Reloading help (Iredell county area)?

ENTERKO

ENTERKO

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Hello all,

I am new to reloading, and have read through my reloading manual as well as many online references. However, I still do not feel completely comfortable with case preparation. I have all of the necessary tools to start loading 30-06 (press, FL sizing die, case trimmer, de-burring tools, powder measurer, scale, case turning spindle, micrometer, gauges, case lube, etc etc.)

Would anyone be willing to guide me through their process for case preparation. Better yet, (I know it's a long shot) but I would be open to someone reviewing my current setup to make sure I am not leaving something out or letting me drop by their place to see how it's done in person? I can compensate for time/gas money, haha. I have been agonizing over the details, and some hands on guidance is what I feel that I need to be confident.
 
Don't overthink it. Get the basics from a good reloading manual, and load 2 or 3 dummy rounds (no primers or powder). See if they chamber in your gun. If there is a problem with your brass prep, it will show up with the dummy rounds. Adding primers and powder are relatively easy after that.

Once you get the basics down, then you can start playing with shoulder bump, turning necks, etc.
 
Take your time, read the manual on how to adjust your dies, load a few dummy rounds and slowly move forward.

I would say once you get to loading love rounds I would not load more then 5 or 10. Take those to the range and see how they do. Not working up a dope sheet or anything, just make sure they function correctly. If they work well, load a few more and if they don’t then make some adjustments. You can always ask here for advice on adjustments.

Take your time. Stay within published data from a reliable source. Google is not your friend for load data. Use a manual or a manufacturers website, most powder and bullet makers will offer load data on their website.

When I first started loading the first few rounds were huge confidence boosters. I remember thinking I was a bad ass when I loaded up 100rds of 45 for the first time.

Take your time, enjoy the process and the learning, it’s a hobby in its own.


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This is easy to do. I learned at about 12 years old by watching my father.

I started on my own equipment at 24 years old.

Watch for signs of pressure. Sometimes data can be wrong. Case in point. I was loading for a Ruger Super Blackhawk in 44 mag. I was using Unique powder and CCI standard LG pistol primers. My loads were on the lower side for the bullet I was using. After shooting 3 rounds I dumped the remaining 9 in a trash can. The pressures were so high that it was piercing the primer and they were flat.

Most if not all of my reloads are on the conservative side. No need to see how fast a bullet can be pushed. Why destroy a gun?

As I have gotton older accuracy is the name of the game.

Keep good records of you loads.
435a21ba041f0621809a39aef4d5c21e.jpg


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I had the same experience with a 44mag as @Grits I was using an older loading manual with Hercules (now Alliant) 2400. The manual showed a mid range pressure load was almost 2g over the max that listed on their website. I fired 6 rounds and had to hammer the brass out, they’d all split.
I now always check the powder and bullet mfg website along with the manual when working up a load now.

Good call on your part to ask for assistance getting started. Take it easy and enjoy the process!
 
Always try to get load data from multiple sources. Most (if not all) powder manufacturers have data online. Bullet manufacturers like to sell you a manual for their data, but Speer now has theirs online. I have 7 or 8 load manuals now that I try to reference. Most of the time, the load data will overlap, but sometimes the min charge from one source will be over max from another source. I err on the side of caution and start low, work up.

You can always ask for advice here, but take any advice from a forum with a grain of salt. :)
 
I appreciate all the advise, I'm glad to hear the encouragement from seasoned reloaders here on this forum willing to help out a newcomer.

A member who lives nearby actually reached out to me and is going to drop by my house. Thanks again @OldNascar . I look forward to learning as much as I can!
 
Toprudder said:
Always try to get load data from multiple sources. Most (if not all) powder manufacturers have data online. Bullet manufacturers like to sell you a manual for their data, but Speer now has theirs online. I have 7 or 8 load manuals now that I try to reference. Most of the time, the load data will overlap, but sometimes the min charge from one source will be over max from another source. I err on the side of caution and start low, work up.

You can always ask for advice here, but take any advice from a forum with a grain of salt. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks! I checked my Nosler manual version 8 for 180 grain 30-06 loads against the Speer online data. It lists different starting charges for IMR 4350 and R17. In fact R17 starts at 51.0 grains in the Nosler, and 49.0 in the Speer data.
 
ENTERKO said:
Thanks! I checked my Nosler manual version 8 for 180 grain 30-06 loads against the Speer online data. It lists different starting charges for IMR 4350 and R17. In fact R17 starts at 51.0 grains in the Nosler, and 49.0 in the Speer data.
Click to expand...
Not unusual - different bullets. If the data lists the actual bullet you are using (manufacturer, not just weight) then I would lean towards that data.
 
