Older luxury cars vs newer cars with a payment

IrishCannon

Fight hard.
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Messages
4,407
Location
Poophills Forest
Rating - 100%
4   0   0
So my current vehicle, I owed about 4k, and the value was about $7k, so I'm selling it. I was never attached to it anyway.

So now I just put a $300 deposit down on what appears to be a very well maintained 2003 BMW diesel wagon w/120k miles. - I'll be able to buy it outright and not have a payment.

Now I'm kind of getting cold feet. Was this a bad decision? I see some people love them, others don't. I'm not a DIY auto guy, not that I haven't had interest, just haven't had the time or tools to learn.

The vehicle comes with a 2yr 50/50 warranty on parts/labor for all engine/transmission/differential issues.

I'm essentially just scared it will be a money pit, even though from what I can tell it was very well taken care of.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I don't think I will EVER buy a new car.

I have always owned used cars/trucks/suv's. I do find that some of the luxury cars have "little" things fail that are a PITA! Electric everything means something will fail!

Just hope that it's not something crazy like a sunroof stuck open...

I'm guessing drivetrain will be rock solid with maintenance. I'm a diesel fan but ignorant about BMW diesels.

I just bought a 2006 Chrylser 300C w a hemi and it is PIMP, but i know that some sort of electic thing will fail miserably
 
Luxury cars are designed and built to serve the wants of people who don't care about budgets or long term value. They're looking for exclusivity, 'luxury' and status. Those goals are often at the expense of longevity, maintainability or compatibility. If you're worried about it being a 'money pit' then you're probably not one who makes their #1 priority 'status', and may find yourself unhappy with the results of owning something designed for that purpose.

(having owned several BMWs, I can say "never again". they're just not worth the long term trouble to me based on the repair bills I've had to pay).
 
No payments are the way to go though.
Only payment I have is my house. My wife does have some Department store CC she uses. She says she has to use them to get some kinds of "Deals" once in awhile,
As the the BMW,, I think a lot of you cannon, that's about all I going to say.
 
At 120k , you should be ok for a long time. However.......when you do need repairs, bmw parts can be pricy.
I hear the biggest issues on these seems to be oil leaks, head gaskets and water pumps.

I'm going to see if the dealer has a history report that they can give me so I have an idea of what may or may not need maintenance in the near future.

I am reasonable and understand cars need work. My goal was simply to make those payments less than a monthly premium, and have a car built more like a tank than a tin can.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
BMW, Bring More Wallet.

2003, already 15 years old and now with payments and more than likely costly repair bills.
 
Used/no payment is the way to go. However, that being said, what you buy is very critical in success. I'd look at a used Honda, Toyota, Nissan including the luxury lines of Acura, Lexus and Infiniti before I bought a BMW or Mercedes. Why? As has been mentioned, the powertrains of these cars may last forever but what kills you is when something electrical goes..... or an alternator or the A/C, etc. What you save in payments can cost you in repairs in the German lineup. (30 years in the auto industry and owner of several used vehicles over the years). I'd buy a 3 year old car with 50k-60k on it and pay 1/2 the payment of the same car new or just put down what you are willing to pay cash and pay what you are used to for 2 years (instead of 4,5 or 6 years) and then you will own a great car, with less than 100k on it, free and clear.
 
Buying used cars can be tricky. But that's what I've been doing all my life.

I look for a car in the 10 year old range, give or take, that's been well cared for and has lower-than-average miles, preferably single owner, and preferably an older person owner.

Those cars are typically better cared for and not hit-rodded into the ground by the owner.

I finance (if not bought outright) through NFCU for no more than 3 years. And I will own that car until it dies.

During the period when it's free and clear of payments, I pay myself a car payment into savings. After all, it's my money and my car, might as well pretend I'm a bank and pay me. When the time comes to replace it, I'll not be in any financial bind doing so.

I own such cars typically for as long as 10 years and will put 200,000 plus miles on them. Previous car I owned, for example, I bought with about 89,000 miles on it and replaced it 6 years later when it had 311,000. That car was 17 years old by then. I figure that's pretty darn good...especially when you figure with putting that kind of milage on a brand new car, for tens of thousands more dollars in financing, I'd probably not get more than 2 or 3 extra years out of it.

