I have an Echo 225 string trimmer and what to convert it to use a blade for heavy weeds. Don't need the set-up echo sells / just the part or parts to mount a blade. Anyone used an aftermarket kit to do it and where did you get it?
Saw Blade Conversion for String Trimmer
- Thread starter Roanoke
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Here's a 20mm arbor conversion kit, I've no clue if 20mm saw blades are available. My RedMax has a 1" arbor & I have to order 10" 80T blades on line.
https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/A...ssories/Conversion-Kits/Blade-Conversion-Kits
https://www.echo-usa.com/Products/A...ssories/Conversion-Kits/Blade-Conversion-Kits
As far as blades I have tried a few. I bought one of those with three plastic blades and it broke soon after. I then tried a solid steel blade with many small teeth and it was better but vibrated and got hung up in saplings. I finally bought a Forester brand blade and it is great. It's basically a circular blade with a chainsaw edge. It does extremely well on 1/4" weeds, saplings and will cut down a 2-3" tree in seconds. Sharpens same as a chainsaw.
As far as mounting...the pieces needed were offered with the blade or without.
As far as mounting...the pieces needed were offered with the blade or without.
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Ya'll watch and heed the max RPM's listed for blades, blows apart and you've got misery on your hands...
I used one & it was great for a shortish while. I had a stamped steel blade (no chainsaw teeth or carbide teeth), kinda like a plywood blade for a skilsaw. It dulls easily, and did as @NCGUY said, got hung up on saplings. I found that a firm but not too fast swing cut through 2"-3" stems better than trying to slowly saw through them. It took some getting used to, but it did work on things a string wouldn't touch.
Sorry, no help on getting parts, just my experience using one.
Sorry, no help on getting parts, just my experience using one.
This is style We use going around fences and works well and stays sharpe a long time if you keep it out of dirt but can be resharpened pretty easy with chainsaw file. One i have has been tortured hitting high tensile wire on accident and cutting stuff up to 5-6” just because chain saw was not near by. To mount on my stihl it just needed a bolt and a spacer and washer but a ace/stihl dealer usually has all the pieces.
https://m.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/trimmer-heads-and-blades/circularchisel/
https://m.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/trimmer-heads-and-blades/circularchisel/
I use one of these on my Stihl. Well worth the price
https://www.amazon.com/Attachment-M...t=&hvlocphy=9009953&hvtargid=pla-772359655824
https://www.amazon.com/Attachment-M...t=&hvlocphy=9009953&hvtargid=pla-772359655824
I have one of these and it works decent on cutting grass, only, but doesn't do squat on woody weeds or saplings. I bought the Forrester blades with the chainsaw teeth and they work great. I bought 2 and change them out regularly. These will "accidentally" take out 2" samplings if you aren't careful. I'm taking it to the mountains tomorrow to clear a path to run under ground power to my newly installed service pole.
https://www.amazon.com/Forester-Cha...+blade&qid=1601038640&s=amazon-devices&sr=1-1
this is what I run on mine. Good blade
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If you must mount mount a blade on a srm-225, I would use the oem Echo blade conversion kit. Its only 50 bucks...
I have seen people that have had blades come off with aftermarket parts that have been cobbled together.
I have seen people that have had blades come off with aftermarket parts that have been cobbled together.
I have the echo kit for mine and really like it. The blade has chipped from bouncing on metal fence posts but still cuts fine. I mostly use it in places I can’t get my Bush hog and under fence rows where string can’t get the job done.
I have experimented with every blade type available, and this summer took out a tremendous amount of overgrown grassy weeds, thick briers, and small saplings. Without a doubt the one above is what I would recommend.
Here is my take on each blade type:
- Forester or other chainsaw type: Works for thick saplings, but not better than a chainsaw or pole saw. Way too slow for briers or anything that you would use a brush cutter to "sling" into. Also, not ideal for cutting near dirt or rock that will chip the chainsaw teeth.
- Scratcher type blade: Works great for thick grass ONLY. I found that it hangs on anything thicker than grass or light briers. Also, it can't be sharpened if you dull it on woody brush or small saplings.
- Circ Saw blade or chisel blade: Faster than the forester, due to the thinner kerf. I found this too slow for grass or briers. Benefit over the scratcher is that it can be sharpened with a round file with little risk of chipping the brittle forester teeth.
- 4 blade "brush blade": My second favorite brush blade for everything grass to sapplings and in between. There is an edge on both sides, so it can be turned over if it gets too dull. I use this by swinging aggressively into the brush, acting more like a bush hog. It surprised me at the diameter of brush that this would cut. I have cut up to 1" saplings in one swing. The only downside is that it is slow to cut thick grass or briers compared to a 3 blade (see below).
- 3 blade brush knife: By far my favorite choice when I have to go between thick grass, briers and saplings. Since there is more area between each knife it tended to cut faster than the multitooth saw blade types. This is especially true with briers or cutting fence lines. Both sides can be sharpened so it can be turned over easily. I found that anything that is too thick to cut with this, should be cut by a chainsaw in the first place.