ENTERKO said:
I appreciate all the advise, I'm glad to hear the encouragement from seasoned reloaders here on this forum willing to help out a newcomer.

A member who lives nearby actually reached out to me and is going to drop by my house. Thanks again @OldNascar . I look forward to learning as much as I can!
Click to expand...

This is what makes this place great. Folks helping others folks. I would bet other would help if they were just a bit closer to you.

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ENTERKO said:
Hello all,

I am new to reloading, and have read through my reloading manual as well as many online references. However, I still do not feel completely comfortable with case preparation. I have all of the necessary tools to start loading 30-06 (press, FL sizing die, case trimmer, de-burring tools, powder measurer, scale, case turning spindle, micrometer, gauges, case lube, etc etc.)

Would anyone be willing to guide me through their process for case preparation. Better yet, (I know it's a long shot) but I would be open to someone reviewing my current setup to make sure I am not leaving something out or letting me drop by their place to see how it's done in person? I can compensate for time/gas money, haha. I have been agonizing over the details, and some hands on guidance is what I feel that I need to be confident.
Click to expand...

Why FL sizing dies? Not really needed for a bolt gun.

Case prep isn't rocket science. For best accuracy, be consistent in what you're doing, it will make load development much easier.

One other comment from somebody who's been reloading for over 40yrs, DO NOT get caught up in the "More Power" game. Look for best accuracy and you'll find it's most often at about the 50-60% range of the load data. Your rifling twist will also affect how well your gun will stabilize any particular bullet at a given distance. Welcome to the addiction, you won't save any money, but you will shoot a lot more!
 
Dave951 said:
Why FL sizing dies? Not really needed for a bolt gun.

Case prep isn't rocket science. For best accuracy, be consistent in what you're doing, it will make load development much easier.

One other comment from somebody who's been reloading for over 40yrs, DO NOT get caught up in the "More Power" game. Look for best accuracy and you'll find it's most often at about the 50-60% range of the load data. Your rifling twist will also affect how well your gun will stabilize any particular bullet at a given distance. Welcome to the addiction, you won't save any money, but you will shoot a lot more!
Click to expand...

My plan is to use the FL sizing die to bump back the shoulder approximately .002” on my fired cases. I’ve heard that this can be done by adjusting the FL sizing die such that it is only moving the shoulder and not the entirely sizing the case body. Of course proper measuring tools are required to confirm this, which I have purchased already. To be honest, this is one of my major questions. Theoretically I understand the process, but want to confirm with someone at has experience or has done similar. My goal is to produce accurate hunting rounds capable of 400 yard accuracy. Speed isn’t a huge requirement for me, since I’ll only be hunting white tails (for now).
 
You should look at a neck sizing die for this purpose. You "can" do it with FL, just easier the other way.

To add another fly in the ointment, COAL is only for function of the round in a particular action. To get the max accuracy, you have to make a consistent measurement based on the ogive radius. Check out Sinclair International (part of Brownells) for tools to do this. Another thing to look at is lateral runout, basically how straight is your bullet in the case. You might also want to invest in a match grade bullet seating die like Redding or similar micrometer die. They will allow you to seat the bullet so that it is the optimum distance to the lands for your gun.

Since you're new to reloading, focus first on the process of making safe ammunition to get the process down. Then start down the rabbit hole for accuracy.
 
Dave951 said:
You should look at a neck sizing die for this purpose. You "can" do it with FL, just easier the other way.

To add another fly in the ointment, COAL is only for function of the round in a particular action. To get the max accuracy, you have to make a consistent measurement based on the ogive radius. Check out Sinclair International (part of Brownells) for tools to do this. Another thing to look at is lateral runout, basically how straight is your bullet in the case. You might also want to invest in a match grade bullet seating die like Redding or similar micrometer die. They will allow you to seat the bullet so that it is the optimum distance to the lands for your gun.

Since you're new to reloading, focus first on the process of making safe ammunition to get the process down. Then start down the rabbit hole for accuracy.
Click to expand...

Preciate it. I have the Sinclair tool, and I agree with you about base to ogive. I’m going to start with them seated 15 thousandths off the lands and work up and down from there to see where I get the best results results. Then I plan to play with changing the powder charges.
 
ENTERKO said:
Got it. Maybe start at 10? Where do you suggest to start?
Click to expand...
After using the tools, and verifying with a smoked bullet, I'd start at 0.010" and work my way down for the purpose of accuracy. Some bullets like the Berger VLD like a long jump.

