Running a car without oil...

New events of the day:
1. service advisor agreed to call me with codes before he left for the day. He calls me from the car on his way home, doesn’t know the codes, but it’s misfiring again, he doesn’t know which side or cylinders. I thanked him, he can’t help it that he’s no too capable, and even if he could there is no point yelling at him. The two service managers are going to talk and get back to me on Monday about what really has been done, ie I understood him to say cams on both sides but it looks like they didn’t do either, just the gears that control the variable timing, why just one head gasket, and what are the notes about the crankshaft and did they tear it down far enough to inspect the crankshaft.

2. Daughter states that she always watches the temp, and it never went up while the car was running without the oil drain plug...I think that’s good.

3. I’m forgetting something, will edit.
FYI, its not a head gasket on your repair ticket. Its a valve cover gasket, Toyota calles it a gasket, cylinder head cover.

The repair parts list reads like just one valve cover came off and the timing chain cover.
The numbers with dashes = part numbers. Numbers without dashes = labor operation time for billing purposes .
 
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FYI, its not a head gasket on your repair ticket. Its a valve cover gasket, Toyota calles it a gasket, cylinder head cover.

The repair parts list reads like just one valve cover came off and the timing chain cover.
The numbers with dashes = part numbers. Numbers without dashes = labor operation time for billing purposes .
The big problem I have is that I can’t picture the parts, have never looked at this engine, in fact haven’t looked at any engine seriously in 30 years, and they’ve changed just a bit.

I had assumed that the 2 sets of gears they replaced were for the left and right, but that would have required pulling the left hand valve cover, so can you tell me what the second set was? I’m going to call them today and get a status, might try to find the regional manager for toyota.
 
The big problem I have is that I can’t picture the parts, have never looked at this engine, in fact haven’t looked at any engine seriously in 30 years, and they’ve changed just a bit.

I had assumed that the 2 sets of gears they replaced were for the left and right, but that would have required pulling the left hand valve cover, so can you tell me what the second set was? I’m going to call them today and get a status, might try to find the regional manager for toyota.
Well, I just looked it up. I bet the tech did NOT remove the front cover, simply because there is no eng coolant billed, not water pump gasket or seals, NO oil. No way that job is being done and zero coolant get in the oil system. I dont blame hime one bit for “short cuts”. Thats the name of the game is to beat the “time”. However, comebacks kill that
 
I recently had a truck the oil pump went out on. It never got into the red on the gauge but it was borderline. Driver drove it back to the shop and in that short time it burnt up the cam bearings. I didn’t realize it until I replaced the bad oil pump and put the truck back on the road and the problem came right back. New engine with a Cummins factory pump and it’s all good. I believe you’re going to be in the same boat, they can patch and throw parts at it. But at the end of the day a new engine is the only fix.
 
Daughter states that she always watches the temp, and it never went up while the car was running without the oil drain plug...I think that’s good.
When you posted the OP, I did a search for information on running an engine without oil. One of the top hits was a short video demonstrating what happened when this was done to a small engine. Basically, the end result was as like others have said, wear shown as grooves in the cam shaft and bits of metal in the oil. However, one interesting thing that they didn't expect is that for the most part the (air cooled) engine ran at the same temperature or even slightly cooler than when it had oil in it which they attributed to the oil acting as a heat sink.
 
I haven't looked at all the postings here, so if I'm reiterating something covered before...forgive me.

If you ran an engine without oil, it either reached a point where damaged was caused, or it did not.

Oil does several things....it lubricates, it cools, it keeps contaminants in solution to be removed by filters and routine oil changes, it prevents corrosion, it keeps gaskets in good condition. Probably a couple other things, but those are the biggies.

"Lubrication" isn't just "making things slippery". When your engine is running, all those moving metal parts with all those tight tolerances are actually riding on a thin film of oil. They're not actually touching each other. This is why it's said that an engine sustains most of its wear and tear during start up. Especially if a vehicle has been inoperative for quite a while. When your engine first starts up, there's a brief time where it's only depending on the residual thin layer of oil adhering to all the metal parts for lubrication, before your oil pump gets pressure up and oil starts flowing again.

So the question is "did your engine lose oil flow?" A loss of oil flow is disastrous on an engine with parts moving hundreds or thousands of RPM. It doesn't take long under these conditions to go metal-to-metal somewhere. And when that happens...immediately detectable or not...the engine is damaged. The only questions at that point are "how extensive is the damage" and "how long can you live with it until something prematurely fails".

Sometimes the evidence is obvious. You've overheated the engine, you've seized the engine, you find metal flakes in the oil. Something along those lines. When this happens, you're in for an engine replacement (or rebuild at least). Anything less is merely stretching one failure out into another.

Sometimes the evidence isn't visible...but there's damage nonetheless. If you wipe a bearing, you may not see any metallic particulate in the oil because it's too small of an amount. But that damage doesn't go away...it only gets worse over time. Months and miles later, maybe a small tapping noise starts but only under certain circumstances. A year and 30,000 miles later, it's a noticeable tapping during acceleration. A couple years it's so bad that now you're afraid to drive it on a road trip.

So...you have the rod bearings changed out. But while this was happening, the oil flow conditions in your engine changed because the damaged bearing allowed more oil flow through, resulting in less oil flow somewhere else...and something else got damaged. 12 months after you had your rod bearings changed, something else starts making noise.

If you don't have clear evidence of engine damage, it's a crap shoot as to whether there's actual damage or not.

My opinion is if the engine ran out of oil (which is different than being a quart or two low), somebody owes you an engine replacement.
 
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I believe that is a quad cam engine. "dohc" on a "v" series engine means you have two heads and each head has dual over head cams.

So, two cams and two sets of gears over each head.

So, they are able to do two gears on one bank.
 
Well they have been futzing with it this week and finally got Toyota outside the dealership involved. New engine block and crankshaft are on the way. I scolded them about documenting what has been done and is being done, I want a complete record.

Next update probably next Friday, but if this brings to mind anything I should ask about please don’t be shy!
Thanks all
Jim
 
Well they have been futzing with it this week and finally got Toyota outside the dealership involved. New engine block and crankshaft are on the way. I scolded them about documenting what has been done and is being done, I want a complete record.

Next update probably next Friday, but if this brings to mind anything I should ask about please don’t be shy!
Thanks all
Jim
Im real curious as to why and how they come up with replacing the block for a misfire code. I get the no oil reason, but missfire happens in the combustion chambers and due to the cylinder head and up components. Seems to me if tbey suspects block/bottom end damage, then guaranteed cylinder head(s) damage . Be cheaper, quicker and easier for all involved to just do a complete engine swap
 
Im real curious as to why and how they come up with replacing the block for a misfire code. I get the no oil reason, but missfire happens in the combustion chambers and due to the cylinder head and up components. Seems to me if tbey suspects block/bottom end damage, then guaranteed cylinder head(s) damage . Be cheaper, quicker and easier for all involved to just do a complete engine swap
Yeah, my ignorance prevents me from asking questions that the service advisor probably can’t answer, but I wish that I knew enough anyway. He specifically said that the heads were good, but it does seem odd that the block is bad but the pistons and heads are all good. I’ll push him a little by text.
As for the engine swap, I’m still betting that they are doing this as Toyota warranty work and making money on it. For now I don’t care.
 
Im real curious as to why and how they come up with replacing the block for a misfire code. I get the no oil reason, but missfire happens in the combustion chambers and due to the cylinder head and up components. Seems to me if tbey suspects block/bottom end damage, then guaranteed cylinder head(s) damage . Be cheaper, quicker and easier for all involved to just do a complete engine swap
The heads will suffer more damage than the block, gravity will make the heads have no oil before the bottom end.
 
