA I downloaded a couple of manuals but can't find anything I understand in them.
The heat pump is RP1424AJ1NA
Drive link has been updated so you don't have to request permission. sorry bout that.
 
Last edited:
Catfish said:
The Gas pak is a RGEA14024AJT061ABAJA I downloaded a couple of manuals but can't find anything I understand in them.
The heat pump is RP1424AJ1NA
Drive link has been updated so you don't have to request permission. sorry bout that.
Click to expand...
All pertinent info will be on the data plate on both units
 
Reminds me of an episode I had many years ago. Our builder used a Lexington-based HVAC company to install our heat pump systems. From day one, we paid them for annual maintenance. After one semi-annual service, the tech said he found that “someone” had installed the wrong rating breaker on one air handler. He explained that could cause problems and it needed to be replaced immediately. Of course, the cost was ridiculous but I bit.

Who could have been that “someone”? 🤬
 
Do your home lights dim when a unit starts up?

As for the split unit- if the line set is longer than usual, like over 50’ you may need it. Or the wire size from the breaker to the outdoor unit is too small a gauge you may need the wire size increased. How long is the copper line set going vertical and total length?

The package unit- only if the wire size is too small. I would need the wire size gauge and total length. Ex: 10, 12, 14

Also I would get a new service company. Sounds to me like they are one of those companies who pay techs by how much they sell per day beyond normal calls, the term is upsale. Techs are forced to do things they shouldn’t or get replaced. The 4 big companies in Charlotte are known for this business model.

I have added hard start kits to only very old units and small refrigeration coolers.
Catfish said:
The tech explained that the unit was rated for 11 amps at startup and was drawing 23 amps. He didn't tell me the running amps for this unit but I could look it up from the model number if it would help.
Click to expand...
BS. Not possible. Move on to a new company.
 
Catfish said:
The Gas pak is a RGEA14024AJT061ABAJA I downloaded a couple of manuals but can't find anything I understand in them
Click to expand...
Per the specification sheet on the website, the compressor motor is a 1/3 horse, which based upon NEMA standards should have a starting current of about 9 amps. The maximum overcurrent protection device (breaker) is also 25A. I agree with @BlackGun in that it sounds like you're being sold a bill of goods.
 
Any recommendations?
Acosta is right across the street from my office. Sky was just down the street but it looks like they re-branded themselves as "Call Dad" and I hate the marketing so much I'll steer clear.
 
Catfish said:
Any recommendations?
Acosta is right across the street from my office. Sky was just down the street but it looks like they re-branded themselves as "Call Dad" and I hate the marketing so much I'll steer clear.
Click to expand...
Sky? Then Call Dad? They were once a company in Hickory called 72 Degrees before selling. LOL

My advice is find a very small company. Small company, low overhead. Low overhead less need to do sketchy things. And advertising is expensive, especially TV. Guess who pays for that.

Ask your friends for recommendations. I don’t know any of the smaller companies in Charlotte.
 
Ya'll ARE my friends. You think I talk to people in person?

Anyone in CLT have a company they are happy with and would recommend? It seems like every company I research gets the same reviews: 'Tech tried to upsell me on stupid expensive garbage'
 
Last edited:
Catfish said:
It seems like every company I research gets the same reviews: 'Tech tried to upsell me on stupid expensive garbage'
Click to expand...
Unfortunately this is common. Consumer Reports put out an article years ago where they unhooked the capacitor and called for service from six places. Not one of them identified the problem. The results were something like: two told them they needed a new compressor. One tried to sell them (told them they needed) a new entire system. Two others messed around, but didn’t fix it, and one simply said, “I don’t know”.
 
I'm lucky, the family run company that installed the original HVAC in 1990 is still around and they are top gun. They did my new up and down furnace and a/c about five and seven years ago. Still running great. No contracts, I just call if needed. Have only one fan motor go bad, I replaced it myself since they were so busy a few years ago and it was less then the trip charge and labor, motor would have been covered by Carrier.
 
That company you hired needs Fired !
I’m surprised the tech didn’t find the compressor muffler bearings needed to be replaced too. LOL !
The tech is trying to scare you into spending thousands of dollars for nothing.
Well, not nothing, you will get about 40 dollars worth of parts.
Find another service company !
Your systems that you replaced in 2020 should be covered by the MFG. warranty
probably for another 6 years.
Get out the equipment paperwork and verify the parts and labor coverage.
Ask your neighbors and co workers for recommendations.
Go to the equipment MFG. website and look for their “authorized” dealers.
 
Catfish said:
Follow up on this: Is it SOP to puncture the return vent with a temperature probe or is that another slacker thing to do?
Click to expand...
Definitely OK and normal. Typically I will do that to test airflow and temperature. Nothing a piece of metal tape will not fix. I will turn the heat strips on and run a calculation to determine if the duct size and fan speed are good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom