Everywhere is out, Forsters websi
Check eBay. Bought mine there from a dealer in SC for $325 shipped.
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Everywhere is out, Forsters websi
Check eBay. Bought mine there from a dealer in SC for $325 shipped.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
$289/set....OUCH!!I will explain what I know with my die set... Redding Competition. It comes with 3 dies....Body, Neck Bushing, and a Seater die.
Body Sizing die - This sizes everything on the case except for the neck. This is needed when the shoulder needs to be pushed back. With light loads from a bolt rifle you may not use this die very often. With a semi auto, you will probably use this every time. When its tough to fully chamber the round (close the bolt) its probably time to for a Full Length or Body Die. (Given the fact you know your rounds aren't too long and the rifle is fairly clean.)
Neck Sizing Die - Sizes the neck only......this is where the bushings come into play. Bushing are inserted to size neck to desired diameter.....thus setting neck tension. With a bolt action rifle this is all that may be needed for a few firings. This helps your brass last longer by not using a body or full length sizing die (these dies work the brass harder). Many people also feel that neck sizing may make your ammo more consistent since it has been fire formed to your chamber.
Seating Die - I think you got this.
good call! I never think of ebay anymore.Check eBay. Bought mine there from a dealer in SC for $325 shipped.
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$289/set....OUCH!!
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Agreed, so start with new brass.Neck sizing applies to bolt guns. When fired the brass forms to the chamber and now is a match to that gun. You can neck size only for a few loadings before the shoulder starts to stretch enough to where it doesn't chamber as well or at all. Then you would full length size or use a body die to bump the shoulder back enough so that it chambers nicely again.
At least that's how I understand it.
So I don't understand the difference between these other than the micrometers
So I don't understand the difference between these other than the micrometers
Type S
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/780570/redding-type-s-bushing-3-die-neck-sizer-set
Type S Match
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/585548/redding-type-s-match-bushing-3-die-neck-sizer-set
Competition
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/930915/redding-competition-bushing-3-die-neck-sizer-set
Mics are the only difderence, and its not a big deal. This is especially true if the dies are for one rifle. The only thing that will change is the seating die.......if you shoot different bullets.
Here's the best I could find:Trying to figure out the Redding die nomenclature for rifle calibers gives me a headache. Is there a primer somewhere?
It would help for the load development process. I gioglgo some more and you can buy just the mic for $42-$44 so why is it a $100 jump from the type s to the match?
Neck sizing applies to bolt guns. When fired the brass forms to the chamber and now is a match to that gun. You can neck size only for a few loadings before the shoulder starts to stretch enough to where it doesn't chamber as well or at all. Then you would full length size or use a body die to bump the shoulder back enough so that it chambers nicely again.
At least that's how I understand it.
So how do the LNL and RC handle spent primers? That is one thing I like about my lee turret. Having them pop through the shaft into a tube is nice.
I like the Forster Micrometer Ultimate seating dies much better than the Redding Micrometer seating die.
Git it!
EDIT: Just make sure it comes with the large/small priming mechanisms and the spent primer chute and bottle!
EDITED: for clarity
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Agreed, so start with new brass.
First firing the case was fully sized to standard.
Second round is formed to chamber and only neck sized, probably a couple thou longer.
Third firing is another couple thou longer, but the bolt closes and ejection is easy so just neck size.
Fourth firing ejection is difficult, so full length size.
Note the lack of consistency. Wouldn’t it be better to just bump the shoulder back a couple thou after the third firing and for each subsequent firing? The cartridge is fit to your chamber in terms of length and is exactly the same diameter and length for every shot after the third.
Again, I don’t know, just asking the dumb question.
This guy has his opinions:
Erik is a friend of mine, he shoots for the US rifle team and builds his own rifles. I perk up when he talks. He holds or use to at least several records.Obviously I like what he’s saying, but is he right? Anyone have an opinion?
He's exactly right about headspace being essential to accuracy in a rifle.
Easiest way to accurately measure headspace and shoulder bump-a-tude is with the RCBS Precision Mic. I have one in .308 and .223 and it lets me accurately measure my chamber headspace in different guns.
I don't mess with all that neck sizing/bushing/turning - last I heard, most people shoot factory ammo and usually quite well. The hand loads I make on a bad day are better than 90% of the factory crap out there.
I have plenty other ways to waste/use my time in the gun room - casting bullets and fondling molds and getting them sized to the chamber correctly.
And I too have a Lee turret press, but I learned how to easily dial out the slop / turret movement - have a dedicated turret to each cartridge you reload and set them up accordingly. That's what they're for.
As far as a single stage press, sure I'll eventually end up with something better but I do rifle reloading, depriming, priming, trimming, a ton of stuff really - on my $40 Lee C reloader with breechlock bushings.
Like the Forster, it has unfettered access to the round you're reloading and I find it works well enough for my needs. I still reload .223 and .300blk on the turret press in indexing mode.
you just dial it out when you're setting up individual dies. Its not a problem really. Setup, measure, do a few dummy rounds and you're gtgHow did you minimize the up/down slop? I was thinking of selling it but wouldn't be opposed to keeping it to load 300blk subs
If you download their manual, it does a pretty good job on explaining each set, type, and so on.Trying to figure out the Redding die nomenclature for rifle calibers gives me a headache. Is there a primer somewhere?