Just got off the phone with him. They have decided to replace everything below the heads, all brand new from Toyota. They were having compression problems on the passenger side cylinders and somehow determined that it’s the block and not the head. Tried to ask the advisor how they figured that out but he obviously didn’t know. I guess if they’re wrong then we’ll do the heads next.

Do appreciate everyone’s comments here, it helps so much to know enough to be just a little dangerous. Keep it coming and I will report back mid week!
 
Yeah, my ignorance prevents me from asking questions that the service advisor probably can’t answer, but I wish that I knew enough anyway. He specifically said that the heads were good, but it does seem odd that the block is bad but the pistons and heads are all good. I’ll push him a little by text.
As for the engine swap, I’m still betting that they are doing this as Toyota warranty work and making money on it. For now I don’t care.
Seems to me if the piston rings had time to burn up the top end would’ve been long gone.

Are they paying for a rental while this is being done? I’ve got a feeling when they put those heads on the new block the problem will reappear. I’d want the heads replaced at the minimum rebuilt.
 
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Seems to me if the piston rings had time to burn up the top end would’ve been long gone.

Are they paying for a rental while this is being done? I’ve got a feeling when they put those heads on the new block the problem will reappear. I’d want the heads replaced at the minimum rebuilt.
Yeah, if the rings/cylinder walls are worn and causes low compression, the heads are smoked. Plus I would think it would be burning oil.

Plus one on the rental, for as long as they want to play games
 
Seems to me if the piston rings had time to burn up the top end would’ve been long gone.

Are they paying for a rental while this is being done? I’ve got a feeling when they put those heads on the new block the problem will reappear. I’d want the heads replaced at the minimum rebuilt.

They are paying for the rental, so no issue there.
I’m happier with them doing everything but the heads at this point. They’ve replaced the cams and gears and now everything below the heads, if they did the heads first I’d still maybe have other issues throughout the engine, this resolves that at their cost and I’ve still got another 60k on the warranty.

At least I think I’m happy about it. Maybe dumb for them, maybe better warranty revenue from Toy for them, but ultimately seems best for me. Am I wrong!
 
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They are paying for the rental, so no issue there.
I’m happier with them doing everything but the heads at this point. They’ve replaced the cams and gears and now everything below the heads, if they did the heads first I’d still maybe have other issues throughout the engine, this resolves that at their cost and I’ve still got another 60k on the warranty.

At least I think I’m happy about it. Maybe dumb for them, maybe better warranty revenue from Toy for them, but ultimately seems best for me. Am I wrong!
I thought they did the cam and gears on the right side?? That isn't a smart decision on their part, they will be changing out the heads too before this is over.
 
If the "bottom" of the engine is so far gone as to lose compression like they say, then the "top" ain't worth squat, either.

They're wasting more time and money trying to get out of a complete engine replacement than it would cost them just to replace the engine.

The engine requires replacement. This is the way.

I have spoken.
 
The engine requires replacement.
Well it seems that I’m getting there, just one piece at a time. What’s left of the original, both heads, the gears and cam on the drivers side, then all the bolt on stuff like water pump, ac compressor, etc.

My guess is that we’ll do at least the head on the right side before this is over. Why the drivers side cam and gears and controller are fine remains a mystery, and frankly they probably aren’t, but until they are a problem I’m not inclined to raise hell about it. When they find one head bad I’ll tell them that it’s time to replace both and do the cam and gears at the same time.
 
Well it seems that I’m getting there, just one piece at a time. What’s left of the original, both heads, the gears and cam on the drivers side, then all the bolt on stuff like water pump, ac compressor, etc.

My guess is that we’ll do at least the head on the right side before this is over. Why the drivers side cam and gears and controller are fine remains a mystery, and frankly they probably aren’t, but until they are a problem I’m not inclined to raise hell about it. When they find one head bad I’ll tell them that it’s time to replace both and do the cam and gears at the same time.
It could be something as simple as the oil pump is in that side of the motor so it runs higher pressure there so that head stayed oiled up. I’ve got a Cummins engine with a port to check oil pressure on each side of the engine and it’s almost a 20psi difference. I thought it was weird and called Cummins and they said it was correct because of oil pump placement.
 