If you buy used cars, do it with the basic criteria I use, and look up maintenance and reliability reviews on whatever you're considering. If you think a vehicle might give you several years of no-car-payment without significant maintenance and repair costs, go for it and pay yourself a monthly car payment into savings for as long as you own it. Five or 10 years later, when it goes belly up, you'll be in a good position to buy another.
 
Is the warranty from the dealer himself or an outside company good at a repair shop of your choice? If its from the dealer I'm betting he would just charge double retail to fix whatever happens and then pay his "half" from that. I'm in the car business, there is no way I would buy a BMW or Mercedes for that matter at any price. They are not made like they use to be. Stick with the imports, even Hyundai, as long as its had regular service with the proper oil filters.
 
I’d buy a Honda.

Today I drive a 2007 Lexus LS460 that I bought used. However, when the door switch went bad on the drivers side it was expensive, and when the trunk latch release went bad it was expensive, and when an engine sensor went bad it was replaced under warranty (thankfully, that was an $8,500 ticket). I keep thinking about replacing it, but it is a great car and shows no signs of stopping any time soon. Repairs and service do probably run $2,000 a year including brakes and tires.
 
Never had a Beemer diesel, but did have a couple of VW burners. I loved to drive them, tinker with them and learned to replace the blown turbo hose in fifteen minutes.

They are not the ride for somebody who does not want to or know how to fix and tinker. There is a lot of frequent maintenance and minor repair involved. As somebody else said, BMW parts are unGodly expensive.
 
All make good points!

That said, if you got a good deal on the car and can afford to pay cash as you've stated.

You don't really have much to "lose" by buying it and seeing how you like it!

As long as you didn't overpay, you can probably sell and at least break even.

Any small loss can be looked at as "renting" the darn thing for a few months.
 
if you have the time and inclination - buying and reselling can keep you without a payment - its what i did all through young/college years but its a little harder these days since everybody looking to make money off someone is on craigslist trying to beat you to any potential deals out there. id buy a honda, drive it two years, sell it for what i had in it or a couple hundered more, and buy another and sell the next time a deal came along.

i personally dont think the quality of toyota and honda is what it used to be, time will tell i guess - but i never buy anything even close to being new - the values vs expense vs depreciation just doesnt justify it. i get ribbed about it all the time buti dont need the debt or the status of something new. so while coworkers spend more in a year on a vehicle than ive spent in almost a decade - ive taken that money and invested it in items that make money in the long instead of losing it.

ive only had one vehicle where it didnt pay off and thats the dodge needing a transmission sitting in my driveway. (even so, it only has 125k on it, so a rebuild wouldnt be a horrible investment at this point.)
 
Last edited:
I am a big fan of used German cars. I have has a 1998 Audi A8, 1990 Mercedes 560 SEC, 2006 VW GTI and a 2008 Audi A8L. I have also had a Volvo 940 and a 760 Turbo station wagon. I still have the GTI and the 2008 A8L. I disagree that owning a nice German car is all about status. That is like saying that a person who buys a Wilson Combat 1911 or other high end pistol is only about "status". That is simply not the case IMHO. There are performance and yes luxury reasons for purchasing these types of cars.

First if you are looking at a particular model look for a forum for that car make. Look on that forum for the sub-section for your car of interest and its generation sub forum. Most of the time they have a buyers guide which will list all of the common failure points on a particular model. For example on an D3 Audi A8L you need look at the air suspension, upper control arms, truck motor, air bag sensors, parking break etc... Know where the problem spots are going in. If they have not been addresses chances are you will be addressing them at some point.

The way I buy them is to look for a single owner car that was leased or purchase and driven for 3-5 years. Look for cars which are 1 owner lease for 3 years then purchased by the same owner under a CPO program. If I am looking for a VW I search Audi dealers. If I am looking for a Audi I look at Porsche, Maseratti and super high end car dealers. They often get the most cherry trade ins because the people trading in there are stepping up to $100K cars and if they can afford the 100K car they did the maintenance on the last one often at the dealer. The problem with a lot of the used German cars in the market are that people do not understand how much the regular maintenance will be on these cars. Oil change are not $24.99 specials they are $50 to $300 depending on the model. In the early stages of ownership warranty mandates dealer service so cars still under warranty are the best bets. CPO are the next best bet. After they are out of warranty people start to skimp on the maintenance.

Make sure that the car was dealer serviced if at all possible. You can pull a Carfax and see dealer service. Typically the leased cars are best because they are serviced at the dealer. Then get the Vin and call the dealer listed on the Carfax. Tell them you are looking to purchase said car and then ask for the service records. Some dealers will give them to you other will not. If they won't then at least ask the service writer to look and it over and see if there are any odd repairs or things out of the ordinary. Ask about the trouble spots. Have they had issues? Most of the time you can get the info you need. From there you can assess the car's current condition vs what it might need.

Those who pointed out the electrical issues with German cars are 100% spot on. That diesel engine will last for 300K but the windows won't work, every dash warning light on the car will be on, your keyless entry might not work, you seats won't move etc... The German cars are a bit over engineered at times and those electrical things go long before the engine itself goes. With a 2003 I think you are pushing it a bit because it has most likely had more than 1 owner. It most likely has not been dealer serviced for a long time and most likely has no records. My advice would be to take it to a local indy mechanic who specializes in BMWs and have the look it over. Buying one of these cars without and good inspection is a huge gamble. If you are not going to do the work yourself, because there will be work, make sure you have a good local indy mechanic. They will save your ass vs the dealer. I like ones that will use parts you source from people like ECS Tuning in Oh. They have a great mix of proven aftermarket parts and factory parts for German cars.

Even if you are not going to do the work yourself invest in a good scanner specific to the brand. For VW an Audi I use a Vagcom which will allow you to read all the codes. Reset lights and do diagnostics just like the dealer. I don't do my own work but by having the Vagcom I can turn off intermittent gremlins that pop up. As the car ages those lights will pop on. If you have the right scanner you run the scanner and then post the code on a BMW board and people will tell you if it is minor and can simply be reset or it needs to be addresses. As they age more and more of the issues that cause the lights to come on are electrical issues and are not serious but intermittent annoyances. Also anytime I bring it into the shop I know what system is failing.

At about 12-15 years of age is when I dump them. The cost of maintenance starts to outweigh the value of the car and I basically rinse and repeat the process. This car is right on that line and I would be weary unless you can get rock solid documentation on service. As for the warranty it is only as good as the company underwriting it. I have had mixed results with them. Even a good one is a gamble. It is betting something is going to fail. I have done it in the past but these days I take the $$$$ that I would have paid for the warranty and put it in a savings account for the car and basically self finance a warranty myself.

As a point of reference I bought my Audi A8L with 64,000 on the clock. I have had it for over 5 years. With 3 sets of tires, brake job, oil changes, parking break repair, air suspension, upper control arms, plugs, headlight bulb changes etc... I have put out about $7,000 in maintenance over 5 years. That is not cheap but the car is in excellent shape and should run well for another 3-5 years for me if I want it to.

To me this car is a risk unless you have $1,500 to $2,000 cash to address any issues that come up. A minor issue can easily become a $1,000 repair. With German cars my experience is to pay for the best condition car you can upfront because if you don't you end up paying more on the back end.
 
Last edited:
I am a big fan of used German cars. I have has a 1998 Audi A8, 1990 Mercedes 560 SEC, 2006 VW GTI and a 2008 Audi A8L. I have also had a Volvo 940 and a 760 Turbo station wagon. I still have the GTI and the 2008 A8L. I disagree that owning a nice German car is all about status. That is like saying that a person who buys a Wilson Combat 1911 or other high end pistol is only about "status". That is simply not the case IMHO. There are performance and yes luxury reasons for purchasing these types of cars.

First if you are looking at a particular model look for a forum for that car make. Look on that forum for the sub-section for your car of interest and its generation sub forum. Most of the time they have a buyers guide which will list all of the common failure points on a particular model. For example on an D3 Audi A8L you need look at the air suspension, upper control arms, truck motor, air bag sensors, parking break etc... Know where the problem spots are going in. If they have not been addresses chances are you will be addressing them at some point.

The way I buy them is to look for a single owner car that was leased or purchase and driven for 3-5 years. Look for cars which are 1 owner lease for 3 years then purchased by the same owner under a CPO program. If I am looking for a VW I search Audi dealers. If I am looking for a Audi I look at Porsche, Maseratti and super high end car dealers. They often get the most cherry trade ins because the people trading in there are stepping up to $100K cars and if they can afford the 100K car they did the maintenance on the last one often at the dealer. The problem with a lot of the used German cars in the market are that people do not understand how much the regular maintenance will be on these cars. Oil change are not $24.99 specials they are $50 to $300 depending on the model. In the early stages of ownership warranty mandates dealer service so cars still under warranty are the best bets. CPO are the next best bet.