I and many top long distance shooters agree with the FL resize, bumping the shoulder 0.001-0.002".
I was only neck sizing for my bolt 7-08, after a couple firings it took force to close the bolt and extract a case. My neck sizing dies now collect dust.
I use these tools:
Case length:
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...spx?avs|Manufacturer_1=SINCLAIR+INTERNATIONAL

Seating Depth:
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...-bump-gage-body-sku749002552-34014-66325.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-seating-depth-tools/index.htm?avs%7cManufacturer_1=SINCLAIR%2bINTERNATIONAL
 
Toprudder said:
If using brass shot from another gun, a FL die is the only way to go.
Click to expand...

If it's from his gun, it don't matter. If it's virgin brass, ditto, once fired in his gun, it's already fire formed. I only FL resize for semi auto and then with small base dies.
 
Dave951 said:
If it's from his gun, it don't matter. If it's virgin brass, ditto, once fired in his gun, it's already fire formed. I only FL resize for semi auto and then with small base dies.
Click to expand...
For me that worked great for a few rounds, then they wouldn’t chamber without force.
If you want to get really rifle specific, Forster will make a FL die that matches your rifle.
 
I was able to take a few relative measurements using the Hornady buller comparator tool so that I could get an idea of distance to lands. I measured three different bullet choices (EDL-X 180 grain, Nosler Accubond 180 and Sierra Game King HPBT 165gr)

I also used the Sinclair shoulder insert to measure from base to shoulder, so that I could get a base line before bumping some back. I ended up not having enough fired cases to feel comfortable. Also, since the fired cases were Winchester, and I bought new Hornady brass to work up the load, the numbers aren't very useful. I used it more as an experiment than something I would use in the future. I assume that Winchester brass is going to have a different brass thickness than the Horndady's that I will use to work up a load. Anyway, I figured I would share some pics of my setup for anyone else interested in something similar.

Thanks again for the advise.

bench1.jpg
 
ENTERKO said:
I was able to take a few relative measurements using the Hornady buller comparator tool so that I could get an idea of distance to lands. I measured three different bullet choices (EDL-X 180 grain, Nosler Accubond 180 and Sierra Game King HPBT 165gr)

I also used the Sinclair shoulder insert to measure from base to shoulder, so that I could get a base line before bumping some back. I ended up not having enough fired cases to feel comfortable. Also, since the fired cases were Winchester, and I bought new Hornady brass to work up the load, the numbers aren't very useful. I used it more as an experiment than something I would use in the future. I assume that Winchester brass is going to have a different brass thickness than the Horndady's that I will use to work up a load. Anyway, I figured I would share some pics of my setup for anyone else interested in something similar.

Thanks again for the advise.

View attachment 184898
Click to expand...
From what I see, you’re paying attention to details that 90% don’t.
You should be on track to impressive results quickly.
 
Thanks for all the help, especially @OldNascar for dropping by Sunday morning.

I loaded up some test rounds this weekend. I chose to load 4 different bullet choices, so that I could a sense for how this rifle responds. I decided to go with 6 rounds each, so that I could run two sets of 3 round groups.

ELD-X (178gr): 0.009" from the lands x 6 rounds
ELD-X (178gr): 0.005" from the lands x 6 rounds

Sierra BTHP (165gr): 0.009" from the lands x 6 rounds
Sierra BTHP (165gr): 0.005" from the lands x 6 rounds

Nosler Accubond (180gr): 0.009" from the lands x 6 rounds
Nosler Accubond (180gr): 0.005" from the lands x 6 rounds

Hornady Interlock BTSP (180gr): 0.009" from the lands x 6 round
Hornady Interlock BTSP (180gr): 0.005" from the lands x 6 rounds

All were loaded with 53.0 grains of H4350. This falls on lower side of 165 and 180 grain bullets, so I should be on the safe side.
riflebullets2.jpg
 
Maybe I missed something , but the first question is whats the car battery for on the reloading bench? LOL
Also, i'm not real far from you so feel free to come by or give me a shout anytime.
Mark 980-332-9066
 
scratchmark said:
Maybe I missed something , but the first question is whats the car battery for on the reloading bench? LOL
Also, i'm not real far from you so feel free to come by or give me a shout anytime.
Mark 980-332-9066
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark. The batteries are from my boat. I take them out in the winter to keep them on a trickle charger.

Question for you: Do you shoot long range in the area?
 
i'd like to but don't have anywhere to shoot over 100yrds. Also, I load for hunting more than anything but that's not to say that I disregard accuracy either. I don't like to chase wounded or lost deer due to poor accuracy. I used the 280 this year and dropped 4 deer in their tracks ranging from 20yrds to 153yrds at PEEDEE.
 
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