Man you are lucky you got a conscientious dealer. A buddy of mine had that happen in a truck. He didn't make it back home before all the oil drained out and the motor shut down. Their response was that they put the plug back properly and that he must have loosened it after he left.

Three attorneys later and he was paying for it himself and changing his own oil for the rest of his life.
 
Man you are lucky you got a conscientious dealer. A buddy of mine had that happen in a truck. He didn't make it back home before all the oil drained out and the motor shut down. Their response was that they put the plug back properly and that he must have loosened it after he left.

Three attorneys later and he was paying for it himself and changing his own oil for the rest of his life.
This is why I do all the work on my cars. That, and it saves me a bunch of money. Unless the job requires me to purchase a tool or equipment that would be more expensive than to just get someone with said tools or equipment to do it.
 
If the block is toast and one head is toast the other head is toast. If it’s not ruined it may be in good enough shape to get it magnafluxed, decked/planed/new valves, valve seals, and valve seats.
Sounds like they are milking this for all the warranty money they can get.
Would have been cheaper and faster to replace the complete engine in one shot.
 
They're wasting more time and money trying to get out of a complete engine replacement than it would cost them just to replace the engine.
Quoting myself from post #67 in this thread:

Why is it that instead of doing the right thing, they'll spend four times the effort and ten times the money to get away cheaply? There is a reason I won’t buy Honda vehicles and as my atty put it, my case was the first time he sued Honda. Instead owning up to a mistake, using it as a training opportunity for their staff, and having a happy customer for a loss that is likely insured they’ll just make an angry customer who will spread the word about them.
 
Got it back, again. Daughter says that it’s running well...we’ll see.
Here is the paperwork
B7D71C57-3BFF-47EB-B2B7-3149ED5E329F.jpeg
A4D8A6B6-A888-4665-9C92-7D994C53460B.jpeg
 
Quoting myself from post #67 in this thread:

Why is it that instead of doing the right thing, they'll spend four times the effort and ten times the money to get away cheaply? There is a reason I won’t buy Honda vehicles and as my atty put it, my case was the first time he sued Honda. Instead owning up to a mistake, using it as a training opportunity for their staff, and having a happy customer for a loss that is likely insured they’ll just make an angry customer who will spread the word about them.
My transmission in my'99 Taurus had codes six months after I replaced it myself with Ford Remanufactured unit, three year no mile limit warranty.
They told me they were replacing the transmission, then they told me they repaired it. $1,800 parts and labor, my cost was $0. Weird.
 
@Mike Overlay is the auto-repair business slow because of Covid and WFH? This whole process sounds like churn to me.
It has slacked off pretty heavily since the election. When folks become unsure of their incomes, expenses get cut. The auto industry is usually the first. Unless absolutely needed.

And yeah, this is definitely a churn of funds
 
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Short block replacement. *sigh*

I'm thinking the only way a short block saves time and money over a long block for the people doing the work is if they don't do ANYTHING with the heads, cams, etc. No magnafluxing, nothing to verify they're satisfactory for use. By the time you put in all the labor to remove them, magnaflux them, lap them, and whatever, you rapidly add up more money than it would to do a long block.

That short block assembly MSRP runs $3,897.67 on the Toyota Parts website.


Now, it COULD be that they would have to build the long block, as I don't see long blocks offered as an option on the Toyota Parts website. Looking up the VIN for your daughter's vehicle, this is the page you get for the engine:


In addition to the "Short Block Assembly", you have the "Partial Engine Assembly". Looking at this option, it appears to be a pretty complete engine assembly...in fact, when you click the link it takes to to "Engine Complete", Looking at the image, it's likely a wee bit more than just a "long block". Part Number is 1900031K81, with supersessions 19000-31K81 and 1900031K80. However, it shows "THIS PRODUCT IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE", which implies it's at least a custom order. No price is shown because of this.