Make sure that the car was dealer serviced if at all possible. You can pull a Carfax and see dealer service. Typically the leased cars are best because they are serviced at the dealer. Then get the Vin and call the dealer listed on the Carfax. Tell them you are looking to purchase said car and then ask for the service records. Some dealers will give them to you other will not. If they won't then at least ask the service writer to look and it over and see if there are any odd repairs or things out of the ordinary. Ask about the trouble spots. Have they had issues? Most of the time you can get the info you need. From there you can assess the car's current condition vs what it might need.

Those who pointed out the electrical issues with German cars are 100% spot on. That diesel engine will last for 300K but the windows won't work, every dash warning light on the car will be on, your keyless entry might not work, you seats won't move etc... The German cars are a bit over engineered at times and those electrical things go long before the engine itself goes. With a 2003 I think you are pushing it a bit because it has most likely had more than 1 owner. It most likely has not been dealer serviced for a long time and most likely has no records. My advice would be to take it to a local indy mechanic who specializes in BMWs and have the look it over. Buying one of these cars without and good inspection is a huge gamble. If you are not going to do the work yourself, because there will be work, make sure you have a good local indy mechanic. They will save your ass vs the dealer. I like ones that will use parts you source from people like ECS Tuning in Oh. They have a great mix of proven aftermarket parts and factory parts for German cars.

Even if you are not going to do the work yourself invest in a good scanner specific to the brand. For VW an Audi I use a Vagcom which will allow you to read all the codes. Reset lights and do diagnostics just like the dealer. I don't do my own work but by having the Vagcom I can turn off intermittent gremlins that pop up. As the car ages those lights will pop on. If you have the right scanner you run the scanner and then post the code on a BMW board and people will tell you if it is minor and can simply be reset or it needs to be addresses. As they age more and more of the issues that cause the lights to come on are electrical issues and are not serious but intermittent annoyances. Also anytime I bring it into the shop I know what system is failing.

At about 12-15 years of age is when I dump them. The cost of maintenance starts to outweigh the value of the car and I basically rinse and repeat the process. This car is right on that line and I would be weary unless you can get rock solid documentation on service. As for the warranty it is only as good as the company underwriting it. I have had mixed results with them. Even a good one is a gamble. It is betting something is going to fail. I have done it in the past but these days I take the $$$$ that I would have paid for the warranty and put it in a savings account for the car and basically self finance a warranty myself.

To me this car is a risk unless you have $1,500 to $2,000 cash to address any issues that come up. A minor issue can easily become a $1,000 repair. With German cars my experience is to pay for the best condition car you can upfront because if you don't you end up paying more on the back end.
comments about electrical issues made me laugh out loud
 
Sorry, no way I would buy a used BMW. They will nickel and dime you to death. We lease one for my wife every 3 years. That's the way to do it. My mom has a 11 or 12 year old Lexus 400 and she is forever paying the dealership to fix something. She doesn't put miles on a car at all. I told her to lease but she has a harder head than me. My best bud bought a used BMW Z3 or Z4 M. 3 years old when he bought it. Got it for a great price. He called me B4 buying and I told him the same thing that it would break him up keeping it running. It did but he had a ball with it while he was alive. Gone too soon. RIP Mike. I got to drive it once and was lucky enuff to come up behind a 540 and blow all 4 doors off. 3rd gear went forever.
 
Sorry, no way I would buy a used BMW. They will nickel and dime you to death. We lease one for my wife every 3 years. That's the way to do it. My mom has a 11 or 12 year old Lexus 400 and she is forever paying the dealership to fix something. She v put miles on a car at all. I told her to lease but she has a harder head than me. My best bud bought a used BMW Z3 or Z4 M. 3 years old when he bought it. Got it for a great price. He called me B4 buying and I told him the same thing that it would break him up keeping it running. It did but he had a ball with it while he was alive. Gone too soon. RIP Mike. I got to drive it once and was lucky enuff to come up behind a 540 and blow all 4 doors off. 3rd gear went forever.

A best friend had one of the last M3 V8s. He traded it in on this. 0-60 in about 3 seconds.