So, essentially they would have to actually order the parts and BUILD a long block assembly. Which really isn't that much more than the the short block. Everything else would transfer during the replacement.
 
Short block replacement. *sigh*

I'm thinking the only way a short block saves time and money over a long block for the people doing the work is if they don't do ANYTHING with the heads, cams, etc. No magnafluxing, nothing to verify they're satisfactory for use. By the time you put in all the labor to remove them, magnaflux them, lap them, and whatever, you rapidly add up more money than it would to do a long block.

That short block assembly MSRP runs $3,897.67 on the Toyota Parts website.


Now, it COULD be that they would have to build the long block, as I don't see long blocks offered as an option on the Toyota Parts website. Looking up the VIN for your daughter's vehicle, this is the page you get for the engine:


In addition to the "Short Block Assembly", you have the "Partial Engine Assembly". Looking at this option, it appears to be a pretty complete engine assembly...in fact, when you click the link it takes to to "Engine Complete", Looking at the image, it's likely a wee bit more than just a "long block". Part Number is 1900031K81, with supersessions 19000-31K81 and 1900031K80. However, it shows "THIS PRODUCT IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE", which implies it's at least a custom order. No price is shown because of this.


So, essentially they would have to actually order the parts and BUILD a long block assembly. Which really isn't that much more than the the short block. Everything else would transfer during the replacement.

I got to thinking about asking them to test the heads, which I’m sure they didn’t do, but they got the parts in and did the work days earlier than they had told me; they had it together before I could say anything. If one or both is bad I’m sure we’ll have a problem sometime in the next 60k miles. I hate not being able to rely on it, but the whole system is designed to prevent the customer from inserting a third party consultant that can translate what’s really going on. Yes, I could have forced the issue somehow, but who has time.

I think my best move now is to send a letter to some regional toyota guy explaining what happened just to make sure that if there are problems in the future that it is documented. No idea ho that guy is.
 
Short block replacement. *sigh*

I'm thinking the only way a short block saves time and money over a long block for the people doing the work is if they don't do ANYTHING with the heads, cams, etc. No magnafluxing, nothing to verify they're satisfactory for use. By the time you put in all the labor to remove them, magnaflux them, lap them, and whatever, you rapidly add up more money than it would to do a long block.

That short block assembly MSRP runs $3,897.67 on the Toyota Parts website.


Now, it COULD be that they would have to build the long block, as I don't see long blocks offered as an option on the Toyota Parts website. Looking up the VIN for your daughter's vehicle, this is the page you get for the engine:


In addition to the "Short Block Assembly", you have the "Partial Engine Assembly". Looking at this option, it appears to be a pretty complete engine assembly...in fact, when you click the link it takes to to "Engine Complete", Looking at the image, it's likely a wee bit more than just a "long block". Part Number is 1900031K81, with supersessions 19000-31K81 and 1900031K80. However, it shows "THIS PRODUCT IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE", which implies it's at least a custom order. No price is shown because of this.


So, essentially they would have to actually order the parts and BUILD a long block assembly. Which really isn't that much more than the the short block. Everything else would transfer during the replacement.
Warranty available items to the dealers may be different than what joe public can go in a buy. Warranty repair work is done in a different fashion to some extent than”customer pay” jobs.

And through out all of this, never is there statements on paper (repair order to the tech or receipt to customer), the fact that the engine ran without oil. So in a “warranty” issue, just what is proven to “cause” the “customers concerns” is what is replaced. A ”misfire” doesnt warrant cylinder heads to be checked for cracks or warping . That is why you see the stated repairs.

They used this situation as a cash cow
 
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They used this situation asa cash cows
Agree 100%, and I’m over wanting to out them to corporate (whatever that means) to punish them, I really don’t care about their ethics, but I want my butt covered if we have problems down the road. Not sure who to contact, but there is a corporate customer service phone number on the feedback survey that they sent, maybe I’ll just call and ask.
 
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