4G4fB5d.jpg
 
Unfortunately I am in the land of German autos, and Toyota and Honda do not really exist here.

I considered getting a less used VW, but they're all Euro spec and unable to be imported to the US when I come home. If I had to offload it in a hurry, I may be out a lot of cash. Idk how it would play out.

My options are very limited.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I had a 06 325I that was a great car. Parts are hard to get but they are really great drivers. I dont want another one unless it's a E30 series. Those are easy to work on. I like fords with push rods, they are easily fixed parts are everywhere and if you look you can find something nice for a good price. I saw a 71 galaxie for 3k with a 351 Windsor in it. The car was in great shape.

You're in Germany? Get a opel.
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately I am in the land of German autos, and Toyota and Honda do not really exist here.

I considered getting a less used VW, but they're all Euro spec and unable to be imported to the US when I come home. If I had to offload it in a hurry, I may be out a lot of cash. Idk how it would play out.

My options are very limited.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Still going to be pricey but at least you there they are more "standard" cars vs luxury.
 
I’d buy a Honda.

Today I drive a 2007 Lexus LS460 that I bought used. However, when the door switch went bad on the drivers side it was expensive, and when the trunk latch release went bad it was expensive, and when an engine sensor went bad it was replaced under warranty (thankfully, that was an $8,500 ticket). I keep thinking about replacing it, but it is a great car and shows no signs of stopping any time soon. Repairs and service do probably run $2,000 a year including brakes and tires.
You do know that your car is really a Toyota with a "L" badge on it and some plush leather. Should be a great car!

DS

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
I had a 06 325I that was a great car. Parts are hard to get but they are really great drivers. I dont want another one unless it's a E30 series. Those are easy to work on. I like fords with push rods, they are easily fixed parts are everywhere and if you look you can find something nice for a good price. I saw a 71 galaxie for 3k with a 351 Windsor in it. The car was in great shape.

You're in Germany? Get a opel.
Ha! I looked at those too. Some pretty cool options, but most in my price range are too small. I've seen some nice wagons but haven't found any used deals on them. It's all Audi, BMW, and Volvo for the most part.

I did come across a Peugot wagon that seemed well cared for at about half the price of the BMW, but IDK how their safety is. My wife will be driving this mostly which is why I'm most concerned. I will probably just bike most places, including work.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Diesel with 120k, it's just getting broke in good.

I bought a 2000 diesel Jetta a couple of years ago with 230k, and have had zero issues. Mileage is great (45 city/58 highway), love the torque of a diesel when driving in the mountains.
 
Unfortunately I am in the land of German autos, and Toyota and Honda do not really exist here.

I considered getting a less used VW, but they're all Euro spec and unable to be imported to the US when I come home. If I had to offload it in a hurry, I may be out a lot of cash. Idk how it would play out.

My options are very limited.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
It had not entered my mind that you are 'over there'. That's a whole new ballgame. VW makes a whole slew of really desirable cars not available in the colonies. There are many, many enthusiast clubs that will help you with learning and maintenance. You may want to defer your decision if you can get on with some of those clubs to see what is what locally. You may find a great deal on a well-maintained car from a club member. And, sorry to say, bringing them back to the USA isn't going to happen unless you can somehow wangle diplomatic plates.
 
Is the warranty from the dealer himself or an outside company good at a repair shop of your choice? If its from the dealer I'm betting he would just charge double retail to fix whatever happens and then pay his "half" from that. I'm in the car business, there is no way I would buy a BMW or Mercedes for that matter at any price. They are not made like they use to be. Stick with the imports, even Hyundai, as long as its had regular service with the proper oil filters.
It is only through them as you say ,but their prices seem pretty reasonable.

I considered getting a new water pump, thermosta, and flush and fill antifreeze and they quoted €225 for the job.

Again, it's all based on a history report. This may have been done already.



Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
You do know that your car is really a Toyota with a "L" badge on it and some plush leather. Should be a great car!

DS

Kinda, but as Lexus is the flagship brand I’d like to think that a Toyota is really a Lexus built to a price point. Either way, great car and I got it for about 40% of new price at 3 years old with 25k on the odometer, just happened to be there the day after a little old lady turned it in. And don’t knock air conditioned seating until you’ve tried it!

One thing I hate is the nav system. Don’t use it anymore so it doesn’t matter, but it used to bug me that you couldn’t do anything while moving. Really, get an address in while stopped and can’t hit enter if you start to roll forward. I know that it’s a safety feature, but I should be able to disable it if I choose.
 
Suzuki? The company I worked with in Germany switched to ford station wagons from BMW. What part of Germany are you in?
 
Last edited:
So here's my dilemma now...

There are no service records on the vehicle. I had the service mgr take a look at the:

Water pump/thermo
Transmission (for fluid purposes)
Gaskets/seals

According to him, nothing needed serviced, but they do offer to change the water pump/thermostat and do a coolant flush and new coolant for €225. - service mgr said the trans didn't show any signs of lurching or any issues.

Trans fluid in these are a closed system, and BMW says it is a lifetime fluid, but they don't define lifetime. Replacing the trans fluid and filters would be another €250.

No leaks from any seals.

Do I take the gamble that this maintenance has possibly been done already and hope for the best, or invest in the services? - The prices seem very reasonable, but I don't want to do it just to do it.

With things like this there are really never problems until there is a problem, so it's hard to say one way or the other.

The dealer accepts VAT forms, so I'd be getting a 19% discount on the prices.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You might as well buy it. It seems like it is what you want. Any used car is a gamble. Luxury used cars can be an expensive gamble. You pay your money and take your chances.
 
You might as well buy it. It seems like it is what you want. Any used car is a gamble. Luxury used cars can be an expensive gamble. You pay your money and take your chances.
What I want would be a VW Passat wagon with 50k or so within my budget, but I'm just not having any luck. It's either get this car and possibly be in for repairs, or buy something newer out of my budget with a monthly payment.

If I shipped my car from the states, it wouldn't be here for a fair bit, and I still have equity in it to sell now. So IDK. I think getting it is my best option right now.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
Is it German cuck porn or just cuck porn in Germany?

Buy the dang thing already I think it sounds like a good deal and no payments.
 
Have them change the water pump and fluids.
Alpina makes some nice replacement parts if you need anything.
 
So here's my dilemma now...

There are no service records on the vehicle. I had the service mgr take a look at the:

Water pump/thermo
Transmission (for fluid purposes)
Gaskets/seals

According to him, nothing needed serviced, but they do offer to change the water pump/thermostat and do a coolant flush and new coolant for €225. - service mgr said the trans didn't show any signs of lurching or any issues.

Trans fluid in these are a closed system, and BMW says it is a lifetime fluid, but they don't define lifetime. Replacing the trans fluid and filters would be another €250.

No leaks from any seals.

Do I take the gamble that this maintenance has possibly been done already and hope for the best, or invest in the services? - The prices seem very reasonable, but I don't want to do it just to do it.

With things like this there are really never problems until there is a problem, so it's hard to say one way or the other.

The dealer accepts VAT forms, so I'd be getting a 19% discount on the prices.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

If you like the car go for it. It sucks it has no records.

The water pump unless the car is showing issues over heating I would pass for now but if it gives you piece of mind go for it. The "lifetime" transmission fluid is a quandary that is often discussed on German car forums. Many of them have sealed systems that are not supposed to be changed. Many people who bought the cars with low mileage or new will swap it out at regular intervals. Which I think makes some sense. However there are tons to documented times were people bought used cars with unknown transmission service historys and flush them only to have the transmissions fail quickly after the flush. Many people right or wrong theorize that once the fluid and the system reach a certain age they are work in a symbiotic relationship and when people flush them under pressure deposits are removed and further cleaned by new detergent agents in the new fluids and which end up choking not cleaning the transmission.

I think there is some truth to that but I also think a lot of people change the fluid because the car is not shifting well and is already headed down hill and the fluid change just speeds up the process. I have gone both ways. I flushed my 1998 A8L but have chosen not to clear my 2008. For me the reason I did it to the 1998 A8 is that that particular tiptronic transmission was a known failure point on the car and either way a lot of people ended up replacing transmissions. I was lucky and never did. If the car is not shifting roughly I would leave it alone.

I would also have them check the suspension. Have them look at the Front control arms IIRC they are a maintance/failure part. Just remember that even if you do not have a major parts or system failure regular maintenance like oil changes, air filters, spark plugs, brakes pads & rotors, tires, coolant etc... are all going to cost you more than most cars. Be prepared, plan and at least self insure to cover the costs because there will be costs even if you are buying a pristine car.
 
Back
Top Bottom